Need Help! Getting too much lift from 885's on Bilstein 5100's

11falline

New member
I have an issue with my 2007 4Runner. I just completed a lift install myself and am having a problem with the CV's binding at full droop and vibration at about 40+ mph.

Here are the specs of the lift:
-Bilstein 5100 shocks all around (lowest setting for the coil-overs up front)
-OME 885 Springs up front
-Pro Comp 57492 springs in the rear
-SPC adjustable upper control arms (new ball joints)
-New OEM lower control arms (new ball joints)
-New NAPA CV axles

I got it aligned and it seemed to make the vibration worse. The people that did the alignment only used the LCA adjustments to adjust the camber pushing them in which made my condition and CV angle even worse by bringing the hub even closer to the diff. I installed a 1" diff drop and it didn't seem to make a difference and possibly made the vibration worse. This setup is only supposed to give a 3" lift and it turned out more like 5" in front measuring 24" from center of hub to fender.

My questions are:
-Do you think you could use the upper control arm adjustment to align the wheels in a way that the hub is farthest out from the diff to improve CV angle?
-Could the A-arm bolts be released and re-torqued at a lower ride height to eliminate the CV joints binding at full droop?
-Can you think of reasons why this set up would yield so much lift in the front? and is there any way to reduce the lift up front with the equipment that is currently on the truck?

Thanks in advance
-jared
 
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[MENTION=110761]11falline[/MENTION]; Did you install your front Bilstein spring perches upside down? The collar should be between your shock body and springs when seated properly.
 
Thanks for the reply. I'm about 99% sure they are on the correct way but i will post some pics to confirm and possibly show people other issues that i'm not seeing.
 
Here is a quick pic for reference.
 

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What are the possible variable with the top of the strut which might affect ride height? This is passenger side. I have a spacer on drivers side.
yhu5adug.jpg
 
Why would I swap tires? To eliminate that as the vibration problem? I have had the wheels and tires on for 40k+ miles with no vibration. My main problem it that the CV's bind when the suspension is fully drooped. My ride height is just to high for some reason at 24" from center of hub to fender. No body lift.
 
Why would I swap tires? To eliminate that as the vibration problem? I have had the wheels and tires on for 40k+ miles with no vibration. My main problem it that the CV's bind when the suspension is fully drooped. My ride height is just to high for some reason at 24" from center of hub to fender. No body lift.

Obviously, toyotatech84 thought that you should rule out a tire/wheel imbalance issue first. It sounds, however, like you have already ruled it out.

When you say "too high", I'm not sure what you mean. I say this because, I have the Toytech Ultimate lift (which put my T4R at 3.5" over stock) and mine measures a 1/4" shy of 24" from center of hub to fender lip. The OME springs, if I am correct give about 3.5" over stock as well, so you are where you need to be in height.
 
They had the tags on them which said 885. Not sure how I would verify if that's what they actually are or not. Good ideas though keep them coming. Could someone with this setup measure the extended length when their truck is on the ground?

acactually are.
 
Obviously, toyotatech84 thought that you should rule out a tire/wheel imbalance issue first. It sounds, however, like you have already ruled it out.



When you say "too high", I'm not sure what you mean. I say this because, I have the Toytech Ultimate lift (which put my T4R at 3.5" over stock) and mine measures a 1/4" shy of 24" from center of hub to fender lip. The OME springs, if I am correct give about 3.5" over stock as well, so you are where you need to be in height.


Yes I don't believe the tires are an issue at all. Did you have any issues with the CV axles binding? Mine make a terrible noise when I go over a dip that drops the suspension and shutters in faster turns. Along with the vibration when driving above 40. They bind when the truck is jacked up and the wheel won't spin all the way around without raising the suspension.
 
Alright so wheels are good. No issues. That's a start. The struts are at the lowest setting and have the correct mount so it eliminates the install. I was out for a run and checked. Y set up. [email protected] mark with Fj springs. The control arms look fine (I've had a customer try to Install control arms on the wrong side) and they look like mine so I don't believe the lower control arms are an issue. That leaves possible the cv axle assemblies or mis tagged springs. I don't see how upper control arms can affect the lift. Just the ride quality.
 
I feel like its close. When I have it on jack stand and i put a hydraulic jack under one hub and lift it just a 1/2 inch or so the axles no longer bind. Are there any alignment tricks like putting the LCAs out as far as possible then using the adjustable UCA to even out the camber and caster. Has anyone else have ideas on that theory?
 
Obviously, toyotatech84 thought that you should rule out a tire/wheel imbalance issue first. It sounds, however, like you have already ruled it out.

When you say "too high", I'm not sure what you mean. I say this because, I have the Toytech Ultimate lift (which put my T4R at 3.5" over stock) and mine measures a 1/4" shy of 24" from center of hub to fender lip. The OME springs, if I am correct give about 3.5" over stock as well, so you are where you need to be in height.

[MENTION=89791]preacher35[/MENTION]; Did you install the lift yourself? I'm unsure of what possible errors in the installation (being that this was my first lift install) that could lead to having too much lift. Did you experience any vibrations? Could you post a pic from the front of your truck to compare CV angles? My outer CV boot actually touches the lower shock loop at full droop.
 
[MENTION=110761]11falline[/MENTION]; Not sure if this will make sense or is the issue but looking closely it seems that it may be simply an alignment issue. I did a little comparison as best I could and it seems your wheels are too forward and your thought on realigning it would bring the tires back to a more center position. Hope this helps.
 

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[MENTION=93193]morphious[/MENTION]; I think you may have a good point there morphious. When I installed the SPC UCA i put it at +2 degree setting cause I thought that was the stock setting. Doing a bit more research I see that it should be closer to the 2.5 - 4 range. (again, the generic, non 4x4 alignment place did not touch the UCA and told me caster was a little out, bastards didn't give me a print out either but it drove straight and that's about all the effort you get for $58) I can't picture how the caster change geometry would affect ride height that much but I might go in and move it to the 3.75 or 4 degree setting to see if that makes a difference. I will also probably try to use the adjustments on the LCA to bring the hub out from the diff as far as possible and use the UCA to adjust camber back as close as I can get it to 0.

I will try to get a lighter pic at the same angle as yours to compare further. Does anyone else know if caster change will affect the ride height? My main problem is still too much lift for the CV's.
Thanks guys

http://www.spcalignment.com/instructions/25480-INS_WEB.pdf

25480-INS_WEB.pdf
 
Are you lifting the side with the spacer that you said you have? If so your spacer is allowing your shock to droop too much causing bind. Remove the spacer.

I feel like its close. When I have it on jack stand and i put a hydraulic jack under one hub and lift it just a 1/2 inch or so the axles no longer bind. Are there any alignment tricks like putting the LCAs out as far as possible then using the adjustable UCA to even out the camber and caster. Has anyone else have ideas on that theory?
 
Are you lifting the side with the spacer that you said you have? If so your spacer is allowing your shock to droop too much causing bind. Remove the spacer.

I do have a .25" spacer on the divers side which I may end up having to remove...but I have the same problem of too much droop and CV binding on the passenger side as well which does not have a spacer.
 

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