My 1997 SR5 build and repair thread

I finally got time to bleed the rear brakes. Just a gravity bleed for now, but got plenty of air bubbles out of each wheel cylinder. Brakes feel even better now.

It appears the PO put new calipers and wheel cylinders on it but kept the old cracked front hoses. I need to look at the rear brake hose some time.


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Recently I’ve been seeing my Brake Warning Light coming on. I’m like WTF?

My MC level is at the low mark. So I look for leaks thinking a rear wheel cylinder is suspect and it ended up being a leak at the passenger upper brake hose connection.

I swear I made it tight, but I got a bunch of wrench turns on it before it was tight. There is no evidence of any air getting into the system and my pedal now feels like a rock.

Oops!!!!


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Recently I’ve been seeing my Brake Warning Light coming on. I’m like WTF?

My MC level is at the low mark. So I look for leaks thinking a rear wheel cylinder is suspect and it ended up being a leak at the passenger upper brake hose connection.

I swear I made it tight, but I got a bunch of wrench turns on it before it was tight. There is no evidence of any air getting into the system and my pedal now feels like a rock.

Oops!!!!


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You found it. That's all that matters. As we all boo boo from time to time. :)

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This oil change I added Ceritec to the oil since I now have 10,000 miles on the new engine. At the same time I also drilled two 2” holes into the air box air filter cover to get warmer air into the engine to help atomize the fuel.

Before I was getting low to mid 18’s for mpg. The last 4 tanks I’ve been getting mid to upper 19’s for mpg. Was it the Ceritec or was it the warmer air. It’s still winter with morning drives to work in the low 20’s to upper 30’s and the drive home has been the mid 30’s to the 40’s.

I was worried about my 8psi of oil pressure at idle with hot oil. It makes me happy that I have the highest oil pressure of anyone that responded to my question on oil pressure at idle with hot oil.

Gene


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My steering over the last few days has started to wander. Looking at the lower control arms while moving the steering wheel the drivers side arm moves visibly.

It’s time for lower control arm bushings.


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My steering over the last few days has started to wander. Looking at the lower control arms while moving the steering wheel the drivers side arm moves visibly.

It’s time for lower control arm bushings.


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How many miles on your bushings?
 
I couldn’t get the pivot bolts loose so I made an appointment with the guy I trust. Tuesday it will be done. I hope.......

I also hope John doesn’t get mad at me for having him do this.


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So it took them a day and a half and I picked it up this afternoon. They sent it across the street to get an alignment before I picked it up.

So it was:

990 in labor
240 on OEM Toyota parts
69 for the wheel alignment.

Steve (owner) told me everyone is now deaf from hearing the impact all day Tuesday.

I’m glad I didn’t have to deal with it. It would have taken me much longer laying on my back on a creeper, and I would have only been able to start working on it today again with my off stretch starting again.

So that’s what I did with my stimulus check.


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Well with 280,700 miles, this axle seal leak is expected. But I did clean the vent, if the leak comes back it’s seal time.


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Well, I pulled the drivers side read drum and still have a gear oil leak. So, I guess it’s time to do seals. It’s got 281,000 miles on the seals

I do want to get a new fill plug for the axle I’m at it. I pulled the fill plug hoping the previous owner overfilled the rear because that’s another cause for a leak. Sadly, the oil level is around 1/4” below the fill plug.


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Bummer, but that job isn't too bad. Are you going to extend the rear diff breather?


I should while I have it apart. However, it’s my snow machine so at the time it’s not that important. The vent is working properly. However, once every 3 to 5 years I must go to work during flooding conditions and that would help.

I’m getting ready to retire my 94 Cumins which was my snow and flooding machine since 96. I have Cooper studded snow tires on all four corners for the winter and Cooper 33x13.5x16.5 discoveries for the rest of the year. Rust has taken its toll on her and the studded tires are shot.


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My local trans shop I’m friends with wants 400 to 500 to do one axle. They are estimating 4-5 hours labor plus parts.

So, I watched Tim’s video and decided I’m doing it myself. I already ordered the bearing remover tool from the guy he linked on eBay.

I’ve been itching to buy a press for the last 15 years. Now it’s time. I have plenty of room for it in my chicken house.


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Thats a good reason to buy a press if I've ever heard one. If I remember I paid ~200 for both sides. That quote is pretty high.
 
Thats a good reason to buy a press if I've ever heard one. If I remember I paid ~200 for both sides. That quote is pretty high.


Sadly his shop labor is 100 per hour and he charges book time. Not shop time. So if book time is 5 hours and his mech does it in 2 he pockets the extra 3 hours and only pays the mech his hourly wage.

Edit: I should clarify one side or both for that price.


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