98Fizzy
New member
Wow.. That's nuts. Didn't know that. Thought dipstick would tell me when it was at proper level. So i need a scan tool too? I'll see if i can find a good write-up.
New to 4th Gen... Need parts advice... Front CV Axles & Hub..
- Thread starter 98Fizzy
- Start date
Wow.. That's nuts. Didn't know that. Thought dipstick would tell me when it was at proper level. So i need a scan tool too? I'll see if i can find a good write-up.
KaseyMcc
New member
I just realized you're a V6. I'm a V8 so the procedure for might be different--I don't have a dipstick. If you have a trans dipstick you would probably be fine to do your fluid level off of that but I haven't actually looked into the V6 process to know if it's different, or even if they have the same transmission. I would imagine the fluid level would still need to be set within a specified temperature range though.
If you look around a bit, you can find a way to get the dash warning light to light up when the trans fluid temp reaches the right temp--I believe it involves bridging a couple pins where you would connect to the OBD2 port, but I can't remember and it seemed more intimidating than just connecting a scan tool up to the OBD2.
AuSeeker
Elite Member
98Fizzy, if you have the 4 speed transmission, you have a dipstick and that is the correct way you check the fluid level, just make sure you read the owner's manual and following what is says about checking the trans fluid level as far as checking after it has been driven and warmed to operating temperature and in either park/neutral/drive, etc. and you will be fine, make sure you also check it later on, like a week or two later to make sure the level is still correct after the changing of the fluid in case you have any leaks, etc.
Also be sure you don't overfill the trans, which can be just as bad as not having enough fluid in most automatic transmissions.
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98Fizzy
New member
Uhm.. While i await parts delivery.. Is it safe to drive the 4th gen wit the driver side front wheel bearings so loose? Can the whole wheel actually fly off?
My 3rd gen needs starter contacts replaced i think because it started giving issues starting. Click.. Click.. Start. Went to autozone and battery tested charged but bad. Got new battery and still does it. So in case of emergency.. If 98 won't start.. Just want to know if 04 could be used momentarily or if a very bad idea. Is the bearing the only thing actually holding the thing together?
My 3rd gen needs starter contacts replaced i think because it started giving issues starting. Click.. Click.. Start. Went to autozone and battery tested charged but bad. Got new battery and still does it. So in case of emergency.. If 98 won't start.. Just want to know if 04 could be used momentarily or if a very bad idea. Is the bearing the only thing actually holding the thing together?
AuSeeker
Elite Member
You do have a nut on there, but I'm not sure if the bearing disintegrates if the nut will still keep the wheel on, but then there's the brake caliper over the rotor that will help keeping the wheel from coming off until you can get it stopped.
Others may be able to give you a better answer.
That being said only you knowing how bad the bearing is can judge if you drive it or not.
Others may be able to give you a better answer.
That being said only you knowing how bad the bearing is can judge if you drive it or not.
98Fizzy
New member
I don't want to drive it and haven't since finding it needed the bearings.
It just looks like (from removal proceedures) the single center nut holds the axle end where it is with wheel and allows it to stretch/flex in and out. Inner axle is pretty much set inside diff and held there with boot. So no real holding power. I'll have to look again but if the bearings are the only thing holding the hub pc's together.. I'd think the outer half with wheel could just fly right out.
It just looks like (from removal proceedures) the single center nut holds the axle end where it is with wheel and allows it to stretch/flex in and out. Inner axle is pretty much set inside diff and held there with boot. So no real holding power. I'll have to look again but if the bearings are the only thing holding the hub pc's together.. I'd think the outer half with wheel could just fly right out.
98Fizzy
New member
Slack like this...
https://youtu.be/YTS4ke7nViE
https://youtu.be/YTS4ke7nViE
AuSeeker
Elite Member
I have viewed his video before, that being said, there's no way the wheel can come off, if you noticed that the outer CV joint couldn't possibly pass through the knuckle and bearing carrier/housing, the outer CV joint with the splined shaft being attached to the hub by the nut and attatched to the wheel is much bigger than the opening in the knuckle and bearing carrier preventing the wheel from detaching from the vehicle unless the CV joint and spline shaft breaks apart, which is highly unlikely.
That being said, I wouldn't drive it...unless it was an emergency and I feel it wouldn't end badly even if the bearing failed drastically, which I doubt would happen from just driving it for short runs, if you drove it for an extend time the bearing could heat up and then fail completely.
Concerning the video, Eric is an experienced and capable mechanic...but he failed BIG time in his video in his attempt to remove the hub from the bearing and reassembling it, this process should be done with the assembly off the vehicle and using a 20 ton hydraulic press, also notice with all his hammering a beating on the bearing that the bearing never came apart, this just shows you how strong the bearing is even being worn out which should give you a little peace of mind if you do have to drive the 4Runner on a short run.
While I criticized Eric's method of removing the bearing, I will give him alot of credit for leaving this video on YouTube, he has never replaced this type of bearing before and without having a press he did the best he could, I know he realizes his mistake and admits it in the video and that other knowledgeable people would see it and his leaving the video on there shows he admiting his mistakes in video.
You shouldn't have to worry about this though if you're getting a complete bearing/carrier/hub assembly from the forum member/s who sells them, it a easy job when you don't have to separate and reassemble these parts.
That being said, I wouldn't drive it...unless it was an emergency and I feel it wouldn't end badly even if the bearing failed drastically, which I doubt would happen from just driving it for short runs, if you drove it for an extend time the bearing could heat up and then fail completely.
Concerning the video, Eric is an experienced and capable mechanic...but he failed BIG time in his video in his attempt to remove the hub from the bearing and reassembling it, this process should be done with the assembly off the vehicle and using a 20 ton hydraulic press, also notice with all his hammering a beating on the bearing that the bearing never came apart, this just shows you how strong the bearing is even being worn out which should give you a little peace of mind if you do have to drive the 4Runner on a short run.
While I criticized Eric's method of removing the bearing, I will give him alot of credit for leaving this video on YouTube, he has never replaced this type of bearing before and without having a press he did the best he could, I know he realizes his mistake and admits it in the video and that other knowledgeable people would see it and his leaving the video on there shows he admiting his mistakes in video.
You shouldn't have to worry about this though if you're getting a complete bearing/carrier/hub assembly from the forum member/s who sells them, it a easy job when you don't have to separate and reassemble these parts.
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98Fizzy
New member
I think you may be right. The hub nut or the axle shaft would have to fail and the caliper. Juat wanted to know if it could be used shortly in case of emergency safely and seems like would be with non aggressive driving.
Thanks brother. He sure was beating that thing. Lol.
I like his videos too.
98Fizzy
New member
Just an update.
I put the new hub/bearing assy on the driver side and rebooted both front inner axles with the napa boots.
I just don't have the funds right now for new ones and since i'm unsure if oem and they haven't made noise and i already had boots.. Figured i'd save the debt. Lol.
Anyone know how to identify stock axles?
I put the new hub/bearing assy on the driver side and rebooted both front inner axles with the napa boots.
I just don't have the funds right now for new ones and since i'm unsure if oem and they haven't made noise and i already had boots.. Figured i'd save the debt. Lol.
Anyone know how to identify stock axles?
earthrealm
Senior Member
did you ever resolve this?
any tips on differentiating oem cv axles from after market ones?, i came across a new cv axle, private seller claims its oem, unsure how to verify his claims
98Fizzy
New member
Just did passenger side today. Will do other side sometime this week as it's cracking and spewing a lil bit too now.
Went with napa's again. Only inners.. Outer boots are still fine.
31219B are the numbers on the inner end of the axle.
NACHI bearing numbers on tripod are 03C10.
Dunno if that helps anyone but figured I'd share.
