Need advice! Another rusted frame...

[rossmkh]

Hey everyone! I'm trying to get some advice on what to do about my truck with the dreaded frame rust problem...

To make a long story short....sold my '97 2wd 4cyl manual 4Runner before the big move from FL to CA last May (I now regret that decision)...

I broke the cardinal rule of "sleeping on it" and found an '01 Limited 4wd with 98k miles and bought it same day. I severely underestimated how much rust was on this truck. I could list a bunch of excuses like "I'm from Florida, we don't usually have to worry about rust" and "I didn't have a truck and needed a new one to move 3k miles in the next week" but in the end it's 100% my fault and now I'm just trying to figure out what to do next.

I've had the truck now for a year and it's been amazing. I've put over 10k miles on it and it hasn't given me any problems. It runs great, drives great, it's way more comfy than my '97...and it's 4x4. It even survived my solo, week long, 3k mile drive from Florida to California while towing a trailer.

My question is....should I sell the truck as is (and just take a loss $$), fully disclosing the rust issue OR drive until it dies/falls apart? It currently has only 110k miles. The interior is almost perfect and from the outside it looks almost brand new (except for mild clear coat issues on the roof/hood). Any advice is appreciated

 

[Moonbandit]

I’ll take it off your hands for $3,000 tomorrow... let me know

There’s nothing there to worry about FYI.. all surface rust.. just wire wheel it off and paint it. All before you sell it and lose a bunch of money due to lack of knowledge. You should do a search for ACTUAL frame rust.

Seriously

 

[rossmkh]

I’ll take it off your hands for $3,000 tomorrow... let me know

There’s nothing there to worry about FYI.. all surface rust.. just wire wheel it off and paint it. All before you sell it and lose a bunch of money due to lack of knowledge. You should do a search for ACTUAL frame rust.

Seriously

Thanks! When I initially bought it, I did see the rust but didn't think much of it...but a Toyota mechanic I took the truck to (for an oil change) told me that he wouldn't do anything but the oil change because it had "too much rust" to work on, so then I started second guessing. The pics I posted are the worst of it.

 

[Moonbandit]

2 possible reasons for what that mechanic said.

1. He wants to buy it off of you to flip it and make a huge profit. Or has a “friend who’d like to buy it “. In this case he is a scamming POS and I’d find another mechanic ASAP. Given how many mechanics in Cali are garbage, I’d even be suspicious of letting this guy change my oil. Better yet, you should become more informed and do your own maintenance. 110k 4wd in Cali will get you about 10k.

2. He is ignorant of rust because he has only ever been in Cali. This seems unlikely But you never know.

Good luck. Congrats also.

 

[MaineRunna]

In California that is a rusted out POS, in Maine that is light surface rust. Clean it up and paint it or coat it with Fluid Film or some other oily, rust inhibiting substance. I'll post a pic of a real rusted frame when I get to work in a little bit.

 

[thegipper]

Your rust (on face value) is nothing that a Saturday and a wire wheel couldn't clean up. Coat the frame with some POR15 and use a good rust inhibitor moving forward. Your truck will be fine, it just needs some love..

 

[mack10]

Um, I know you southern guys are all spoiled over the rust but this is nothing... Wire wheel it, sandblast if you want to do a pro job, check for any suspect areas with the pointy end of a slag hammer, undercoat, and re-inspect every couple months. Nothing to worry about if you can stay on top of it and there already isn't serious rot forming. You're in a good spot and all it needs is some of your time and NOT alot of money to deal with. Only thing that looks off based on the pictures is the driveshaft.

Check out my frame rot repair thread if you want to have a real heart attack:

Frame rot repair - tell me I'm going to h***

 

[Riceye]

Around here we call that "patina".

 

[gamefreakgc]

2. He is ignorant of rust because he has only ever been in Cali. This seems unlikely But you never know.

Actually, this is it. I wouldn't be surprised if that's the most rust the mechanic has ever seen. For CA standards, that's an absolute rust bucket. But relative to what northern states see, yeah it's nothing at all.

As long as you can't poke holes in the frames or near the control arms it's solid. Now if you ever try and swap out suspension parts, prepare for a real fight!

 

[GhostBear]

Hey guys, brand new to the site. I was gonna post about what to look for in rust and or buying a new 3gen 4runner but I don't have enough points(?) to do that or something.

I already checked out the vehicle and all the electronics work (all windows, sunroof, ect...), as well as the 4wd. Guy uses it as his daily driver at the moment and said it has a bit of a wobble above 60mph (I figure thats a balancing).

Looking to do the deal tomorrow so this is all a bit time sensitive. Looking for advice on things to be aware of in gen3's, advice for the future and anything that screams don't buy me.

Thanks!!!

 

[thegipper]

Hey guys, brand new to the site. I was gonna post about what to look for in rust and or buying a new 3gen 4runner but I don't have enough points(?) to do that or something.

I already checked out the vehicle and all the electronics work (all windows, sunroof, ect...), as well as the 4wd. Guy uses it as his daily driver at the moment and said it has a bit of a wobble above 60mph (I figure thats a balancing).

Looking to do the deal tomorrow so this is all a bit time sensitive. Looking for advice on things to be aware of in gen3's, advice for the future and anything that screams don't buy me.

Thanks!!!

Read this 3rd Gen 4Runner Buyer's Guide - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum

 

[Kanoe]

Hey guys, brand new to the site. I was gonna post about what to look for in rust and or buying a new 3gen 4runner but I don't have enough points(?) to do that or something.

Your biggest regret will be if you buy a rust bucket. Crawl under it and check around the rear lower control arm brackets.

 

[Jidaran]

As useful as the buyers guide is, it's light on rust info.

Be sure to check *inside* the frame. These frames often rust from the inside out. There are lots of holes in the beams - poke your finger in there and see if you can feel rust. Surface rust isn't so bad, but if it's flaking off in chunks that could be a deal breaker. It often is the worst near the lower control arm, so be sure to check there.

 

[JohnOfTheJungle]

The reason why he said he wouldn't work on it probably just more because all of the nuts and bolts will be rusted and seized up, which turns a 1 hour job into a 4 hour job - meaning he'll lose money on it.

Can't say he's wrong there, but that's just something to deal with. Structurally it looks fine, like others said - Fluid Film is easy prevention for future rust. You'll probably be best off investing in an 18v impact wrench, torch, and PBlaster and doing easier work yourself, where most of your time will be spent removing/breaking off rusted fasteners.

Or just be okay paying a little extra to mechanics to deal with it.

 

[phattyduck]

NAPA carries Fluid Film, even here in SoCal (well, in spray cans, not huge tubs). Hit all the rust and stop worrying. Re-apply every year or two. Without real winters (cold/wet) and salt, that thing won't get any worse.

Sucks, 'cause you could have gotten a southern truck - but enjoy what you have!

-Charlie

 

[Mark_BC]

Looks deeper than surface rust but not too bad. As mentioned by John of the jungle the other concern is you'll break every bolt you turn. I know, I have 3 runners. One is relatively rust free and a pleasure to work on. The other two have rust but not as much as the op's and they are a b!tch to work on.

 

[MaineRunna]

The reason why he said he wouldn't work on it probably just more because all of the nuts and bolts will be rusted and seized up, which turns a 1 hour job into a 4 hour job - meaning he'll lose money on it.

Can't say he's wrong there, but that's just something to deal with. Structurally it looks fine, like others said - Fluid Film is easy prevention for future rust. You'll probably be best off investing in an 18v impact wrench, torch, and PBlaster and doing easier work yourself, where most of your time will be spent removing/breaking off rusted fasteners.

Or just be okay paying a little extra to mechanics to deal with it.

Cali boys don't like rust. I don't like rust, but working on shit like this is my life.
Here's some pics of real rust

 

[mack10]

LOL we need a rust porn thread I kinda get off on these pics

 

[JohnOfTheJungle]

Cali boys don't like rust. I don't like rust, but working on shit like this is my life.
Here's some pics of real rust

Brutal!!

Are those all different trucks and did you weld in new steel to save them?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[MaineRunna]

Brutal!!

Are those all different trucks and did you weld in new steel to save them?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I do fix these when they are fixable, but these are two junks out back, all the frame pics are a 99 frame with my old 97 body sitting on top of it. The welded in piece was just so the LCA mount wouldn't rip off when we towed it around back. The duct taped rocker is a 97 that I just acquired.