My truck went crazy after getting lifted... WTF

[harper7]

Somebody PM'd me a good question and I'd like to clarify something about disconnecting the brackets with wires for the ABS.

They only need to be disconnected for the Coilover install.the reason being that the LCA/hub assembly has to be lowered to get the new CO in and that is when the wire is stretched/stressed. After you get the new CO in you need to reconnect them . They are plenty long enough for even extended travel Icon CO's. They should NOT be left loose all the time.

 

[UtahSooner]

They only need to be disconnected for the Coilover install.the reason being that the LCA/hub assembly has to be lowered to get the new CO in and that is when the wire is stretched/stressed. After you get the new CO in you need to reconnect them . They are plenty long enough for even extended travel Icon CO's. They should NOT be left loose all the time.

With everything disconnected to install the COs, the LCA/hub is free to rotate and the ABS wire is the "limiting factor" in rotation. You don't necessarily need to handle the ABS wire with white gloves, but it is best to go slow and make sure the wire is stressed as little as possible. Also, thankfully I followed instructions and supported the LCA with a jack to prevent it from suddenly dropping -- this would snap the ABS wire pretty quickly.

There are 4 clamps held on with 10mm bolts that can be taken loose to give it enough slack.
You can get by with just taking the middle 2 loose really.The one on the UCA and the top one on the spindle.

When I reattaching the ABS wire brackets, I had slack in the ABS wire (on both the left and right sides) near the top of the strut mount but the lower portion of the wire (closer to the sensor hookup) was going to be stretched pretty good (i.e. eventually break) between the lower brackets. So, I CAREFULLY used a flathead screwdriver to pry open the bracket wire attachment points and the plastic wire clip (I recall there was one of these, but there may be 2 -- I'm going from memory here) and pull a little more wire through from the upper portion of the assembly. I recall that less than 1/2" of extra length in the wire on the lower section was all it took. Once you get the wire run with just enough slack in the lower section, it just takes a pair of pliers to CAREFULLY crimp the backet wire attachment points back -- as a guy that probably over torques bolts tightened by hand, it's really important not to crimp the attachment points too much -- if you do this, the whole wire run mod will be worthless since you'll break the wire at the crimp location...

Given how stretched my ABS wires were going to be if I didn't modify the wire run, I can totally see how a tech that just re-attaches the ABS wire brackets could damage a wire/sensor with very little required "brute force".

I guess the take away for those that read this thread before having a lift installed at a shop (or doing the install yourself) is to make sure the installer knows that they should be extra careful with the ABS wires with everthing taken apart and when reattaching the brackets.

 

[H2O_Doc]

I just had the driver's side wiring harness replaced. All warning lights gone and I now have ABS, which helps calm me during my wife's highly tactile driving lessons (stay off the sidewalks and away from the curbs). Anyway, it was a quick and easy fix.

Thanks

 

[Sildog]

my 2010 is doing the same thing now after some energetic snow activity. Did you confirm that it was only a wheel speed sensor at the time this happened?