My trans temps and 70264 to 4589 swap

[4racer]

So I have a 97 4runner Limited. I did copious amounts of research and decided to take a chance and bypass my cooler with a B&M 70264. I ran it this way for almost a year. Swapped my fluid out for Redline D4 and thought all was well.

Then I decided that I actually wanted to see my trans temps, so I picked up an AEM Analog Trans Temp gauge. I don't know how accurate they are, but for the sake of argument, lets say they are relatively close to the scangauge everyone uses.

I don't live anywhere crazy. Southern Ca. Temps range from 40-110F. Since I have had my gauge in. On my 5 mile drive to work in 80-90 degree weather, the gauge will register 120-140 locked up and 160-170 when unlocked. This is going down hill most of the way.

Where it gets interesting is my drive home. It is all up hill, mild grade, the TC never gets a chance to lock up as it is constant acceleration from one light to the next. I will easily hit 180F by the time I get almost to my house. The last bit of the stretch is a 1/2 mile hill that is somewhat steeper. For the last 3 days consistently I hit 200F by the time I reach the top and get home. I mainly figure this is because my TC never gets a chance to lock up.

So I have decided for research and curiosity to swap the 70264 out for a Tru-Cool 4589. It is 2.5 inches longer and BTU registers at 21000 vs the 70264 at 14,400. What this means, I have no idea. But it will be interesting to find out. I am not claiming to be an expert in anyway or claim I know anything about BTU or GVW. Simply doing this as an exercise to see what the results, if any, are. Should have another update on Sunday when the 4589 gets here.

 

[Mgyver1]

So I have a 97 4runner Limited. I did copious amounts of research and decided to take a chance and bypass my cooler with a B&M 70264. I ran it this way for almost a year. Swapped my fluid out for Redline D4 and thought all was well.

Then I decided that I actually wanted to see my trans temps, so I picked up an AEM Analog Trans Temp gauge. I don't know how accurate they are, but for the sake of argument, lets say they are relatively close to the scangauge everyone uses.

I don't live anywhere crazy. Southern Ca. Temps range from 40-110F. Since I have had my gauge in. On my 5 mile drive to work in 80-90 degree weather, the gauge will register 120-140 locked up and 160-170 when unlocked. This is going down hill most of the way.

Where it gets interesting is my drive home. It is all up hill, mild grade, the TC never gets a chance to lock up as it is constant acceleration from one light to the next. I will easily hit 180F by the time I get almost to my house. The last bit of the stretch is a 1/2 mile hill that is somewhat steeper. For the last 3 days consistently I hit 200F by the time I reach the top and get home. I mainly figure this is because my TC never gets a chance to lock up.

So I have decided for research and curiosity to swap the 70264 out for a Tru-Cool 4589. It is 2.5 inches longer and BTU registers at 21000 vs the 70264 at 14,400. What this means, I have no idea. But it will be interesting to find out. I am not claiming to be an expert in anyway or claim I know anything about BTU or GVW. Simply doing this as an exercise to see what the results, if any, are. Should have another update on Sunday when the 4589 gets here.

I'm curious to know the difference too. I run a 4589 and ran one in my Tacoma too and it's been 115 this last week. :flame:

 

[LittleCaesar]

Keep us posted with the results.

My friend had one on his K1500, usually making his tranny temps 20 to 30 degrees cooler than with the stock external ATF cooler. He was running it in series with the radiator ATF exchanger.

 

[2KT4R]

I run a B&M 70274, its got a 29,200 BTU rating. I really gotta push her to get over 200F..... and thats loaded down too. Generally see temps under the mid 100F.

 

[4racer]

I run a B&M 70274, its got a 29,200 BTU rating. I really gotta push her to get over 200F..... and thats loaded down too. Generally see temps under the mid 100F.

How'd you fit that in there? Any pics?

 

[2KT4R]

Couple pics there with the cooler and the temp gauge i set up.

 

[StreetCreeper]

So I have a 97 4runner Limited. I did copious amounts of research and decided to take a chance and bypass my cooler with a B&M 70264. I ran it this way for almost a year. Swapped my fluid out for Redline D4 and thought all was well.

Then I decided that I actually wanted to see my trans temps, so I picked up an AEM Analog Trans Temp gauge. I don't know how accurate they are, but for the sake of argument, lets say they are relatively close to the scangauge everyone uses.

I don't live anywhere crazy. Southern Ca. Temps range from 40-110F. Since I have had my gauge in. On my 5 mile drive to work in 80-90 degree weather, the gauge will register 120-140 locked up and 160-170 when unlocked. This is going down hill most of the way.

Where it gets interesting is my drive home. It is all up hill, mild grade, the TC never gets a chance to lock up as it is constant acceleration from one light to the next. I will easily hit 180F by the time I get almost to my house. The last bit of the stretch is a 1/2 mile hill that is somewhat steeper. For the last 3 days consistently I hit 200F by the time I reach the top and get home. I mainly figure this is because my TC never gets a chance to lock up.

So I have decided for research and curiosity to swap the 70264 out for a Tru-Cool 4589. It is 2.5 inches longer and BTU registers at 21000 vs the 70264 at 14,400. What this means, I have no idea. But it will be interesting to find out. I am not claiming to be an expert in anyway or claim I know anything about BTU or GVW. Simply doing this as an exercise to see what the results, if any, are. Should have another update on Sunday when the 4589 gets here.

Something I've been curious about is if an external ATF cooler will effect the a/c vent temps. In theory you are pulling all that ATF heat across the A/C condensor.

Perhaps if not too late, you could grab a kitchen thermometer and note the conditions and a/c temp before and after the ATF cooler install?

If unable, I'll be installing my ATF cooler soon and will check.

 

[4racer]

Yup I will start to measure AC temps while stopped and running to give you an idea of any temp differences in the vents.

 

[Roc Doc]

Yes your temps are going to rise if the TC doesn't lock up, but the other part of the equation is airflow and if you're sitting at a stop light you're not going to have much air flowing through the cooler. Yes the bigger cooler will help, but if it was me, I'd have gone with the B&M 70297. It's got a fan mounted to it, and a thermostat to control the fan and fluid flow.

That's what I'm going to do anyway.

 

[ralatkins]

i run a hayden 678 along with my inline factory cooler in a new denso radiator with an autometer gauge (no scangauge for my 97) and just yesterday pulling a trailer (approx. 1500 lbs) at 75 mph on the highway with 285 tires, my temp stayed at around 170 to 180 in 90 degree heat. it would momentarily top 200 degrees when pulling away from stop sign after 2 plus hours on the highway. that's with OD off and ect on. only complaint is shitty gas mileage.

 

[2KT4R]

Realistically, unless you live in a much hotter area geographically, any kind of external cooler size will suffice far better than the stock (roughly) 1"x16" section of the rad that the trans oil runs through. next to no chance to cool much there, and the truck still prevails. Not to mention the few seconds your stopped at a light arent gonna bring the temp down more than a degree at most with a fan over it. Key is, more surface area, straight heat dissipation.

 

[mtbtim]

The real test is when you're pushing your rig whether it's towing, carrying a bunch of gear and driving up long steep mountain roads, or possibly 4-wheeling up steep trails where your speed will be slow and you'll have little air flow through the front grill.

Some with bypassed systems and driving under scenarios like above have seen temps 250 and above. From my research, you should start carefully monitoring your trans temp when you get around 230. Temps above 230 will really start affecting the life of your fluid. Supposedly if you've hit 250, your fluid will only last around 10,000 miles.

You might want to research installing a pusher fan on the front of your cooler like others have done with bypassed systems to address the higher temps.

 

[Mgyver1]

Keep us posted with the results.

My friend had one on his K1500, usually making his tranny temps 20 to 30 degrees cooler than with the stock external ATF cooler. He was running it in series with the radiator ATF exchanger.

I have a '08 Tahoe that I put a 4588 (5-3/4 x 11 x 1.5). Before my temps would hit 215 AT IDLE in the summer. Now that I have that inline with the radiator I have to push it to get above 190.

 

[4racer]

I'm mainly doing this to see what if any increase in BTU size gives me. Sitting at a stop light I can watch my temps drop. I believe I have some air flow over my cooler at a full stop, might be minimal but it's there. I mounted mine with metal straps but it's < 1/4 from the condenser. I have a 7 hour trip to Utah that will include some low speed wheels which will also put this to the test.

If this doesn't yield the results I'm looking for then I will mount a fan to the 4589. I personally now think more heat disapation is needed when removing the stock cooler.

 

[Roc Doc]

I'm mainly doing this to see what if any increase in BTU size gives me. Sitting at a stop light I can watch my temps drop. I believe I have some air flow over my cooler at a full stop, might be minimal but it's there. I mounted mine with metal straps but it's < 1/4 from the condenser. I have a 7 hour trip to Utah that will include some low speed wheels which will also put this to the test.

If this doesn't yield the results I'm looking for then I will mount a fan to the 4589. I personally now think more heat disapation is needed when removing the stock cooler.

Yes it's both. In my FJ buggy, I had a Ford 302 and a C6 (no lockup TC) and crawling the temps would really get up there with the cooler that was on it when I bought it, so I replaced it with a 70297. It was right behind me so I could hear the fan of the B&M as it turned itself on and off.

 

[4racer]

Does anyone have a 4589 and have temps to report on? Mainly someone that has it mounted close to or on the condenser?

Anything past this is going to be a 30,000+ BTU cooler. If the 4589 doesn't work then my final move will be a LPD4921. Possibly the biggest cooler I can fit based on current measurements.

 

[4racer]

***UPDATE***

Got the 4580 installed on Sunday. So far the trans has been running cooler. On the streets it holds below 180 and drops at a decent rate when stopped. Going up the long hill from work and to home, the highest temps Im now seeing 205F vs the 220F with the 70264. Overall I am happy with the difference in change.

Now the not so good part. Today in 90+ degree heat, the AC isn't blowing any where near as cold as it was previous to this. Before on setting 2, it would keep me more than cool. Now even on setting 4, until i get moving, the air is slightly cool at best. Before it very cool.

Which is now leading me back to possibly trying the 70264 + 5" Spal fan. But going to look into the AC first, possibly may replace the fan clutch as well.

After all of this, I personally believe that a single 70264 is not enough on its own to cool the transmission to an acceptable level. The 4589 would be the bare minimum to run as a stand alone, possibly better with a 5-6" fan. If in series, then a 70264 should be enough. Only downside to the 4589, is it may have an adverse effect on AC temps.

 

[LittleCaesar]

I'd start with a new fan clutch. If it is original then don't hesitate to do such. Ask Streetcreeper how much a new one has helped him.

As much as I would want to protect my tranny I couldn't live without cold AC. I would have to kiss it goodbye and swap in a R150.

 

[StreetCreeper]

I'd start with a new fan clutch. If it is original then don't hesitate to do such. Ask Streetcreeper how much a new one has helped him.

As much as I would want to protect my tranny I couldn't live without cold AC. I would have to kiss it goodbye and swap in a R150.

Yeah the fan clutch made a big difference on coolant temp at idle with the a/c blowing. Before the fan clutch, the a/c temp would climb at idle. After the new fan clutch, I can idle with a/c blowing cold.

I've wondered however, how much that extra heat being sucked from a tranny cooler would effect how efficiently the a/c condensor works. Interesting to see that 4racer is noticing an effect on his.

I'll be installing my 70264 sometime this week, but I'll be installing it inline with my new radiator. I'll note any a/c temp differences.

I monitor my a/c temps daily and have noticed the biggest variable in a/c exit temps is due to the humidity level. Temps rise quickly when the humidity goes up — even in dry-ass California where it's almost never humid.

 

[4racer]

Yeah the fan clutch made a big difference on coolant temp at idle with the a/c blowing. Before the fan clutch, the a/c temp would climb at idle. After the new fan clutch, I can idle with a/c blowing cold.

I've wondered however, how much that extra heat being sucked from a tranny cooler would effect how efficiently the a/c condensor works. Interesting to see that 4racer is noticing an effect on his.

I'll be installing my 70264 sometime this week, but I'll be installing it inline with my new radiator. I'll note any a/c temp differences.

I monitor my a/c temps daily and have noticed the biggest variable in a/c exit temps is due to the humidity level. Temps rise quickly when the humidity goes up — even in dry-ass California where it's almost never humid.

I used to run a 70264 before. Never had any issue with AC Temps. The issue came with the bigger 4589. Since it blocks pretty much the AC condenser on the entire passengers side. I feel I've effectively decreased the condenser size by half.

Only reason I don't think it's the fan clutch is my temp gauge does not move at all at idle with the AC at full blast. 100 degrees and it still stays right below half.