New CV axles help please

[Dirtrider216]

I just had my brakes done at a shop and the mechanic said that they noticed my cvs are leaking a little bit. I'm new to ifs systems(my previous vehicle was a ford superduty). I'm mechanically inclined enough that I can replace the cv on my own but upon looking online I'm confused about what to order. Do I need the half shaft like they sell on rock auto for $60 or is there a full axle I need to be looking for? I've seen on here that Toyota sometimes uses napa replacement axles, but does anybody know the specific manufacturer name of the oem cv?
Also, being that I have the v8 limited with full time 4wd is it safe for me to be driving with my cvs leaking until I get them replaced? Most of my driving is town driving with a range of about 25 miles

 

[SAC-CA-Runner]

I just had my brakes done at a shop and the mechanic said that they noticed my cvs are leaking a little bit. I'm new to ifs systems(my previous vehicle was a ford superduty). I'm mechanically inclined enough that I can replace the cv on my own but upon looking online I'm confused about what to order. Do I need the half shaft like they sell on rock auto for $60 or is there a full axle I need to be looking for? I've seen on here that Toyota sometimes uses napa replacement axles, but does anybody know the specific manufacturer name of the oem cv?
Also, being that I have the v8 limited with full time 4wd is it safe for me to be driving with my cvs leaking until I get them replaced? Most of my driving is town driving with a range of about 25 miles

I have a V8 full time and I drove around with my outer front CV leaking for a couple of weeks. I tried to avoid real bad dirt situations or offroading and when I pulled it off it still looked great. Swapping in an axle is VERY easy on these trucks. Same with just doing the boots. Took me less than an hour.

There is a mod that you can do to keep the inner portion of the old boot on so it creates a second seal and stretches the boot to keep it from bunching. I did this but I bought worm style clamps and it hit my lower Icon shock and tweaked my boot. So I took off the old boot end and all is well. So if you have aftermarket shocks and add worm style clamps...don't do that mod.

Just do the boots and be done with it. Rock Auto has the Moog's, but you'll need to buy the 2005 model year (same) as it doesn't show up for 2006-2008

 

[alia176]

I've done writeups with pics on CV axles and boots (oem and non-oem). There are subtleties that one needs to be aware of when it comes to axles and boots.

 

[MSRP.]

I was told to not replace them until they click, especially since I have the OEM axles which are reportedly superior to all but the best of aftermarket replacements.

Been driving a full year since leaking, probably 6,000 miles, still not clicking, and it's pretty much bone dry..

 

[duffdog]

I would just get new factory boots and install them on the factory CV's. That way you are keeping the high quality factory parts. The aftermarket CV's are 99% junk anyways.

 

[flipflopnfly]

I went with CVJ remanufactured OEM axles. Boots were leaking when I bought the '08 in March at 97k miles, grease sprayed all over the front suspension. Since it was new to me I figured do it right with OEM reman'd.

I researched replacing the axles/boots myself and heard CVJ reman'd is a good way to go. I took it into Groove Toyota for a full transmission flush and asked them what they use when replacing CV axles, they said CVJ.

 

[metramm]

I second using CVJ. I had to replace both axles on mine as they were torn and leaking. they were not clicking when driving, but after pulling them, they were definetly gone.

I ordered the CVJs with the OEM toyota boot kit (+60 a side). total was 400 after shipping for the axles. i think it is worth it as I don't really want to be replacing them again anytime soon.

As stated above, replacement is easy on our trucks. just make sure to have a pair of inner wheel seals just in case one is torn when you are removing the axle.

Mine was and it took some running around to get the proper seal.

good luck!

 

[svana]

I'd recommend just swapping out the CV altogether. I went with NAPA's Altrom (I think?) brand - they've probably renamed it by now, but there's a thread on here confirming that they were the same manufacturer that the OEM's are and come with a lifetime warranty from NAPA (which I have used more than once). The price for those is not too much more than the boot alone and you get a whole new setup which is much easier to deal with than swapping on a new boot IMO.

 

[duffdog]

I'd recommend just swapping out the CV altogether. I went with NAPA's Altrom (I think?) brand - they've probably renamed it by now, but there's a thread on here confirming that they were the same manufacturer that the OEM's are and come with a lifetime warranty from NAPA (which I have used more than once). The price for those is not too much more than the boot alone and you get a whole new setup which is much easier to deal with than swapping on a new boot IMO.

Where is this thread? I would like to see this

 

[TowMeOut]

Where are they leaking?? After my meager lift (1" or so) both outer CVs started leaking where they touch the axle shaft. I wasn't about to replace good shafts but I bought some new clamps and got ready to put them on.

I then read a few posts where people tried that fix and the new clamps kind of pinched/cut through the old boot. So....the clamps are still in the toolbox but I wrapped the axle/boot area with some self-fusing silicone tape ("Rescue" tape brand I think). The stuff only sticks to itself so it forms kind of a pressure collar (almost like heat shrink tubing). I threw a couple of zip-ties over the top "just in case". So far so good....it's been a couple of months and they're still holding strong.

So....pressure wash the area get them good and clean. Maybe hit them with some brake cleaner if they're really gunked up. Wrap with tape, maybe add a zip-tie and you're done.....10-minute job.

 

[m85476585]

Where are they leaking?? After my meager lift (1" or so) both outer CVs started leaking where they touch the axle shaft. I wasn't about to replace good shafts but I bought some new clamps and got ready to put them on.

I then read a few posts where people tried that fix and the new clamps kind of pinched/cut through the old boot. So....the clamps are still in the toolbox but I wrapped the axle/boot area with some self-fusing silicone tape ("Rescue" tape brand I think). The stuff only sticks to itself so it forms kind of a pressure collar (almost like heat shrink tubing). I threw a couple of zip-ties over the top "just in case". So far so good....it's been a couple of months and they're still holding strong.

So....pressure wash the area get them good and clean. Maybe hit them with some brake cleaner if they're really gunked up. Wrap with tape, maybe add a zip-tie and you're done.....10-minute job.

Yes, for most of these minor leaks the boot is not actually torn. It's just worn where it seals onto the axle. I fixed mine with a hose clamp last year, but I haven't looked at it since then. I should probably check on that. I used hose clamps with slightly rounded edges, but they could still cut the boot eventually.

Replacing the boot and grease sounds like an extremely messy job, which is why most people just replace the whole CV. CVJ doesn't use Toyota OEM boots mostly, but I think you can special order with those for extra cost. I think one of the two boots on each CV axle from Toyota is a special polymer, and the other is rubber. Each part also uses a different kind of grease, and there are a couple types of hose clamps. It's almost like two independent teams designed each part, and they have a running bet at the office to see which side has fewer failures.

Also, I've read that the CVs will continue to last a long time after they start leaking grease until they start clicking. Maybe 10s of thousands of miles.

 

[OzarkRunner]

Add another vote for CVJ (I'd recommend getting the OEM style outer boot upgrade). When mine started leaking, I probably put an additional 5k miles on them and never heard them start to click.

 

[svana]

Where is this thread? I would like to see this

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/118912-if-you-have-used-napa-cv-axles-please-reply.html

Around post 20.

 

[flipflopnfly]

Yes, for most of these minor leaks the boot is not actually torn. It's just worn where it seals onto the axle. I fixed mine with a hose clamp last year, but I haven't looked at it since then. I should probably check on that. I used hose clamps with slightly rounded edges, but they could still cut the boot eventually.

Replacing the boot and grease sounds like an extremely messy job, which is why most people just replace the whole CV. CVJ doesn't use Toyota OEM boots mostly, but I think you can special order with those for extra cost. I think one of the two boots on each CV axle from Toyota is a special polymer, and the other is rubber. Each part also uses a different kind of grease, and there are a couple types of hose clamps. It's almost like two independent teams designed each part, and they have a running bet at the office to see which side has fewer failures.

Also, I've read that the CVs will continue to last a long time after they start leaking grease until they start clicking. Maybe 10s of thousands of miles.

I did the rounded-side hose clamp thing on my factory clamped leakers and stock XREAS, but there was so much grease sprayed all over it was hard to spot even after cleaning if there was a hole in the boots.

Being inexperienced with CV's my mistake maybe was trying to inject replacement grease into the boots via a grease injection needle. Could have exacerbated existing holes or opened new ones, either way still had grease spray. So reman'd CVJ axle assemblies.

I'll find out how they hold up with a 2.75" lift and no diff drop. CV angles look good to me at 2.75", the pic is in the garage on level ground.