Not getting power to Head Unit

[eyekantbeme]

Not getting power to Head Unit 2000 SR5

This is on a 2000 SR5 and everything was working until recenntly things started dieing. I changed 2 bad fuses, but Im guessing maybe there's more.....

So I know I have a functioning head unit and I have connected all my wires properly to the aftermarket harness i bought. It still has not done a damn thing, the stereo turns on when connected directly to the battery, but not through the direct connection from where the stock amp used to be.

I did find 2 blown fuses, but have replaced them and still nothing. So basically no power is going to the amp cord, but the fuses are good from what Ive seen......so what gives you think?

Also lights dont work in cabin if that helps with clues. I have not checked all the fuses under the hood also. I did check the one ACC or ECC one or maybe ECU (under the hood) I dont know what to do or where to go from here.

I think I might have cause a short because I believe the wires were touching at one point while the HU was plugged in (exposed wires) So yeah....... :\

Please help. Thank yoU!

Jeremy

 

[riceandpho]

post the year, if its a 4th gen check both radio fuse under the hood, theres 2 of them, and the inside as well, also dome light, theres a fuse for that under the hood.

 

[eyekantbeme]

Sorry bout that.....it's a 3rd Gen 2000 SR5 will edit info in original post, is it the same for a 2000 the radio fuse?

 

[knightrider]

Sorry bout that.....it's a 3rd Gen 2000 SR5 will edit info in original post, is it the same for a 2000 the radio fuse?

check all the fuses under the dash 1st, use a dmm to verify and then if ALL show good proceed to under the hood to where the main cars power distribution center is and check those fuses are. use the dmm there also. the fused block in the cabin under the dash is for all driver and passenger electronics. the hood is for larger amp items and fot the entire car. but under the hood also provides power to the fuse block in the cabin so if a fuse is blown there u will see the problem ur having now.

 

[eyekantbeme]

check all the fuses under the dash 1st, use a dmm to verify and then if ALL show good proceed to under the hood to where the main cars power distribution center is and check those fuses are. use the dmm there also. the fused block in the cabin under the dash is for all driver and passenger electronics. the hood is for larger amp items and fot the entire car. but under the hood also provides power to the fuse block in the cabin so if a fuse is blown there u will see the problem ur having now.

Yeah I check the ones in the cabin there were 2 bad ones the turn one because my signals werent working for a while, after I changed that one they were fixed, and the ACC or ECC or whatever that ones called, I replaced that one as well. Now they are all good, visually and with the multimeter. I didnt check the ones under the hood, that's the next, need I check them all? Thanks!

 

[eyekantbeme]

FIGURED IT ALL OUT. The dome fuse under the hood was fried.......I only have a 25 capacity amp fuse to replace, but Ive heard that that's okay? Thanks!

Jeremy

 

[riceandpho]

nope, i only use the same or 5 amp higher max, some guy here did like 20 or 30 on the headlight one and fried there whole box up and such.

 

[eyekantbeme]

nope, i only use the same or 5 amp higher max, some guy here did like 20 or 30 on the headlight one and fried there whole box up and such.

Because the fuse doesnt blow when it's suppposed to?

 

[skweak59]

This is on a 2000 SR5 and everything was working until recenntly things started dieing. I changed 2 bad fuses, but Im guessing maybe there's more.....

did you get this all figured out? i have noticed that if you use the "amplified" plug the pin out isn't always correct. i normally pull the factory amp out and use a standard toyota harness. (metra part no. 70-1761 best kit no. BHA-1761)

 

[eyekantbeme]

did you get this all figured out? i have noticed that if you use the "amplified" plug the pin out isn't always correct. i normally pull the factory amp out and use a standard toyota harness. (metra part no. 70-1761 best kit no. BHA-1761)

Yeah everything works now, took out the stock amp, have the right harness and now have everything hooked up, including the subs

Getting through the firewall was nice and easy using a hole on the bottom middle of the firewall on the right side. was easy, just pried it open with a really big flathead, and slipped or more like pushed my power wire through It has a plastic tube around it too, so no chafing

the only thing that doesnt work now is the speedometer lights.... :\ probably overlooked a fried fuse oh well, it's not too bad, but I definitely wouldnt mind having it fixed

Thanks for all the help you guys.

Jeremy