MonsterMaxx
New member
Parts are trickling in pretty steadily now. Suspension arrived today.
New to us '97 4runner Limited, 250kmi. Eek, what a project
- Thread starter MonsterMaxx
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MonsterMaxx
New member
Body Lift is here too, just waiting on some bushings now. And time to do it.
MonsterMaxx
New member
Made some progress yesterday.
Got the valve cover re-installed and put the engine all back together. With any luck, no leaks.
Got it up on jack stands and took the wheels and bumpers off. That was fun. NOT.
Got into the body lift and it's AFU. We ordered a 1" kit, spacers are 1.48", but the steering spacer is only .88. There's no instructions so I don't know how that's going to work. Also the A & C bolts are way too short. But it looks like the factory ones may be long enough. I paid for grade 12.9 (metric grade 8) but what we received was grade 8.8. And they say to reuse the factory washers...which are rubber molded into the factory body bushings. I'm pretty disappointed in this body lift kit so far.
I ordered some washers from McMaster.
Today we get into the suspension
Got the valve cover re-installed and put the engine all back together. With any luck, no leaks.
Got it up on jack stands and took the wheels and bumpers off. That was fun. NOT.
Got into the body lift and it's AFU. We ordered a 1" kit, spacers are 1.48", but the steering spacer is only .88. There's no instructions so I don't know how that's going to work. Also the A & C bolts are way too short. But it looks like the factory ones may be long enough. I paid for grade 12.9 (metric grade 8) but what we received was grade 8.8. And they say to reuse the factory washers...which are rubber molded into the factory body bushings. I'm pretty disappointed in this body lift kit so far.
I ordered some washers from McMaster.
Today we get into the suspension
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MonsterMaxx
New member
Spent another 6hrs on it yesterday.
I had the rear body bushings upside down, fixing this let me re-use all the stock fasteners since the ones I got from 4crawler were too short.
The steering spacer is clearly too short and needs to be replaced with one that's 1/2" taller. I am certain that that we did not get a 1" lift as ordered, but got 1.5". NBD, I can live with it, but need the right parts.
I did have to separate the big washers from the stock body mounts - even the instructions say to re-use the stock washers. This was a major pita and I had visions of slicing my fingers w/ a razor dancing thru my head. Got it done though with all my digits intact. Now I just need to attack it with a tape measure to center the body and tighten everything.
So once I got that done I pulled the front struts - pretty easy. Now I can take them and have the springs changed.
Then I went after the rear suspension and got it installed. IDK how anyone could do the upper shock bolt w/o a body lift. Made me grateful for the extra half inch that's for sure. Still a tough spot. Taking the old ones off I drilled a hole thru the shield and stuck a screwdriver thru it. Worked
The stockers were totally whipped too. Truck ought to ride a LOT better w/ the new shocks.
New shocks are quite a bit longer
Turned out the sway bar link is too short though. Either I need longer links or a bracket to move the sway bar up. Sorenson says there's a bracket that comes with the 1.2 kit that'll work to solve this...another $37.50
Another problem arose when I tried to drop the diff enough to install the springs. The diff lock wire's bracket needed to be disconnected. Upon finish install they are nowhere near long enough to reconnect the bracket. I'll have to fab something. Shouldn't be too hard.
Anyway, other than the sway bar and locking diff bracket the rear suspension is done and looking good
I had the rear body bushings upside down, fixing this let me re-use all the stock fasteners since the ones I got from 4crawler were too short.
The steering spacer is clearly too short and needs to be replaced with one that's 1/2" taller. I am certain that that we did not get a 1" lift as ordered, but got 1.5". NBD, I can live with it, but need the right parts.
I did have to separate the big washers from the stock body mounts - even the instructions say to re-use the stock washers. This was a major pita and I had visions of slicing my fingers w/ a razor dancing thru my head. Got it done though with all my digits intact. Now I just need to attack it with a tape measure to center the body and tighten everything.
So once I got that done I pulled the front struts - pretty easy. Now I can take them and have the springs changed.
Then I went after the rear suspension and got it installed. IDK how anyone could do the upper shock bolt w/o a body lift. Made me grateful for the extra half inch that's for sure. Still a tough spot. Taking the old ones off I drilled a hole thru the shield and stuck a screwdriver thru it. Worked
The stockers were totally whipped too. Truck ought to ride a LOT better w/ the new shocks.
New shocks are quite a bit longer
Turned out the sway bar link is too short though. Either I need longer links or a bracket to move the sway bar up. Sorenson says there's a bracket that comes with the 1.2 kit that'll work to solve this...another $37.50
Another problem arose when I tried to drop the diff enough to install the springs. The diff lock wire's bracket needed to be disconnected. Upon finish install they are nowhere near long enough to reconnect the bracket. I'll have to fab something. Shouldn't be too hard.
Anyway, other than the sway bar and locking diff bracket the rear suspension is done and looking good
MonsterMaxx
New member
I decided to not change the front springs myself w/ a handheld spring compressor. Yea, I'm competent to do it, but just decided to let someone else do them. So I dropped the shocks/springs off this AM and am still waiting on a call to pick them up.
MonsterMaxx
New member
Coilovers are done.
LBJs arrived this morning.
Getting ready to head out to the shop and finish up the front end and body lift. It's brrrr cold out there this morning though so I'm stalling.
LBJs arrived this morning.
Getting ready to head out to the shop and finish up the front end and body lift. It's brrrr cold out there this morning though so I'm stalling.
variablevalve
New member
Woah awesome, never thought to do a compression test in the lot. Did they say anything about that?
MonsterMaxx
New member
they weren't happy, but let me do it.
MonsterMaxx
New member
Another 5 hrs today.
Working on one side, had a very hard time separating the tie rod end from the lower ball joint. Ended up destroying the tie rod stud and the ABS sensor. OOPS.
Got them separated but the thread was pretty badly mushroomed and couldn't for the life of me get another nut on there. Gave up, decided to get new ones.
Driver's side didn't even try, just took it off.
Also broke a sway bar link. Looked pretty rotten anyway.
But got the LBJs installed and the coilovers installed.
Then went after the sway bar bushings. NBD.
Then the rack bushings. OMG, whatever knucklehead decided to have the center bolt a blind bolt from the top ought to be shot. Just no room and the greasyiest spot on the truck to work in. I got it eventually, but there were plenty of $%^&&* going on. It was good I did it though as the stockers were completely shot. Here's a pic of the tattered remains.
And one with the suspension 95% done. Just have to get new tie rod ends, a ABS sensor and some sway bar links.
Did have one problem with the suspension design, the spindle hit the spring around the upper ball joint. Some work with a grinder took care of that issue in short order though.
While I was already dirty I centered the body up and tightened all those body bolts too.
Next up: Bumpers and sliders.
Working on one side, had a very hard time separating the tie rod end from the lower ball joint. Ended up destroying the tie rod stud and the ABS sensor. OOPS.
Got them separated but the thread was pretty badly mushroomed and couldn't for the life of me get another nut on there. Gave up, decided to get new ones.
Driver's side didn't even try, just took it off.
Also broke a sway bar link. Looked pretty rotten anyway.
But got the LBJs installed and the coilovers installed.
Then went after the sway bar bushings. NBD.
Then the rack bushings. OMG, whatever knucklehead decided to have the center bolt a blind bolt from the top ought to be shot. Just no room and the greasyiest spot on the truck to work in. I got it eventually, but there were plenty of $%^&&* going on. It was good I did it though as the stockers were completely shot. Here's a pic of the tattered remains.
And one with the suspension 95% done. Just have to get new tie rod ends, a ABS sensor and some sway bar links.
Did have one problem with the suspension design, the spindle hit the spring around the upper ball joint. Some work with a grinder took care of that issue in short order though.
While I was already dirty I centered the body up and tightened all those body bolts too.
Next up: Bumpers and sliders.
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poleclimber63
Member
Another 5 hrs today.
Working on one side, had a very hard time separating the tie rod end from the lower ball joint. Ended up destroying the tie rod stud and the ABS sensor. OOPS.
Got them separated but the thread was pretty badly mushroomed and couldn't for the life of me get another nut on there. Gave up, decided to get new ones.
Driver's side didn't even try, just took it off.
Also broke a sway bar link. Looked pretty rotten anyway.
But got the LBJs installed and the coilovers installed.
Then went after the sway bar bushings. NBD.
Then the rack bushings. OMG, whatever knucklehead decided to have the center bolt a blind bolt from the top ought to be shot. Just no room and the greasyiest spot on the truck to work in. I got it eventually, but there were plenty of $%^&&* going on. It was good I did it though as the stockers were completely shot. Here's a pic of the tattered remains.
And one with the suspension 95% done. Just have to get new tie rod ends, a ABS sensor and some sway bar links.
Did have one problem with the suspension design, the spindle hit the spring around the upper ball joint. Some work with a grinder took care of that issue in short order though.
While I was already dirty I centered the body up and tightened all those body bolts too.
Next up: Bumpers and sliders.
Wow, doing it all at once! I wish I had that kind of time on my hands! I'm a "one step at a time kind of guy" seeing I needed to drive it to work everyday....
I must admit the steering rack was also a pita for me. I'm sure you had air, I myself used an electric impact wrench (without which, would have made this job near impossible without 18" arms and a body mass of 250lbs) and really high jack stands... the more room the better. My old bushings were also really bad--- much like yours.
Excellent progress! So, what have you decided on the brake issue? If you're not into replacing rims ($1000 new or $300-400 used) then 199mm will fit under your existing rims. They'll give you the same braking performance as the originals however, with the thicker rotors, there will be no fade and they'll never warp. Then, when budget allows, (rims and 231mm calipers) its all bolt on. On the rears, there are no commonly accepted upgrades here. I have seen a 2 disc upgrades, one required a significant amount of fabbing and the member never really finished the project...
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/106636-rear-disk-brake-conversion-pt-1-a.html
The other, a British member(I'll locate his link when I find it), replaced the entire rear end from a Japanese model, which, I believe was $$$ expensive. My former boss, on his Dodge RAM, increased the size of his rear wheel cylinders--- which he said made a huge difference for him. I've never heard of anyone doing this to a 4R. I don't think rear braking issues are big enough, for that.
Out of curiosity, what springs did you choose? For shocks, I saw the billy's in one of your pics...
As one of the other members mentioned, I'd check the rear diff breather the next time you're under. Better yet, do a diff breather extension now that you've done a body lift. Trust me, doing rear seals isn't fun. This is a common failure. As its a fiddle, most replace the bearings as well, as having diff fluid passing thru them isn't great.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...e-information-replacement-thread-3rd-gen.html
You posted you were planning to bypass your rad. I'd do it sooner rather than later I used the B+M 70268. I did this, and after a hot Summer towing my boat, I decided to add a second cooler. Some members have used the bigger cooler(70274)... its thicker so it requires a little more thought wrt mounting.
I'll be interested to see what you come up with for bumpers. Always good to see what home builders come up with! Weight is always the challenge!
Good luck!
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MonsterMaxx
New member
Yup, trying to get ahead of the curve. Do all the stuff that needs to be done (that we can afford) at one time. Then piecemeal the rest as we can pay for it.
The things I'm doing in phase 1 are really needed or would have to be redone at a later date if we cheaped out on something like shocks. Do it once and do it right.
Yes, I will be doing the bigger tundra brakes, going with an 18" wheel/tire like I have on my '94. Hoping the current brakes will hold up for a few months until wifey can save $2500 for wheels/tires/brakes.
The suspension is Sonoran's 7.2 kit which uses the bilstein 5100 shocks and OME rear springs w/ a bigger front spring (not sure which one.) It's a 2.5-3" kit. Includes an adjustable rear track bar.
Already have the B&M trans cooler here, just have to do a trans filter change and flush then I'll put it in. Sadly I missed that the condenser is bent into the radiator so it's looking like I need to replace them too before mounting up the trans cooler. I'm going to try to bend the condenser back, but I have little confidence this will work.
The bumpers is something I did professionally in the late 80s and early 90s when I lived in Colorado. A few years ago I even took it up a notch w/ the Ford Superduty. Sadly the Ford's were too expensive to make and my partner was embezzling money so that venture went down.
I figure I'll have a day to a day and a half fabbing up each (front/rear/sliders) then another day of welding and priming (a paintjob is still a ways down the road.) I have all the raw material and the winch/driving lights here, so it's just a matter of finding the time.
The 4runner ought to be coming together in the next week or so and be driveable. Then wifey can get rid of the little shoebox rental she has now.
The things I'm doing in phase 1 are really needed or would have to be redone at a later date if we cheaped out on something like shocks. Do it once and do it right.
Yes, I will be doing the bigger tundra brakes, going with an 18" wheel/tire like I have on my '94. Hoping the current brakes will hold up for a few months until wifey can save $2500 for wheels/tires/brakes.
The suspension is Sonoran's 7.2 kit which uses the bilstein 5100 shocks and OME rear springs w/ a bigger front spring (not sure which one.) It's a 2.5-3" kit. Includes an adjustable rear track bar.
Already have the B&M trans cooler here, just have to do a trans filter change and flush then I'll put it in. Sadly I missed that the condenser is bent into the radiator so it's looking like I need to replace them too before mounting up the trans cooler.
I'm going to try to bend the condenser back, but I have little confidence this will work.The bumpers is something I did professionally in the late 80s and early 90s when I lived in Colorado. A few years ago I even took it up a notch w/ the Ford Superduty. Sadly the Ford's were too expensive to make and my partner was embezzling money so that venture went down.
I figure I'll have a day to a day and a half fabbing up each (front/rear/sliders) then another day of welding and priming (a paintjob is still a ways down the road.) I have all the raw material and the winch/driving lights here, so it's just a matter of finding the time.
The 4runner ought to be coming together in the next week or so and be driveable. Then wifey can get rid of the little shoebox rental she has now.
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MonsterMaxx
New member
Got the 'runner running yesterday and took it for an alignment. Was making some growling noises on the way.
Got it out of the alignment shop and it's vibrating pretty bad. Looks like the CV joints let go too. O'rileys has them for $70 ea so I got some new ones and will put them in later this afternoon.
Still have to make the bumpers, but I figured get it running and let wifey return the rental.
Got it out of the alignment shop and it's vibrating pretty bad. Looks like the CV joints let go too. O'rileys has them for $70 ea so I got some new ones and will put them in later this afternoon.
Still have to make the bumpers, but I figured get it running and let wifey return the rental.
Jungoes
Member
any more details or build thread on that 94???
it reminds me of a movie called " MIRAGE" from the 90's
where a black truck terrorizes 3 people in the desert.. the truck is a dodge but the bumper on your 94 reminds me of it...
Mirage (1990) - IMDb
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LAkFMeCKb1A
it reminds me of a movie called " MIRAGE" from the 90's
where a black truck terrorizes 3 people in the desert.. the truck is a dodge but the bumper on your 94 reminds me of it...
Mirage (1990) - IMDb
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LAkFMeCKb1A
MonsterMaxx
New member
Fixed the front CVs which were splattering milky white goo everywhere only to find the Rear CV was also bad.
Oh brother.
Got it off and took it to Carolina Driveline for rebuild. A NEW one from Toyota is $760 - ouch
Oh brother.
Got it off and took it to Carolina Driveline for rebuild. A NEW one from Toyota is $760 - ouch
MonsterMaxx
New member
What details would you like? The build occured before all these fancy forums existed so there's no build thread.
MonsterMaxx
New member
I don't know if it's 'crappy' just not easy to order right, and even then, they built me something else than what I ordered. 1.5" instead of 1" NBD, it's all good now.
MonsterMaxx
New member
Looks like I forgot to update this post...
The front CVs were replaced with oriley's at a fraction of the cost I thought they'd be. No more leaks. Still had vibration.
the vibrations were coming from a rear driveshaft CV joint that cost $500 and took a week+ to make.
Other than that it seems to be going OK, wifey has been driving it. It burns a little oil 1/4 of a qt / tank thereabouts.
Sadly, my '94 seems to have lost a carrier bearing in the rear end. Of course I didn't catch it early and have wiped out the whole thing. Like $900 just in parts. While I wait for someone to sell me a built one in the used forums I've loaned wifey my tires.
A set of the Bora .75" wheel spacers was used in the front to clear the big meats otherwise they hit the upper control arm.
Some new pictures of the 4runner
Wifey's not so sure on the black wheels, but otherwise says it rides better w/ these 33"s.
She says it shakes at 80...I'm like...yea.
Truck is coming along. I've spent a weekend or two trying to come up with something cool for a front bumper and am getting closer to knowing what I'll build. I didn't want to just do two parallel tubes, and of course, there's the winch to deal with too along with a bunch of lights. Tough design for sure.
The front CVs were replaced with oriley's at a fraction of the cost I thought they'd be. No more leaks. Still had vibration.
the vibrations were coming from a rear driveshaft CV joint that cost $500 and took a week+ to make.
Other than that it seems to be going OK, wifey has been driving it. It burns a little oil 1/4 of a qt / tank thereabouts.
Sadly, my '94 seems to have lost a carrier bearing in the rear end. Of course I didn't catch it early and have wiped out the whole thing. Like $900 just in parts. While I wait for someone to sell me a built one in the used forums I've loaned wifey my tires.
A set of the Bora .75" wheel spacers was used in the front to clear the big meats otherwise they hit the upper control arm.
Some new pictures of the 4runner
Wifey's not so sure on the black wheels, but otherwise says it rides better w/ these 33"s.
She says it shakes at 80...I'm like...yea.
Truck is coming along. I've spent a weekend or two trying to come up with something cool for a front bumper and am getting closer to knowing what I'll build. I didn't want to just do two parallel tubes, and of course, there's the winch to deal with too along with a bunch of lights. Tough design for sure.
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MonsterMaxx
New member
And it split the top tank on the radiator...
MonsterMaxx
New member
OK, brakes are making horrible noise, told wifey we had to do them NOW. She objected, but I made a case for if she hits something because the brakes are bad our insurance will skyrocket. So the Tundra brake upgrade along with replacing the rear parts and a new master is ordered. Even got a set of Wheelers braided lines for the front.
And this brings me to a question. Wanting to get wifey something for Christmas and she's objecting due to a bit of a tight financial situation.
But I thought maybe seat covers for the front seats wouldn't be too expensive. Suggestions on a good quality nice fitting set would be really appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
And this brings me to a question. Wanting to get wifey something for Christmas and she's objecting due to a bit of a tight financial situation.
But I thought maybe seat covers for the front seats wouldn't be too expensive. Suggestions on a good quality nice fitting set would be really appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
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