I installed a backup camera last week in my 2005 Runner SR5. I installed a JVC head unit a few years ago, then added the Alpine PDX5 and replacement speakers. The backup camera was the next auto sound project. I am not a professional installer, I just take my time and use the right tools, materials, and common sense. We all can install a backup camera. In my opinion all SUV's should have them and I believe they're being required on all new SUV's a few years from now.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
I started by connecting a single 10' RCA video cable to the Reverse Camera input on my HU and running it along the passenger side of the 4Runner to the back behind the right rear panel. (I don't have the sub woofer in this panel, just storage) I also ran a wire from the Reverse sensing cable of the HU under the steering column and into the driver side kick plate area. I would connect these later.
I bought the camera on eBay for about $20. Because it was so cheap I got two in case one dies out after 6 months. There were lots of choices, but I preferred one that didn't require me drilling a hole through my 4Runner for the wires and mounting. This one was nice because it replaces one of your license plate lights and includes built in LED lights so you stay legal. Another good reason to buy two is that the LEDs are not replaceable. The entire unit is sealed tight.
First I gained access to the back tail gate's guts by removing the back panel and peeling away the vapor barrier.
I chose to replace the left side license plate light because it would give me a bit shorter runs for my wires. It's easier at this point to remove the molding that houses the lights, the license plate, and license plate frame.
There are a few bolts you have to remove to pop off that molding above the license plate.
At least two of the bolts you have to remove the little plugs to get to them.
These are a few more bolts. Two actually hold in the key lock cylinder.
I removed the left side license plate light and cut the two wires leads that went to it. I screwed in my new camera unit. It fits great. Not exactly what I would call a perfect fit, but needed no mods. It screwed in on a slight angle which was ok. Once tightened down it was nice and snug, not flush, but snug.
I routed my video and light wires down the inside of the molding, following the same path as the original wires. I wire tied them to the existing wires to make sure nothing was going to get in the way when I put it all back together. I also did not make any electrical connection here. I ran all the wires inside. It would have been easier if I connected to light wires here, but I had to remember that this is still the outside of the 4Runner. I rather have my connections inside away from the weather. All wires were soldered and heat shrunk. I don't want any short later.
This rubber grommet had to be pulled out. I spliced into the wires for the light here. There wasn't much room or wire exposed. It's easier to just cut all of the tape away from these wires. I also cut into the grommet to make a channel for my light and camera wires to come through. Then crazy glues it back up and popped the grommet back in. Be careful, I had to repair a wire I pulled too hard back here.
I dropped down this panel at the far left of the tailgate. There was no need to unplug anything, you just need to be able to see behind it.
Wiring on the inside jam of the tail gate, I popped out the grommets for the rubber tunnel that houses the wires leading to the gate on the left side. Using electrician's fish tape I ran it through the tail gate down and just behind the panel I lowered (in yellow). I was able to then attach about a 8' section of 2/22 wire for the positive and negative of the camera and 9' thin RCA video wire. (better to have more wire than not enough) I taped the to the fish tape and pulled them back through the lower part of the gate and out of the grommet hole at the top of the lift gate. (Pull slow) I connected them to the camera and wire tied them away from any danger.
Now I fed the fish tape through the rubber tunnel and tapped it again to the power leads and video cable. I coated the taped wires in a little dish detergent to help them slip through the tunnel without getting stuck and coming off half way through. Now you can feed them down into the roof of the 4runner. You can gently pull the edge of the head liner down to expose the roof area where the wires need to go. I double checked that the lights worked and the camera signal as well. Heat shrunk all connections including the Video connection. This is good because things can start to rattle around back there after a few years. Then replaced the tunnel grommets and panel in the gate. I then replaced my vapor barrier and laid on a layer of ensolite foam and some dynamat extreme (just because I was there already). I buttoned everything up and moved back to the inside of the truck.
A tip on testing: The license plate light was easy. I just turned on the lights. However before I even began I tested it in the house by using the battery from my cordless drill. The + and - are marked on the DeWalt so it's easy. I also attached it to my camera's power leads and the camera's video connector to the RCA video on my TV. It is better testing for DOA in the house before you begin running wires and pull everything apart.
On the inside I removed the access panel to the left rear light assembly. I located the backup leads by disconnecting the connector and testing with a voltage tester as my son put it in reverse. I located the wires and spliced into them using splice connectors. Now the camera will only get power when in reverse. This should save hours on the camera.
:crybaby:(DON'T GET RUN OVER! I had the Emergency brake on and I sat inside the back as I tested).:crybaby:
I also ran the video cable from the roof under the headliner and down to the right side of the 4Runner. I followed the molding down to the floor and into the right rear panel in the back where I used a Female/Female RCA to connect to the the video cable coming from the front. I used heat shrink around both connection (about a 6" piece).
Up front remove the driver's side kick panel. Locate the Red/Yellow wire (Red with Yellow Stripe). Don't be fooled by the Red/Yellow that has silver bands. This is way to thin for a power lead. The one you want is a bit thicker, about 20ga.
Splice into the Red/Yellow wire with your reverse sensing wire from your HU. I ran my from behind the HU and down under the steering column. Wire tying it along the way. I used a 18 gauge remote turn on wire about 4' long and put black marks from a Sharpie about every 4 inches.
Once connected I tested my camera by putting the 4Runner in reverse. Woot! It works great.
As you can see the camera is on the left. The only problem (that I didn't prepare for) is that the markings that show left, right, and center are actually off center. I also had to use my dremel to notch out my chrome license plate frame to fit around the camera. If all goes well it should last. I do have another and honestly I love the style of this one. No drilling or cutting. I did order LED replacements for the right side because they look very yellow compared to the left now.
Here you can see the dotted red line is the center of the truck. Dead center of the hitch receiver. The arrow points to where the center line of the camera shows. There is no way to change these marks. So if you use this style camera. Keep this in mind. I've already started to ignore the lines. I do like the marks indicating the distance away. Despite that little snafu, I can back into a trailer hitch easily.:lookout:
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
I started by connecting a single 10' RCA video cable to the Reverse Camera input on my HU and running it along the passenger side of the 4Runner to the back behind the right rear panel. (I don't have the sub woofer in this panel, just storage) I also ran a wire from the Reverse sensing cable of the HU under the steering column and into the driver side kick plate area. I would connect these later.
I bought the camera on eBay for about $20. Because it was so cheap I got two in case one dies out after 6 months. There were lots of choices, but I preferred one that didn't require me drilling a hole through my 4Runner for the wires and mounting. This one was nice because it replaces one of your license plate lights and includes built in LED lights so you stay legal. Another good reason to buy two is that the LEDs are not replaceable. The entire unit is sealed tight.
First I gained access to the back tail gate's guts by removing the back panel and peeling away the vapor barrier.
I chose to replace the left side license plate light because it would give me a bit shorter runs for my wires. It's easier at this point to remove the molding that houses the lights, the license plate, and license plate frame.
There are a few bolts you have to remove to pop off that molding above the license plate.
At least two of the bolts you have to remove the little plugs to get to them.
These are a few more bolts. Two actually hold in the key lock cylinder.
I removed the left side license plate light and cut the two wires leads that went to it. I screwed in my new camera unit. It fits great. Not exactly what I would call a perfect fit, but needed no mods. It screwed in on a slight angle which was ok. Once tightened down it was nice and snug, not flush, but snug.
I routed my video and light wires down the inside of the molding, following the same path as the original wires. I wire tied them to the existing wires to make sure nothing was going to get in the way when I put it all back together. I also did not make any electrical connection here. I ran all the wires inside. It would have been easier if I connected to light wires here, but I had to remember that this is still the outside of the 4Runner. I rather have my connections inside away from the weather. All wires were soldered and heat shrunk. I don't want any short later.
This rubber grommet had to be pulled out. I spliced into the wires for the light here. There wasn't much room or wire exposed. It's easier to just cut all of the tape away from these wires. I also cut into the grommet to make a channel for my light and camera wires to come through. Then crazy glues it back up and popped the grommet back in. Be careful, I had to repair a wire I pulled too hard back here.
I dropped down this panel at the far left of the tailgate. There was no need to unplug anything, you just need to be able to see behind it.
Wiring on the inside jam of the tail gate, I popped out the grommets for the rubber tunnel that houses the wires leading to the gate on the left side. Using electrician's fish tape I ran it through the tail gate down and just behind the panel I lowered (in yellow). I was able to then attach about a 8' section of 2/22 wire for the positive and negative of the camera and 9' thin RCA video wire. (better to have more wire than not enough) I taped the to the fish tape and pulled them back through the lower part of the gate and out of the grommet hole at the top of the lift gate. (Pull slow) I connected them to the camera and wire tied them away from any danger.
Now I fed the fish tape through the rubber tunnel and tapped it again to the power leads and video cable. I coated the taped wires in a little dish detergent to help them slip through the tunnel without getting stuck and coming off half way through. Now you can feed them down into the roof of the 4runner. You can gently pull the edge of the head liner down to expose the roof area where the wires need to go. I double checked that the lights worked and the camera signal as well. Heat shrunk all connections including the Video connection. This is good because things can start to rattle around back there after a few years. Then replaced the tunnel grommets and panel in the gate. I then replaced my vapor barrier and laid on a layer of ensolite foam and some dynamat extreme (just because I was there already). I buttoned everything up and moved back to the inside of the truck.
A tip on testing: The license plate light was easy. I just turned on the lights. However before I even began I tested it in the house by using the battery from my cordless drill. The + and - are marked on the DeWalt so it's easy. I also attached it to my camera's power leads and the camera's video connector to the RCA video on my TV. It is better testing for DOA in the house before you begin running wires and pull everything apart.
On the inside I removed the access panel to the left rear light assembly. I located the backup leads by disconnecting the connector and testing with a voltage tester as my son put it in reverse. I located the wires and spliced into them using splice connectors. Now the camera will only get power when in reverse. This should save hours on the camera.
:crybaby:(DON'T GET RUN OVER! I had the Emergency brake on and I sat inside the back as I tested).:crybaby:
I also ran the video cable from the roof under the headliner and down to the right side of the 4Runner. I followed the molding down to the floor and into the right rear panel in the back where I used a Female/Female RCA to connect to the the video cable coming from the front. I used heat shrink around both connection (about a 6" piece).
Up front remove the driver's side kick panel. Locate the Red/Yellow wire (Red with Yellow Stripe). Don't be fooled by the Red/Yellow that has silver bands. This is way to thin for a power lead. The one you want is a bit thicker, about 20ga.
Splice into the Red/Yellow wire with your reverse sensing wire from your HU. I ran my from behind the HU and down under the steering column. Wire tying it along the way. I used a 18 gauge remote turn on wire about 4' long and put black marks from a Sharpie about every 4 inches.
Once connected I tested my camera by putting the 4Runner in reverse. Woot! It works great.
As you can see the camera is on the left. The only problem (that I didn't prepare for) is that the markings that show left, right, and center are actually off center. I also had to use my dremel to notch out my chrome license plate frame to fit around the camera. If all goes well it should last. I do have another and honestly I love the style of this one. No drilling or cutting. I did order LED replacements for the right side because they look very yellow compared to the left now.
Here you can see the dotted red line is the center of the truck. Dead center of the hitch receiver. The arrow points to where the center line of the camera shows. There is no way to change these marks. So if you use this style camera. Keep this in mind. I've already started to ignore the lines. I do like the marks indicating the distance away. Despite that little snafu, I can back into a trailer hitch easily.:lookout:
Last edited:
