Need some guidance between E load and SL

[Stephencovar]

Hello everyone! Recently I let go of my 2019 TRD ORP that had KO2s and got a 2021 TRD Pro which I absolutely love! Anyways, I want to upgrade my tires. I’ve pretty much made up my mind and am going to go with the Toyo Open Country AT3 in 265/70/17. I am absolutely confused on wether I should go with the E1 or SL version. Here’s a bit of what I do:

•Daily driver. 90-95% on paved LA streets
•5-10% off road trails in the desert (Joshua Tree, Death Valley, etc…
•I’d be going on easy to moderate trails. I won’t be doing any rock crawling or Rubicon type trails.
•Will go camping but not really overlanding.

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. Also, I’m going crossed eyed on how much PSI I should but in either SL or E. From my understanding if I go with the SL I should just put whatever PSI is on the doorjam but if I go with E I should go higher, is that correct? If so, how much higher?

Thanks ahead of time for the help and guidance.

 

[mteolus]

No C-load in those tires? That would probably be optimal for you. SL should be ok, although I personally would be a little nervous in the desert. Rocks are usually a lot sharper. E is overkill but would still work. Your ride in town will be rougher and the added weight will affect gas mileage some. I run E-load (Hankook Dynapro) and I like them but I occasionally do some really rough trails. But in the city they are fine, just a little more feel when going over bumps. You get used to it though.

Regarding tire pressure, I have E-load and my tire pressure is just a tad more than recommended on the door. I can put more in them though if I tow.

 

[Muff Muff]

I have E-load Open Country AT3's, and do mostly city driving with occasional off-roading. They do have some mild road noise, but it's nothing compared to other AT tires. Just a tad louder than stock. I mainly got the E-load for peace of mind when off-roading, that I'd have a stiffer sidewall to protect from punctures. I took my 4Runner, with stock tires at the time, on a moderate trail (it was actually a foot trail that I managed to fit in) in the Ouachita National Forest last year and did incur some sidewall damage. That's what spurred me to get the E-loads instead of SL, and I can't imagine SL AT3's would be much better. All in all, I think the mathematical/physical detractions in vehicle performance from running a heavier tire (E-load) are outweighed by the benefits of having a stiffer sidewall when off-roading. My butt dyno hasn't noticed anything negative, in other words.

I run anywhere from 36 -- 40psi in them while on road, still trying to get the sweet spot figured out. Discount Tire always sets them at 36, which visibly looks too low, but rides comfortably. 40psi visibly looks properly inflated, but rides rather harshly. You could always do a chalk test to find the correct pressure to run.

 

[Stephencovar]

No C-load in those tires? That would probably be optimal for you. SL should be ok, although I personally would be a little nervous in the desert. Rocks are usually a lot sharper. E is overkill but would still work. Your ride in town will be rougher and the added weight will affect gas mileage some. I run E-load (Hankook Dynapro) and I like them but I occasionally do some really rough trails. But in the city they are fine, just a little more feel when going over bumps. You get used to it though.

Regarding tire pressure, I have E-load and my tire pressure is just a tad more than recommended on the door. I can put more in them though if I tow.

Unfortunately Toyo doesn’t make the AT3 in C load. The KO2s in the 2019 were C load and I felt like it was the perfect compromise. But with these Toyo’s, I’m so torn. Maybe I should look into something else…

 

[mteolus]

Unfortunately Toyo doesn’t make the AT3 in C load. The KO2s in the 2019 were C load and I felt like it was the perfect compromise. But with these Toyo’s, I’m so torn. Maybe I should look into something else…

My buddy has the Toyo Open Country SL on his Jeep Wrangler Rubicon. He's never had any problems, but doesn't do anything more than just driving up Jeep trails to get to 14er trailheads in Colorado.

My Hankook Dynapro AT2 RF11's E-load are very smooth on the road (quieter than the K02s), you just feel the bumps a little more than the C-load K02's I used to run (K02s got loud as they aged and I only got 39k out of them). The snow and wet traction is fantastic (the RF11's were new in 2020). 60k warranty as well. Only negative, made in China.

 

[Stephencovar]

I have E-load Open Country AT3's, and do mostly city driving with occasional off-roading. They do have some mild road noise, but it's nothing compared to other AT tires. Just a tad louder than stock. I mainly got the E-load for peace of mind when off-roading, that I'd have a stiffer sidewall to protect from punctures. I took my 4Runner, with stock tires at the time, on a moderate trail (it was actually a foot trail that I managed to fit in) in the Ouachita National Forest last year and did incur some sidewall damage. That's what spurred me to get the E-loads instead of SL, and I can't imagine SL AT3's would be much better. All in all, I think the mathematical/physical detractions in vehicle performance from running a heavier tire (E-load) are outweighed by the benefits of having a stiffer sidewall when off-roading. My butt dyno hasn't noticed anything negative, in other words.

I run anywhere from 36 -- 40psi in them while on road, still trying to get the sweet spot figured out. Discount Tire always sets them at 36, which visibly looks too low, but rides comfortably. 40psi visibly looks properly inflated, but rides rather harshly. You could always do a chalk test to find the correct pressure to run.

Thank you for sharing your experience. How has your MPG been affected with the E load (not that we get this rigs for stellar gas mileage lol).

 

[Muff Muff]

Thank you for sharing your experience. How has your MPG been affected with the E load (not that we get this rigs for stellar gas mileage lol).

In the city it's exactly the same as stock tires. On my trip last year (stock tires,) I think I got 22mpg round trip, from south Texas to south-central Arkansas. I haven't been on a lengthy road trip since getting the Toyos, but I wouldn't be surprised if there is at most a 1 -- 2mpg difference.

 

[Tuco S.]

Also, I’m going crossed eyed on how much PSI I should but in either SL or E. From my understanding if I go with the SL I should just put whatever PSI is on the doorjam but if I go with E I should go higher, is that correct? If so, how much higher?

This website is pretty helpful: Tire Pressure Calculator

OEM Size (P265/70R17 SL): 32 psi.
New Size (LT265/70R17 E): 44 psi.

This will just get you in the ballpark. The best way to dial it in for your particular truck is by doing a chalk test.

 

[Stephencovar]

This website is pretty helpful: Tire Pressure Calculator

OEM Size (P265/70R17 SL): 32 psi.
New Size (LT265/70R17 E): 44 psi.

This will just get you in the ballpark. The best way to dial it in for your particular truck is by doing a chalk test.

Wow! Thank you so much for sharing this link! It’s extremely helpful!

 

[Tuco S.]

Wow! Thank you so much for sharing this link! It’s extremely helpful!

No problem! Another handy tip is if you plan on chalking your tires, get the big sidewalk chalk if you can find it. The thin stuff can be difficult to handle if you have big fat fingers. I found the big ones at Hobby Lobby.

 

[Stephencovar]

This website is pretty helpful: Tire Pressure Calculator

OEM Size (P265/70R17 SL): 32 psi.
New Size (LT265/70R17 E): 44 psi.

This will just get you in the ballpark. The best way to dial it in for your particular truck is by doing a chalk test.

No problem! Another handy tip is if you plan on chalking your tires, get the big sidewalk chalk if you can find it. The thin stuff can be difficult to handle if you have big fat fingers. I found the big ones at Hobby Lobby.

#protip lol. Good call. I’m a big dude so this is helpful.

 

[Stephencovar]

How has everyone’s overall ride quality been with these tires?

 

[ahtoxa11]

How has everyone’s overall ride quality been with these tires?

Ride quality is highly subjective as people have different expectations and different tolerances for NVH and general noises and 'feel' when they drive.

Do you notice every new sound your rig makes? Do interior squeaks and rattles drive you crazy? If so, E load might not be for you unless you really need the durability in the sticks and don't drive much in town. Then again, you might not even notice much of a change or be OK with it.

Even on my former 2016 crew half ton the E loads rode noticeably stiffer, and its a larger vehicle than the 4runner. I prefer load C, which is a good compromise - adds durability over P rated but is not excessively heavy/stiff like a load E.

EDIT: keep in mind that load Es have to be run at higher pressures, which exacerbates the stiffness and ride issues. Load E has stifer sidewalls and they aren't designed to flex as much as P and C ratings. Thus, lower pressure will cause more sidewall deflection and thus more heat. Too much heat is not good, so that's why the pressures have to be higher.

 

[perf0rmance]

This website is pretty helpful: Tire Pressure Calculator

OEM Size (P265/70R17 SL): 32 psi.
New Size (LT265/70R17 E): 44 psi.

This will just get you in the ballpark. The best way to dial it in for your particular truck is by doing a chalk test.

Pretty spot on - I did the chalk test a few days ago just to recheck the pressures. I set mine at 38. Turns out that the site recommends 38 psi too!

OEM Size (P265/70R17 SL): 32 psi
New Size (LT285/70R17 C): 38 psi

 

[Kamalani Mahie]

Another pro tip: Do two chalk tests. One for your everyday driving and one for when the truck is fully loaded down for road trips. Then you know the PSI for both and can adjust in between for any variations in load. In all likelihood it won't be that big of a difference, but thousands of miles at a non-ideal tire pressure will net you some improper tire wear.

 

[Stephencovar]

Thank you so much everyone. I really appreciate the guidance and help. I’ve decked in:

Toyo Open Country AT3 265/70/17 E rating

The reason I’m going with the E rating is because I want the peace of mind knowing that if I do end up on a rocky trail out in the desert, my tires are less likely to have issues. 10 Ply should be plenty. I can’t wait to order and install them on my rig!

 

[perf0rmance]

Thank you so much everyone. I really appreciate the guidance and help. I’ve decked in:

Toyo Open Country AT3 265/70/17 E rating

The reason I’m going with the E rating is because I want the peace of mind knowing that if I do end up on a rocky trail out in the desert, my tires are less likely to have issues. 10 Ply should be plenty. I can’t wait to order and install them on my rig!

For what you described in the original post, I wouldn't recommend running load E. The weight penalty is ridiculous - even at load C, I don't think it's necessary for you with 90%-95% on paved roads. You're not planning on rock crawling either so you're good on that front.

Do you air down when you go on trails? If not, I'd recommend you stick with SL rated tires. Perhaps look into bigger tires - that's what most people gravitate towards initially.



Think about it this way.... if you do about 15k miles a year, are you really on technical trails for 1.5k miles (10%) or even at 750 miles (5%)? At a 3mpg penalty (20mpg down to 17mpg), that's about $400 a year at $3/gal. If you're going from 17mpg down to 14mpg, that's over $550 a year at $3/gal. What will 1 tire cost you?

So, tell me what you're current MPG is.. I'm pretty sure you'll lose more than 3mpg by going up to Load E tires.

 

[mteolus]

I do not regret my E-loads at all. I had SL from factory, switched to C load, now I have E load. I will never be going back. A little bit of difference when going over bumps but not much, I got used to it in a couple of days. I can't see any noticeable gas mileage difference. The biggest gas mileage difference occurred after my lift. Wind resistance is the biggest killer of gas mileage.

 

[Stephencovar]

For what you described in the original post, I wouldn't recommend running load E. The weight penalty is ridiculous - even at load C, I don't think it's necessary for you with 90%-95% on paved roads. You're not planning on rock crawling either so you're good on that front.

Do you air down when you go on trails? If not, I'd recommend you stick with SL rated tires. Perhaps look into bigger tires - that's what most people gravitate towards initially.



Think about it this way.... if you do about 15k miles a year, are you really on technical trails for 1.5k miles (10%) or even at 750 miles (5%)? At a 3mpg penalty (20mpg down to 17mpg), that's about $400 a year at $3/gal. If you're going from 17mpg down to 14mpg, that's over $550 a year at $3/gal. What will 1 tire cost you?

So, tell me what you're current MPG is.. I'm pretty sure you'll lose more than 3mpg by going up to Load E tires.

Wow! Thank you so much for your input. I love the financial aspect (I’m a personal finance nerd lol). Another reason why I’ve decided to go with the E load is because my rig currently has LT265/70/17 E BFG KO2s installed from the dealer with after market wheels. I didn’t want the wheels (crazy markup up) so the dealership is going to install the stock Terra Grapplers and TRD wheels as soon as they come in. I also realized that I didn’t mind the ride quality of the current setup. The E load aren’t that bad.

To your point, I won’t be rock crawling or doing extreme off roading at all. I will definitely go on easy to moderate off road trails though. I’m a photographer also so I enjoy going to remote locations. I guess going E load gives me more peace of mind. Don’t get me wrong, I’m still a little torn but I’m leaning towards E.

Here’s a picture of the wheels that are currently installed.

 

[Stephencovar]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk