I really, really, really want to the Taco Whip Mod. To that end, some quick research yielded
The "Tacoma" Whip Antenna Mod
By: Bob_98SR5
Date: 12-19-2002
Tools Needed
Flat-bladed Screwdriver
Philips-head Screwdriver
10mm rachet wrench
Parts
Antenna Assembly: 86300-35090 (list price $36.94)
Tacoma Whip antenna: 86309-AA040 ($27.38 at my dealership)
Please note that the Tacoma Whip Antenna is not picture above. If you want the Tacoma black whip antenna, buy part no. 86309-AA0400 and NOT 86309-35100 or 86309-32011. Also, I've received some feedback that the part numbers may have changed. If so, just ask for the non-motorized antenna assembly for a 4runner and a black whip antenna for the Tacoma.
Thanks to UKMyers from Yotatech.com who provided the following part number in this thread for 2nd generation 4Runners: Toyota Part # 86300-35070 (2nd gen 4Runners)
Addendum: 5/13/06
Based on the information in this writeup, a Yotatech member figured out how to do this mod without removing the wheel well liner. Read here.
Disclaimer
I am providing this write up for illustrative purposes only. Perform at your own risk. Any mods (including this one) you perform on your vehicle is your responsibility. Commercial use of this write up will result in legal action as well as the undying scorn from members of the online Toyota 4Runner community. You've been warned.
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Summary
One of the most common problems with any vehicle including the 4runner is its power antenna. Over time, the antenna mast's "teeth" usually breaks because the "teeth" themselves (that is part of the mast itself) wear out. In other cases, the mast is simply bends or breaks which will not allow it to retract back into the motor unit.
One solution is to buy a replacement mast, remove the old one, and hope that the new one feeds itself perfectly into the motor unit. However, many times the mast "teeth" breaks inside the motor unit itself, requiring removal and opening of the motor unit in order to remove these pieces of teeth.
An alternative solution is replacing the motorized unit with a non-motorized antenna assembly with a non-motorized (obviously) mast antenna. The advantage of doing so is that you really don't have to worry about anything motorized breaking ever again. Furthermore, the whip antenna is tough---I've hit many low hanging tree branches and the antenna just twangs itself right back into place. A motorized mast, I'm sure, would have snapped in half.
Step 1: Removing the Fender Flare and Running Board End Cap (front)
Depending on your type of fender flare trim and running boards, remove these pieces in order to access the wheel well lining:
After removing these trim pieces, you need to remove 2 of the 3 wheel well lining plugs. Here is a diagram of what you need to remove as well as a close up of one plug removed:
Step 2: Remove Wheel Well Lining
After removing the wheel well plugs, pull and invert the wheel well lining so you have enough room to access the motor unit. Don't worry, the material will not crack or break. The material is very similar to a kiddie pool, only much thicker and more durable:
Step 3: Removing the Antenna and Bezel Nut
At the top of the mast, unscrew the bezel nut by wrapping your flat bladed screwdriver with masking tape and putting the side of the blade into the bezel notches. Turn counter-clockwise to remove.
Unless you run like Speedy Gonzales, you might call your friend to help you here. To remove the broken mast, turn off your stereo and let the mast retract as far as it can go. Then ask your friend to turn the stereo back on. While it is going up, pull it up until it comes out of the unit. You will see the metal antenna and a long, white strip of "teeth." Some people have tried with some success to just pull it out, but my dealership advised me to pull it out this way.
Step 4: Removing the Motorized Unit
Unplug the power wire that is connected to the motor unit. Then unbolt the single bolt holding the motorized unit to the bracket inside the wheel well. Unfortunately I didn't take a picture of the motorized unit prior to removal, but here a blurry picture of the non-motorized one after installation (the bolt is the same):
You can now partially detach your motorized unit. You will see that there is a wire leading into the body of the 4runner. This is the antenna wire that connects to the back of your stereo. If you intend to possibly re-use the motor again, do not cut this wire (like I did). To remove it, continue reading below.
Step 5: Removing the Passenger Side Bottom Panel and Front "Radio" Panel
The antenna wire starts from the motor unit itself into the 4runner passenger compartment area, above the A/C duct, and into the back of the stereo. Here is the path it takes to get there:
You must remove both the passenger side bottom panel and front center "Radio" panel to properly remove the antenna wire. To remove the passenger side bottom panel, unscrew the following screws to remove the glove box and bottom panel:
To remove the rest of the radio panel,
follow this excellent writeup that SLC_Punk wrote, which is contained in Yotatech's "Tech" section. Go as far as "Step 5" in Travis' write up and continue below or follow the
writeup here under Step 3.
