High_Country
New member
Well, I'm 95% done with my homemade roof rack and thought I'd post some pics. I appreciate the input I got from guys on this forum.
[/URL]~original[/IMG]
I did start another brainstorming thread and got some good info here:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-g...-roof-rack-constructive-criticism-please.html
(Note I abandoned the design that used angle and instead went with strap for the sides)
In that thread I noted the following premises of my design:
1) This is in no way intended to be as attractive or as functional as a Gobi, Baja, whatever...I recognize this.
2) My time is precious so something simple and straightforward to fabricate was sought after. Again, back to not spending the time making it as attractive as a Gobi or other home-builds I've seen
3) I am going to be using the factory roof rails (similar in concept to the Rocky Road Outfitters rack)
4) I wanted it to be low profile and subtle.
5) The rack will be used mainly for lighter duty items (tents, bags, antique coleman stove, maxx traxx, etc) but I'm hoping it is substantial enough for a potential RTT setup in the future. We'll see...
I used 3/16" x 3" steel for the side, 1-1/4" 11gauge square tubing for the crossbars, and 3/4" 9gauge expanded metal for the deck. I used the 'super strut' or unistrut channel nuts inside the factory roof rails. They fit snugly and were just the ticket.
I attached to the factory rails near each end to keep the load as close to the roof attachment point as possible and rely as little as possible on the rigidity and strength of the factory roof rails (an exercise in maximizing available moment capacity for all you structural engineers out there).
I have about 1-1/2" of clearance between the roof and the bottom of the crossbars in the center of the roof (tightest spot to the flat roof). If you measure down to the raised ribs, I have about 1" of clearance. I felt this was sufficient for ties, bolts, etc. Oh, and it clears the shark fin!
I'll let the pics speak to the rest of it. Note that I plan on adding a simple metal (20ga?) wind deflector or fairing to the front. This is not seen in the pictures. I also plan on getting it powder coated in a textured satin black.
The rack weighs 67lbs is extremely rigid - I (215lbs) walked all over it on the shop floor to try it out. I probably could have gotten by with 14ga crossbars which would have lightened it up considerably. Oh well...maybe next time.
Overall I'm happy. It's subtle. Low profile. Strong. And, the expanded metal offers near infinite tie down spots. I considered welding on brackets for lights or other things, but after some thought, I'm not putting lights on the rack anyways. If I have the itch later on, I'll modify it.
On with the pics:
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[URL=http://s1197.photobucket.com/user/jdougherty91/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsxi8gobrx.jpg.html]
Barely noticeable!
[IMG]http://i1197.photobucket.com/albums/aa421/jdougherty91/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsxi8gobrx.jpg[/URL]~original[/IMG]
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Shark fin tucked underneath
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Hatch open
[/URL]~original[/IMG]
Thought I'd share. Thanks for looking!
I did start another brainstorming thread and got some good info here:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-g...-roof-rack-constructive-criticism-please.html
(Note I abandoned the design that used angle and instead went with strap for the sides)
In that thread I noted the following premises of my design:
1) This is in no way intended to be as attractive or as functional as a Gobi, Baja, whatever...I recognize this.
2) My time is precious so something simple and straightforward to fabricate was sought after. Again, back to not spending the time making it as attractive as a Gobi or other home-builds I've seen
3) I am going to be using the factory roof rails (similar in concept to the Rocky Road Outfitters rack)
4) I wanted it to be low profile and subtle.
5) The rack will be used mainly for lighter duty items (tents, bags, antique coleman stove, maxx traxx, etc) but I'm hoping it is substantial enough for a potential RTT setup in the future. We'll see...
I used 3/16" x 3" steel for the side, 1-1/4" 11gauge square tubing for the crossbars, and 3/4" 9gauge expanded metal for the deck. I used the 'super strut' or unistrut channel nuts inside the factory roof rails. They fit snugly and were just the ticket.
I attached to the factory rails near each end to keep the load as close to the roof attachment point as possible and rely as little as possible on the rigidity and strength of the factory roof rails (an exercise in maximizing available moment capacity for all you structural engineers out there).
I have about 1-1/2" of clearance between the roof and the bottom of the crossbars in the center of the roof (tightest spot to the flat roof). If you measure down to the raised ribs, I have about 1" of clearance. I felt this was sufficient for ties, bolts, etc. Oh, and it clears the shark fin!
I'll let the pics speak to the rest of it. Note that I plan on adding a simple metal (20ga?) wind deflector or fairing to the front. This is not seen in the pictures. I also plan on getting it powder coated in a textured satin black.
The rack weighs 67lbs is extremely rigid - I (215lbs) walked all over it on the shop floor to try it out. I probably could have gotten by with 14ga crossbars which would have lightened it up considerably. Oh well...maybe next time.
Overall I'm happy. It's subtle. Low profile. Strong. And, the expanded metal offers near infinite tie down spots. I considered welding on brackets for lights or other things, but after some thought, I'm not putting lights on the rack anyways. If I have the itch later on, I'll modify it.
On with the pics:
[URL=http://s1197.photobucket.com/user/jdougherty91/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsxi8gobrx.jpg.html]
Barely noticeable!
[IMG]http://i1197.photobucket.com/albums/aa421/jdougherty91/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsxi8gobrx.jpg[/URL]~original[/IMG]
Shark fin tucked underneath
Hatch open
Thought I'd share. Thanks for looking!
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