Napa CV Axles

Dous

Dous

New member
Quick Question, my CV boots tore and I was gonna reboot them, but then I figured if I am gonna have it apart I might as well get new ones. I know that the Napa ones are probably the 2nd best to OEM. So here is the question

-My Napa has both NEW and REMANUFACTURED CV's. Do I want to get the Reman units because they are probably OEM shafts? Or should I go with the new variety?
 
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Ok, I have to comment.
Buy some OE re-mans from a local CV shop.
OR if yours are the Toyota OEs, have them re-booted.
 
I've heard some of the old members refer to NAPA units as SNAPA axles. I haven't had any problems personally, but I've only used them on a commuter car, not the truck. If you can, I'd try OEM reman axles or get your OEM ones rebuilt. If not, go with NEW axles from NAPA, AZ, etc. They should all carry a lifetime warranty. Maybe buy two for on-trail repairs.
 
Gerdo said:
Ok, I have to comment.
Buy some OE re-mans from a local CV shop.
OR if yours are the Toyota OEs, have them re-booted.
Click to expand...

AFAIK they are OEM units, so rebooting will definitely be cheaper. It really don't make much sense to throw away a good CV just cause a boot tore.
 
If it was just the inconvenience of swapping an axle when the CV grenades, I would say go for it.

But when you spend hours digging the broken axle stub out of the front diff (like I have, on a friend's rig) instead of wheeling, the cost is minor.
True, you don't have a lifetime warranty but I would rather have a stronger axle.
 
Dous said:
AFAIK they are OEM units, so rebooting will definitely be cheaper. It really don't make much sense to throw away a good CV just cause a boot tore.
Click to expand...

My CV shop, CVJ CVJ Axles - Remanufactured Axles & Power Racks , only resells OE axles. They will take the junk axles as a core but they toss them.

If you buy a re-man (as a replacement or a spare) ask/insist that it is an OE!

I had my stock axles re-booted (all 4 boots). They inspect and re-grease them at the same time.
 
NAPA IMHO is the best aftermarket CV out there, but if only the boot is bad, reboot them.

It is not the cleanest job so wear some disposable gloves.
 
I put the Napa 'new' ones on my truck a year ago for the same reason, after the lift my boots tore on both sides. Napa has lifetime warranty on them so not a bad deal. I kept my oems and was going to turn them into napa and get a set of remanufactured for trail spares. This way if I brake my New napa one, I swap with my spare reman, exchange my broken for a replacement, then put the new one back on. Keep the remans for trail spares.
 
Okay so if I re-boot them what boots would work best? Toyota down the street was 50 bucks a side, but I can get them at Vatozone for like 20 a side. Would the parts house boots be of decent quality?


Haha the 2wd is still here, it just gets to relax more. I bought the new one from a member here, Travolous, he lives right down the street. I will get a build thread going at some point.
 
Someone makes an aftermarket boot for another application (Porsche 930?) that are supposed to be 3x as durable. Downey used to make a great pair but the downturn in the economy killed the business. I'd stick with OEM.

I have used both Oreilys and NAPA remans (the latter on mine with a small lift) and have had no problems with the latter since early 2010.

No 4.7 in the 2wd? I think Singtoe would be up for it. Pass along the good word to him.
 
How would I know if i need to replace the whole cv axle or just get it rebooted.. im assuming i cant figure that out till its off but how exactly. also, are cv joints/ shafts just the inner part of the axle or whats the difference ?
 
and if i just decide i need them rebooted instead of replacing the whole thing would i need to buy four re boot kits for the inner and outer on both sides since both of mine are shot..
 
I was trying to figure this out as well and decided to reboot. From searching and talking to some shops, it seems that as long as the axle isn't clicking and has been holding grease and not been driven with a contaminated joint, it shouldn't really wear out. The OEM boot kit comes with both inner and outer boots and bands, so you'll need two kits and a clamp tool.
 
flyinbrick said:
I was trying to figure this out as well and decided to reboot. From searching and talking to some shops, it seems that as long as the axle isn't clicking and has been holding grease and not been driven with a contaminated joint, it shouldn't really wear out. The OEM boot kit comes with both inner and outer boots and bands, so you'll need two kits and a clamp tool.
Click to expand...

so if it is clicking that means the cvjoint is busted and should be fully replaced...im assuming
 
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