Need advice - Aiming for 35's and new wheels. Trying to avoid mistakes.

[ThrillerR1]

First post. I've been digging through the forum for a while on the proper or best way to get my 06 Sport up on some 35's. Looking for advice from those that have done it so I can avoid wasting money/time. Anyone see any issues with this setup? Thanks in advance.

• 06 Sport on OEM 17's.
• Cornfed 3/2 lift
• RB 1.5" body lift
• Camburg UCA's (310036)
• Body chop mod
• Fenders and bumpers trimmed as necessary (aftermarket bumpers next year)
• SCS SR8 17x8.5 wheels (-10mm offset, 4.3" backspacing)
• Toyo Open Country MT's 315\70R17 (34.6" x 12.7")
• RCI skids
• Shrockworks sliders

The goal is to have a wider stance, little to no rubbing, and full steering lock. I believe others have run this or a very similar combo (A10MileHusker?) so it should work right?

If those wheels won't work, I'm also considering Method Racing 17x8.5 (0 offset, 4.75" backspacing)

 

[Snugg]

I think 35's is going to be pretty difficult. I have the same lift as you but without the body lift. Maybe that's where the difference will be. But I had 33's and there was a good amount of rubbing even after trimming a lot of the body.

When I looked into 35's I found I would have to go with a higher lift and get away from the spacers and stock suspension.

 

[Inv4drZm]

The spacer lift might cause issues, why not swap out shocks as well? Your XREAS is probably getting old, not sure it will handle the heavier 35's well.

 

[WhiteBoomer04]

The only other thing you might want to consider is restricting your turn radius a bit. Weld a nut or the like on the steering stop. You may find that will stop rubbing on the chassis rail.

And I don't see if you have already have aftermarket upper control arms but that would be a necessity IMO.

 

[ThrillerR1]

The spacer lift might cause issues, why not swap out shocks as well? Your XREAS is probably getting old, not sure it will handle the heavier 35's well.

What issues would the spacer cause? I'm trying to stay on the cheap side for now, leaving XREAS in place, until I can afford an Icon suspension.

The only other thing you might want to consider is restricting your turn radius a bit. Weld a nut or the like on the steering stop. You may find that will stop rubbing on the chassis rail.

And I don't see if you have already have aftermarket upper control arms but that would be a necessity IMO.

Forgot to add it to the list but yes, UCA's are on the list. Going with Icon.

 

[Inv4drZm]

What issues would the spacer cause? I'm trying to stay on the cheap side for now, leaving XREAS in place, until I can afford an Icon suspension.

It's good you're planning on replacing the shocks, I don't have experience with spacers but once you get a proper suspension kit with heavier coils, especially with those other mods, you'll be impressed with the performance increase all around.

The spacers would just be a crutch, and I'm just not sure how the stock shocks will hold up to wheeling with all the extra weight. Your spending all this money on armor/wheels/expensive tires you'll just be missing out on the suspension for a little while I guess.

 

[having fun]

Spacer lift ( pre load ) and BL will help with rubbing, changing to a suspension lift, you might start gaining additional rubbing.

Then again, on stock coils and adding weight, you'll sag even more causing more rubbing.

Most of rubbing is created from larger diameter and suspension compression.

 

[ThrillerR1]

I'm mostly worried about the wheels. I've never bought offroad wheels before. From what I've read, stock wheels with 1.25" spacers is about the same as 17x8.5 w/ 0 offset as far as how much they stick out. So -10 offset should only stick out a little bit more.

Will those wheels be ok for my setup?

 

[Inv4drZm]

I'm mostly worried about the wheels. I've never bought offroad wheels before. From what I've read, stock wheels with 1.25" spacers is about the same as 17x8.5 w/ 0 offset as far as how much they stick out. So -10 offset should only stick out a little bit more.

Will those wheels be ok for my setup?

They will be perfect, I have the same exact SCS wheels, and a handful of others on the forum do as well. And everyone on Tacomaworld.

 

[ThrillerR1]

They will be perfect, I have the same exact SCS wheels, and a handful of others on the forum do as well. And everyone on Tacomaworld.

Awesome, thanks for the info.

 

[Keros]

I don't have time to dig through and find the thread, yet I recall a post about a Tundra with 35" tires on stock bilstein shocks. He hit a pot hole and bent the lower shock's mount into a pretzel. Not the lower control arm... the shock itself twisted up and broke open. The suspension compressed with such force and speed that the shock was squished while attempting to control the wheel. Sure, the rebound rates match the springs and all that... but the physical casing was not able to withstand the force applied to it by the tire.

The stock shocks are not structurally designed to control a +100lb tire under duress. The physical strength of the shock itself wasn't something I considered when shopping wheels/tires... but comparing the stocker to my 6112's, it's pretty serious business.

I'm sure the XREAS would be ok around town... but mine was terrible on stock tires down gravel roads. They over heated in a couple of minutes and we bounced endlessly down the road. It would be a thing of horror to watch a 4Runner on stock suspension and 35" tires bomb down a pot holed road. The shocks are not capable of controlling a tire that heavy on the best of days... extreme cycling up and down like that would kill them quickly. And the spinal alignment of the vehicle's occupants.

Supposedly at around 3" of lift it's difficult to get the truck back to OEM spec alignment, making it feel nervous at high speed. Aftermarket UCAs correct this, I bring this up because it wasn't in the parts list. It's something to really consider for that much lift.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Toyo MTs are HEAVY, soft tires, you're going to want a proper suspension to control that unsprung weight or those tires will be ruined very easily.

The problem with a spacer lift is that you're going to need closer to 5 degrees of Caster to get those 35's to clear away from the body mount (even chopped) and back of the fender. With a spacer lift you're going to be lucky to hit high 3's without sacrificing Camber (which will chew up your tires). Even then you'd need a good set of UCA's that you won't be fighting to get closer to 5 degrees of Caster, my SPCs were very adjustable but getting them to 5.5 was struggle.

I'd go ahead and toss any assumptions of having full lock to lock out of the window, that's something that's tricky to guarantee with 33's and even trickier with 35's because of suspension geometry. Just to give you an idea, my old set-up with SPC UCAs and about 5.5 degrees of Caster was rubbing the sway bar at full lock. My new set-up with the Camburg UCAs is rubbing on the sway bar and actually slightly the UCA itself at full lock. Not a big deal, but I need to make/weld a 3/4~1" spacer on the steering stop ends to stop nicking the pretty powdercoating on my UCAs. That's with a LT35x12.15R17 Toyo Open Country R/T on 17x9 -12 Offset (4.5 Backspacing) Fuel D564 Beast Wheel.

1.5" body lift is what I'm running as well, I made mine, but it'll work none the less. The main point comes down to your suspension, it's not going to do a good job supporting the 35's. It's probably not going to snap anything under normal driving unless you hit some potholes, but those factory shocks or even 5100's just won't do a good job controlling those heavy tires. From what I've seen, those tires will get cupped and chewed up in under 5k, particularly the Toyo Open Country M/Ts; they're a very soft tire as I mentioned before, so chalking them is critical to get a good pressure and good suspension to control the unsprung weight will go a long way.

 

[having fun]

Running Camburgs myself and you can keep 315s off the no body mount chop with 1.3 caster. I know low but ever since I changed from SPCs that's about the best I've been.

No body lift either and slight rub on UCA.

 

[CruzadoBlanco]

As already stated that stock suspension is gonna have issue controlling the unsprung weight. Aftermarket UCAs are pretty much mandatory to even be close to fitting those tires without tubbing the firewall. Even then a whole lot needs to be cut/ hammered flat. The wheels will be fine, I run fj trail teams wheels with 1.25 spacers for my 35x12.50s. Personally I'd do suspension first then tires.

 

[ThrillerR1]

Running Camburgs myself and you can keep 315s off the no body mount chop with 1.3 caster. I know low but ever since I changed from SPCs that's about the best I've been.

No body lift either and slight rub on UCA.

Which Camburg UCA's do you have? The 310036 or 310037?

 

[having fun]

Which Camburg UCA's do you have? The 310036 or 310037?

310036. Will never go to a BJ style again.

 

[ThrillerR1]

As already stated that stock suspension is gonna have issue controlling the unsprung weight. Aftermarket UCAs are pretty much mandatory to even be close to fitting those tires without tubbing the firewall. Even then a whole lot needs to be cut/ hammered flat. The wheels will be fine, I run fj trail teams wheels with 1.25 spacers for my 35x12.50s. Personally I'd do suspension first then tires.

I forgot to put UCA's in the list but they are on there. Next year I'll be getting an Icon suspension. Hopefully the stock suspension can hold out a year or highway and light trails.

 

[ThrillerR1]

310036. Will never go to a BJ style again.

Thanks man! I'll add them to the list.

 

[ThrillerR1]

Toyo MTs are HEAVY, soft tires, you're going to want a proper suspension to control that unsprung weight or those tires will be ruined very easily.

The problem with a spacer lift is that you're going to need closer to 5 degrees of Caster to get those 35's to clear away from the body mount (even chopped) and back of the fender. With a spacer lift you're going to be lucky to hit high 3's without sacrificing Camber (which will chew up your tires). Even then you'd need a good set of UCA's that you won't be fighting to get closer to 5 degrees of Caster, my SPCs were very adjustable but getting them to 5.5 was struggle.

I'd go ahead and toss any assumptions of having full lock to lock out of the window, that's something that's tricky to guarantee with 33's and even trickier with 35's because of suspension geometry. Just to give you an idea, my old set-up with SPC UCAs and about 5.5 degrees of Caster was rubbing the sway bar at full lock. My new set-up with the Camburg UCAs is rubbing on the sway bar and actually slightly the UCA itself at full lock. Not a big deal, but I need to make/weld a 3/4~1" spacer on the steering stop ends to stop nicking the pretty powdercoating on my UCAs. That's with a LT35x12.15R17 Toyo Open Country R/T on 17x9 -12 Offset (4.5 Backspacing) Fuel D564 Beast Wheel.

1.5" body lift is what I'm running as well, I made mine, but it'll work none the less. The main point comes down to your suspension, it's not going to do a good job supporting the 35's. It's probably not going to snap anything under normal driving unless you hit some potholes, but those factory shocks or even 5100's just won't do a good job controlling those heavy tires. From what I've seen, those tires will get cupped and chewed up in under 5k, particularly the Toyo Open Country M/Ts; they're a very soft tire as I mentioned before, so chalking them is critical to get a good pressure and good suspension to control the unsprung weight will go a long way.

Is there a better tire you'd recommend? I haven't dug into tires a bunch but the Toyo's came up tops for 50/50% offroad use.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Running Camburgs myself and you can keep 315s off the no body mount chop with 1.3 caster. I know low but ever since I changed from SPCs that's about the best I've been.

No body lift either and slight rub on UCA.

Really? Those Camburgs should get you a bit better in the ballpark of 3 at least. I've got the fancy pants billet ones, they're pricey as **** but I'll tell you all I did is set the bushings to the "High-Caster" setting and then slightly adjusted my cams to get 6.1* Caster & -0.5* Camber. With how much I fought the SPC's to do it, I was shocked how easy it was with the Kinetiks. Also brought my SAI to near factory, though that's probably why on full lock the 35's are nipping the edge of the UCA's.

Suspension Geometry can be weird. Those 315/70R17's (I assume that's what you have) are 34.4" tall which is probably just enough to get off the body mount after it's been chopped. I had about 4* when I threw the 35's on and at turns on slight compression the 35's rubbed what was left of the body mount, so I bumped it to 5.5*. I imagine in your case with that missing .6" it'd give you more leeway. When it comes to 35's fractions of an inch mean a lot, which is why I get why some people just do 34's and call it a day. lol

Is there a better tire you'd recommend? I haven't dug into tires a bunch but the Toyo's came up tops for 50/50% offroad use.

I'm not saying the Toyo M/Ts are bad tires. I'm just letting you know their main negative characteristics. They're a good balance between Mud Terrain and On-Road use, part of that is that they have a rather soft rubber compound (like most M/Ts) and that they are a much heavier tire compared to some of their competitors. Something else to note is they lack a lot of smaller siping so they're not the best in slicker/icier conditions.

I like my Open Country R/T tires, they're just as good on-road as off-road and while a step down from the M/Ts in aggressiveness, they've been tackling plenty of trails. They also do well in the winter from what I've played with. When it comes to tires, just be realistic on what you're using them for. I went with the R/Ts because the M/Ts rated poorly for winter driving compared to the R/T (by Toyo themselves) and because while I do hit the trails, I do a lot of on-road driving as well. So far they've been a great balance between my two needs, but in your case you may find the M/Ts or even another tire to be better.

But for the most part you're going to run into the same issues, you'll need to chalk your tires to get a good baseline for what your tire pressure should be in your set-up and you'll need a good suspension to handle all that unsprung weight.