New rear seals with no bearings....FAIL!

dgoll75

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So I decided to test out just doing the seals without new bearings, figured for less than $30 and a wasted afternoon why not. Well gents let me assure you it is not worth doing this repair without doing EVERYTHING listed in the repair write ups for the rear seals. Let it be known that I was fairly sure this failure would be the end result but in reading all the write ups I didn't seem to see anyone admit just trying seals only. Now I know why! ;) I put about 1000 miles on my truck before the drivers side let go again. Back to work on them this weekend I suppose.
 
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Did you notice any movement in the bearing? Mine felt 100% solid with no movement. I did just the passenger side seal and its still dry around the drum. Have not checked if its dry at the abs sensor, but so far no blow out around the drum like I had before. Been over a year and at least 15k miles.
 
I'll just repost this here ....

They have play, it's just small enough that you can't see it yet still enough to allow Axel to move around once installed.

I think you should have the bearings done, especially at 200k on them. The shop guy might be wrong. Does he know 4runners?

Here's why I say that. I was told by my 4runner mechanic that the play in the older bearings allows the shaft to move around which wears out the seal early.

So by his logic, specifically on 4Runners, you need to the bearings and seals, at least if the bearings have say 100k on them.

He did acknowledge that the bearings will look fine and not make a howling sound. He said there is still a small enough amount of play on older bearings to make the failure happen.
 
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If you are replacing axle seals because oil is leaking past them, the bearings need to be replaced at the same time. This is because the gear oil has flushed the grease out of the bearings.
 
If you are replacing axle seals because oil is leaking past them, the bearings need to be replaced at the same time. This is because the gear oil has flushed the grease out of the bearings.

Never thought of that. Again I think they need replaced when they fail. Mine seem to be working fine, but if it starts to make noise I will replace the bearing and the seal all at that time. But so far my $5 fix has worked fine. I could not see any play what so ever and usually you can when the bearing is going bad.

And only reason I did it was being strapped on cash. IF YOU HAVE THE MONEY DO THE BEARING AT THE SAME TIME.
 
If you are replacing axle seals because oil is leaking past them, the bearings need to be replaced at the same time. This is because the gear oil has flushed the grease out of the bearings.


I've seen this comment several times and it is also disputed. When I took my axle apart the bearings looks perfectly fine, and they were still sealed great or at least appeared that way.

I have since heard that the reason to replace the bearings is that over time they get a bit of play in them, even though you cannot see or tell by holding them and then once installed that play allows the axle to move enough to let the gear oil slip by the seal.

So two sort of different theories on why to replace the bearings but the end result is you should replace them.
 
I guess it can go either way. I thought it was normal play in the bearing. I may try just a seal one more time and see what happens for shi8s and giggles. It only takes me about an hour or so to do one side. Let the experiment commence, round 2 that is.
 
Try it again but this time use OEM seals. Install the seals and then check to make sure your seal is actually seating on the retainer with grease.

ry%3D400
 
If you are looking to do seals and bearings, but don't have the money for OEM parts, I suggest using the NAPA bearings. They are substantially cheaper and come with the spacers you need as well. Also make sure to buy the ABS gears, sometimes they have to cut them off in order to remove them. They are also cheap, so don't skip those.

Also a note about bearings from NAPA. They have an expensive version and a cheaper version. They are the same thing!!! The manager at the NAPA I went to in ABQ was explaining to me that the only difference is the box on the expensive one says "OEM Replacement" and the other doesn't. They have the same warenty, and are literally the same part. If I remember right, the cheaper one was $30 each, and the "OEM Replacement" was $70 each... I have only had mine on for about 2000 miles, so I can't give a long term report, but they were quality parts from my personal inspection and everything is sealed up tight for me with zero issues as of today.
 
When they replace the bearing, they need to remove the 2 colars and the ABS gear in order to get the bearing off. In my case, my ABS gear would not come off, so they have to cut it in half to remove it. Then I had to go get the new parts, bring them to the shop and added a lot of extra time and cost in gas running around to get the parts needed. IMO it's easier to just spend the $5 (I think it was) each on the ABS gears and save yourself a lot of hastle.

Is it a requirement, I don't think it is, but I value my time and don't like running around chasing parts...
 

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