Octanejunkie's T4R project - 99 SR5 4WD 5-speed

I really hope that is 14.69-14.89V - otherwise you are hurting your new battery and maybe some of your interior electronics.



Even then, that's a bit high of a charging voltage for AGM...



-Charlie
Agm charging range looks like 14.6v to 14.8v.

Good call Charlie. Good call. I personally just run the standard lead acid batteries that are 98% recycled. Nothing exotic for me.

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I really hope that is 14.69-14.89V - otherwise you are hurting your new battery and maybe some of your interior electronics.



Even then, that's a bit high of a charging voltage for AGM...



-Charlie
I will test and validate those numbers on a cold start tonight. The plan is to pull the diode when I install the CS144 alternator and put the stock 7.5 fuse back

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Tested the charging voltage of the factory alternator with the diode installed.

Cold start : 15.3-15.5+v
Warmed up, 700 rpm/idling : 14.8-15.05v
Warmed up, 3000 rpm/driving : 14.93-15.03v

Agm charging range looks like 14.6v to 14.8v.

Good call Charlie. Good call. I personally just run the standard lead acid batteries that are 98% recycled. Nothing exotic for me.

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A basic Google search reveals the same, however, I looked at East Penn Manufacturing, the maker of my battery, and in their FAQ write :

"What is the maximum charging voltage for a 12 volt AGM battery?

It must not exceed 15.4 volts. If a charger/setting has been verified to not exceed 15.4 volts to a low current, the charger/setting is acceptable."

That being the case, I tested the charging voltage of the factory alternator with the 7.5A factory fuse installed.

Cold start : 14.4-14.9v
Warmed up, 700 rpm/idling : 14.3-14.90v
Warmed up, 3000 rpm/driving : 14.4-14.53v

All the while, the ECU reads and reports between 12.9-13.4v, usually 13.0v (using Torque Pro) while running regardless whether the fuse or diode were installed.

I removed the diode because it appears the factory alternator is providing enough charging voltage.

Thanks for the advice and info [MENTION=139000]phattyduck[/MENTION] and [MENTION=164664]brillo_76[/MENTION]
 
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Tested the charging voltage of the factory alternator with the diode installed.

Cold start : 15.3-15.5+v
Warmed up, 700 rpm/idling : 14.8-15.05v
Warmed up, 3000 rpm/driving : 14.93-15.03v



A basic Google search reveals the same, however, I looked at East Penn Manufacturing, the maker of my battery, and in their FAQ write :

"What is the maximum charging voltage for a 12 volt AGM battery?

It must not exceed 15.4 volts. If a charger/setting has been verified to not exceed 15.4 volts to a low current, the charger/setting is acceptable."

That being the case, I tested the charging voltage of the factory alternator with the 7.5A factory fuse installed.

Cold start : 14.4-14.9v
Warmed up, 700 rpm/idling : 14.3-14.90v
Warmed up, 3000 rpm/driving : 14.4-14.53v

All the while, the ECU reads and reports between 12.9-13.4v, usually 13.0v (using Torque Pro) while running regardless whether the fuse or diode were installed.

I removed the diode because it appears the factory alternator is providing enough charging voltage.

Thanks for the advice and info [MENTION=139000]phattyduck[/MENTION] and [MENTION=164664]brillo_76[/MENTION]

So on your particular AGM the charging red line is 15.4v. Good to know.

The ECU reading tells you that your voltage regulator was functioning properly. As it was keeping the circuitry 12.9 to 13.4

Good job octanejunkie.. :-)
 
Weekend Update: 254,365

My elusive coolant leak came back so decided to swap the thermostat gasket.

Drained coolant, removed alternator belt and removed the thermostat housing. The juggle valve was at 2:00

The nut at 10:00 on the thermostat housing brought the entire stud out with it, yay, other than that, no issues.

Reinstalled the same thermostat with a new gasket, PN 16325-62010, and clocked the jiggle valve to 6:00.

Torqued the stud and 2 nuts to 14# ft in 3 stages. So far so good.

Driving around I actually noticed slight higher temps with the jiggle valve at 6:00, but not by much, 2-4° or so.

Got tired of the fading clear coat on my hood and somehow still getting blinded by reflection and glare so I had my hood wrapped.
4935daa417eac3fdedbf5503f034f728.jpg

da28ac2cb83c2cc2e73737a19369669e.jpg


VViViD[emoji2400] Black True R Carbon Fiber Vinyl Wrap Roll with Air Release Technology (4 Foot by 5 Foot) https://a.co/d/3NCVjJ5

Picked up the material from Amazon and found a local installer in South Bay willing to bro me a deal on the install, he even let me help (invaluable opportunity)
 
Last edited:
Weekend Update: 254,365

My elusive coolant leak came back so decided to swap the thermostat gasket.

Drained coolant, removed alternator belt and removed the thermostat housing. The juggle valve was at 2:00

The nut at 10:00 on the thermostat housing brought the entire stud out with it, yay, other than that, no issues.

Reinstalled the same thermostat with a new gasket, PN 16325-62010, and clocked the jiggle valve to 6:00.

Torqued the stud and 2 nuts to 14# ft in 3 stages. So far so good.

Driving around I actually noticed slight higher temps with the jiggle valve at 6:00, but not by much, 2-4° or so.

Got tired of the fading clear coat on my hood and somehow still getting blinded by reflection and glare so I had my hood wrapped.
4935daa417eac3fdedbf5503f034f728.jpg

da28ac2cb83c2cc2e73737a19369669e.jpg


VViViD[emoji2400] Black True R Carbon Fiber Vinyl Wrap Roll with Air Release Technology (4 Foot by 5 Foot) https://a.co/d/3NCVjJ5

Picked up the material from Amazon and found a local installer in South Bay willing to bro me a deal on the install, he even let me help (invaluable opportunity)

I like the wrap. Matte black is such a great color on these trucks and very practical. So glad I found mine with that paint job already done on the whole thing, so much less to worry about.
 
Love the wrap, Mike. I'm a fan of carbon fiber so naturally I dig this. Looks like it turned out great. And it's pretty cool that they let you give them a hand installing it.

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Neighbor has it on his AEV bison JK. Second JK he's had done actually. I really do like it.

I've been kicking around the idea of wrapping my 99' black sport model.... mainly since the line X body application that looks like paint came with an $8,000 quote....
 
[MENTION=95183]octanejunkie[/MENTION] how hard was it to put in on scale of 1-10. Does it lay down like graphics, or is it stretchy and you need lots of heat gun action?
 
[MENTION=95183]octanejunkie[/MENTION] how hard was it to put in on scale of 1-10. Does it lay down like graphics, or is it stretchy and you need lots of heat gun action?
The first time, a sport hood a 9. Lots of heat gun and lots of peeling and unpeeling, strategic stretching around corners, and working out bubbles and ripples.

The material I chose, which was rather inexpensive, is 3M and high quality, but is very aggressive and is not the type of material most detailers choose to work with. Do more research around the material and that nine will become more like a six or a seven

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The first time, a sport hood a 9. Lots of heat gun and lots of peeling and unpeeling, strategic stretching around corners, and working out bubbles and ripples.

The material I chose, which was rather inexpensive, is 3M and high quality, but is very aggressive and is not the type of material most detailers choose to work with. Do more research around the material and that nine will become more like a six or a seven

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Interesting. 3M makes great stuff though. Easily the best window tint I've experienced so far.

Real question is do you think you do the whole car?
 
Interesting. 3M makes great stuff though. Easily the best window tint I've experienced so far.

Real question is do you think you do the whole car?
No, I won't do the entire car, because once you scratch this material there's no patching it

Truthfully, if I could have gotten a color matched wrap material with a matte finish I would have preferred that over the carbon fiber

I may not be committed to it long-term, but I wanted to try it. I envisioned myself repainting the entire truck someday, and I still May

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If you don't mind me asking, but how much did it cost to have the labor done to wrap it? Just curious on what this would look like.

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If you don't mind me asking, but how much did it cost to have the labor done to wrap it? Just curious on what this would look like.

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Most shops quote over $300 wrap a hood. Mine was around half of that.

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Most shops quote over $300 wrap a hood. Mine was around half of that.

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Oh very nice. Sounds like you caught a really good deal then. Would love to see some close up pics of the edges and stuff. Does it wrap the underside as well or just the top?

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I've got some catching up to do on this thread. Is the blaring glare on the hood you talk about only when you have the lights running, correct?

If so just move them to the bumper. Everyone that puts the lights up high like that has that problem.

The ARB has great mounting points and the design allows you to just drill new points to put the lights.

Just just a just a thought:)
 
Thanks, look at post 365 in this thread, the link is there.

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Yes thanks I did see that but in your subsequent post you stated a 3M product but 3M isn't mentioned in the Amazon ad. other than the optional 3M adhesion primer sold separately. Just wanted to clarify.
 

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