My High Idle CURED!!!

High idle after fuel pump change

Just recently changed my fuel filter and pump, unfortunately didn’t do it myself, I had to raise the white flag because I didn’t feel like laying in the snow In my driveway. When I got it back it idles really high, higher than normal... I will look at linkage issue. I was wondering what was going on...
 
Just recently changed my fuel filter and pump, unfortunately didn’t do it myself, I had to raise the white flag because I didn’t feel like laying in the snow In my driveway. When I got it back it idles really high, higher than normal... I will look at linkage issue. I was wondering what was going on...
How high is the idle?

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Last summer, in the heat, I adjusted the accelerator cable right at the edge of too tight. This winter, I paid the price. Once it got below 30°F, the idle would kick up to ~1100 RPM. Today I slacked off slightly, and it's back to a steady 650.

So it is better to do this job in the winter or leave a little slack if the weather is hot.
 
Well, Ive got an interesting problem. Got the linkage off. Installed the washer and began tightening the nut against the split ring washer. Went on enough that about 3 or 4 threads are showing past the nut. Won't go any tighter and won't come off. Didn't have much of a struggle getting it off.

In the event the bolt running through the linkage is toast, anyone know the part number or if it can be replaced. ugh. If i didn't have bad luck, i'd have no luck at all. dang it. :doh:

UPDATE: I got the nut back off. But be warned, the threads on these BOLTS are very fragile. As I stated, I didn't have much problem at all loosening the bolt. Got it on the first try w/ nothing but a 12mm spanner. The bolt's threads came right off with it. Can't buy just the linkage, and in my case (manual transmission w/ cruise control), a used part doesn't come cheap as best I can tell. $390 incl tax via earnhardt toyota (who seems to be far better priced on EVERYTHING vs Camelback these days). And just to emphasize, living in the desert, rust is non-existent on my truck (original owner). This wasn't an issue of rust.

UPDATE2: Had to replace the entire throttle body. No high idle issue. lol
 
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For some folks that might wonder in here with a slightly high idle:

I just did the valve cover gaskets. Got everything back in place, had a high (1200-1300) idle when in park, with ac off. Before the gasket job, this was usually in the 700-900 range.

After watching a bunch of videos brainstorming what it could be, and dreading having a bad IAC valve, I decided what the hell, I'll reset it. So I pulled the negative terminal on the battery, let it set for a few mins with the headlight switch on.

Turned the car back on after hooking the battery back up and it ran horrible at idle. Almost to the point of stalling. Then about 20 seconds after startup, I heard a click, and its now running exactly like it was before, perfectly.

I think the ecm had to relearn or reset the IAC valve or something. Not going to pretend to know why this worked, but it did.

Hope this solves at least one other guys problem, as it was making me sweat buying a new IAC.

Thanks
 
Hey guys I just joined the site here. I have lurked for a little while but I am having an issue. Im doing this washer mod and when I popped the linkage free from the throttle body the little throttle spring came unhooked from its keeper. I'm not sure how the one end hooks back up. I believe in the last photo that OP posted it shows that spring and it doesn't really look like it's hooked in any place it's just resting against that little arm on the linkage, sorry I don't know exactly what that part of the linkage is called. Anyway am I overthinking this or what? I don't know how to post pictures yet but I heard you can use something like Photobucket which I have never done but I can try to figure it out. My throttle body is already reinstalled on the truck and I just wanted to slip this little washer in to cure the high idle after cleaning throttle body and i a c. I know this is what needs to be done because I did pull forward on the linkage and the idle dropped down. I was pretty excited to do this but now a little bummed because I don't know how that spring is supposed to reattach. Any help/advice how to post a picture and what is going on with this spring would be much appreciated!
 
Oh and I'm sorry I forgot to mention. I have a 1997 3.4 l with the 5-speed manual. So just throttle cable and cruise control cable. The cruise control spring is the way it should be but the other spring for the throttle is hanging loose on the one end. If that makes any sense.
 
If you can mimic what is shown in that last picture then you should be good to go. At the very least, just try it in different spots and see how the TB closes (with the cables attached).
 
Yeah before I saw your reply I went ahead and gave it a go. Hooked the cables back up and had it the way I thought it should go started it up and it was wide open. RPMs instantly was climbing up to 5,000 or so so I shut it down. I took it back apart and took the washer out and put it back together again and it seemed like the linkage wasn't going in far enough. Like there's a gap where the washer would go where I'm pretty sure it's supposed to fit tight up against the throttle body. So I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong but I'll have to mess with it later because I have to get ready to go to work. Thank you for your reply and I'm not going to have time to mess with it over the next few days cuz I'm going to be out of town but if I can figure out how to post a picture or two when I get back I'll maybe see if any of you notice something.
 
Yeah guys I did find where to hook that spring back up. It was actually kind of a bugger and I had to slightly bend the end of it in order to get it hooked back up but it's where it belongs I'm sure of it. I have the thin fender washer installed. Tried starting it again and same thing. Wide open. Tried hitting the gas pedal and it didn't help. Even with the truck off the gas pedal is super stiff. Like can barely press it down at all. And the throttle body linkage barely moves...like the cable is stuck so I have no idea. I have a friend coming over Wednesday to take a look. He is pretty mechanical and has a 96' 2.7 taco. Hopefully he can figure it out but the dealer has a new throttle body on the way for me. This was all part of a valve cover job I did. That whole job went really well in the truck was running great but just had that slightly high idle do to me cleaning the throttle body. The issues started after I removed the linkage to do the washer mod. I am about to do the same job on my two thousand Taco 3.4 and I think I will skip cleaning the throttle body this time and just remove the i a c and clean it. Because this sucks. Anyway any more suggestions on what anyone thinks might be going on here I would really appreciate it
 
Oh and BTW, I did call George at Max bore. I explained to him what was going on and that I was doing this washer mod and removed the linkage from the throttle body. He told me he never removes that portion when he is working on a throttle body and that I might have compromised it now to where there is nothing he can do for me. And that is why I called the dealer and had them order me a throttle body which is on its way up here to Washington state from California. Bummer deal. It was not the washer mod that is the problem but something I did I'm sure. Again hopefully my buddy can figure out what I've got going on and I can keep this old throttle body going for a little while longer but if not it's not the end of the world. The truck has 370,000 miles on it lol
 
All three of my automatics have been 750 in park and neutral and 600 in gear with foot on the brake.


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