Oil Change 5th Gen: How To- LOTS of PICS!

I've read a lot of complaints about the Assenmacher tool sticking. For any tool that does this, simply rock it from side to side gently with an extension attached to the tool. This will break it loose. Do this before taking the oil filter housing off.

The PBT 71113 tool does not stick to the housing. I use it on the 5th Gen 4 Runner and my '06 Avalon

http://www.amazon.com/Private-PBT71...=UTF8&qid=1432146194&sr=8-2&keywords=pbt71113

Do not waste your $$$ on this one if you plan to use it on a 5th Gen 4 Runner. Does not fit over the "metal indicator tab". See page 1 of this thread(photos) if you don't understand what "metal indicator tab" is. Using Antman's term. It works on the '06 Avalon, but fits loosely and will not hang on to the housing on its own like the PBT 71113 will:

Toyota Lexus Scion Special Oil Filter Wrench Tool Large Size | eBay
 
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I got the Assenmacher Toy640 filter wrench, and it does fit the housing well. The problem with it though, is it gets stuck on the filter housing each time I use it, and is kind of a PITA to get off.

[MENTION=52619]Whiplash Willy[/MENTION] / [MENTION=68101]Hawaiian4runner[/MENTION]

What you do guys think of this one from AutoZone?

OEM/Oil filter cap wrench for most Toyota 25412 at AutoZone.com - 7 reviews

Edit : Or this one
http://www.autozone.com/shop-and-garage-tools/oil-filter-wrench/oem-oil-filter-cap-wrench-for-toyota-and-lexus/255634_0_0/
 
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Looking at the pictures alone were enough to convince me that I won't be changing my own oil. Now that I've thought about it for a few weeks, has anyone tried remote mounting the oil filter to a better location where you don't have to rip off air dams, flow diverters and armor to access it? We already dump a ton of oil into this thing anyway, what's another 1/2 quart to fill some lines to a remote mount?
 
[MENTION=52619]Whiplash Willy[/MENTION] / [MENTION=68101]Hawaiian4runner[/MENTION]

What you do guys think of this one from AutoZone?

OEM/Oil filter cap wrench for most Toyota 25412 at AutoZone.com - 7 reviews

Edit : Or this one
OEM/Oil filter cap wrench for Toyota and Lexus 25451 at AutoZone.com - 2 reviews

I'd go with door #2 only for the slots. In the end $10 or $20. What's the diff? From the reviews, seems like #1 works. I just think the slots make sense. In reality, I don't think the slots ever even came into play cause the cap portion held well but I've had experience with super cheap stamped steel cap wrenches that just spun on the filter housing and could have used the slots.
 
Looking at the pictures alone were enough to convince me that I won't be changing my own oil. Now that I've thought about it for a few weeks, has anyone tried remote mounting the oil filter to a better location where you don't have to rip off air dams, flow diverters and armor to access it? We already dump a ton of oil into this thing anyway, what's another 1/2 quart to fill some lines to a remote mount?

I had this very thought today myself. With all of that room under the hood, what is really preventing the filter from being moved to a more serviceable location? Honestly, I haven't yet removed the skid plate and taken a look at the set up with my own eyes, but the question still remains.
 
I had this very thought today myself. With all of that room under the hood, what is really preventing the filter from being moved to a more serviceable location? Honestly, I haven't yet removed the skid plate and taken a look at the set up with my own eyes, but the question still remains.

If it's under warranty, I wouldn't do it. Did you watch my video? It's easier than it looks to do.

On a side note, get a good oil filter wrench.
 
With all of that room under the hood, what is really preventing the filter from being moved to a more serviceable location?


Not meaning to sound like a jerk, but this issue has been beaten senseless. The top of the engine was redesigned. Filter had to be relocated. Search this thread back around page 5 - top of page - post #61. Pictorial post by member Harper7. Best explanation on this forum in my opinion.

You have to get underneath to drain the oil pan, so while you are there, you spin off a housing and insert a new filter element.

Why are people so perplexed by this?
 
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Not meaning to sound like a jerk, but this issue has been beaten senseless. The top of the engine was redesigned. Filter had to be relocated. Search this thread back around page 5 - top of page - post #61. Pictorial post by member Harper7. Best explanation on this forum in my opinion.

You have to get underneath to drain the oil pan, so while you are there, you spin off a housing and insert a new filter element.

Why are people so perplexed by this?

[MENTION=107124]Lester Lugnut[/MENTION] - My bad. I honestly didn't take the time to read the entire thread and I appreciate you pointing me in the right direction to find the information. :thumb3:
 
Not meaning to sound like a jerk, but this issue has been beaten senseless. The top of the engine was redesigned. Filter had to be relocated. Search this thread back around page 5 - top of page - post #61. Pictorial post by member Harper7. Best explanation on this forum in my opinion.

You have to get underneath to drain the oil pan, so while you are there, you spin off a housing and insert a new filter element.

Why are people so perplexed by this?

You're right, he offers a simple easy to understand explanation of why it's not where it used to be. I have no problem with that. But my original question stands unanswered: Has anyone tried a remote mount location for the oil filter so that it's not such a pain to get at?

Toyo put an access panel near the oil drain plug so you don't have to remove everything underneath the bumper to get at it. Why they didn't make the filter as easily accessible is baffling. That part has nothing to do with the engine or engine design. It has everything to do with the air damns and skid plates on the bottom of the vehicle which have to be completely removed every time to change the oil because there's no access through them like there is with the oil drain plug.
 
You're right, he offers a simple easy to understand explanation of why it's not where it used to be. I have no problem with that. But my original question stands unanswered: Has anyone tried a remote mount location for the oil filter so that it's not such a pain to get at?

Toyo put an access panel near the oil drain plug so you don't have to remove everything underneath the bumper to get at it. Why they didn't make the filter as easily accessible is baffling. That part has nothing to do with the engine or engine design. It has everything to do with the air damns and skid plates on the bottom of the vehicle which have to be completely removed every time to change the oil because there's no access through them like there is with the oil drain plug.

You're losing me. In paragraph 1 you agree that a simple explanation was presented back on page 5 of this thread - why the filter was relocated.

In paragraph 2 you say it has nothing to do with engine design?

I'm not an engineer, but it has everything to do with the filters relocation?

You ask about relocation - remote. This has been brought up before...same thread. I think you'd need a bunch of $$$ and a grad school degree in ME to do that.

If I had that much $$$ and education, I'd find another cause.

Just my 2 cents.
 
You're losing me. In paragraph 1 you agree that a simple explanation was presented back on page 5 of this thread - why the filter was relocated.

In paragraph 2 you say it has nothing to do with engine design?

I'm not an engineer, but it has everything to do with the filters relocation?

You ask about relocation - remote. This has been brought up before...same thread. I think you'd need a bunch of $$$ and a grad school degree in ME to do that.

If I had that much $$$ and education, I'd find another cause.

Just my 2 cents.

Yeah, we're on 2 different pages for sure. I'm not asking about redesigning the engine and the oil flow, or why the filter is no longer top accessible.

I'm asking about using a couple of adapters and some tubing to place the filter in a remote location in the engine compartment which is more easily accessible. Basically instead of the oil going from the engine into the filter, it goes into an adapter, through some tubing, through the filter, then back through a return line through the adapter and back to the engine. Because it's not on the engine it would be considered a remotely mounted oil filter. Since you're adding capacity with the adapters and tubing, you'd also have to add oil to ensure the proper level in the engine. The other concern is appropriate oil pressure, of which I'm not smart enough to comment on at 3am. Maybe [MENTION=66316]1engineer[/MENTION] has better insight on the oil pressure factor?

I did see the question was posed by another user, although it was also not answered. There are oil filter relocation kits for previous gen T4R, but I don't know if they would work with 5th gen and our filter inside of a casing.
 
Yeah, we're on 2 different pages for sure. I'm not asking about redesigning the engine and the oil flow, or why the filter is no longer top accessible.

I'm asking about using a couple of adapters and some tubing to place the filter in a remote location in the engine compartment which is more easily accessible. Basically instead of the oil going from the engine into the filter, it goes into an adapter, through some tubing, through the filter, then back through a return line through the adapter and back to the engine. Because it's not on the engine it would be considered a remotely mounted oil filter. Since you're adding capacity with the adapters and tubing, you'd also have to add oil to ensure the proper level in the engine. The other concern is appropriate oil pressure, of which I'm not smart enough to comment on at 3am. Maybe [MENTION=66316]1engineer[/MENTION] has better insight on the oil pressure factor?

I did see the question was posed by another user, although it was also not answered. There are oil filter relocation kits for previous gen T4R, but I don't know if they would work with 5th gen and our filter inside of a casing.

As far as I know [MENTION=2619]Koz[/MENTION] is the only guy who has done it and he did it on a 4th gen and not a 5th. His write up is here: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/engin...es/10277-amsoil-full-flow-bypass-install.html

I would never relocate the filter just for ease of access. Too many things to go wrong:
1. New possible leak points in hosing
2. Different capacity
3. Filter media in unknown
4. Changes the pressure drop in the system (added volume + head required to push oil to new filter location)
5. Quality of relocation kit

Now, if I HAD to keep the engine running with no issues for 500K+ miles then I would change the filter adapter and canister to a better filter with finer media and improved dirt holding capacity. I would NOT relocate it to the top for ease of access. I would keep it in the original spot as was designed by Toyota.

I'm sure it could be done on a 5th gen 4Runner and it probably would not cause any issues because Toyota over-engineers just about everything to make it reliable and durable. By changing the system though you will cause the oil pump to work a bit harder and when you make anything work harder you reduce the life of the component. No I don't know how much.

General statement:
Contrary to popular belief, engineers don't design things to be difficult to work on or maintain. Actually we try to make it as easy as possible to maintain because good maintenance is the key to long life of any serviceable component. The key here is WHO IS DOING THE SERVICING. I read a statistic awhile back that said only around 12% of vehicle owners still change their own oil. When we design something we design it to be maintained by professionals who have the proper tooling and equipment. I hate to say this but end users (read: you) are not the guys the Toyota engineers had in mind. They designed the filter to be changed on a lift by techs who have all the correct tools, documentation and training, not a guy who only wrenches every six months and is drinking beer while trying to jack up his vehicle in a driveway. Sorry but the truth hurts. If you are going to do it then you need to do it right and doing it right is not cheap.

Lastly, there are times when a design paints us into a corner and we have to do something crappy, like put a bolt where you have to take seventeen things apart first to get to it. We don't do that on purpose. The oil filter location though is not one of them because if you think this location is bad you need to remember there was probably three or four locations initially that were even worse! This is the best location they had!
 
is the maint. light based on 5K mile interval? If so, is there a way to change it to 10K?

If there is it would be my guess that you would need Toyota's Techstream tool to change it. That said, I'd bet a buck the dealer wouldn't want to as all modern Toyota's have something that Toyota wants you to do every 5K.
 
So Toyota recommends Full Syn oil changes at every 10K miles, but the maintenance light is set to 5K miles?

As I have already stated - Toyota has recommended service(s) that are done at 5K intervals. Your 10K oil change is not the only thing going on.

Go read your warranty/maint. interval guide for the details.
 
So Toyota recommends Full Syn oil changes at every 10K miles, but the maintenance light is set to 5K miles?

There are other maintenance items besides oil changes. The light every 5K reminds me to check my belt, check my brake fluid, check my coolant levels and check my engine oil. Sure, you could wait until 10K to visually check these things but a lot can happen in 5K miles. I do the 5K checks myself and then turn off the maintenance light. It only takes a few minutes. I will also visually inspect the suspension, tires and brakes. Every 10K I take it to the shop for oil change, tire rotation and greasing and let them turn off the maintenance light.
 
My "new" 2012 SR5 does not have the piece you refer to as the cover. It only has the splash plate. This should make my first oil change a little bit easier. Have you ever done yours with the front wheels up on ramps? If you have, does all the oil drain out OK? Any advice on this?
 
My "new" 2012 SR5 does not have the piece you refer to as the cover. It only has the splash plate. This should make my first oil change a little bit easier. Have you ever done yours with the front wheels up on ramps? If you have, does all the oil drain out OK? Any advice on this?

Wow 25 pages on an oil change!

I slide under mine and change the oil without ramps. My 2011 SR5 has the big metal plate shown in the beginning of this thread. Not sure what you're referring too as the splash cover.

I had the dealer do 1 oil change and they did manage to snap one of the bolts off....
 

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