Need help on fuel rail removal

[Pick_T4R]

1994 4Runner, 225k, 3.0VZE, auto, 4x4 - I've had it a few months and basically no history on it. I can see some work has been done but no records

I don't have a FSM; I've basically been doing this via YouTube videos...

I'm replacing my knock sensor/harness and have the plenum off but am not sure how to proceed with the fuel rail... any tips?

I'm going to do my timing belt/water pump/tensioner while I've got it torn down. Also working on an intermittent cold start issue so the coolant sensor is getting replaced ($20) as well as troubleshooting the cold start injector.

Anything else I should do while it's down? Am I going to shoot myself later if I don't do something (replace/have tested/cleaned) to the injectors?? It was running great before, just a knock sensor CEL and intermittent cold start issue...

Parts:
I bought a $13 knock sensor but have decided to return it and go factory OEM
Knock sensor harness (OEM)
Intake gaskets
EGR delete kit
OEM Timing belt kit (water pump, tensioner, bearings, gaskets)
Engine coolant temp sensor
-TBD-

 

[mholme]

Just flip the rail off to the passenger side of the engine. You don’t need to remove the lines.

Here’s an online manual you can follow. https://www.ether3al.com/runner90-95fsm/

You may want to do injector cleaning, orings or even have them sent out for service.

You can delete the EGR system if you want, but removing components is a hack, not a repair, any way you slice it. Don’t be surprised if you create more problems.

 

[Pick_T4R]

mholme,
THANK YOU!! I have been looking for an online version everywhere... This is exactly what I needed:
http://www.teamtoyota4x4.org/archiv...msour/1995/954runne/eg1/mfisyste/injector.pdf

As for the EGR delete, it was not intended as a hack to a repair. When I pulled the EGR - it was NASTY (as expected) and keeping that out of the intake would (I assume) be beneficial. Is that not the case??
https://www.yotashop.com/toyota-4runner-pickup-v6-3-0l-3vze-88-95-egr-block-off-plate-kit-kit-1074/

 

[mholme]

Well sure, if it’s not working and gummed up, but my preference is trying to fix things to correct factory functionality. I watch A LOT of the show “Wheeler Dealers”...Very rarely does an item get “scrapped”. They usually find a way to fix it properly.

Again, do what you want. People delete it all the time. Just wouldn’t be my first choice.

 

[RonJR]

Since you are that deep into the engine, I would consider adjusting the valves. Due to wear of the exhaust valve seats and faces, the valve clearance at the lifter continues to decrease until the valves eventually won't fully close. At that point the valves burn very rapidly and you'll be needing a full valve job.

The valves adjust with shims, and the process is a bit fussy. Do some internet searching on the procedure. They are adjusted cold.

 

[cap10]

If it was me. I would go ahead and pull your heads and do a valve job.

All you will have left to do is exhaust manifold bolts and head bolts and your heads will be free.
If I remember right, the worst part of that job is removing the exhaust crossover pipe and only because the bolts are hard to get to.

I would spray all the exhaust bolts with wd-40 and let them soak for 24 hours before removing them because they tend to bind due to the extra heat from the exhaust.

The only reason I am suggesting this is because you almost have the heads off now and with the mileage thats on the motor it wont be long before you are going to need it anyway.

I started working on 4runners about 6 years ago because a friend of mine bought a used runner and he blew a head gasket. He was not a mechanic so I offered to lend a hand. Since then I have worked or helped work on three more runners and they all had head gasket problems. For some reason the 3.0 motors seem to have a design problem that causes the #3 cyl (if I remember right) have a gasket failure.

Anyway, when I read your post and saw how many miles you had on the motor I thought I should put my two cents in and let you know what I would do. Good luck to you. Just take your time and have fun.

 

[Pick_T4R]

Thanks Cap10

 

[Pick_T4R]

Thoughts on injectors?

I'm going to do something with the injectors; just haven't decided what. Need to keep it under $200...

Anyone with experience have pros/cons for:
Testing/cleaning/rebuilding through WitchHunter: $22ea x 7 = 154 + s/h ~$165
Rebuilt Bosch $130
Amazon or eBay "OEM" injectors ~$80

Leaning toward the rebuilds but not opposed to the Witchhunter route if that's better. Not sure I want the cheap-o's unless someone can recommend them.

 

[Ahlem]

We've used a local injector service company called Performance Diesel to go through injectors on the 4runner and three BMW's. With a reputable place doing the work, it's a good value.