New member - need help!!!! - p304 misfire

[Capncam]

Capncam - which brand bi-hex did you use? I felt like even with the new head bolts it was extremely difficult to get it fully seated and removing it was just as difficult.

I used assembly lube in the head on anything that moves. Then I added at a least a quart of oil to each head as well I think. No fogging oil on the piston liner walls though.

I had to crank several times to get it to fire. Found out I missed a connection and a grounding wire and then had to crank some more after that. I'm sure it was enough to get the oil moved around.

The engine ran like crap at first, but after driving it for a while it sorted itself out.

I don't recall anything about the transmission lines or remember losing any trans fluid so I didn't add any.

I bought cta tools bihex off Amazon. Was very hard to seat on old oem
Bolts, but after I stuffed a thin rag in with the tool into the sockets I cleaned out old gunk that was keeping it from seating correctly. I actually couldn’t get it to seat at all in the fel-pro aftermarket bolts I purchased! I went and bought a trisquare and that was the perfect fit for the felpros.

 

[Capncam]

Couple things I wanted to add:

This link is for a very in-depth rebuild write up in the 2007 fsm. Skip past rotating assembly and straight to heads. Also mentions installing the water pump within 15 minutes of installing the front cover-don’t know why but I didn’t see that in the other fsm. Also where to put seal packing on oil pan.
http://4runnerclub.com/i/4r_files/f...fe/enginemechanical/engineunit_reassembly.pdf

Lucas Assembly lube is the only one I found without moly-graphite for the cams and lobes etc. Apparently most assembly lubes with moly-graphite are not good for top end, and can even cause scarring on bearings.

The crankshaft set key is not on the little toothed sprocket. The fsm has pics that look as if there is a hole or mark on the toothed crank sprocket but it is the key way for the crank pulley that you align. You align 90* left to set TDC after installing heads and before installing camshafts. Then you align the set key to the machined timing mark going down from the head to the block to set the chain on crank ring.
Pic for reference. Note the timing dot on the crank sprocket ring https://drive.google.com/open?id=1DrSMJrQmGZuwR3swjqxsv1UJOkze78Jv

One question:
Did anyone use rtv/fipg for sealing the cam caps? Engine builder specifically told me to use it as they tend to leak oil. Anyone heard of this?

 

[djpope09]

I bought cta tools bihex off Amazon. Was very hard to seat on old oem
Bolts, but after I stuffed a thin rag in with the tool into the sockets I cleaned out old gunk that was keeping it from seating correctly. I actually couldn’t get it to seat at all in the fel-pro aftermarket bolts I purchased! I went and bought a trisquare and that was the perfect fit for the felpros.

I used the CTA bihex off Amazon too. Had the same fitment issue with the new Toyota head bolts. I had to wiggle the tool around for at least 30 seconds to get it to seat properly and then getting it out was just as hard. I'm wondering if the Snap On version is better.

Did you use a 10mm trisquare?

 

[earthrealm]

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