Oil additives. Anyone use?

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Is anyone using oil additives like Lucas or Prolong? If so, how are the results?

Hi stir_fry_boy,

The way that Toyota built the 4.0L, 1GR-FE V-6 engine (imho) truly leaves no reason to improve on the recommended 0W-20 full synthetic oil, or it's lubrication system. Yes, the hydraulic valve-train is somewhat noisy; especially immediately after start-up when the engine is cold, but you'll never remedy that using additives... 'tis in it's DNA! It is a TRUE 'truck engine,' built for power, reliability, and some serious longevity. "Here's a link to it's description": 1GR-FE Toyota engine ...I think that the biggest, most proactive thing you can do to assure it's mechanical health is to change the oil at intervals 'as recommended by Toyota'! ...my 0.0002 cents,

Best!
 
Hi stir_fry_boy,

The way that Toyota built the 4.0L, 1GR-FE V-6 engine (imho) truly leaves no reason to improve on the recommended 0W-20 full synthetic oil, or it's lubrication system. Yes, the hydraulic valve-train is somewhat noisy; especially immediately after start-up when the engine is cold, but you'll never remedy that using additives... 'tis in it's DNA! It is a TRUE 'truck engine,' built for power, reliability, and some serious longevity. "Here's a link to it's description": 1GR-FE Toyota engine ...I think that the biggest, most proactive thing you can do to assure it's mechanical health is to change the oil at intervals 'as recommended by Toyota'! ...my 0.0002 cents,

Best!

I have a few reservations about saying it was built for power lol.
 
I've always used STP oil treatment in all of my other vehicles. Once my free dealership oil changes run out I'll more than likely continue the tradition with this truck.
 
If you get a high quality, API SN Rated, full synthetic oil, you will not be improving the additive package already in the oil. Oil manufacturers design additive packages for each oil type to meet or exceed the API SN requirements (currently the highest level tested by API), and every manufacturer uses different combinations and additives to achieve these results. The potential is there to actually decrease the effectiveness of the manufacturers package with an additive you introduce (you don't know if something you add interacts with what is already in the oil). It isn't only a waste of money, but has the potential to degrade engine oil performance.

If you want another reference, read the post by dnewton3 on this page: oil additive ?? | Passenger Car Motor Oil (PCMO) - Gasoline Cars/Pickups/Vans/SUVs | Bob Is The Oil Guy
 
You do know the advantage of synthetic oil right?
It already has the best additives in it....

Everything else you want to add is money down the drain. But if it makes you sleep better at night, have at it.
 
Toyota oil and Mobil 1 are top-of-the-line, they trade on their quality, not cost, so I presume they will have the best additives already. Cheap oil might cut corners. Even then, I have no reason to believe additives will actually help more than frequent oil changes and good filters.

So no, I do not use oil additives, as they may contribute to combustion chamber deposits or adversely affect O2 sensors or cats, but yield unknown benefit.

Stop leaks are a different story, but not relevant here.
 
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I have a few reservations about saying it was built for power lol.

Hi SKP-4R,

Haha! Well, just think about it... This conservative 4.0L / 241CI V-6 aluminum block develops 270 hp @5600 rpm, torque is set at 278 @4400. It has 6 bolt mains (built-up for large torque and high revs), close tolerance connecting rod and main bearings (hence the need for light weight oil). It uses two 'very noisy' timing chains instead of the traditional rubber belts, and has a 4 inch bore and stroke (or square displacement); not too many 'Production' V-6's can boast that... and to me, that's built for power! Truth is... I'd prefer to have a large displ V-8 under the hood; 'had it been available', but to me, this built-up V-6 is the very next best thing!
 
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Hi SKP-4R,

Haha! Well, just think about it... This conservative 4.0L / 241CI V-6 aluminum block develops 270 hp @5600 rpm, torque is set at 278 @4400. It has 6 bolt mains (built-up for large torque and high revs), close tolerance connecting rod and main bearings (hence the need for light weight oil). It uses two 'very noisy' timing chains instead of the traditional rubber belts, and a 4 inch bore and stroke (or square displacement); not too many 'Production' V-6's can boast that... and to me, that's built for power! Truth is... I'd prefer to have a large displ V-8 under the hood; 'had it been available', but to me, this built-up V-6 is the very next best thing!

The engine has plenty of power, it's the trans that delivers it too "softly".
If you actually push the skinny pedal on the right side down, the revs come up and acceleration is quite good. Problem is with normal driving, the engine doesn't usually get above 2,000 rpm and so it feel anemic.
 
Hi SKP-4R,

Haha! Well, just think about it... This conservative 4.0L / 241CI V-6 aluminum block develops 270 hp @5600 rpm, torque is set at 278 @4400. It has 6 bolt mains (built-up for large torque and high revs), close tolerance connecting rod and main bearings (hence the need for light weight oil). It uses two 'very noisy' timing chains instead of the traditional rubber belts, and has a 4 inch bore and stroke (or square displacement); not too many 'Production' V-6's can boast that... and to me, that's built for power! Truth is... I'd prefer to have a large displ V-8 under the hood; 'had it been available', but to me, this built-up V-6 is the very next best thing!

Agreed. 270hp is adequate but it really needs something in the 300+ range. I would love to see a turbo diesel where all the power is nice and low but we all know that's not going to happen any time soon. Makes you wonder if tacoma sales will drop what with the Chevy Colorado having a diesel.
 
Agreed. 270hp is adequate but it really needs something in the 300+ range. I would love to see a turbo diesel where all the power is nice and low but we all know that's not going to happen any time soon. Makes you wonder if tacoma sales will drop what with the Chevy Colorado having a diesel.

You couldn't pay me to buy anything with a bowtie on it.... or anything domestic for that matter. I've been down that road. The quality control, repair records and reliability have gotten better... but it still isn't great. I guess I'm Toyota for life.

My husband is looking for a vehicle to tow his car on a trailer to races. I cringe at the thought of another Ford diesel, knowing how much cash I spent on maintenance alone with my '01 Excursion diesel.... I can already see him dumping thousands into a vehicle he uses 4-6 times per year.

:heh:
 
I haven't used additives since the mid 1980's when GM marketed EOS. I think that today's oils are so far advanced from that period that no additives are necessary, or even desirable. Today's additive packages that are already in the oil are tailor made for a purpose, and I have no desire to mess with that chemistry.

Just my $.02
 
If you get a high quality, API SN Rated, full synthetic oil, you will not be improving the additive package already in the oil. Oil manufacturers design additive packages for each oil type to meet or exceed the API SN requirements (currently the highest level tested by API), and every manufacturer uses different combinations and additives to achieve these results. The potential is there to actually decrease the effectiveness of the manufacturers package with an additive you introduce (you don't know if something you add interacts with what is already in the oil). It isn't only a waste of money, but has the potential to degrade engine oil performance.

If you want another reference, read the post by dnewton3 on this page: oil additive ?? | Passenger Car Motor Oil (PCMO) - Gasoline Cars/Pickups/Vans/SUVs | Bob Is The Oil Guy

Good advice everyone. In my 02' with over 200k miles I noticed that the engine was much quieter with Prolong additive. I like it a lot, and according to research I've read about tests with oil and oil + additives, Prolong generally adds some sheer strength (which is what reduces wear) when added with some oils. The top performer according to what I read was Penzoil Ultra Platnium 5w30 with Prolong. It had the highest sheer PSI of any other oil or combination.

After 2 oil changes in my 02' with the Penzoil and Prolong combination, I sent my oil in for UOA at Blackstone. They were impressed with the results, and said that my wear numbers were lower than average at OCI of 5,500 miles. There bulk of my miles are very short trips, about 3 miles one way.

The above is the reason why I asked about additives in 0w20.

I'll be using Toyota oil and filter in my 15' only with no additives.
 
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I personally like and use Amsoil fluids (that already have their own additives) along with Liqui Moly additives, specifically "Cera Tec" and placebo or not, I am tossing one in every one to two years with the Amsoil (this changed twice a year) :dammit:.

Makes me feel better :biggrin2:
 
Just throw a $10 bill in the toilet and flush it. It will save you a trip to the auto store. :-)

I read empirical data to prove that Prolong with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w30 reduces wear of an engine vs Pennzoil Ultra Platinum alone. I'm not flushing any money down the toilet.

My engine runs quieter, smoother and I get better gas mileage with the Prolong as well. That's not wasting money. I bet in the 5,500 miles the .5 MPG I save makes up for the cost of the Prolong.

I have not seen any data with regards to 0W20 oil.
 
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I read empirical data to prove that Prolong with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w30 reduces wear of an engine vs Pennzoil Ultra Platinum alone. I'm not flushing any money down the toilet.

My engine runs quieter, smoother and I get better gas mileage with the Prolong as well. That's not wasting money. I bet in the 5,500 miles the .5 MPG I save makes up for the cost of the Prolong.

I have not seen any data with regards to 0W20 oil.

What is the empirical data that proves your combination reduces wear of an engine?

A UOA with "better than average results for 5.5k OCI" is not, by itself, proof that it reduces wear. The same company, doing the same UOA, after driving the vehicle in IDENTICAL conditions, with AND without the additive, is a start. It does not prove a reduction of wear, however.

The cold start rating of motor oil (0w-20 vs. 5w-20) has very little to do with the manufacturers additive package and whether an aftermarket additive will be effective or not. So, if you feel (read: believe) that your Prolong+Pennzoil combination works with 5w-20, there's nothing that suggests it should be different with 0w-20. That said, I would trust the engineers that design the oil, and the analysts that test it (API), more than the kid at the Autozone desk telling you about his (anecdotal) great experience with an additive.

Check out Bobistheoilguy.com for oil testing and results that match your needs. Some oil is designed for greater efficiency (MPG), others for HD (towing), some for stop and go driving. Pick a good oil and stick with it. The Folks who designed it have more letters after their names than you and I. And empirical data...
 
I read empirical data to prove that Prolong with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w30 reduces wear of an engine vs Pennzoil Ultra Platinum alone. I'm not flushing any money down the toilet.

You might be. Maybe Toyota oil prevents wear better than pennzoil with prolong. It's awfully hard to know for sure, because the data needed to make the comparison is expensive and difficult to get.

My engine runs quieter, smoother and I get better gas mileage with the Prolong as well. That's not wasting money. I bet in the 5,500 miles the .5 MPG I save makes up for the cost of the Prolong.

I have not seen any data with regards to 0W20 oil.

It may well run quieter, smoother I cannot explain, and your mpg increase may be real. You can calculate the savings. At 15.5 mpg (what I am getting right now), 5,000 miles uses 322 gallons of fuel. At 16.0 mpg, 312 gallons. 10 gallons saved, at gas prices over $1.00/gal, the mpg savings exceed the additive cost.

This presumes that the additive has no unknown deleterious effects, which it probably does not. But might....

To test your mpg gain, you need to have a friend add, or not add, the prolong without telling you. After several cycles of both, you can fairly calculate the difference.
 

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