BCMUSA
New member
I am thinking he may have played with the settings on the computer to make it look like it's in the green, because I know technically 4* is not in the green for the specs Toyota calls for on this vehicle.
Never ending ordeal
- Thread starter BCMUSA
- Start date
I am thinking he may have played with the settings on the computer to make it look like it's in the green, because I know technically 4* is not in the green for the specs Toyota calls for on this vehicle.
mrblah
Senior Member
I had vibrating in my steering wheels when I went to 285 on stock trail wheels, that never went away. It only vibrated intermittently at highway speeds.
The only way I got rid of it was to replace the wheels (I was upgrading them anyways)
You may want to try and borrow someone else's extra set of wheels if you can.
The only way I got rid of it was to replace the wheels (I was upgrading them anyways)
You may want to try and borrow someone else's extra set of wheels if you can.
Daikon
Member
I have 4* but I also have camburg ball joint UCA's.
I'm not an expert but I think stock is around 1-2*. When you push it to 4* on stock UCA/LCA, i THINK that causes the bushings to 'bind'.
Again, not an expert but something worth looking into.
[MENTION=373173]BCMUSA[/MENTION]
are you using stock wheels with stock lug nuts that are seated correctly?
Mutant138
Banned
2.5-4 degrees is what you are shooting for and it's tire size dependant. Bigger the tires the closer to 4 you need to be. So if your running stock tire size it might be worth it to dial it back.
Ah yeah sorry I was having a hell of a time finding actual specs. It would appear that 2.5-4 or more is optimal for our trucks. Just seems kinda crazy to me but w.e.
Mutant138
Banned
I would guess stocks optimal caster is 2.5 at the bottom of the range due to the 265's.
Binding might cause some weird handling...
Last edited:
Mutant138
Banned
I've heard this a few times.
What stock wheels did you have? Let's be as specific as possible this thread has a ton of good stuff already let's keep the data flowing.
I have TRD OR wheels with stock tires and I have minor intermittent steering wheel vibrations above 59mph. Most of the time I chalk it up to minor road imperfections (ripples and other evenly distributed imperfections mucking with harmonics). When the road is butter smooth I either don't/haven't noticed any vibrations.
mrblah
Senior Member
2016 trail rims. Keep in mind though, I’m not an expert on suspension harmonics, etc. I had vibrations between 70 to 80 mph. Upgrading my wheels fixed my problem and I’ve since bought another set of wheels with no problems. So I chalked it up to my oem trail wheels.
I think the problem in my case was that the ko2s in 285 are really hard to balance and the heavy trail wheels didn’t make it any easier. That’s my hypothesis anyways .
Hans Moleman
New member
You bought your tires at Discount Tire / America's Tire right? They will keep letting you try on new tires until you find a set you like.
I got Goodyear Ultra Terrains from them. First time I got them they shook the truck like hell. I took it back for rebalance and it still was bad.
I took it too another America's Tire that has a road force balancer. The balance is better, no more violent shaking, but the steering wheel still wiggles, even worse than the stock Dunlops. The tech didn't note down the road force numbers even after I asked them to. :bash:
I noticed at America's Tire, they have mostly kids and they are rushing to do everything like they are trying to set some kind of speed record. I believe their priority is speed over quality. There is no consistency with their balance because every time they rebalance there are a different number of weights at completely different locations.
Tomorrow I'm taking my tires to be rebalanced at a mom & pop shop on my own dime that has a road force balancer. They also have the Haweka adapter which hopefully helps. I don't want to pay someone else to rebalance but I'm sick of wasting my time to keep bringing it in for rebalancing and risk scratching my new TRD Pro wheels. If this doesn't work I'm going to request a different set from America's Tire.
At this point, if I can get them to balance the tires to where there is a slight wiggle like stock wheels and tires, I'm going to live with it.
Last edited:
Charlievee
Senior Member
Bearings? Bent rim?
Jetboy
New member
The best solution is not easy. And Toyota won't do it. That's frustrating. The proper fix is to increase the spring rate on the internal feedback bushing in the steering rack. Lexis will replace the spring under a TSB but Toyota will not. On earlier 4runner models it was accessible but now it requires removing three steering rack. Anyway, if you want a permanent fix - that's the best way. Maybe your dealer would do the work?
Bulletin(L-SB-0020-12)
Bulletin(L-SB-0020-12)
nimby
New member
Just to share my experience:
I have an SR5P. Had the 60mph shimmy when it was stock.
Replaced the SR5 wheels with Trail wheels and still had the shimmy.
I put Eibach adjustable shocks on at the 1.6" setting and got an alignment where I pushed the caster up to 4*. Still had the shimmy.
Replaced the stock tires with Firestone Destination A/Ts (285's) and the shimmy went away.
Drives as smooth as can be now and tracks really nicely.
Mutant138
Banned
Fuuuk. That's the best not good news we have gotten.
This seems very much like something they should be fixing do we really just have to take it up the a$$?
Glad my issue isn't as bad as others.
L-SB-0020-12 March 29, 2012
Steering Wheel Flutter at Highway Speeds
Category Steering
Section Steering Gear/Linkage Market USA
Applicability YEAR(S) MODEL(S) ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
2010 – 2012 GX460
Introduction
Some vehicles may exhibit a steering flutter condition while driven at approximately 55 – 70 mph. In some cases, this concern is caused by a wheel imbalance or RFV (Radial Force Variation) that is out of range. If the tire and wheel assembly is satisfactory, a steering control valve preload spring is available to reduce the steering flutter felt through the steering wheel.
Steering Flutter | IH8MUD Forum
Last edited:
Mutant138
Banned
Found a pdf of the install. Not the end of the world but one thing caught my eye that makes my eyes roll to the back of my head.
After you get to the part where the f'in rack is out and on the bench ready for the spring there is a note... "Several springs may need to be tried before the desired preload is achieved."
Do they seriously mean you might have to keep pulling your rack out?! Jesus christ. Toyota needs to step the f up.
Edit: Helps if i read the whole thing. You test it before putting it back in. They have a chart with all the spring weights and part #'s.
https://www.fjcruiserforums.com/for...ring-wheel-shake-please-read-l-sb-0020-12.pdf
[MENTION=373173]BCMUSA[/MENTION] prob not the answer you were looking for but at least you can figure out what your next move is. I bet you would feel alot better you hooked me up with a 14.5" RECCE. Just say'in dawwwg.
After you get to the part where the f'in rack is out and on the bench ready for the spring there is a note... "Several springs may need to be tried before the desired preload is achieved."
Do they seriously mean you might have to keep pulling your rack out?! Jesus christ.
Edit: Helps if i read the whole thing. You test it before putting it back in. They have a chart with all the spring weights and part #'s.
https://www.fjcruiserforums.com/for...ring-wheel-shake-please-read-l-sb-0020-12.pdf
[MENTION=373173]BCMUSA[/MENTION] prob not the answer you were looking for but at least you can figure out what your next move is. I bet you would feel alot better you hooked me up with a 14.5" RECCE. Just say'in dawwwg.
Last edited:
Charlievee
Senior Member
So, how hard is it to drop the steering rack? Not like the toys are hard to work on.
Charlievee
Senior Member
I had this issue when i first picked up the TuRD. Tire pressure was all over the place. Pulled a dealer installed screw out of one of the rear tires and adjusted tire pressure using a compressor with a moisture catch. All air was adjusted to 33lbs exact on all 4 corners. Have not had the issue since. On a side note, make sure its not the road. I drive a section of road every day to work about 15 miles. I would swear that my tires are out of balance, but its the road.
BCMUSA
New member
So before leaving work I pumped the tires back up to 36 cold and drove it home.
It felt a lot better. It barely wobbled, if any at all. Very strange.
Keep in mind it was 105 when I left work though, a lot cooler than when I tested it this morning at 32psi cold.
I will keep them at 36 for now. My only concern is that keeping it at 36 may cause the center of the tires to wear faster than the edges.
The swaying was still there however and the crazy winds today didn't help.
I have a long trip to California this weekend and will really get to put these tires to the test. Maybe a little breaking in the tires will help?
You guys think having the tires at 36 cold (gets to about 39 hot) will be an issue?
If the vibrations/wobble stays like it is now having them at 36, then I'll just deal with the slightly harsher ride and leave at that PSI.
I will however still have to tackle the swaying/alignment when I get back.
It felt a lot better. It barely wobbled, if any at all. Very strange.
Keep in mind it was 105 when I left work though, a lot cooler than when I tested it this morning at 32psi cold.
I will keep them at 36 for now. My only concern is that keeping it at 36 may cause the center of the tires to wear faster than the edges.
The swaying was still there however and the crazy winds today didn't help.
I have a long trip to California this weekend and will really get to put these tires to the test. Maybe a little breaking in the tires will help?
You guys think having the tires at 36 cold (gets to about 39 hot) will be an issue?
If the vibrations/wobble stays like it is now having them at 36, then I'll just deal with the slightly harsher ride and leave at that PSI.
I will however still have to tackle the swaying/alignment when I get back.
Last edited:
progress4m
Member
To OP: Your alignment looks very good, just FYI: the ranges you have are not for 5th gen 4Runner, but your measurements are in spec. And considering everything you have done there should be no issues you are experiencing…
For the reference I have 2013 Trail (with KDSS), with lift and same tires as yours… truck has 67 k on the odometer and tires have about 40K –and that truck is smooth as butter…
Here is what I would try first: change your “toe” so the tires are pointing “in” very so slightly and since you mentioned your truck pulls to the right I would make right front wheel “toe in” to the left… you can do it yourself by adjusting right Tie Rod- I would do half of the turn and see if that will make a difference, it is very simple to do (10 Minutes job at a most) and you can always turn it back at any time.
Another possibility is wheel (s)… When I had my 4th gen (I was a second on owner) I have also had to chase vibration issue, the culprit was “bent” rim… you could not see it and tires would balanced, however the issue was resolved only after I have replaced that rim… I know on the new truck chance of the bad rim is small, but you never know.
Hope that helps.
For the reference I have 2013 Trail (with KDSS), with lift and same tires as yours… truck has 67 k on the odometer and tires have about 40K –and that truck is smooth as butter…
Here is what I would try first: change your “toe” so the tires are pointing “in” very so slightly and since you mentioned your truck pulls to the right I would make right front wheel “toe in” to the left… you can do it yourself by adjusting right Tie Rod- I would do half of the turn and see if that will make a difference, it is very simple to do (10 Minutes job at a most) and you can always turn it back at any time.
Another possibility is wheel (s)… When I had my 4th gen (I was a second on owner) I have also had to chase vibration issue, the culprit was “bent” rim… you could not see it and tires would balanced, however the issue was resolved only after I have replaced that rim… I know on the new truck chance of the bad rim is small, but you never know.
Hope that helps.
BCMUSA
New member
Thank you.
As far as alignment goes, I went based on many recommendations here, which said to get caster to 4*, so that's what I told the tech.
The tech agreed it would help also.
This tech deals with many FJs, Tacomas, and 4runners, so I am thinking its the truck, not the tech. He comes very highly recommended by the local 4runner community.
I will have to take it back to him and get another opinion and bring up what you're saying here.
Daikon
Member
If you have money to spare, I would say to set the caster to something lower. I am really amazed that you're able to get 4* with stock UCA.
