Not Too Confident in My LFD Off Road 3/4 Rack :solved:

[uh0h50]

Made the jump from originally utilizing their ruggedized crossbars + my OEM rails to their 3/4 rack. The rack itself is well made as I had expected. However, the instructions state to utilize the (8) OEM bolts to hold the rack down to the vehicle. LFD supplies aluminum spacers to be installed beneath the rack mounting points, and the (8) OEM bolts go through.

Now, herein lies my problems. The OEM bolts are too long by close to 1/4" and come nowhere near securing the rack and there is no way I am risking over tightening. Second, I foresee guaranteed issues with water collection. The instructions state to apply RTV around the plastic bolt guides and into the holes themselves. But even in doing so, I can state with confidence that water will build/collect, which has the potential to a open a whole 'nother can of worms.

The bolt length issue itself isn't too big of a deal. I can add spacers or something. It is what it is. But the water collecting issue is my big concern.

We have rain in the forecast and was running out of daylight with the install, so had to throw the OEM rails back on. Hopefully some folks here can provide some guidance, remedies and perhaps let me know if you had the same issues.

Thanks for looking!

 

[MaddoxPics]

I just installed their roof rack, full sized, and know what you mean about the tightening and it feeling like you're going to strip something. You won't, it just gets tough. You may also want to make sure your rack is aligned properly. Your bolt could be going be at a slight angle, though it's hard to tell.

With it being a little cooler I allowed my silicone 48 hours to cure, and I washed my vehicle yesterday after a wheeling trip. No leaks whatsoever.

Just be sure to apply a decent bead of silicone around the gap where the tube and body is. Also, if you want to be extra careful, use some plumbers tape on the bolts themselves. I always do that for extra security.

 

[uh0h50]

I just installed their roof rack, full sized, and know what you mean about the tightening and it feeling like you're going to strip something. You won't, it just gets tough. You may also want to make sure your rack is aligned properly. Your bolt could be going be at a slight angle, though it's hard to tell.

With it being a little cooler I allowed my silicone 48 hours to cure, and I washed my vehicle yesterday after a wheeling trip. No leaks whatsoever.

Just be sure to apply a decent bead of silicone around the gap where the tube and body is. Also, if you want to be extra careful, use some plumbers tape on the bolts themselves. I always do that for extra security.

I appreciate the reply! Man, honestly it feels like they bottomed out at every hole I tried. And I think I read that the nuts that they bolt into are only spot welded and you are into mess with having to replace if you snap one. The rack was for sure aligned properly. Was your full rack also supplied with the aluminum spacers that I described?

 

[TheBlandRunner]

The spacers are 304 stainless steel not aluminum. Using rtv or something similar and following the directions will keep water from entering your vehicle. I have installed 3 different versions of the lfd rack on my vehicle and have had no issues with water getting in.


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[Anand]

LFD Full length here, but I'll echo the rest, solid bead of silicone around the holes and I did a dab on each bolt (in the hole) as I was installing. I definitely remember them getting "tight", but not tight to where I was worried about anything

 

[MaddoxPics]

I appreciate the reply! Man, honestly it feels like they bottomed out at every hole I tried. And I think I read that the nuts that they bolt into are only spot welded and you are into mess with having to replace if you snap one. The rack was for sure aligned properly. Was your full rack also supplied with the aluminum spacers that I described?

Mine are steel spacers, I don't think any of them are aluminum, but could be wrong.

Steel spacers, rails, and I did like 50/50 steel and aluminum crossbars.

Obviously do what you think is best, as you are the one there and I'm not, but I'm pretty confident you are running into what I did, and it's just getting tough.

 

[LFD_Off_Road]

Hey, the bolts being longer isn't an issue, they won't bottom out in the roof. There is open space where they are going into the roof. I've actually got my headliner loose in mine, Ill try to grab a photo today of the rear mount so you can see.

As long as you seal around the holes well, you won't have any issue.

I have only heard of three people that have had leaks after installation. The common thing with all the leaks - each had a very obvious gap with the silicone. Reapplying the silicone and reinstalling the racks stopped the leaks each time.

Just a side note, the spacers and silicone is the same method that several other rack companies are also using for installation.

If you have any further questions, please let us know!

ETA the spacers are indeed 304 stainless steel.

 

[pDubs]

......"I foresee guaranteed issues with water collection".......... "I can state with confidence that water will build/collect"

Without any proof other than being paranoid, those are some hard claims.

Every other rack (BajaRack, Prinsu, Gobi, FrontRunner, SSO etc) does a pretty much identical process.

YouTube

YouTube

YouTube

YouTube

YouTube

 

[TRD4x4is16]

You can see in one of Swell Runner's YouTube vids what the bolts look like under the roof (his is a front runner but same process). You can see how he screwed up and fixed his if you watch whole thing. He a pretty down to earth guy.

YouTube

Should start at 25:45

 

[uh0h50]

Mine are steel spacers, I don't think any of them are aluminum, but could be wrong.

Steel spacers, rails, and I did like 50/50 steel and aluminum crossbars.

Obviously do what you think is best, as you are the one there and I'm not, but I'm pretty confident you are running into what I did, and it's just getting tough.

You are correct. They are stainless.

 

[uh0h50]

You can see in one of Swell Runner's YouTube vids what the bolts look like under the roof (his is a front runner but same process). You can see how he screwed up and fixed his if you watch whole thing. He a pretty down to earth guy.

YouTube

Should start at 25:45

Thank you for the vid. This helps me visualize exactly what's underneath. I still can't explain why the bolts got to a point where I did not feel confident on continuing to tighten.

 

[uh0h50]

Without any proof other than being paranoid, those are some hard claims.

Every other rack (BajaRack, Prinsu, Gobi, FrontRunner, SSO etc) does a pretty much identical process.

YouTube

YouTube

YouTube

YouTube

YouTube

Yup, possibly paranoia. I just can't fully see how this is a comparable approach to that of the Toyota's approach for weather-proofing. I totally understand that this is aftermarket, but is a great choice in brand at that. LFD is a completely standup company.

Well, the rack is on and I am beyond stoked. RTV should be cured by now. I found these small washers at the hardware store to fill the bolt slack.

 

[uh0h50]

Hey, the bolts being longer isn't an issue, they won't bottom out in the roof. There is open space where they are going into the roof. I've actually got my headliner loose in mine, Ill try to grab a photo today of the rear mount so you can see.

As long as you seal around the holes well, you won't have any issue.

I have only heard of three people that have had leaks after installation. The common thing with all the leaks - each had a very obvious gap with the silicone. Reapplying the silicone and reinstalling the racks stopped the leaks each time.

Just a side note, the spacers and silicone is the same method that several other rack companies are also using for installation.

If you have any further questions, please let us know!

ETA the spacers are indeed 304 stainless steel.

Thank you for the reply LFD!