2ndgenmafia
New member
Well ran into a problem... I can't for the life of me get the bolt off of the harmonic balancer.
no start issue after KS replacement.
- Thread starter 2ndgenmafia
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2ndgenmafia
New member
I have turned the engine over by hand many times, I can not get both cams to line up with marks on timing belt cover... It's either one or the other but it's never both. How do I fix that?
2ndgenmafia
New member
Any help would greatly appreciated... I need to get this thing back on the road
2ndgenmafia
New member
All I have is a chilton.. I'm used to sbc 350. I'm mechanically inclined but ohc scare the heebie jeebies outta me lol. I prefer push rods.. But anyways get the belt and it's really as simple as rotating the cam gear? First I have to get the balancer bolt off. Can't get the engine not to turn.
mholme
Member
This is a non interference motor. You can move the cams by hand to get the marks to line up.
As for the balancer bolt, there are lots of homebrew ways to get the bolt off. I use a 4ft padded cheater over the breaker and wrap a chain around the frame and through two of the crank pulley bolts. You will probably have to replace them with longer bolts. You will still have to lean on it quite a bit to get it to break loose. Throw a heavy towel over the chain setup incase something lets go. That's why I pad the cheater bar too.
As for the balancer bolt, there are lots of homebrew ways to get the bolt off. I use a 4ft padded cheater over the breaker and wrap a chain around the frame and through two of the crank pulley bolts. You will probably have to replace them with longer bolts. You will still have to lean on it quite a bit to get it to break loose. Throw a heavy towel over the chain setup incase something lets go. That's why I pad the cheater bar too.
2ndgenmafia
New member
So if both of my cam pulleys do not line up on to the timing belt cover.... My timing for sure jumped a few teeth...correct?
mholme
Member
Not necessarily. Spin it at the crank a couple times to see if you don't get them aligned. Pull the distributor CAP and check rotor position is at or near #1 cyl. Here's a good diy to follow.
1995 3vze Timing belt removal and replacement "With Lots Of Pics" - YotaTech Forums
1995 3vze Timing belt removal and replacement "With Lots Of Pics" - YotaTech Forums
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2ndgenmafia
New member
Passenger side cam pulley lines up but driver side does not. Also... I'm stuck now and don't know what to do. I tried the starter trick with a breaker bar and all it did was strip the bolt...
mholme
Member
Yikes..how badly is it stripped? Will it still turn the crank with a socket on it? That is a reason why I don't do that "trick". With a breaker bar and extension in hand, you are in control and know the socket is lined up vs the crank bolt spinning up against a breaker bar hitting the frame, that may or may not stay in place. With the extension in hand, it feels like the bolt head is shearing off, but it's just loosening.
flyinhawaiian01
New member
Done the bar/starter trick several times now, but you NEED to use a 6 point deep socket, preferably an impact socket, do keep this from happening!
At this point, if its stripped, you will probably not get that bolt out without major work. Heating the bolt will help, but it will most likely damage the seal, so be prepared to replace it once you get that bolt out. I'd say, if you just can't get a socket to work, use one of these things with an impact gun:
FAQs | Grip-Tite
There are a lot of different types of bolt extraction sockets out there, they even have some at walmarts, just gotta find the one that will work.
Question though, why are you even having to remove the harmonic balancer anyways? Set it at 0º, slip the belt off the cam gears, set the cams to their marks, then slip belt back on. install tensioner then rotate 360º and double-check that it has not moved. If it has, release tension, adjust however many teeth necessary to bring the cams back to proper timing.
I'd also suggest downloading the TSRM for your year! Chiltons manuals just suck! I'll make it easy for you, save this link off to your hard drive, I'll be removing this file in a couple of days:
http://kolohe.net/t4r/30l_v6_%20engine%20overhaul%20procedures.pdf
You'll want to start reading around page 16 I believe.
At this point, if its stripped, you will probably not get that bolt out without major work. Heating the bolt will help, but it will most likely damage the seal, so be prepared to replace it once you get that bolt out. I'd say, if you just can't get a socket to work, use one of these things with an impact gun:
FAQs | Grip-Tite
There are a lot of different types of bolt extraction sockets out there, they even have some at walmarts, just gotta find the one that will work.
Question though, why are you even having to remove the harmonic balancer anyways? Set it at 0º, slip the belt off the cam gears, set the cams to their marks, then slip belt back on. install tensioner then rotate 360º and double-check that it has not moved. If it has, release tension, adjust however many teeth necessary to bring the cams back to proper timing.
I'd also suggest downloading the TSRM for your year! Chiltons manuals just suck! I'll make it easy for you, save this link off to your hard drive, I'll be removing this file in a couple of days:
http://kolohe.net/t4r/30l_v6_%20engine%20overhaul%20procedures.pdf
You'll want to start reading around page 16 I believe.
flyinhawaiian01
New member
Oh yeah, you're probably not going to get the timing belt's markings to line up since you can't get the balancer off. That's okay, just do it the old fashioned way! ignore the bottom markings since you can't see them anyways. Set crank to 0º, set the cam gears to their markings. Slip the belt around the crank then slip it onto the left cam gear, lining up its mark with the belt. If its not there, slip the belt s'more to get it there. You can now assume its on the mark at the crank. Get the right cam gear's marks lined up, slip belt on properly, get tensioner back onto belt. rotate 360º and double check that all three parts are lined up. put it back together.
nevada
Senior Member
you need a quality 6 point socket.
if that fails, you may need to weld another nut onto it.
2ndgenmafia
New member
So what your telling me is.... Marks on the belt mean nothing as long as crank and cam pulleys are lined up, slide the belt back on and should be good? How will I see the crank is at 0* if the balanced is not off?
flyinhawaiian01
New member
The marks on the belt itself are there for INITIAL SETUP. Once the engine turns though, they will continue to be in different places depending on however many rotations it takes for it to "align" once again.
If you cannot get the balancer off, then your only alternative is to use the "0" setting on the crank's timing mark and the balancer. Set left cam to "0", install the belt with its left cam mark aligned to the left cam, then play with the belt to take the slack up between the left cam and the crank. Once you get the slack out on the left, try to line up the right cam belt mark with the right cam, hopefully it will install properly and you don't have any slack in the right side.
Turn engine 360º, check the timing marks on the CAMS and CRANK, not the BELT, by setting the crank at "0" and verifying the cams are still on their marks. If they aren't, you'll need to slip the belt off one of them (most likely the right cam IIRC), turn the cam to its correct mark, then slip the belt back on. rotate one more time to verify its correct now. If not, do the above procedure until it is correct. Chances are, you get it on the 2nd try.
Pic for some sort of reference:
The 5MGE engine is very similar to the 3VZE with dual overhead cams, and I've had to do it this way, oh, I dunno, 6 or 7 times, due to a horribly designed oil passageway that leaks right behind the belt, and no amount of rtv fixes it!
If its really that hard to do for you, only other option is to just get that balancer off. This is dangerous, but I've done it before. Get a ½" impact gun, one that's strong, throw a deep socket on the bolt, pound it on with a hammer if you have to since the bolt is stripped. Use a universal joint and an extension to get to the bolt from either underneath the radiator or pull the radiator and run through the front of the truck. Hit it with all the gun's mite and it should come off. If not, heat the bolt with a torch and do it again. Be very careful with the torch though, the balancer is fused with rubber and will melt if you heat it too much. Get ready to replace front main seal if you do heat it, you will NOT want to redo this again if you don't replace it and get an oil leak.
These engines are, for the most part, relatively easy to work on, so long as you have the toyota manual handy and lots of metric tools.
If you cannot get the balancer off, then your only alternative is to use the "0" setting on the crank's timing mark and the balancer. Set left cam to "0", install the belt with its left cam mark aligned to the left cam, then play with the belt to take the slack up between the left cam and the crank. Once you get the slack out on the left, try to line up the right cam belt mark with the right cam, hopefully it will install properly and you don't have any slack in the right side.
Turn engine 360º, check the timing marks on the CAMS and CRANK, not the BELT, by setting the crank at "0" and verifying the cams are still on their marks. If they aren't, you'll need to slip the belt off one of them (most likely the right cam IIRC), turn the cam to its correct mark, then slip the belt back on. rotate one more time to verify its correct now. If not, do the above procedure until it is correct. Chances are, you get it on the 2nd try.
Pic for some sort of reference:
The 5MGE engine is very similar to the 3VZE with dual overhead cams, and I've had to do it this way, oh, I dunno, 6 or 7 times, due to a horribly designed oil passageway that leaks right behind the belt, and no amount of rtv fixes it!
If its really that hard to do for you, only other option is to just get that balancer off. This is dangerous, but I've done it before. Get a ½" impact gun, one that's strong, throw a deep socket on the bolt, pound it on with a hammer if you have to since the bolt is stripped. Use a universal joint and an extension to get to the bolt from either underneath the radiator or pull the radiator and run through the front of the truck. Hit it with all the gun's mite and it should come off. If not, heat the bolt with a torch and do it again. Be very careful with the torch though, the balancer is fused with rubber and will melt if you heat it too much. Get ready to replace front main seal if you do heat it, you will NOT want to redo this again if you don't replace it and get an oil leak.
These engines are, for the most part, relatively easy to work on, so long as you have the toyota manual handy and lots of metric tools.
flyinhawaiian01
New member
And ignore the red and orange text in that image! Forgot to edit it to say CAM instead of BALANCER!
Still too early and not enough coffee yet! :redbrick:
Still too early and not enough coffee yet! :redbrick:
flyinhawaiian01
New member
OOPS! That is correct! 2 revolutions, not one! :redbrick:
2ndgenmafia
New member
What is 2 full revolutions? i made marks myself on the belt, turned the engine over 2x and never saw em again
2ndgenmafia
New member
do i have to install the tensioner before i rotate the engine over 2x? because i have done it 2x now and each time it was 1 tooth off. would the tensioner not being installed cause that?
