Oem audio plus broken wires

bluetaco

New member
Hello all,
IÂ’m hoping someone can help me. I noticed the sub wasnÂ’t working so I pulled it out and found the blue and black wire are broken off at the connector that plugs into the sub box. It looks like they plug into the same pin but was hoping for some verification. Thanks
 
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What do you want help with? they need to be re-attached.

For the price, I'd be making OEM Audio replace the harness associated with this.
 
Just making sure that the wires go to the same pin. I left an email and phone message with them. I’m sure they will do me right but I was hoping to have it working for a road trip.
 
How many pins have broken wires in the connector. That should answer the question.

Looks like some cheap wires, connectors, and poor terminations right there.

OEM Audio is garbage.

Butthurt OEM Audio suckers in 3...2...1....
 
Once they get back to you with a wiring diagram or instructions on how to repair it, I'd double check your lines to see if there's a reason it got pulled out of the harness in the first place. If there's binding somewhere along your route you should probably fix that or it'll just happen again
 
How many pins have broken wires in the connector. That should answer the question.

Looks like some cheap wires, connectors, and poor terminations right there.

OEM Audio is garbage.

Butthurt OEM Audio suckers in 3...2...1....

OEM Audio sucker here,

Super butthurt :shrug:
 
I looks like those wires were over crimped and broke off as a result. If you remove that pin from the connector (which you'll probably have to do anyway) you should be able to tell that and if both were in the same pin. If you double up in a pin, you need to reduce the crimping force to prevent cut wires. I would check the others.
 
How many pins have broken wires in the connector. That should answer the question.

Looks like some cheap wires, connectors, and poor terminations right there.

OEM Audio is garbage.

Butthurt OEM Audio suckers in 3...2...1....

Yeah..... Right......

LOVE my OEM Audio setup!
 
Wow! Im surprised by the response to this question. Thanks to those who gave thoughtful insight and comments. To the others, I don’t get the hate towards the brand. I didn’t ask how well built you thought it was or any opinion for that matter. Isn’t this supposed to be a forum about our joint passion for the 4Runner that we all own?
 
So, does it look like they both came from the connector on the right? See if there are broken wires still in the crimp. If you’re handy with a soldering iron and can handle delicate jobs like a surgeon you could de-pin that connector and solder the wires in the pin. Then re-insert it into the connector body. First test if those wires make it work by temporarily poking them into the exposed pin. If you don’t feel comfortable with that take it to the dealer and let them repair it.
 

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Just an FYI the blue and black wires do go in the same pin. Still waiting for them to let me know what they are gonna do. I’m Not real thrilled with the process so far.
 
I ended up making it work by joining the blue and black wire together, then dropping solder into the pin with the wires. Not great but it’ll work till they give me a permanent fix.
 
I ended up making it work by joining the blue and black wire together, then dropping solder into the pin with the wires. Not great but it’ll work till they give me a permanent fix.


Being an amateur radio aficionado I feel your pain on sloppy work. After enlarging your picture I agree that it was over crimped and some of the wires cut. 2 wires in 1 pin is tough. However as someone else said, there is a reason it totally broke and that should be found. Maybe it was just you and handling the connection. Been there, done that! Those type of connectors are good but can be a pain to work with. If you think your solder connection is good and not a cold joint then leave it be because you will make it worse. A cold joint means that both wire and connector was not hot enough to make the solder flow and bond to each surface or was in motion upon cooling. I’ve done both. Causes intermittent connections. Test with a continuity tester by wiggling the wires. You can use an ohm meter but that requires looking at the meter and moving the wires at the same time. If it’s good, call it a day and enjoy your system.
FWIW, I have tried to make it perfect and ruined one too many connectors!

Cheers!


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