Need Brake Drum Experts

mcaz5

mcaz5

New member
So today I decide I'm gonna deal with my frozen bellcranks. I get everything taken apart and end up messing something up on the bellcranks and I'm going to have to buy a new one(not the issue). So I decide I'm gonna put the drum back on and just leave it as is until the new bellcrank. At this point the brake arm lever when pushed in, loses its tension and the assembly with the star wheel locks out. Now to get tension back into the brake arm I just have to push the star wheel assembly down and it's fine. I'm not sure if its supposed to lock like this but I wasn't sure. Now here is where my problems began. I had dumb moment and pumped the brakes to see if the arm would lock out when I pushed the brakes(stupid I know, I wasn't thinking) At this point brake fluid proceeds to gush out of the brake cylinder and the drum shoes will not move because they are pushed all the way to the right. Now when I turn the vehicle on the pump the brakes and release brake fluid will now gush from the cylinder. The cylinder is stiff and wont move freely like before and this is what cause the shoes to be shifted to the right. Is there anything I can do to fix this? I'm assuming I'll need a new cylinder right? Anything else I can check before hand? I may have not explained everything very well but if you need more detail on a certain issue I can try and explain better.

Notice the wheel cylinder full of fluid.
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was it leaking before pushing the brake? Replace the cylinder. Very cheap.


If it wasn't, remove the dustcover from the right side. pull the piston out, clean everything. Put the piston back in, re-install the dust cap.


You will want to make sure everything is dry. Put the brakes back together, bleed it, remove the drum again and check for leaks.
 
Don't forget to either remove the wheel cylinder (easiest) or crack the bleeder (quickest). Otherwise it'l never go back together.

Trick- if you over tighten the brakes, use a small flat head to push the keeper off of the gear then adjust back inwards. Saves having to pull the wheel and drum again.

Did you get the drums turned?

What could possibly be wrong with the "bell cranck" as I am assuming it's what I call the adjuster? One side is reverse thread FYI. Fill that sucker full of grease to keep moisture out and prevent corrosion and it siezing up.
 
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The wheel cylinder was working fine before, no fluids, and when I went to push the pedal with the drum off, the boot of the cylinder filled with fluid and started leaking. Before I could move each side of the cylinder freely, but it froze in a position where it's like the whole shoe is shifted to the right and I can't put the drum on.

I'd like to try and tinker with it if I can, just for the fact of learning. And possibly fix it without buying a new cylinder, which isn't a problem, but like I said I like to tinker. As far as removing the cylinder will I have to pull the shoes? I'm not sure if ill be able to re attach the springs if I do.

As far as the bell crank, it was seized causing me to have a non functioning e-brake. I got that off no problem, but like I said the brake arm catching kind of worried me, can anyone clarify that? Basically when I would push the brake arm in(gold arm) to release the tension cable thing, the assembly with the star gear would shift up causing the shoes to stay expanded and losing all tension on the arm. Now to fix this I just had to put pressure downward on the star gear assembly and everything would pop back into place. I was just worried that when I went to apply the brakes that the star gear assembly would lock out like that causing me to have to pull the drum and everything to get it loose.
 
Wheres your adjuster locking bar? It is a piece that goes over the gold brake arm? The adjuster on mine had a little nub that fit into adjuster lock bar and would prevent it from shifting.
 
I attempted to check out my rear brakes for the first time to see how everything looks back there. I got as far as getting the wheels off. I couldn't break the drum free. I'm guessing the shoes wore a groove into it?? I'm going to try again tomorrow.
 
zooroadbaja said:
Thanks for the link. I have the factory repair manual and saw this in there. But I couldn't see into the hole, which made finding the arm to lift up on difficult. I'm going to give it another shot again tomorrow, when I have more time.
Click to expand...

Make sure the e-brake is off. Good luck.
 
To the OP: make sure the E-brake line is not pinched and can move freely. I cannot remember much more than that since it has been years since I had mine off.

To remove a stuck drum: use two M8x1.25 x 2"bolts and thread them into the drum (there are tiny threads). Clockwise and alternate between the bolts until they hit the backing plate, where they should pop off. Try Durk's link first of taking off all the tension on the star adjuster. Last resort: BFH and a pry bar.
 
Its a good time for new cylinders. $25 each at rockauto.com

To tinkerwith the old cylinder, loosen the bleeder screw and pull off the rubber dust boot, carefully push the piston back in while supporting the other piston. The bleeder will leak of course but once you get the piston in, tighten the bleeder. Then if I plan to work on the shoes, i will use a c clamp or zipties to hold the pistons in.

To set up the shoes, i assemble the shoes off the truck then work the whole setup into place with springs attached. Then secure the setup with the spring pins at 3 & 9 o'clock. The final step, using a flat screwdriver, I pry the blue spring under the catch at the bottom and it pops into position. One of these days I should make a video of how to do it with no specialized tools.
 
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i had something similar to this happen to me, i drove a ways with my E-brake on(wasnt paying attention) and pressed on the brakes, long story short i blew my wheel cylinders, and had to get it towed home, as i had no spares...

easy fix, dont waste your time pushing it back in ect, they are cheap enough just buy new ones and put them in. i would bet good money they are the originals and are over do for replacement anyways. and while your at it, just put new shoes on things and get new springs ect, freshing everything up back there, and that way you dont have to worry about getting the old shoes(pads) clean.

when this happened to me i went down to napa and got all new everything except the drums for like $45. it was well worth it, and now my E brake is working better too!
 
Drcoffee said:
Its a good time for new cylinders. $25 each at rockauto.com

To tinkerwith the old cylinder, loosen the bleeder screw and pull off the rubber dust boot, carefully push the piston back in while supporting the other piston. The bleeder will leak of course but once you get the piston in, tighten the bleeder. Then if I plan to work on the shoes, i will use a c clamp or zipties to hold the pistons in.

To set up the shoes, i assemble the shoes off the truck then work the whole setup into place with springs attached. Then secure the setup with the spring pins at 3 & 9 o'clock. The final step, using a flat screwdriver, I pry the blue spring under the catch at the bottom and it pops into position. One of these days I should make a video of how to do it with no specialized tools.
Click to expand...

Hey thanks man. I'll check that out in the morning. One thing I did notice before I screwed everything by pressing the brakes was that the piston would move freely before. After fluid started coming out of the dust boot it seems to have locked up. Ill loosen the bleeder screw and try and move it tomorrow, and I'll report back.

On more of a side note, you've helped me out a few times giving some great info. That's what I love about this site, the amount of info is abundant and all the write ups make everything a lot simpler for someone's who's just started tinkering with my rig. Just a thank you to anyone that's help contribute to this site and me personally! Maybe I can help return the favor one day as well. :cheers:
 
the kid said:
i had something similar to this happen to me, i drove a ways with my E-brake on(wasnt paying attention) and pressed on the brakes, long story short i blew my wheel cylinders, and had to get it towed home, as i had no spares...

easy fix, dont waste your time pushing it back in ect, they are cheap enough just buy new ones and put them in. i would bet good money they are the originals and are over do for replacement anyways. and while your at it, just put new shoes on things and get new springs ect, freshing everything up back there, and that way you dont have to worry about getting the old shoes(pads) clean.

when this happened to me i went down to napa and got all new everything except the drums for like $45. it was well worth it, and now my E brake is working better too!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the good info! They don't look to difficult to replace. Were yours leaking out of the boots? Ill probably play around with the old one some tomorrow 1. I've gotta stop by the dealership and either order or pick up a new base block for the bell crank, so ill have to wait on that 2. Im on spring break and don't really need my truck back and ready to go until Monday by the very latest, so why not mess around with it even though ill most likely buy a new cylinder.
 
When you popped the piston, you may have damaged the seal around the piston. My guess from experience is that once you disturb the seal on an old setup it will start to leak even if you get it back together. Better off with new. Just make sure you cap the brake line and dont get air in the line. Thats a whole other job. There are a lot of youtube videos on bleeding brake and adjusting drum brakes. Dont go into this blind.
 
pull the boot all the way of... i bet you will find some amount of rust in things in behind that boot. once they come apart they dont really work the same again, they like any other moving part have a wear pattern, and while they are not as critical as say rings on the piston or bearings on the crank in your motor, they do like to ride in the "groves" they have created over time, and changing that can hurt the seals on them and alow them to start leaking. also the boot might have ripped or have a small tear in it now, that will let dirt, grime and other contaminants into the cylinder, which will also hurt the seals and allow for leaks. plus these things are cheap enough, like i said i think i paid like $45 for everything, i think the two new wheel cylinders were like $8 ea, and it was like $25 for new shoes -oh an i think like another $10 for a spring kit, so like $55, but still $55 to have all new brakes in the back -as long as your drums are not scored or deeply gouged then dont replace those.
 
Thanks guys! Once I realized how easy it was to pull the cylinder off I just went ahead and replaced it with a new one. My shoes were in great shape and none of the fluid have come in contact with them. I will however get around to replacing the other side cylinder when the weather warms up a bit. It was 30F out there when I was working on it.

Now I just have to order a new bell crank bracket and ill be back on the road. The dealer wanted $40 for one but I've already found them for $30 online. Thanks again everyone!
 
Bell crank

There is a write up somewhere on the forum to restore the seized bell crank. I was able to separate mine and grind off the rust and repaint it. You shouldnt need to buy a new one. Just coat the pivot point well with gear or marine lube before reinstalling it.
 
I'm about sick of these drum brakes. I can't freakin figure out why this right side keeps locking up on me. It all started when my bellcrank seized and I disassembled that ground off the rust and re-lubed everything and reinstalling. It still did not solve the issue. While doing that I managed to burst a wheel cylinder so I bought a new one of those and installed. I've also sanded the shoes with light grit paper and cleaned with alcohol and they were as smooth as could be. It's gotta be something with the auto adjuster because today I pulled the parking brake and after I pulled it, it has been locking like crazy and groaning when I stop. Anyone have any ideas?
 
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