My Bumper Red lense mod
- Thread starter HRunner
- Start date
jackz
New member
Tail Mod questions
Help here please....
If I'm planning to use the LED bulb, would I be better-off using a 1156 socket (single-prong) for the installation ??
I understand that when using the LED you have the choice of tailights only or stop/blinker only (depending on how you wire it)...
LED's don't have the dual element for both...Correct ??
Any opinion using the red vs white led ??
Website says red w/ red gives the brighter light.
Thanks in advance,
Jack
Help here please....
If I'm planning to use the LED bulb, would I be better-off using a 1156 socket (single-prong) for the installation ??
I understand that when using the LED you have the choice of tailights only or stop/blinker only (depending on how you wire it)...
LED's don't have the dual element for both...Correct ??
Any opinion using the red vs white led ??
Website says red w/ red gives the brighter light.
Thanks in advance,
Jack
AlexJet
New member
Re: Tail Mod questions
1. 1157 or 3157 LEDs are dual so they are good for tail/brake. LED will not work as tail/brake/turn due to low resistance in turn circuit.
2. Optical Physics saying that red light filter will allow only red light of spectrum pass. White bulb will produce all spectrums and only red part will pass. So if bulbs have same light output, Red will be better because all of its light will pass; White will be divided and only red part will pass. Conclusion => Red LED preferable.
jackz said:
1. 1157 or 3157 LEDs are dual so they are good for tail/brake. LED will not work as tail/brake/turn due to low resistance in turn circuit.
2. Optical Physics saying that red light filter will allow only red light of spectrum pass. White bulb will produce all spectrums and only red part will pass. So if bulbs have same light output, Red will be better because all of its light will pass; White will be divided and only red part will pass. Conclusion => Red LED preferable.
Double checked my mod today. The sockets still sit very tight with the housing.
And I did a little test, which I turned on the parking light and pressed the brake for couple mins. I just feel a bit warm on the lenses... the LEDs do generate less heat!
I still left my vent hole off, and seems not much dirt around the housing and vent... no need to worry much I guess
And I did a little test, which I turned on the parking light and pressed the brake for couple mins. I just feel a bit warm on the lenses... the LEDs do generate less heat!
I still left my vent hole off, and seems not much dirt around the housing and vent... no need to worry much I guess
sharp4runr
New member
I don't think heat is an issue with the brake lights. I use 1157 bulbs and I drive with my head lights on all the time. I have the bumper lights wired as brake/running lights so the bumper lights are always illuminated.
I haven't done any long distance trips, unless you include sitting in traffic for an hour to get to/from work
I haven't done any long distance trips, unless you include sitting in traffic for an hour to get to/from work
sharp4runr
New member
I doubt that 1157 bulb could generate so much heat to cause the housing to melt. I'd think the bulb would go bad before that happened.
Its less heat than my nieces Easy Bake oven
Its less heat than my nieces Easy Bake oven
iFORCE
New member
sharp4runr said:I doubt that 1157 bulb could generate so much heat to cause the housing to melt. I'd think the bulb would go bad before that happened.
Its less heat than my nieces Easy Bake oven
actually... it would generate enough heat to melt the plastic. If the bulb touches the plastic then over time it'll melt. Best to use LEDs and put an inline resistor.
Quoted from bryancos's thread
IMPORTANT NOTE REGARDING HEAT ISSUES!
I've found that filament type 1157 bulbs DO generate enough heat to melt the plastic in the extended "tube" of plastic" where the bulbs mount if run as tail lights. Recommend that you consider either using LED 1157 type bulbs, or dremel/saw off about 3/4" or more of the "tubular section" so that the bulb itself extends into the actual lamp housing when it's mounted and is not surrounded by the plastic.
Refer to http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1137&perpage=15&pagenumber=1
IMPORTANT NOTE REGARDING HEAT ISSUES!
I've found that filament type 1157 bulbs DO generate enough heat to melt the plastic in the extended "tube" of plastic" where the bulbs mount if run as tail lights. Recommend that you consider either using LED 1157 type bulbs, or dremel/saw off about 3/4" or more of the "tubular section" so that the bulb itself extends into the actual lamp housing when it's mounted and is not surrounded by the plastic.
Refer to http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1137&perpage=15&pagenumber=1
Techenigma
New member
Thought I'd update this with the actual wire colors and which pin they go to on the tail light connector.
Ok on the diagram earlier in the thread if the plug is oriented the same as in that diagram the yellow wire runs to the top left socket, the black is of course in the bottom right and the brown goes in the 2nd row 2nd column. This is assuming of course you bought a 1157 socket with three wires a black for ground, a brown live, and a yellow live. Hope this makes it easier for those attempting this mod.
Ok on the diagram earlier in the thread if the plug is oriented the same as in that diagram the yellow wire runs to the top left socket, the black is of course in the bottom right and the brown goes in the 2nd row 2nd column. This is assuming of course you bought a 1157 socket with three wires a black for ground, a brown live, and a yellow live. Hope this makes it easier for those attempting this mod.
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Techenigma
New member
HRunner... Can you perhaps elaborate on how you remove the wire pins in the tail light connector? you say you push up and then pull it out the back but I've been fiddling with the darn things for 40 minutes and cant get them to come out. Anyone done this mod and run it to the stock wire connector feel free to also chime in. thanks.
Techenigma said:
Techenigma, it's not easy to explain...
Basically, it has a clip for each pin inside of the plug. Use a tiny screwdriver to pull in, then up and down a bit while you pressing the screwdriver in. (Damn... it's very hard to explain...)
All you need to do, is to press the clip, then the wire could easy pull out from the back. Another simply way, is to jam the wire (or cut the wire) behind the plug.
It's not a "must" to remove the wire pins. This just looks better (in fact, no one can see it anyway).
Good luck!
00328
Senior Member
Techenigma - what I did (and I think it's in iForces thread) I took a male blade connector and cut it narrow with some tin snips or you could use a very sharp scissor. Once it's cut to the right width, you can just slip it into the back of the plug. Took me a couple tries, if you cut it too narrow it will not stay or make a good connection.
HRunner - don't mean to step on your thread, just giving a different way to connect the wires.
HRunner - don't mean to step on your thread, just giving a different way to connect the wires.
Techenigma
New member
00328 said:
Ahh Ok well I have a bunch of blade connectors on hand, and that would make this easily reversible. I didn't like the idea of messing with the original wiring, especially since its fairly short, and any mistakes and you'd have to redo a section of wire.... Ok guys thanks for the input. really appreciated!
