Need help/advice buying 4R

GreyDawg

New member
I dread buying vehicles when haggling is involved. I don't enjoy the process, and I'm not good at it. I probably look like an easy mark the moment I hit the lot.

So I need help.

I have been looking for a 2012 or 2013 SR5 4WD with <50K miles, no 3rd row seat, with sunroof, and not black or preferably not dark grey. The ones I've found within about 300 miles are either black, or the asking price is between $32K and $35K!

So after looking at the http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/192171-help-me-find-dealership.html thread, I started thinking "why not new?" I checked the Costco Auto page, and it showed invoice for an SR5 4WD to be $32,794 (including destination), and MSRP to be $35,535. For a SR5 Premium (which may be what I have to do to get a sunroof) the numbers are $35,749 and $38,775. These aren't much more than they're trying to get for used.

And according to the thread, March is the end of Toyota's fiscal year, and of course, this is the last week of the month ....

So I may be talking myself into a new 2014 or 2015 SR5. But -- and this is where I need help -- the last time I bought a new car was 2000, and I got the Ford friends & family pricing, so no negotiations involved. And now the new car buying game seem to have changed totally, thanks to the 'net.

If I want to get a good deal on a new 4R, how do I find it? I can fly just about anywhere this week to do the deal, but TX/OK/NM/CO/AZ/UT would be preferred. And I'd be a cash buyer. Should I just go the Costco route?

I want to get the terms of the deal settled --or nearly so --before I appear at the dealership. I don't want them to think, "A-ha! Clearly clueless!"

Thanks for any advice you can give.
 
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This winter I went into a Toyota dealer to test drive and ended up buying on the spot. Normally this is not what I do, I tend to make the salesman sweat a little because you won't get the best deal unless they know you are willing to walk away. The difference this time? He showed me his invoice, which matched what I saw online, and said his price was $500 over invoice. I thought that was fantastic, loving the honesty. Not saying every dealer will do that, but in this day and age, to walk into a dealer and say "This is the invoice, I am willing to pay $X above it" is perfectly acceptable. Even if they say no it gets the conversation about what they are willing to take above invoice rather than big abstract numbers, and shows you did your homework.

Anyway, good luck and don't forget to enjoy the process.
 
I agree with Monkey. Compare, compare, compare, and don't be afraid to pit the dealers against each other. Spread your search as far as you are able. There was a 5k difference in price between Austin and San Antonio when I purchased my last truck. Bring price info with you, and don't be afraid to simply walk out if it is not the deal for you.
 
I agree with Monkey. Compare, compare, compare, and don't be afraid to pit the dealers against each other. Spread your search as far as you are able. There was a 5k difference in price between Austin and San Antonio when I purchased my last truck. Bring price info with you, and don't be afraid to simply walk out if it is not the deal for you.

Yes, getting away from Austin seems to be key. For everything.

Is there anyway to do the "pitting" online?

As a female with greying hair, they think I haven't got a clue (which is sort of close to correct, at least about the haggling process). I ask about drive train, differentials and towing capacity, and they respond with color choices. Grrrr.
 
The pitting would simply include having all the prices in front of you. Document each dealer's prices. simply say, well, I can get it cheaper here, or here, even if it is only by a small amount.
 
Just go to Costco and be done with it. You don't want to do what is necessary to get the best deal and that's fine. But you have to realize that by choosing not to haggle or negotiate you are probably going to leave some money on the table. Is it worth it to you? Your choice. Another option would be to pay a broker and let them do the deal for you. Costo or a broker. Remember at the end of the day as long as you are happy then you got a good deal, regardless of the price.
 
I have an AWD Element to trade. Do I keep silent about that until I've got a price set on the new truck?

(Sorry for all the questions -- I've never traded a vehicle. I usually drive 'em into the ground. Hence no new car purchase since 2000. The Element was inherited).

Thanks so much for taking time to coach me on this process! I think a trip to San Antonio mid-week may be on the calendar.
 
Assuming you know specifically what you want, visit some local dealerships and talk numbers. This will also give you an opportunity to test-drive. After a few days you will have a good idea where they stand. After the first visit, conduct all follow-up negotiations via email. I would at that time also email every single dealership within the radius you are looking and make the offer you want and indicate you can finalize the deal very quickly. No need to lay out all of your cards, the dealer certainly won't. Good luck!

Ps- it seems to be common that mid single digits % off MRSP is reasonable. I don't think people get 10%+ off new vehicles unless they are leftovers.
 
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Just go to Costco and be done with it. You don't want to do what is necessary to get the best deal and that's fine. But you have to realize that by choosing not to haggle or negotiate you are probably going to leave some money on the table. Is it worth it to you? Your choice. Another option would be to pay a broker and let them do the deal for you. Costo or a broker. Remember at the end of the day as long as you are happy then you got a good deal, regardless of the price.

I'm going to end up leaving money on the table, no matter what. That's part of not being a good haggler. Oh, well. I just don't want to leave absurd amounts of money on the table. And I have a budget max.

Am I correct in interpreting the Toyota specs that to get a sunroof, I have to go with the Premium, which includes the nav unit that I don't want? That's it isn't an option that might have been added to a regular SR5?

Sounds like a call to Costco is in order this week, as well as daytripping to San Antonio...

Here's the good news: I won't have to do this again for a decade!

Thanks again for taking time to help!
 
I live in Austin, and have purchased my last 5 vehicles outside of Austin for very good reason. The dealers here are overpriced and the people who live here are mostly stupid and lazy enough to pay the inflated prices.

4wd Sr5s are also pretty rare in Texas.

Your best bets are Houston and Dallas. SA is also typically too high to bother looking.

Anyway, I usually do all my dealings on the phone and email. No reason to walk into a dealership once I know what I want. I usually search inventory online, find what I want and contact the internet sales folks. I'm very clear that I won't show up until I have a contract in hand... I never do financing or trade with the dealer.. I also never rush it. It might take a few weeks to find the right deal.

One thing I have learned over the years is that a quick deal is almost always a bad deal. The good ones take time to develop.

The most extreme example was a car I purchased in 2009. I paid 24k for it in Houston (granted the dealer was closing it's doors...). Austin dealer wanted 34k for the exact same car. I showed them my contract to see if they would come close and they tried to tell me it was a lie and other charges would be added when I got there.... It was totally legit and I still have that fantastic car.

In the end, your time is also money. So balance that out.
 
My company recently just added Toyota to their special pricing plan similar to the X plan and I can say you can find better deals by going to a dealer that wants to work with you.
If 4WD is what you want/need, you may need to consider going a little further north. When I shopped I shopped from Southern LA up to Memphis and 4wd appears to be more plentiful in areas where there could potentially have snow.
 
it really easy.... there isnt much discounts on the 4runner. so know what your trade is worth and VIA EMAIL ONLY go out to all dealers around you and tell them what you want.... work them against each other until you get the lowest price! You can get lower than true car and costco pricing
 
I did my 4 runner purchase online and over the phone before I got to the dealer. Toyota of Fort Worth and Dallas were the final 2. Came down to Dallas giving me a good amount more for my trade.
I worked out a number on the 4 runner I was happy with and then mentioned I had a trade. Dont be afraid to let the dealer know you are busy but want the best deal so you are contacting different ones to check on inventory and price. This usually helps getting their best up front.
Toyota of Dallas is having a grand opening block party on March 28 for their new store and supposed to have deals and give aways.
 
I'm up here in Tulsa area, and the dealers here won't do much at all for you. The intake port for this area is Houston, so I'd say your best bet is either there or the Dallas area.
I ended up getting mine out of Ressler Toyota of Bozeman Montana dealing online or via phone. I specifically wanted a classic silver TEP with KDSS though, not something anyone in our area had, and would take 5 months on order (4Runners are only built in Japan). They had some of the best pricing in the country, but that doesn't count the cost of getting it home. It cost me about another $1100 to get my 4Runner shipped down to Tulsa, but it still ended up cheaper than going to a local dealer. Flying up there and driving back would have cost about the same, but being March some of the roads up that way are still closed for snow. The dealer is mostly an online dealer, so their online price is a no haggle price, and cheaper than just about everywhere else I could find. I negotiated everything via email, and phone, and paid by wire transfer from my local bank, so I never set foot in the dealership. Bob was a great guy to work with up there. But again I was looking for something specific, and there were only 3 results in my search.
 
cargurus.com tends to be very helpful IMO. You can compare your areas prices to the prices in other areas just my changing zipcodes or expanding the search area.

Just found a 4WD SR5 listed at 36,790 located at Autonation Toyota Scion South Austin. If you can get 6% off on this is brings it to 34.5k before TT&L (which isn't too bad, if you can work em harder i bet you could get to 34k or lower...)

Along with what everyone else has said don't bring the trade to the table until you settle on the out the door price of the vehicle you want to buy. If you are pressed about it, you can always say something like "i do not want to trade it" or "i'm not willing to trade unless i get a really good offer on it" (knowing already what a really good offer is and pressing for that).

let us know how it goes! :popcorn:
 
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Thanks, all, for the coaching! Now I have a game plan for the first part of the week, by telephone and email.

There are the interesting questions of "what is MSRP?" and "what is invoice?" I just spent a few hours checking out new T4Rs at a couple of dealerships (closed on Sundays in Texas, which is nice), and they all had about $1500 of "distributor installed options" and a "distributor suggested retail price." And the things ywere adding were high margin fluff (OK, aluminum running boards aren't "fluffy" but I'd have to remove them right away. They're $649 fluff). A glass break sensor? A $60 "ball mount?"

And a dealer-installed "Environmental package" for $995 which consists of ???

You know, this could be kinda fun if I can hide behind the telephone and email to make the deal.

Thanks again.
 
I researched and pitted dealers against dealers and paid $33,300 for mine in mid December last year. One dealer flat out told me he wouldn't match the price and the dealer was selling below invoice. The sticker was $37,065. That gave me lots of extra cash for the goodies!
 

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Thanks, all, for the coaching! Now I have a game plan for the first part of the week, by telephone and email.

There are the interesting questions of "what is MSRP?" and "what is invoice?" I just spent a few hours checking out new T4Rs at a couple of dealerships (closed on Sundays in Texas, which is nice), and they all had about $1500 of "distributor installed options" and a "distributor suggested retail price." And the things ywere adding were high margin fluff (OK, aluminum running boards aren't "fluffy" but I'd have to remove them right away. They're $649 fluff). A glass break sensor? A $60 "ball mount?"

And a dealer-installed "Environmental package" for $995 which consists of ???

You know, this could be kinda fun if I can hide behind the telephone and email to make the deal.

Thanks again.

I have purchased our last 3 cars over the phone/e-mail. Just tell them you want to talk with internet salesperson. Make sure you know what you want and how much you want to pay - turecar or something should give you an idea on price. Get the best price from one and then contact a few others so they can compete against each other.

Good luck and you can also have the dealer deliver the 4runner to your house with the paperwork so you don't even have to go to the dealership at all.
 
Thanks, all, for the coaching! Now I have a game plan for the first part of the week, by telephone and email.

There are the interesting questions of "what is MSRP?" and "what is invoice?" I just spent a few hours checking out new T4Rs at a couple of dealerships (closed on Sundays in Texas, which is nice), and they all had about $1500 of "distributor installed options" and a "distributor suggested retail price." And the things ywere adding were high margin fluff (OK, aluminum running boards aren't "fluffy" but I'd have to remove them right away. They're $649 fluff). A glass break sensor? A $60 "ball mount?"

And a dealer-installed "Environmental package" for $995 which consists of ???

You know, this could be kinda fun if I can hide behind the telephone and email to make the deal.

Thanks again.

There is only one real MSRP (M=manufacturers). It's on the factory window sticker aka the Monroney Label (Google it). Anything else has been fiddled with by the dealer to add margin. Stick to "well just take that off, I don't want/need it".
 

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