No CEL but has the O2 sensor gone bad?

RonMAIDEN

Super Moderator
My truck is a Cali emissions truck and is still on the original sensors and my truck has gotten a bit stinky from the tailpipe on startup and it has a shudder (not misfire) that settles about 30 seconds after startup and wondering if either of the sensors has gone bad but not throwing a CEL.
I did a search but it's alot wading thru all that info trying to find what I want.
Do I need to replace both sensors or just replace the rear one first?
And what's the Denso part # and where the cheapest I can find it?

My MPGs have been under 15mpg but a short 1 mile round trip commute isn't helping.
 
Register to hide this ad
According to [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] you can read the values off the O2 Sensor using the TorquePro android app (or iPhone I think) with a $20 BlueTooth OBD-II connector.
 
Not sure if its an A/F or O2 sensor. That sensor is only being used after it warms up in closed loop. The rear sensor has no effect on the injector timing. The shudder may not be from the A/F or O2. Just a thought

Good luck
 
My truck is a Cali emissions truck and is still on the original sensors and my truck has gotten a bit stinky from the tailpipe on startup and it has a shudder (not misfire) that settles about 30 seconds after startup and wondering if either of the sensors has gone bad but not throwing a CEL.
I did a search but it's alot wading thru all that info trying to find what I want.
Do I need to replace both sensors or just replace the rear one first?
And what's the Denso part # and where the cheapest I can find it?

My MPGs have been under 15mpg but a short 1 mile round trip commute isn't helping.

Your Cali emissions model uses an air/fuel ratio sensor precat vs. the normal ol' oxygen sensor that was on the federal models.

Pretty common for the Air/Fuel ratio sensor on Cali emissions models to fail resulting in high carbon monoxide levels, poor running, and fuel economy without setting a trouble code.

They are a bit more difficult to accurately test on the ol' 3rd gens but here are the steps if you wish to diagnose further:

1. Check the rear Oxygen (O2) sensor voltage. See if it is reading high voltage above 0.6 volts indicating rich, or if it is reading low voltage below 0.4 volts indicating lean.

2. If the rear O2 sensor voltage reads low, check for exhaust leaks.

3. Add supplemental fuel and see if the fuel trims go negative and if the rear O2 sensor voltage jumps high.

4. If adding supplemental fuel raises the rear O2 sensor voltage, but the fuel trims remain high positive, it could indicate the A/F ratio sensor is not reading correctly.

5. Unplug the front A/F ratio sensor and check for 3.3 volts and 3.0 volts on the White wire and the Black wire at the A/F ratio sensor harness side connector with the key on.

6. With the A/F ratio sensor unplugged, see how the engine runs and how the fuel trims respond and if the CO comes down.

the part can be found here.

http://www.amazon.com/Denso-234-900...sr=8-1&keywords=4runner+air/fuel+ratio+sensor
 
if its your original then i would change it, unless you have less than 100k miles on it, change the one before the cat first, and i would almost bet money that that will fix your issue.
 
If you get a hold of a scanner or app that shows live data to show values for the A/F and rear sensor, you can determine if it is working out of range.

If it original, replace it regardless.

I hope you are doing an Italian tune up on the 4runner at least twice a month.
 
I'm just over 180k miles so I'll be replacing it regardless but thanks for the info. Will be replacing the original fuel filter too.
 
Ok, going to order my AF sensor off of Amazon but got a multitude of sensors #s, what the right one for my 4Runner?

It does appear it has taken a total crap as the car is idling like a classic V8 and gets rougher the higher speed it's driven. Going to pull the code just to see what it's saying but I'm sure it's the sensor.
 
So I got a PO304 code which is a cylinder 4 misfire; could a bad AF sensor cause this or do I have a problem with possibly the coil pack or spark plug?
 
For a misfire, I'd start with ignition, then fuel, then compression. To make it clearer, start with swapping the coil packs.

I have seen o2 sensors in other makes go bad, throwing a misfire code, but usually it is a P300, not one for a specific cylinder, but since Kyle wrenches to put meat on the table, he may be able to give more real world input. I think there has been one forum member where a misfire code resulted in a bad o2, not A/F sensor.

I think Denso.com should give you their correct model # for the A/F sensor. Replace it, even if it is not the culprit. Your 4runner will thank you for it.
 
I actually doubt it's the o2 or A/F sensor if the problem occurs at start-up. The exhaust sensors play no role in engine management at start-up when the ECM is in Open Loop mode. That said, 180k a new A/F is wise PM move.

Running ugly and throwing a misfire code, I would first replace plugs (NGK or Denso only) and wires (NGK, Denso or OEM Sumitomo) if they are due (30k+ for plugs, 100k+ for wires.) I pretty much refuse to attack a misfire on anything if I have not replaced the plugs first. Sometimes they are bad out of the box or badly gapped.

Look carefully at old plugs and keep track of which cyl they came from. Are they all the same? Wet or dry? Burnt? Do this even if not due for replacement. Plug inspection is a great diagnostic tool. Every Haynes manual has plug pics on the inside back cover (same for all cars).

Then, swap the coil pack on cyl 4 with another to see if misfire moves if it is still there.
 
Last edited:
Plugs and wires will be changed anyway but hopefully no compression issues. I'm not getting any signs from the tailpipe and the oil looks fine.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,312
Messages
3,554,089
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top