New aftermarket stereo- rear speaker power problem

[MENTION=91673]MtnT4R[/MENTION]

What speaker model do you have?

Are they installed now? (I assume yes)

If they are connected to the factory amp then cut that amp out ASAP. Probably making things worse than just straight head unit.

The lower wattage shouldn't damage them as long as you don't blast the volume. Keep it medium to low until you can put the real amp in.

That alpine universal powerpack is great.
 
Ohhh, so the kenwood does have a separate wire for the antenna?

What I'm trying to say is that both the Alpine and Kenwood harnesses have the same Std wires. They both have an antenna wire and a remote turn on wires.

They have the same wires but each head unit produces a different result. It isn't just me, it is many other people as well.
 
[MENTION=91673]MtnT4R[/MENTION]

What speaker model do you have?

Are they installed now? (I assume yes)

If they are connected to the factory amp then cut that amp out ASAP. Probably making things worse than just straight head unit.

The lower wattage shouldn't damage them as long as you don't blast the volume. Keep it medium to low until you can put the real amp in.

That alpine universal powerpack is great.

I'm 85% certain the factory amp was yanked out when the previous owner put in the Alpine unit but I'll double check tomorrow morning. The Kenwood has a Mosfet 50x4 amp...is that still underpowered enough to damage the speakers? Here are the links to what I just installed:

Front Components
JL Audio C2650 Evolution™ C2 Series 6-3/4" component speaker system at Crutchfield.com

Rear Speakers
JL Audio C2-400X Evolution™ Series 4" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield.com


aaand here is what I have planned for next spring:

Speaker Amp
Rockford Fosgate Prime R400-4D 4-channel car amplifier — 75 watts RMS x 4 at Crutchfield.com

Sub Amp
Sony XM-GS100 Mono subwoofer amplifier — 600 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms at Crutchfield.com

Subs
JL Audio CS212LG-TW1 PowerWedge? sealed enclosure with two 12" TW1 subwoofers at Crutchfield.com
 
That Kenwood isn't 50x4 RMS, that is the peak.

I bet if you look it up you'll find it is like 15 or 20 W RMS.

Those JL are supposed to be great. Just take it easy on the volume and you'll be fine until spring.

BTW I wouldn't run a $200 Sony amp with JL sub's. Better to buy a used JL or Alpine amp if you don't have cash for a brand new one. Not to sound like a bigot but I don't think Sony even makes an Amp that is in the same class of quality as JL or Alpine.

A $200 amp to drive $600 worth of sub's. It would probably sound better if you spent the $800 about 50/50 on amps and sub's.

Have you considered just getting a single sealed 10" or 12" ?

I've had dual 12s and now I have a single 10" Alpine Type R and I love it. I don't rock the block but who cares. I have more than enough base for any 30 year old.

I'm willing to speculate a single JL 12 with a proper 400W x 1 RMS amp would sound better than that Sony amp with the 2 JLs. Of course I don't know for sure. I've owned one Sony amp, back in HSa long time ago. I switched to MTX then Alpine and it's been a step up each time.
 
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That Kenwood isn't 50x4 RMS, that is the peak.

I bet if you look it up you'll find it is like 15 or 20 W RMS.

Those JL are supposed to be great. Just take it easy on the volume and you'll be fine until spring.

BTW I wouldn't run a $200 Sony amp with JL sub's. Better to buy a used JL or Alpine amp if you don't have cash for a brand new one. Not to sound like a bigot but I don't think Sony even makes an Amp that is in the same class of quality as JL or Alpine.

A $200 amp to drive $600 worth of sub's. It would probably sound better if you spent the $800 about 50/50 on amps and sub's.

Have you considered just getting a single sealed 10" or 12" ?

I've had dual 12s and now I have a single 10" Alpine Type R and I love it. I don't rock the block but who cares. I have more than enough base for any 30 year old.

I'm willing to speculate a single JL 12 with a proper 400W x 1 RMS amp would sound better than that Sony amp with the 2 JLs. Of course I don't know for sure. I've owned one Sony amp, back in HSa long time ago. I switched to MTX then Alpine and it's been a step up each time.

Interesting info. I'm not set on the Sony at all, it was just more of a quick choice to figure out my budget- I was going to ask a Crutchfield tech for recommendations based on my final sub choice.

I've had the same set of 10" MTX subs since high school and they are toast. The range of the 10s was great but I was hoping for a little more low end with 12s. Don't usually blast my music but I do like to have the option to crank the system a bit.

I might end up going with a single 12- I really want to build a high quality system with top end components instead of scrounging for deals like I've done in the past so I'm definitely open to different options and advice.

The JLs I just put in sound fantastic. Incredibly clear mids and highs and I'm hearing details to familiar tracks that I've never noticed before, but you can definitely tell they aren't pushing tunes as well as they could with a good amp.

Is there anything I'm missing that you would recommend?
 
I'm 85% certain the factory amp was yanked out when the previous owner put in the Alpine unit but I'll double check tomorrow morning. The Kenwood has a Mosfet 50x4 amp...is that still underpowered enough to damage the speakers? Here are the links to what I just installed:

Front Components
JL Audio C2650 Evolution™ C2 Series 6-3/4" component speaker system at Crutchfield.com

Rear Speakers
JL Audio C2-400X Evolution™ Series 4" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield.com


aaand here is what I have planned for next spring:

Speaker Amp
Rockford Fosgate Prime R400-4D 4-channel car amplifier — 75 watts RMS x 4 at Crutchfield.com

Sub Amp
Sony XM-GS100 Mono subwoofer amplifier — 600 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms at Crutchfield.com

Subs
JL Audio CS212LG-TW1 PowerWedge? sealed enclosure with two 12" TW1 subwoofers at Crutchfield.com

PLEASE don't run those beautiful JL Audios off the head unit. It's only giving you 20wpc. Don't but a Sony amp either, I melted mine right after the 1 year warranty was up. They don't call them "Explode" for nothing! Plus they sound bright. My JL Audio Amp has been rockin' my truck since 2003.

Crutchfield is expensive. Shop around. PartsExpress dot com has good deals.
 
That Kenwood isn't 50x4 RMS, that is the peak.

I bet if you look it up you'll find it is like 15 or 20 W RMS.

Those JL are supposed to be great. Just take it easy on the volume and you'll be fine until spring.

BTW I wouldn't run a $200 Sony amp with JL sub's. Better to buy a used JL or Alpine amp if you don't have cash for a brand new one. Not to sound like a bigot but I don't think Sony even makes an Amp that is in the same class of quality as JL or Alpine.

A $200 amp to drive $600 worth of sub's. It would probably sound better if you spent the $800 about 50/50 on amps and sub's.

Have you considered just getting a single sealed 10" or 12" ?

I've had dual 12s and now I have a single 10" Alpine Type R and I love it. I don't rock the block but who cares. I have more than enough base for any 30 year old.

I'm willing to speculate a single JL 12 with a proper 400W x 1 RMS amp would sound better than that Sony amp with the 2 JLs. Of course I don't know for sure. I've owned one Sony amp, back in HSa long time ago. I switched to MTX then Alpine and it's been a step up each time.

Totally agree, 1 - 12" sub will be plenty.
 
Interesting info. I'm not set on the Sony at all, it was just more of a quick choice to figure out my budget- I was going to ask a Crutchfield tech for recommendations based on my final sub choice.

I've had the same set of 10" MTX subs since high school and they are toast. The range of the 10s was great but I was hoping for a little more low end with 12s. Don't usually blast my music but I do like to have the option to crank the system a bit.

I might end up going with a single 12- I really want to build a high quality system with top end components instead of scrounging for deals like I've done in the past so I'm definitely open to different options and advice.

The JLs I just put in sound fantastic. Incredibly clear mids and highs and I'm hearing details to familiar tracks that I've never noticed before, but you can definitely tell they aren't pushing tunes as well as they could with a good amp.

Is there anything I'm missing that you would recommend?

I have JL Audio's C2's (6 3/4 front-6x9's rear-WO 10"Sub,same 6 channel amp that's in the T4R) all around in my Accord EX-L Coupe & they are amazing.
 
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I have JL Audio's C2's (6 3/4 front-6x9's rear-WO 10"Sub,same 6 channel amp that's in the T4R) all around in my Accord EX-L Coupe & they are amazing.

Would a 6 channel amp make more sense if I know I want to run subs in the future? The plan as of now is to build a cargo box into the rear compartment with one or two subs and amps right against the rear seats.
 
Ok so I looked at the specs after you all had me worrying I was gonna blow my beautiful new speakers:
JL components run 15-100 RMS
JL coaxials run 10-50 RMS
Kenwood receiver puts out 22 RMS

So as long as I keep the volume away from any sort of distortion I should be fine right? I would like to put in an amp this winter if I have access to a garage, but i really want to rewire all 4 doors at the same time and put in some sound deadening, and to do it all correctly and not rush it should really be done in warmer weather
 
This^^ If your head unit only has one remote/ power antennae wire which is usually the blue/white one and that only sends a signal out when the radio is on then it will only power the amp when the radio is on. My HU sends power out when it's powered on so it's not a problem. I put one of those touch switches on the antennae wire so I can can control raising and lowering it and connect the amp remote before the switch.
A switch is a brilliant idea! But I'm leaning toward just doing the Tacoma whip mod instead and being done with the power antenna altogether.
 
So as long as I keep the volume away from any sort of distortion I should be fine right?

Yep, just keep the volume at medium and below and I would say there is no risk to your speakers.
 
Would a 6 channel amp make more sense if I know I want to run subs in the future? The plan as of now is to build a cargo box into the rear compartment with one or two subs and amps right against the rear seats.

I bought the 6 channel so I could bridge channels 5 & 6 to run the sub. Back then I knew I would be upgrading from the JL 10" WO to the 12" W2. The 10" went into my then Corolla & now the Honda.
If I was going to run 2 subs I would get an additional amp.
 
Thanks for the fast input!
[MENTION=116387]Unner[/MENTION], you da man. I spent a little too much time staring at the wiring last night, think I was a little too close to the problem. For whatever reason the default setting on this Kenwood is BT: front speakers only. It took a little digging through the obscure menu options but you were right on the money. This is my 4th Bluetooth receiver, but none of the others had that setting. Strange, but of course that would be the issue, right?

I wish I had seen this earlier! Spent the morning rewiring my kenwood receiver without any luck and then I found your post. Thanks so much! I now have a full working system. :banana:
 
I wish I had seen this earlier! Spent the morning rewiring my kenwood receiver without any luck and then I found your post. Thanks so much! I now have a full working system. :banana:

Glad this thread helped! Finding faults in wiring a sound system is usually a HUGE pain in the ass. Time for some good tunes!
 
Holy thread resurrection. This forum is great. I have half of my interior torn apart trying to figure out why my rear speakers aren’t working. My runner already had a pioneer installed when I got it and it sounded horrible. While messing with the settings I noticed the rear speakers weren’t working. Damn it. I was supposed to be cutting my inner fender to make room for tires but this was annoying and had to be fixed. After checking all wires and connections at the speakers and back of the head unit I decidedly to do a search on here and found out it was a setting in the initial setup menu. Easy fix once I found the manual for the radio. Now I gotta put my dash and rear door panels back together.
 

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