No label on timing belt

[warriorwagner]

I've seen pic on the forum of stickers on timing belts that have been replaced will miles and date, I have no sticker on my timing belt cover with 236,000. It's been to the dealer three twice last year and I took it two months ago when I bought it and had all the fluids changed and they didn't mention anything.

Should I be worried or did they just not put a sticker on?

 

[3bears]

the dealer can put in your vin and print out all service done by a Toyota dealer for the history of the rig

I would be concerned if not knowing

 

[98OzarksRunner]

You can go to toyota.com/owners and register, enter the VIN. It will list any service done at a Toyota dealer back to about 2005. If a Toyota dealer did the timing belt it should be listed.

 

[warriorwagner]

You can go to toyota.com/owners and register, enter the VIN. It will list any service done at a Toyota dealer back to about 2005. If a Toyota dealer did the timing belt it should be listed.

I've already registered my 4Runner on the site and it shows some recent work, but nothing past last year and the timing belt is not shown and no sticker.

Should I get a kit and change it? Can I do it myself or let the dealer do it?

 

[LookAtThatDog]

Take off the cover and see what the belt looks like before you do anything crazy

 

[afg10000]

Take off the cover and see what the belt looks like before you do anything crazy

Is there a cheater way to take a peek at the belt without removing the upper coolant hose?

 

[warriorwagner]

Is there a cheater way to take a peek at the belt without removing the upper coolant hose?

Great question, I'd hate to spend $1000 on replacement and not need it, and you know the dealer would not stop in the middle and say it's not necessary. I looked at the DIY steps on belt replacement and I think it's out of my abilities. I'd probably try to find a shop (other than the dealer) to do it for me.

 

[jeremyc74]

With that many miles you'd be coming up on the 3rd recommended belt change even if it was changed at 160k. If it were me I'd get a look at it, but I'd plan on changing it unless you can find out when it was last done.

With that said, the belts will go a lot longer than 80k as long as the water pump isn't leaking. I just did mine at 200k, and I'm pretty sure it was last done at 80k. It was still running fine, but the belt was defiantly due for replacement.

 

[warriorwagner]

With that many miles you'd be coming up on the 3rd recommended belt change even if it was changed at 160k. If it were me I'd get a look at it, but I'd plan on changing it unless you can find out when it was last done.

With that said, the belts will go a lot longer than 80k as long as the water pump isn't leaking. I just did mine at 200k, and I'm pretty sure it was last done at 80k. It was still running fine, but the belt was defiantly due for replacement.

Thanks, I guess I'll have to start looking for someone to do it for the best price. I really didn't want to spend $800 right now. UGH!!!

 

[csp]

Do it yourself. It's not a difficult job. If you have the ability to turn a wrench you really can do it.

 

[GHARP57]

If you want to PM me your VIN I will look it up for you in the Toyota Database. I can tell you if it was ever done

 

[gamefreakgc]

I'm going against the stream to say you can wait.

I've read of original timing belts make it over 200k miles. A lot of people get them to go for 100k-150k with no issues. And if it ever did snap, all you have to do is get it towed. A little bit of a hassle, but if you don't have the money for it right now don't stress.

What you do want to look for is if you ever get coolant leaks from the bottom of the timing belt cover (bottom front of engine, there's a little drain hole in the plastic). If you water pump starts leaking there, then you'll need to get it done. A bad water pump will overheat your engine. Luckily they give you the coolant warning sign before they go.

 

[shadow247]

It is possible to inspect the timing belt without removing the upper rad hose. Just slide the clamp for the upper rad hose way down the hose, once you remove the bolts for the cover, you can simply slide the cover down the hose a bit, at least enough to see the timing belt for inspection.

You can remove the upper hose when the engine has been sitting over night with minimal coolant loss, so if you can't get a good look by just sliding the cover back, it's really not a big deal.

 

[warriorwagner]

If you want to PM me your VIN I will look it up for you in the Toyota Database. I can tell you if it was ever done

PM sent, let me know if you get it.

Thanks

 

[TheDurk]

I'm going against the stream to say you can wait.

I've read of original timing belts make it over 200k miles. A lot of people get them to go for 100k-150k with no issues. And if it ever did snap, all you have to do is get it towed. A little bit of a hassle, but if you don't have the money for it right now don't stress.

What you do want to look for is if you ever get coolant leaks from the bottom of the timing belt cover (bottom front of engine, there's a little drain hole in the plastic). If you water pump starts leaking there, then you'll need to get it done. A bad water pump will overheat your engine. Luckily they give you the coolant warning sign before they go.

Timing belts definitely last way over the 90k spec. The water pumps fail more frequently than the belts, and if original at 200k the WP owes you nothing. When I was figuring out how I wanted to time my TB changes, I read the whole megathread at YotaTech, and I learned that most TB failures were caused by something else, such as leaky or seized WP's, flaccid tensioners, or locked up idlers.

The early warning on the WP is any sign of leakage behind the timing cover. If I had a truck with that many miles, I'd eventually do a full TB, tensioner, idlers, WP change-out for peace of mind and to have a known age on those parts. But I would certainly take a peak as soon as I got it home to look for a cracked or fraying belt and any WP leakage which would move that job to the top of the list.

The TB job is not for just anyone. You need a little courage and experience to go that deep into an engine, plus a good set of 1/2" drive sockets with a torque wrench that will do the spec 217 ft-lbs. on the CS bolt.

For the record, I stretched my first change to 120k and then I did tensioner, both idlers, WP, TB, 'stat, hoses and aux. belts. At 170k today, I have full confidence in that part of my engine out to 240k, which I should hit in 2019 or so. Then I'll do the rad, too. (I have a 5-speed, so no trans cooler to fail on mine.)

 

[jeremyc74]

The TB job is not for just anyone. You need a little courage and experience to go that deep into an engine, plus a good set of 1/2" drive sockets with a torque wrench that will do the spec 217 ft-lbs. on the CS bolt.

.)

No doubt. And don't forget about the tool to hold the crank pulley while you're torquing it. I'd say for most backyard mechanics this is going to take about a full day to do, and that's assuming you've done your research and don't have to make a lot of trips to the store to pick up tools and parts.

Getting the tension off the power steering pump is a PITA by itself. The dealerships want about $1200 to do the job. I'm guessing I spent more than $500 in parts (that's the Aisin kit from Amazon, drive belts, and including the tool to hold the crank pulley and compress the tensioner), so it's a matter of how much your time is worth at that point. I'm not sure I would do one for $600.

 

[WallyWest]

It is possible to inspect the timing belt without removing the upper rad hose. Just slide the clamp for the upper rad hose way down the hose, once you remove the bolts for the cover, you can simply slide the cover down the hose a bit, at least enough to see the timing belt for inspection.

You can remove the upper hose when the engine has been sitting over night with minimal coolant loss, so if you can't get a good look by just sliding the cover back, it's really not a big deal.

Yep, this works just fine. I did this last week on mine and the belt looks fine, no leaking I can see. This is at 155k miles on the original belt. I assume anyway, no mention of TB change in the service history and the sticker on the cover is in Japanese, lol.

I would do this right away but I've got bigger fish to fry right now, leaking output shaft seal on the transfer case for one. Gonna keep an eye on it but I'm hoping to get another 10k or so before changing it.

 

[warriorwagner]

No doubt. And don't forget about the tool to hold the crank pulley while you're torquing it. I'd say for most backyard mechanics this is going to take about a full day to do, and that's assuming you've done your research and don't have to make a lot of trips to the store to pick up tools and parts.

Getting the tension off the power steering pump is a PITA by itself. The dealerships want about $1200 to do the job. I'm guessing I spent more than $500 in parts (that's the Aisin kit from Amazon, drive belts, and including the tool to hold the crank pulley and compress the tensioner), so it's a matter of how much your time is worth at that point. I'm not sure I would do one for $600.

Did the tool to hold the crank pulley and compress the tensioner come with the kit? I'm looking at this kit:

Toyota Timing Belt Kit Water Pump Genuine OE Manufacture Parts 3 4L V6 5VZFE | eBay

I think it comes with the tensioner, doesn't it?

 

[jeremyc74]

Did the tool to hold the crank pulley and compress the tensioner come with the kit? I'm looking at this kit:

Toyota Timing Belt Kit Water Pump Genuine OE Manufacture Parts 3 4L V6 5VZFE | eBay

I think it comes with the tensioner, doesn't it?

The tensioner is in that kit, but not the tools to compress it, or the hold the crank pulley.

Also, that listing is a little deceptive. It states "OE parts" in the title, but then when you read down it says they're aftermarket. That doesn't look like the Aisin water pump to me, and I didn't see any mention of the brand on the belts. The pricing looks a little too good to be true IMO. I'm not saying they're bad parts, only that they're questionable.

 

[warriorwagner]

The tensioner is in that kit, but not the tools to compress it, or the hold the crank pulley.

Also, that listing is a little deceptive. It states "OE parts" in the title, but then when you read down it says they're aftermarket. That doesn't look like the Aisin water pump to me, and I didn't see any mention of the brand on the belts. The pricing looks a little too good to be true IMO. I'm not saying they're bad parts, only that they're questionable.

Thanks for the heads up, but I think after doing "a lot" of research online and on this site, I'm going to start calling around and have someone who knows what they're doing install the TB for me. When I start dealing with lining up cam marks and "top dead center" things, I can only imagine me getting something wrong and totally destroying my engine. If I can find someone to do it for around $800-$1000, I'll be happy.

Thanks