No start...bad AM2 fuse.

D

D'arce

New member
Went to the store this evening, ended up being towed home.
Came back out from shopping and no start, no click. I thought it was odd. Usually theres a click if its a bad connection or low bat. Standing with key in ignition and door open all was quiet. Then all of a sudden the door chime starts singing. Thats weird too. Once I got home I popped the under hood fuse cover and AM2 is blown. I don't know whats run through it but it was a no start. I pulled the starter relay and jumper 3/5 and starter kicks so thats fine. Relay checked out, and I have a spare. Could it be this simple? I'm going to order all the fuses in this block because I ripped the tops off 3 of them just trying to pull and reseat them. Kinda bummed about that.

What could cause AM2 to blow and leave a fellow stranded?
Also anybody have a link to these fuses or part numbers?

Thanks
 
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D'arce said:
Went to the store this evening, ended up being towed home.
Came back out from shopping and no start, no click. I thought it was odd. Usually theres a click if its a bad connection or low bat. Standing with key in ignition and door open all was quiet. Then all of a sudden the door chime starts singing. Thats weird too. Once I got home I popped the under hood fuse cover and AM2 is blown. I don't know whats run through it but it was a no start. I pulled the starter relay and jumper 3/5 and starter kicks so thats fine. Relay checked out, and I have a spare. Could it be this simple? I'm going to order all the fuses in this block because I ripped the tops off 3 of them just trying to pull and reseat them. Kinda bummed about that.

What could cause AM2 to blow and leave a fellow stranded?
Click to expand...

This might help.
AM2 30 amp fuse keeps blowing | Tacoma World
 
Endlessblockades said:
Along these lines, what's an efficient way to accumulate a set of backup fuses and relays for these trucks?
Click to expand...

A pack of micro-fuses from the parts store is a good start. You can store them in the empty slots in your engine bay and dash fuse blocks, also there's storage for 3 under the engine bay fuse block lid plus a puller. 10A and 15A are the most common but a couple of 5A and 20A are needed based on your year.

For relays, not so much. Most of the relays in the engine bay are unique and a few are not removable, meaning the entire fuse block has to be removed and disassembled to get them out. The others are probably corroded so bad they will also smash to pieces upon removal. That's been my experience so far.
 
The capacitor had blown its guts out so that immediately fixed the no start.
I did not realize the 80 and 100amp fuses are bolted in. I was pulling and pulling and ripped it in half before I figured it out. The replacement had prongs so I assumed they slid into a socket. I had never seen that before...having to disassemble the fuse block to swap fuses. It was also two different size sockets, I mean dang! Dumbest idea ever. While I had it apart I went ahead and coated everything in dielectric grease.
 
D'arce said:
The capacitor had blown its guts out so that immediately fixed the no start.
I did not realize the 80 and 100amp fuses are bolted in. I was pulling and pulling and ripped it in half before I figured it out. The replacement had prongs so I assumed they slid into a socket. I had never seen that before...having to disassemble the fuse block to swap fuses. It was also two different size sockets, I mean dang! Dumbest idea ever. While I had it apart I went ahead and coated everything in dielectric grease.
Click to expand...

I learned that the hard way, years ago too. Glad you got it figured out.
 
Its possible that fuse itself got enough oxidation on it that they burn. I know I seen oxidation in fuses in my older rigs. Being these are 18 plus years old now with some of them pushing 25 years old. It's quite possible the fuse oxidation burnt it. Just as a thought.


Yes watch those big fuses they are bolted on dont remove without removing the bolts and wires. :(

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
 
D'arce said:
I have the 2.7 4-banger.
Click to expand...

Me as well. I think the 96 3rz is the only one to still have a distributor.

I changed out my distributor base this year with a new one from Toyota. Old one was weeping oil through the shaft seal. Put a new capacitor in at the same time.
 
Kanoe said:
Me as well. I think the 96 3rz is the only one to still have a distributor.

I changed out my distributor base this year with a new one from Toyota. Old one was weeping oil through the shaft seal. Put a new capacitor in at the same time.
Click to expand...

1996 3rz still had a distributor??? Interesting. I figured Toyota had those all phased out before 1995.:-)
 
TheDurk said:
Sorry, I forgot about those.
Click to expand...

How could you forget about the 2.7? I mean I'm thankful as all getup that its still running at 265k miles but damn its slow. After 2 years I've finally mastered the between 1st and second gear shift "I'm sorry I'm a slow a&$ turd and shouldn't have pulled out in front of you" wave.
 
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