Never ending ordeal

[Mutant138]

I don't know if I agree with that.

I have spent weeks reading about this problem and there are many many people who have tried different tires, rims, lift, etc and still have the problem.

Yeah man like I stated earlier. I think it's a design fault or manufacturing defect. Some people have it and others don't and there is little consistency other then symptoms. Fixes don't correlate either for the most part. Over all it seems to be a wheel balance issue. Some people seem to have it worse than others too. Lug centric wheels don't help the cause.

I definitely have it. But it's not to the point where I'm scrambling for answers and throwing money at it.


It's shitty but like the other member stated toyota prob gives zero ****s and will not work to fix it. Usually takes someone dying.

"A new car built by my company leaves somewhere traveling at 60 mph. The rear differential locks up. The car crashes and burns with everyone trapped inside. Now, should we initiate a recall? Take the number of vehicles in the field, A, multiply by the probable rate of failure, B, multiply by the average out-of-court settlement, C. A times B times C equals X. If X is less than the cost of a recall, we don't do one."

 

[_#1_]

Have you guys looked into all the steering components? Like steering knuckles, rods, rack n pinion, and whatever else you call them. Maybe something is just a bit loose or have too much play.

My old ass second hand 2010 trail never had any issue with steering wheel vibration at all luckily.

 

[pumacat24]

One thing I have not done yet is test the steering wheel/front-end vibration while in 4 wheel high.

Has anyone else with this issue tried it in 4wd?

What were your results?

 

[Mutant138]

One thing I have not done yet is test the steering wheel/front-end vibration while in 4 wheel high.

Has anyone else with this issue tried it in 4wd?

What were your results?

That might tell you if it's the needle bearing or not good idea. It would have to be done on pavement which won't hurt anything (just remember to engage below 55).

 

[TRDPRO_WA]

I would take it back to the dealer. If it doesn't get fixed I would pursue Lemon Law

 

[Hans Moleman]

Personally, I wouldn't go to anymore shops. Your 4R is under factory warranty and I would hand it off to Toyota. Talk with the sales manager and service manager and go from there. IMO huge time suck to keep taking it everywhere. Your dealer should offer you free rental or something and make them work for you. No way would I drop it at any shop with an intact warranty and 1900 miles on it.

Apparently the Toyota dealers don't deal with tire warranties. They tell to go deal with the tire manufacturer.

I had vibration problems with the stock Dunlop AT20 tires. The dealer balanced them like 4 times over the course of a year. Finally they decided the tires are bad but they don't tire warranties. They gave me the service record that states the tires are bad and need to be replaced. With that service record, I opened a claim with Goodyear and they approved it. They said I could pick any Dunlop or Goodyear tire so I got Goodyear Ultra Terrains installed. But now I have another set of problems that I don't want to derail this thread with.

 

[pumacat24]

I would take it back to the dealer. If it doesn't get fixed I would pursue Lemon Law

Unfortunately, that is easier said than actually done.

Plus, even though my TRD ORP did not start this until around 5k miles, I've driven 2 brand new TRD ORPs off the lot and they are both doing it and they are even worse than mine is!

I see you have a Pro? Looking forward to driving one this weekend and feeling the suspension.

 

[Jagamov]

Hey BCMUSA...Sorry to hear you are still having issues. I had hoped your last fix took care of it.

My question for the group, and sorry if I missed this somewhere....Does this only affect certain trims?....4x4, 4x2, KDSS, XREAS, none of the above...etc....

I have a new Limited and although I experience the "floatyness" of the front end, I have zero balance and vibration issues.

 

[TRDPRO_WA]

Unfortunately, that is easier said than actually done.

Plus, even though my TRD ORP did not start this until around 5k miles, I've driven 2 brand new TRD ORPs off the lot and they are both doing it and they are even worse than mine is!

I see you have a Pro? Looking forward to driving one this weekend and feeling the suspension.

Its easier said then done correct but if you look at the list of everything he has tried. Its time to start down that road with the dealer.

As for pro suspension its nice, handles like a dream off road. But is just to soft for me I already got rid of it and went with icons.

 

[BCMUSA]

Thanks everyone for the replies. I appreciate all the feedback.

I also found this:
Toyota 4Runner Questions - What will cause a steering wheel shimmy at 60-65mph other than tires, ... - CarGurus

Check out how many people with the same problem! It's crazy.

 

[Hans Moleman]

I wonder if Michelins will be better. Supposedly they make the "roundest" tires out of everyone else.

 

[BCMUSA]

I wonder if Michelins will be better. Supposedly they make the "roundest" tires out of everyone else.

At this point, I am willing to bet no.

Look at my road force numbers. Left tire is at 1lbs, the other at 4. That is VERY good, especially for an AT tire.

This was done at a local mom and pop shop who deals with FJ's, Tacos, and 4runners frequently. I trust him way more than the dealerships or big name tire shops.

Still having issues. I may take it back one last time to see what he thinks. I'm exhausted at this point.

 

[Daikon]

4 degrees seems like a lot for stock UCA.

 

[Jagamov]

Is there any way this is a lug nut torque issue? The factory wheels are lug centric correct?

Torque value seems a bit low in comparison (76 ft/lbs) to my Tundra and other vehicles I have had in the past.

BCMUSA, with all the tire changes, have you re-checked the torque just for shits and giggles?

 

[BCMUSA]

Is there any way this is a lug nut torque issue? The factory wheels are lug centric correct?

Torque value seems a bit low in comparison (76 ft/lbs) to my Tundra and other vehicles I have had in the past.

BCMUSA, with all the tire changes, have you re-checked the torque just for shits and giggles?

Yup. I torqued all 4 to 80ft/lbs.

 

[Mutant138]

4 degrees seems like a lot for stock UCA.

Good catch

Yeah idk why it's green on the print out it should be red for out of spec. Pretty sure it's something like 1.5 - 3 degrees is spec. I can't find the specs at a glance tho.

That would definitely explain the floaty front end. Not sure if that would contribute to wheel vibration. BUT be aware that this could be more then one issue at the same time. Maybe a bad alignment and balancing.

The fact that your wheels where fine but then you dropped pressure and got the issue again makes me think it was a "close enough" wheel jobber paired with a bad alignment.

@BMCUSA

 

[BCMUSA]

Good catch

Yeah idk why it's green on the print out it should be red for out of spec. Pretty sure it's something like 1.5 - 3 degrees is spec. I can't find the specs at a glance tho.

That would definitely explain the floaty front end. Not sure if that would contribute to wheel vibration. BUT be aware that this could be more then one issue at the same time. Maybe a bad alignment and balancing.

The fact that your wheels where fine but then you dropped pressure and got the issue again makes me think it was a "close enough" wheel jobber paired with a bad alignment.

@BMCUSA

Since I am going back to the shop to have them take a look, what numbers should I tell them to try and get to for alignment?

 

[SoCalRunner]

Have you checked the rotors?

I read somewhere that warped rotors can cause vibration in the steering wheel.

Though, I'm sure somebody would have noticed during all the balancing.

 

[nimby]

Good catch

Yeah idk why it's green on the print out it should be red for out of spec. Pretty sure it's something like 1.5 - 3 degrees is spec. I can't find the specs at a glance tho.

That would definitely explain the floaty front end. Not sure if that would contribute to wheel vibration. BUT be aware that this could be more then one issue at the same time. Maybe a bad alignment and balancing.

The fact that your wheels where fine but then you dropped pressure and got the issue again makes me think it was a "close enough" wheel jobber paired with a bad alignment.

@BMCUSA

A lot of people around here have thier caster pushed up to 4*. I do in my truck and it handles really well like this. Tracks great, stearing snaps back into place quickly and no wobbles.

What's interesting is BCM's alignment sheet says 4.5* is the upper end of caster spec whereas I thought it said 4* was the upper limit on my alignment sheet.

 

[Mutant138]

Since I am going back to the shop to have them take a look, what numbers should I tell them to try and get to for alignment?

I'm trying to find that out. Factory alignment specs are not popping up in my searches.

I read somewhere that warped rotors can cause vibration in the steering wheel.

Though, I'm sure somebody would have noticed during all the balancing.

That's not it. There would be alot more vibrations at different speeds and under breaking.