My mod to get at the winch clutch. Clean and simple!

Zapper

Member
I've been meaning to do a little write-up on how I get to my winch clutch. I had been thinking about it for a while after installing my SSO bumper with Smittybilt X20 winch. Its not always the best practice to unspool the winch line with the motor. Remote clutch systems are crazy expensive. So here is a very clean way to access your clutch.
I had a short section of 1" black pipe laying around from a project. Only thing missing was the T connector which makes a nice handle.

1. Put the 20" pipe and T connector together.
2. Using an angle grinder I notched the pipe to fit the clutch handle. Keep the notch inline with the T connector.
3. Eyeballed the location in the upper radiator cover to drill out. I started with a step bit. Making a small hole and used a plumb bob to insure I was right over the center of the clutch lever. 1st shot was a winner!
4. I store my pipe in the back with the recovery gear. When needed, it just drops in over the clutch to engage and disengage the clutch. Very clean and simple.
 

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The Smittybilt X20 is wireless. I have a remote to operate the in and out function. I have the power running through a 500amp solenoid to a switch at my knee. Its only HOT when I activate the switch. Its a simple safe precautions.
 
The Smittybilt X20 is wireless. I have a remote to operate the in and out function. I have the power running through a 500amp solenoid to a switch at my knee. Its only HOT when I activate the switch. Its a simple safe precautions.

Copy, I went to town with poultry sheers and edge trim I had in stock to reach my ComeUp. Thanks for the clarification though!
 

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I took the top valance off and used a hole saw a little bigger than my fist. I then put the edge trim around the circle. Not at home for a day or I'd send a photo.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
The industrial look is in! I love it. Play your marketing cars right and I bet you could spin that into a group buy at $150 a whack.
 
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My dealer just cut a hole in the top that my arm will fit through. They put a hole on each side so I can also go wired if need be. Like a dead battery in the remote. Simple and no tool to use or look for. I am going to trim it out like greatape did.

Bill
 
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Copy, I went to town with poultry sheers and edge trim I had in stock to reach my ComeUp. Thanks for the clarification though!

Great idea. I already have the holes to access the winch. Never occurred to me to trim them out. Will be getting right on that.

Bill
 
I thought about something like that when I first purchased the bumper and winch. We had a similar set up on my old rescue squad with a rear mounted winch. Part of the problem with this application would be having that lever stick out the front.

Yeah, I still have not worked it all out yet. I would assume there would be some fitting required, as well as some camouflage. If I mount a couple of lights in that lower grille, it may not be noticeable. I'll cross that bridge when I get there...
 
I still LOVE this idea...

One time someone suggested wiring the winch into the steering wheel volume control. Would be trick as hell...

But they might have been kidding... :p

NZDZRT
 
This is why I went with the C4 winch bumper - it provides 2 port holes your hand can fit through to flip the clutch. That & the fact it lines up perfectly w/ the factory skid plate...
 

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So here is a very clean way to access your clutch.
I had a short section of 1" black pipe laying around from a project. Only thing missing was the T connector which makes a nice handle.

Just wondering, do you think 3/4 or 1" PVC piping be strong enough to engage/disengage the clutch. If so, that might be a good alternative for someone trying to replicate this tool.
 
Just wondering, do you think 3/4 or 1" PVC piping be strong enough to engage/disengage the clutch. If so, that might be a good alternative for someone trying to replicate this tool.

I think I would stick with black pipe. PVC schedule 40 maybe....but I would stick with something known and you won't break the black pipe. Its a 1 beer project.
 
Could you go into more detail about how you accomplished this and what parts you used? I am trying to do the same, but in the overhead and use that unused round button area. I would prefer to keep the winch off unless it is needed. I had thought about a toggle that flashes red when in use, kind of a hey dummy, this is on!

Sorry I didn't see this earlier. I wouldn't worry about a light that lets you know its in use. I just did not want it to be hot all the time, that is why ran it through a solenoid. Now solenoids can fail, so a jumper wire to complete the connection at the top of the solenoid will correct the issue if it fails. So, I have a solenoid that interrupts the the Positive side of the circuit. A low voltage switch trips the solenoid on and off. This is the switch that is run to the inside of the cab. Thats it...simple. If you would like some pictures of how its wired I could upload those for you. Also, don't forget to excersize your winch from time to time. Pull some cable/rope out and run it back in. When your on the trail and need it, that is not the time to learn how to use it.
 
I have to lift my clutch handle to engage/disengage (Superwinch Talon), I just cut the top valence by the hood release, similar to [MENTION=139970]greatape[/MENTION], except I used a Dremel instead of sheep shears :madgrin:

I mean you drilled a hole in the thing why not just trim the plastic? (the part "sight shield" is less than $100 if you want to replace it) My lack of patience, I would forget the pipe was in there and close the hood on it (hood $366 + paint). I suppose having a pipe and fitting is always a nice thing to have if the cows/sheep/wildlife start to riot :biggrin1:
 

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