No Acceleration, 10mpg?

[Ryanincc]

Ive been digging around here for a while now looking for a direction to go but can't seem to find what Im looking for.
Long story, as short as I can. I have no acceleration and Im getting progressively worse gas mileage over the last 6 months. Getting 10 mpg city over the last 7 tanks or so by doing the odometer/gas added math, and 11 mpg from the Ultra Gauge. Its like Im starting in 3rd gear. If i gun it, it takes off like Im on a Sunday drive. No CEL but the UG got a "pending" p0300, 302, 303 yesterday while on the freeway, however I do get a "pending" every month or two, usually 301. Reset it and haven't seen them before or since. I took it to the dealership last week. I was told the mechanic that was working on it has the same engine so I was confident in the work. They kept it over night and apparently checked all the cylinders, coil packs for Ohm resistance I think he said, injectors. Said they cleaned the MAF sensor that had K&N oil on it...oops. Diagnosis - Told me to run premium gas, which I already do, and run two cans of sea foam through it, which I did about 3000 miles ago. I put the sea foam in with a half a tank and it could be my imagination but acceleration seems even worse since then.
6 months ago I got a camper. Added a B&M SuperCooler to the t4r, and have been towing about a 3K lbs pop up every three weeks or so. It seems my MPG has begun the crash since then but the acceleration has been in the crapper for about two months, especially over the last 3 weeks.
It does Not idle funny, sound weird, knock, ping, hesitate, smoke or anything unusual except the bad acceleration and mpg. Its like I lost 100HP. Any ideas?

 

[shootmymime]

Ive been digging around here for a while now looking for a direction to go but can't seem to find what Im looking for.
Long story, as short as I can. I have no acceleration and Im getting progressively worse gas mileage over the last 6 months. Getting 10 mpg city over the last 7 tanks or so by doing the odometer/gas added math, and 11 mpg from the Ultra Gauge. Its like Im starting in 3rd gear. If i gun it, it takes off like Im on a Sunday drive. No CEL but the UG got a "pending" p0300, 302, 303 yesterday while on the freeway, however I do get a "pending" every month or two, usually 301. I took it to the dealership last week. I was told the mechanic that was working on it has the same engine so I was confident in the work. They kept it over night and apparently checked all the cylinders, coil packs for Ohm resistance I think he said, injectors. Said they cleaned the MAF sensor that had K&N oil on it...oops. Diagnosis - Told me to run premium gas, which I already do, and run two cans of sea foam through it, which I did about 3000 miles ago. I put the sea foam in with a half a tank and it could be my imagination but acceleration seems even worse since then.
6 months ago I got a camper. Added a B&M SuperCooler to the t4r, and have been towing about a 3K lbs pop up every three weeks or so. It seems my MPG has begun the crash since then but the acceleration has been in the crapper for about two months, especially over the last 3 weeks.
It does Not idle funny, sound weird, knock, ping, hesitate, smoke or anything unusual except the bad acceleration and mpg. Its like I lost 100HP. Any ideas?

i would check spark plugs. replace them and or wires. check the plugs for abnormal color or smell.
with the motor running and getting hot spray water from a bottle onto the exhaust manifold its a good old trick for us mussel car guys to check what cyl is not firing before we had computers and codes telling what to fix.

but go with the codes. do a basic tune up if it is in the ball park of needing one.

 

[Ryanincc]

Tune up was done about 8k miles ago using NGKs. "I" did do it myself which was a first, but I the dealership checked the plugs and wires. Im thinking Ill just have to take it back and pay this time since this last time I just brought a bunch of tacos for the mechanics, per the service advisors advice.

 

[Ryanincc]

I just took the O2 sensor in front of that cat converter off to see if it would accelerate any better and no improvement.

 

[Limbwalker]

Sounds like the shifting is out of adjustment and its not kicking down to first.

 

[Ryanincc]

its in first, it just takes a loooonng time for it to accelerate to 2nd. not so long for 3rd. Above 35mph the acceleration is "decent".

 

[rickeyroyal]

sounds like a bad knock sensor. I had the same problem. I guess when a knock sensor goes bad it totally retards the timing and you get zero power and terrible fuel milage. The sensors are a pain to get to and there is a quick rig job you can do. You need to find the wiring harness that comes from the sensors under the intake plenum and splice both wires together. This basically tricks the ecu into thinking thinking the knock sensor is alright. i did it on my rig and haven't had any problems. Search the forums someone did a write up on it thats where i got the info. Hope this helps! Good luck!

p.s. i think the code for the sensors is 300 and 330

 

[Ryanincc]

sounds like a bad knock sensor. I had the same problem. I guess when a knock sensor goes bad it totally retards the timing and you get zero power and terrible fuel milage. The sensors are a pain to get to and there is a quick rig job you can do. You need to find the wiring harness that comes from the sensors under the intake plenum and splice both wires together. This basically tricks the ecu into thinking thinking the knock sensor is alright. i did it on my rig and haven't had any problems. Search the forums someone did a write up on it thats where i got the info. Hope this helps! Good luck!

p.s. i think the code for the sensors is 300 and 330

Thanks, Ill look for that.

 

[awpsome]

Thanks, Ill look for that.

if it is the knock sensor you would have the check engine light come on.
this would rule out this being the issue unless you are showing codes for the knock sensor. I just did this job last week and it definitely it an all day job to do so and quite expensive if you plan to do it all while your in there.
meaning not just changing the broken sensor but both, the harness, and the gaskets.
best of luck

 

[Twan]

Taking away the computer's ability to detect and compensate for knock? That just sounds like an awful idea.

 

[Ryanincc]

Yeah, Im thinking ill just pay the $90 for the diagnostic and try to fix what they tell me is wrong.

 

[awpsome]

Yeah, Im thinking ill just pay the $90 for the diagnostic and try to fix what they tell me is wrong.

if your paying someone $90 to pull the codes, id invest in your own code reader.
for example an ultraguage is only $50~ if I remember correctly, it'll pull codes for you for the rest of your life on any OBD2 car/truck you will ever own.
also give you a bunch of statistics on your truck if you want to monitor them while your at it.

don't waste your money on someone else to pull it for you. order the gauge and pull them yourself then go on google and search the check engine code.
if you want a nicer gauge you can also look into a scangauge but that'll run you about $100~ but still a much better deal long term then paying someone else.

food for thought.

 

[awpsome]

there is also a chart of obd2 codes specific for our Toyotas on the page someone you can cross reference the check engine codes against.

 

[Ryanincc]

if your paying someone $90 to pull the codes, id invest in your own code reader.
for example an ultraguage is only $50~ if I remember correctly, it'll pull codes for you for the rest of your life on any OBD2 car/truck you will ever own.
also give you a bunch of statistics on your truck if you want to monitor them while your at it.

don't waste your money on someone else to pull it for you. order the gauge and pull them yourself then go on google and search the check engine code.
if you want a nicer gauge you can also look into a scangauge but that'll run you about $100~ but still a much better deal long term then paying someone else.

food for thought.

In my OP I say that I have an Ultra Gauge. Im not really getting any codes. Im aware what the low 300's are which are cylinder misfires. Im strting to wonder if this is maybe a fuel filter?

 

[awpsome]

In my OP I say that I have an Ultra Gauge. Im not really getting any codes. Im aware what the low 300's are which are cylinder misfires. Im strting to wonder if this is maybe a fuel filter?

my mistake, skimmed through it first time around.

 

[Ryanincc]

I just noticed that when I let it idle for a minute, the RPMs drop to 600 and its rough. Does that change anything?

 

[Ryanincc]

Took it in to a my mechanic. Replaced the fuel filter with slight imrovement. FF was about 80% blocked. Checked plugs wires coils, all good. Cat looks good. Had to take the vehicle since the wife's is in the shop to working on her third fuel pump this month. Pick hers up in the AM and drop mine off for further digging. Can anyone tell me which sensors that will NOT throw a code? Thinking about using my Haynes to do some resistance testing. Or is there something Im missing?

 

[Ryanincc]

Just wanted to update this for future search results.

Its currently been in the shop for a week, and Im quickly losing all faith in the shop's capabilities. They said they have ruled out the engine and drivetrain, and anything "catastrophic" and said, "it must be electrical" and willing to accept any ideas if I have any. So far, it isn't coils, plugs, injectors, fuel filter, cat or anything else obvious unless its the pump which I don't know if they checked. Could it be the main computer?

I am wondering from any of you other guys, would you continue to leave your 4Runner with your long time shop after a week with no results or would you suck up the probable outrageous cost and take your 3rd gen into the dealership? My shop has never done me wrong before and I got to them originally from two previous long time shops that were screwing me over. I am positive they have not had it in a bay this whole time as they are a busy shop. Where would you draw the line?

 

[02SE]

Having worked as a Master Tech in the dealership setting, and at independent shops, I can tell you that where you go, isn't as important as who is diagnosing your vehicle.

There are competent diagnostic Tech's, and there are parts changers. I can think of all sorts of possibilities for your lack of power, but without having the vehicle in front of me to inspect and run tests on, it's all a guessing game.

If the place it's at now can't figure it out, then it's time to try someplace else.

 

[jgue467]

I'd go pay them a visit and let them know I need the vehicle then judge if you can see active work on it - if they're on it talk to 'em and go from there, if they're too busy on other vehicles then ask to release it. It is too long to not know anything IMO. My guy here in ATX has an answer in an hour or two or at least same day (although mine hasn't suffered what you're going thru, yet). :^)