Nitto Ridge Grappler?

Pretty bummed that after my first off road trip I already have chunking. Never had that problem with My K02s
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Geez. Thats sucks. I have hundreds of off road miles on mine and no chunking. I air down to 20 PSI and terrain is most times very rocky.
 
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Got them mounted yesterday. I love these tires already. Smooth ride, unbelievably quiet, and best of all, no pull! Hardly any effort in steering wheel corrections and it feels just like the first day I purchased the vehicle. No more Coopers for me with my experience.

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Interesting. I had my front swaybar removed the same day I had my Cooper STT Pro's installed, and ever since I've had a wicked pull to driver's side and have been trying to determine the source ever since. I'm talking 50-100yds at 65mph and you'd be in the ditch kind of pull. Really didn't think of attributing it to my tire selection(more steering or frame alignment), but the timing would definitely make sense.
Care to elaborate on your experience or link to a post or thread where you've discussed it before?

I have a few RFQ's out to different vendors for the 285/75R17 flavor of the Ridge Grapplers and Falken A/T3w's, and it would be a huge bonus if, in addition to cutting noise and fuel consumption, they also helped remedy this crazy pull I've been experiencing.


Cheers!
 
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Interesting. I had my front swaybar removed the same day I had my Cooper STT Pro's installed, and ever since I've had a wicked pull to driver's side and have been trying to determine the source ever since. I'm talking 50-100yds at 65mph and you'd be in the ditch kind of pull. Really didn't think of attributing it to my tire selection(more steering or frame alignment), but the timing would definitely make sense.
Care to elaborate on your experience or link to a post or thread where you've discussed it before?

I have a few RFQ's out to different vendors for the 285/75R17 flavor of the Ridge Grapplers and Falken A/T3w's, and it would be a huge bonus if, in addition to cutting noise and fuel consumption, they also helped remedy this crazy pull I've been experiencing.


Cheers!

Definitely don't mind discussing it.
In short, I could let go of the wheel on the highway and make a lane change or exit regardless of my 4 alignments and psi.

gm350reratliff told me about the cross caster numbers of about 1.2* on his 4th gen and I thought about getting it aligned again with more cross caster as last resort. But I couldn't go through the hassle. I was done with these tires after only 8000 miles and less than a year.



Loved the ST Maxx's the moment I got them. Looked great. I never thought much of the pull because I always adjusted my front end height. More than several times in the initial month. Finally after a month of having the tires, got it aligned. Wasn't happy with the results. Shop A gave me more than 5* of caster and the pull to the right was just as bad. Got my money back and took it to a different shop.

Shop B did great and gave me numbers most of everyone would expect and say to get on here. They test drove it, put it back on the lift and swapped the tires. They explained to me that the pull was more minimal after doing so, so it's more than likely a tire pull as their boss has the same tire. I didn't want to believe it and I figured it was excuses. But it did feel great on the road. The pull was slightly there but much better.
I only drive 150 miles a week for work and in 2 weeks the pull was noticeably back.
I was about to take my first trip of about 100 miles to an off road park. I swapped the front two tires and headed out. Handling was great and pull was very minimal again. Sucked it up and figured I was being too picky. Maybe this is what comes with owning a vehicle like this.

Fast forward, more suspension adjustments.
Shop C gave me great numbers. Caster was 3.8 and 4.1. Pull was still there. He also noticed my axle was 3/4" off to the right due to my lift and maybe that could be causing it. I started researching here about adjustable panhard bars but found it wasn't needed for my lift height.
They told me if I'm not happy with it, come on back and they'll adjust it again no charge. They hand tightened everything while I specifically asked for 129ft-lb on the lower control arms. I figured whatever, maybe it'll be fine. Still had a pull. Decided to deal with it as I had another trip coming up to the off-road park with some buddies.

I had a lot of popping noises while at the off road park and I knew it was that driver side lower control arm bolt.

Went back to Shop C and they fixed it, torqued it, with a slight bit more adjustments in caster (3.8 and 4.2). During my drive home from the Shop C, the driver side popped one time again while I was making a u-turn. I couldn't believe it. I saw him torque it down to 130 ft-lbs so I couldn't figure it out. I was able to turn it another bit with my torque wrench at home and I called them immediately. It either came down to his torque wrench wasn't calibrated, or something could have been wrong with my eccentric bolts. I left it alone as it still drove better with the numbers he initially gave me, although that pop probably threw something off.

Over the course of the next 2 months, I didn't notice any negative impact in my tires.
I started playing with tire pressures ranging from 32 to 42psi. The higher it got, the straighter it went, but more inside tire wear for the front.
Settled on 35psi with even wear. It was easy to keep the vehicle straight, but I had to point the wheel to the left by half an inch. I sucked it up and left it alone.

Still tolerating the alignment as it was easy to handle on the highway. Again, I just had to hold my wheel more to the left by half an inch. I was used to it at this point.
I started researching into tire pulls and slowly started finding more and more evidence of tire pulls with ST Maxx's. Members from here, TacomaWorld, and a Jeep Wrangler forum.

I went to Discount the next day told them my story and asked them what could be done. One member helped me out and knew it was an issue, heard of a lot of complaints due to the tread and completely understood. He threw a number at me that I was happy with, went in two days later to get them mounted and manager said they made a mistake and I'd be paying $200 more. Wasn't happy with this so they at least credited me for one of my alignments.

Driving away from the store was the best it had felt. No pull, quiet, and smooth at 40psi. After about a week now and they still feel great. Sometimes a bit twitchy around 40-50mph, my guess is the road imperfections around here, but highway speeds are great. No negative tire wear but I do plan on getting maybe one more alignment with these just to be certain. But I don't want to jinx it.
 
I have had my Nittos for a month now. I am completely shocked at how quiet they are. If I had to put a number on it I would say maybe 5% louder than the highway tires I had on previously, THAT quiet. Hopefully they will not get louder as they wear only time will tell. Only other comment is that they are firm, but a good firm. I went from one of the cheapest and softest tires on the market to these Nittos. This is my first LT tire (6ply). Very happy so far

I have not tested them in any real off roading but I would have no reservations about doing so, road driving makes up 95% of my usage.


I Like most on here suffered from the steering wheel vibration issues at 55-65 mph. I swapped out my factory SR5 rims and cheap highway tires for Factory Trail rims and these Nitto Ridgegrapplers and the vibration has drastically improved. My old tires only had 10k miles alignment was on point and tires balanced. Hopefully this has fixed the issue
 
Definitely don't mind discussing it.
In short, I could let go of the wheel on the highway and make a lane change or exit regardless of my 4 alignments and psi.

Thank you very much! Sounds a heck of a lot like my experience, although I've only had 3 alignments at different shops.
I have to say, I'm really looking forward to this new set of tires more and more!
 
Just got back from the dealer who installed lift, tint, SCS wheels, and 285/70/R17 E load ridge grapplers.

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The thing is.....I asked the dealer to install C load ….not E load!

Dealer told me that they would gladly switch them out tomorrow if I didn't like them driving on the way home. They said the E load were slightly more expensive but still charged the C load price. They realized they made a mistake, but....they were trying to convince me to keep the E load because they said the weight is the same between C and E so you might as well get the stronger tires.

I was thinking that the main disadvantage to E load is stiffness? My initial impression on the way home was that ...they felt really stiff. I felt a lot of bumps in the road. But....when I got home I checked and the tires were at like...51-52lbs of air pressure.

Anyway....thoughts on this? Should I make the dealer switch them out? Should I just let out air to 35lbs or so instead?
 
I was thinking that the main disadvantage to E load is stiffness? My initial impression on the way home was that ...they felt really stiff. I felt a lot of bumps in the road. But....when I got home I checked and the tires were at like...51-52lbs of air pressure.

Anyway....thoughts on this? Should I make the dealer switch them out? Should I just let out air to 35lbs or so instead?


E’s are a bit stiffer. I run my REVO 3 E’s at 42-43 psi. Seems to be the sweet spot for mine. I would try dropping yours back and take for a test drive. 52 psi in mine and I would need new kidneys.



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Just got back from the dealer who installed lift, tint, SCS wheels, and 285/70/R17 E load ridge grapplers.

iaMf1Ndh.jpg


ERS81mth.jpg


The thing is.....I asked the dealer to install C load ….not E load!

Dealer told me that they would gladly switch them out tomorrow if I didn't like them driving on the way home. They said the E load were slightly more expensive but still charged the C load price. They realized they made a mistake, but....they were trying to convince me to keep the E load because they said the weight is the same between C and E so you might as well get the stronger tires.

I was thinking that the main disadvantage to E load is stiffness? My initial impression on the way home was that ...they felt really stiff. I felt a lot of bumps in the road. But....when I got home I checked and the tires were at like...51-52lbs of air pressure.

Anyway....thoughts on this? Should I make the dealer switch them out? Should I just let out air to 35lbs or so instead?

I have C load RG and will be buying them again once they wear out. I've never flatted off road aired down to 20psi and most is done in sharp rocky terrain. I will say that I do not drive at high speed off road, nor do I tow anything. Tires are made so well today IMO. The on road ride is really nice too. For my needs C is the way to go.
 
I was running my 275/70/17 ko2 E, and 265/70/17 E ridge grapplers at 40 psi. I had the 285/70/17 C RG set at 40 but the ride seemed really harsh, backed off to 36 psi. We will se how that goes.
 
There is no perfect pressure. Every rig is different because none of our rigs are equal. Different mods equal more or less weight which changes the perfect pressure. Do the chalk line test, that's the ONLY way you'll know when it's perfect.
 
I run mine at 32 psi. I have 20k on this set and rotate them every 5k, no wear is noticeable. I had them rotated yesterday, then experienced a shimmy in the steering wheel from about 50 to 70 mph. Went to Discount and had them re balanced, shimmy is gone. They said the balance was off quit a bit. It is the first time I have noticed anything adverse with these tires, also this is the first time I have had to have then re balanced. I will plan on getting the balance completed more often in the future, I love these tires.
 

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