Need help with a couple of issues.

[Mellemel]

My coolant temps are running between 205 and 214F and will fluctuate in the space of a few minutes rising and falling and it's -15c outside. I'm checking these numbers on Torque Pro app on my phone.

I posted on this forum a few days ago about a possible HG issue, couldn't get to the shop to get it checked out yet. Here's some others stuff going on.

I am loosing coolant, I am having a brief cold start misfire, it seems to be steaming all the time, but not sweet smelling, and I do have mayonnaise under the oil cap and streaks on the dipstick but the oil is clean and so is the coolant. No overheating. I am reading the steam and mayo is quite normal in the winter and it is -10c / -20c here.

I put on a new rad cap(Napa) which holds pressure well, but I am still losing coolant. It doesn't seem to be getting pulled back into the overflow tank or emptying from it either. However, it does sometimes empty, but not everytime. Very erratic behaviour.

I replaced the bottom rad hose a few weeks ago, but there is still a drip of coolant on the clamp I cannot seem to stop it getting wet, (no drips or puddles under the car.) The top hose is hot, the bottom cold.

With cap off the coolant rises and falls every minute or so with a few bubbles too. I have burped the system quite a few times, thinking I still have a stubborn pocket of air trapped. The heater will not always blow hot and often just changes to cold air suddenly.Not fun in the middle of winter.

Before I get to the shop I am trying to diagnose this issue myself.

Is the Tstat faulty ?
Is the Rad blocked or something ? No idea of it's age.
New water pump 3 years ago.
Loads of trapped air ?

Is it really obvious that I have a blown HG ? Or is this just a coolant leak/rad/Tstat issue ? I'm at 250,000 miles !

If it's the HG I don't want to be spending $$ on a new rad possible water pump etc, the HG would cost me $1500 Cdn. The old girl isn't worth that even. Plus I need frame welding too.

Need to get the compression check done, just not been able to get it in yet, small village and very busy shop, best around for miles so could be end of the week yet!

Would love it to be just a new rad + Tstat and be fixed.

Any insights guys ?

 

[jaunty]

I replaced the bottom rad hose a few weeks ago, but there is still a drip of coolant on the clamp I cannot seem to stop it getting wet, (no drips or puddles under the car.)

Any insights guys ?

There wouldn't be drip or puddles because it'll only leak when heated/driving (pressurized system).
Check closely for tiny cracks leaks on the plastic parts of the radiator.
I had a micro crack in my tacoma that was hard to detect.
Dry everything off with the engine cold then as it warms start inspecting.

If you have air in there, you should try and get that out. Leave the cap off and let it warm up until it starts overflowing a bit.

Also check the overflow route, that part can get clogged up.

 

[JayRolla]

Swap the thermostat and make sure jiggle valve is in direct location. It may lower your temps. Fan clutch could be failing causing higher temps.

You could have your coolant analyzed for oil contaminants. Check plugs to see if wet. Leak down and compression check if still having issues.

 

[IBallEngineer]

My coolant temps are running between 205 and 214F and will fluctuate in the space of a few minutes rising and falling and it's -15c outside. I'm checking these numbers on Torque Pro app on my phone.

I posted on this forum a few days ago about a possible HG issue, couldn't get to the shop to get it checked out yet. Here's some others stuff going on.

I am loosing coolant, I am having a brief cold start misfire, it seems to be steaming all the time, but not sweet smelling, and I do have mayonnaise under the oil cap and streaks on the dipstick but the oil is clean and so is the coolant. No overheating. I am reading the steam and mayo is quite normal in the winter and it is -10c / -20c here.

I put on a new rad cap(Napa) which holds pressure well, but I am still losing coolant. It doesn't seem to be getting pulled back into the overflow tank or emptying from it either. However, it does sometimes empty, but not everytime. Very erratic behaviour.

I replaced the bottom rad hose a few weeks ago, but there is still a drip of coolant on the clamp I cannot seem to stop it getting wet, (no drips or puddles under the car.) The top hose is hot, the bottom cold.

With cap off the coolant rises and falls every minute or so with a few bubbles too. I have burped the system quite a few times, thinking I still have a stubborn pocket of air trapped. The heater will not always blow hot and often just changes to cold air suddenly.Not fun in the middle of winter.

Before I get to the shop I am trying to diagnose this issue myself.




Need to get the compression check done, just not been able to get it in yet, small village and very busy shop, best around for miles so could be end of the week yet!

Would love it to be just a new rad + Tstat and be fixed.

Any insights guys ?

You need to pressure test the cooling system, all this guessing will not help you. If you don't have the tools, take it in to the shop. Quit looking for a magic pill, there is none!

 

[JayRolla]

I forgot to add pressure test first thing. You can rent the coolant tester at local part store.

 

[Mellemel]

You need to pressure test the cooling system, all this guessing will not help you. If you don't have the tools, take it in to the shop. Quit looking for a magic pill, there is none!

Yeah I hear ya, I'm just stubborn I guess. It's getting to the point where I need the pro's to diagnose for me.

 

[Mellemel]

An update, the compression revealed cylinder numbers of 180, 150, 180, 180, 190, and 250. They think the 150 on #2 was due to a burnt or sticking valve. No HG issue they said. I'm not totally convinced yet. I ran some seafoam through the intake went for a blast, it does seem better, the idle is smoother and the coolant temp is down to 201F and stable. Time will tell over the next day or so. The coolant was leaking from the bottom rad hose and a small T connector at the back of the motor under the heater valve. Hoping that was the cause of the coolant loss.

 

[phattyduck]

Flip that thermostat so the jiggle valve is at 6 o'clock now that the leaks are fixed... that should get you back down in the the high 180's.

-Charlie

 

[reelamin]

Swap the thermostat and make sure jiggle valve is in direct location. It may lower your temps. Fan clutch could be failing causing higher temps.

You could have your coolant analyzed for oil contaminants. Check plugs to see if wet. Leak down and compression check if still having issues.

Send in the oil to Blackstone for analysis....25-30 bucks and fast turn around.

 

[reelamin]

Yeah I hear ya, I'm just stubborn I guess. It's getting to the point where I need the pro's to diagnose for me.

LOL...if you want to replace the entire motor, drive train, interior, and re-paint it....take it to a "pro". Yes there are good ones (I have one I use and trust him a lot) but way more the other way. I say sort through what people are telling you here, test it, then take it in if you need to.

As far as getting testing tools loaned or rented from a parts store...thats great for a lot of people....but not everyone has that option.