Oil Change 5th Gen: How To- LOTS of PICS!
- Thread starter Antman
- Start date
msweet01
New member
Thanks for the great write-up Antman! I changed my oil today and it was super easy to follow along.
I thought my gasket was also stuck on and tried to scrape it off. It looks like I might have actually been scrapping off the oil pan coating not the old gasket. I only scraped off where the gasket makes contact with the pan. Should the drain pan gasket be contacting bare metal?
If not, should I be concerned about corrosion now that the coating is scraped off? What should I do at the next oil change?
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pDubs
New member
I owned a b7 Audi a4. Changing the oil on that thing was the biggest PITA ever.
First off the drain bolt was horizontal so the oil shot straight out to the side. You basically had to guess where to put the drain pan and sometimes you were a little off and had to be ready to quickly maneuver it. You also had to remove the entire plastic undertray as well.
Second, the oil filter was up above the motor mount, front sway bar, and front subframe. It had a valve similar to the 5th gens but if you simply drained it like we do on the 5th gens oil would get all over the sway bar and subrame and make a mess. You had to buy a special drain valve that had a tube coming off it to route to the drain pan and it still didn't work good. The filter housing with a 36mm bolt on the bottom so you had to buy a socket nobody would have.
First off the drain bolt was horizontal so the oil shot straight out to the side. You basically had to guess where to put the drain pan and sometimes you were a little off and had to be ready to quickly maneuver it. You also had to remove the entire plastic undertray as well.
Second, the oil filter was up above the motor mount, front sway bar, and front subframe. It had a valve similar to the 5th gens but if you simply drained it like we do on the 5th gens oil would get all over the sway bar and subrame and make a mess. You had to buy a special drain valve that had a tube coming off it to route to the drain pan and it still didn't work good. The filter housing with a 36mm bolt on the bottom so you had to buy a socket nobody would have.
Coyotegray
New member
Great write-up. Reminds me of doing PMS on trucks and generators in the 90s while in the Navy.. cartridge filters
always a pain..
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always a pain..
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After changing your 4Runner oil, does anyone log into https://owners.toyota.com and log your oil change? Just curious. If you think it is a good idea Antman, you could add this to your writeup.
I just got a 5th generation and I started entering my maintenance into https://owners.toyota.com
| View Your Service Records | + ADD A RECORD
I just got a 5th generation and I started entering my maintenance into https://owners.toyota.com
| View Your Service Records | + ADD A RECORD
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Lester Lugnut
New member
I have logged the maint. I've done on my wifes '14 4Runner and my '15 Tacoma at the site you mention.
Every time I logged in to add another maint. task, all of the previous info was still there.
Until........
I took the 4Runner in for an Entunes TSB. The next time I logged in to add a maint. task for the 4Runner, all of my work had been deleted.
My '15 Tacoma maint. tasks are still on the Toyota site. It has never been taken to a dealership.
Thanks for the heads up!
toyohtadude
New member
Yesterday was my first DIY oil change on the '15 Trail. I've always been a Tacoma guy and we know how easy the oil change is on that. Well, the 4Runner isn't that bad... if it all goes well. Thanks to Antman for this thread, really appreciate the time and effort you put into helping others. Well done!
First thing I noticed... the dealer broke off the bolt on the passenger side holding the plastic cover to the skid plate. Great! So, I commence to removal. After getting the plastic part off, I go to remove the skid plate and the front passenger bolt is stripped. Some techs at some dealers really take no pride in their work. This guy had to know he did this but let it slide... probably figures the next oil change, someone else will get it. I'd like to snap the little tw@t's finger. But, ok... I can fix both, just not that day. I'll pick up a tap and new bolts, easy-out the broken piece and be back in business.
The rest of the process was straight-forward. I was happy to learn that O'Reilly's sold the Toyota tool (from Pennzoil) for $9.99 in metal and fits like a glove. With the first change done and having the correct tool, the next one will be easy. I will not be trusting the local dealer with the rig again. When I was in NH, that dealer never let me down. Now in TX, I'll steer clear of Round Rock Toyota going forward. Not sure how the service is at the Austin dealership...
Here's that tool from O'Reilly's.
First thing I noticed... the dealer broke off the bolt on the passenger side holding the plastic cover to the skid plate. Great! So, I commence to removal. After getting the plastic part off, I go to remove the skid plate and the front passenger bolt is stripped. Some techs at some dealers really take no pride in their work. This guy had to know he did this but let it slide... probably figures the next oil change, someone else will get it. I'd like to snap the little tw@t's finger. But, ok... I can fix both, just not that day. I'll pick up a tap and new bolts, easy-out the broken piece and be back in business.
The rest of the process was straight-forward. I was happy to learn that O'Reilly's sold the Toyota tool (from Pennzoil) for $9.99 in metal and fits like a glove. With the first change done and having the correct tool, the next one will be easy. I will not be trusting the local dealer with the rig again. When I was in NH, that dealer never let me down. Now in TX, I'll steer clear of Round Rock Toyota going forward. Not sure how the service is at the Austin dealership...
Here's that tool from O'Reilly's.
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TOYO74
New member
toyohtadude: Thanks for info on filter removal tool from O'Reilly's--didn't think about looking there!
Re: dealer oil change techs--sometimes I wonder if they are Jiffy Lube graduates. Your experience makes me think about removing the covers before taking mine in for 1st oil change. If there is nothing in their way then maybe they can do it. But then there is the oil drain plug to strip---hmmm, maybe I'll do it instead!
Re: dealer oil change techs--sometimes I wonder if they are Jiffy Lube graduates. Your experience makes me think about removing the covers before taking mine in for 1st oil change. If there is nothing in their way then maybe they can do it. But then there is the oil drain plug to strip---hmmm, maybe I'll do it instead!
Same tool I purchased (same retailer), it works like a champ! I've been to Maund Toyota service several times and they are likely the best in our Metro area. That said, my 4R is usually worked on only by me.
toyohtadude
New member
I'll also be working on mine going forward. The free stuff is over with and I'm not going to pay someone to break things on it. I do have to get the stereo head flashed though for the random rebooting issue... and I want the programming done for the windows (all-up, all-down). I'll give Maund a call.
Also, I don't think the dealer oiled the o-ring AND they were shooting for 200, not 20 when torquing! I was close to grabbing a small breaker bar to loosen it! At least I know it will come off a lot easier next time.
Also, I did not have to remove the skid plate, it hangs far enough out of the way (with the plastic valance undone) to get the filter drained and replaced. Next time, I'll only take out the two bolts and one fastener attached to the skid plate, then let the plate swing.
I purchased the super strong filter socket tool cost $24. socket is extremely strong and has more locking features than the auto store penzoil socket. the reason I purchased this expensive and highly recommended socket is because many on here had problems removing the oil filter due to the oil lube jockies over torquing these.
When I changed my oil myself at 3k miles that socket had perhaps 10 ft lbs required to unscrew it .. my guess is these lube techs over torque every thing including the oil pan drain plug. since it was all factory torqued to spec the oil change was very easy and no issues .
the pan hardware was anti seized and I drove it around for a day then checked again for leaks before the covers were put back.
so from what I have read and experienced is they do not allow time for oil to drain and they do NOT USE any torque measuring .
the free oil changes is just to get more dealership work.
my family member has a toyota truck and at 65K miles they tell him the cam covers are leaking and want $2K to fix... he said I just had it serviced for the whole 65K miles at this dealership , now they tell me its got a leak.
so when I do this type work I check for any leaks anywhere to cover my azz...
oil change surprise
Hello guys this would be my first post. I live near Chicago and since I have bought my 2013 Toyota 4runner SR5 from Orland Park Toyota I had the vehicle serviced there for oil changes. I decided no more after the warranty expired. To sum it all up it has not been a happy journey. One visit they forgot that my vehicle had a Toyota optional running board installed and failed to compensate for them, and while lifting the vehicle they damaged them. Luckily I took pictures before and after fighting with them for a while they provided me with replacement units. My 30k oil change came to a surprise as two grown males could not loosen the oil cap drain plug, plus on top of that the front skid plate bolt was stripped out. Please if you decide to buy your vehicle form a stealership that you do your own maintenance. Lesson learned. Please be advised that they hire interns to do oil changes.
Hello guys this would be my first post. I live near Chicago and since I have bought my 2013 Toyota 4runner SR5 from Orland Park Toyota I had the vehicle serviced there for oil changes. I decided no more after the warranty expired. To sum it all up it has not been a happy journey. One visit they forgot that my vehicle had a Toyota optional running board installed and failed to compensate for them, and while lifting the vehicle they damaged them. Luckily I took pictures before and after fighting with them for a while they provided me with replacement units. My 30k oil change came to a surprise as two grown males could not loosen the oil cap drain plug, plus on top of that the front skid plate bolt was stripped out. Please if you decide to buy your vehicle form a stealership that you do your own maintenance. Lesson learned. Please be advised that they hire interns to do oil changes.
Just did my first oil change and have to say it went quite well after following the great step by steps antman posted. Like others I do question the placement of the canister after 20+ years of changing oil on BMWs where the canister is nicely located on the top/front of the engine. Oh well. I am sure to some engineer and bean counter it made sense ($) to put it upside down behind the skid plate. Hahaha. Only issue I had was with the drain plug gasket. That little felt covered washer was practically glued to the pan. Finally had to knock it off with a hammer and slotted screw driver after lesser methods failed. Hopefully the next time goes better.
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Yep, every time. On my wife's Highlander too.
the_dude33
New member
Oil Change
Did my first oil change today on my truck, previously the dealer had performed the oil change at 10k so I thought I would give it a go with 15k on the clock. Everything went well thanks to [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION] and his well written guide. I had all necessary tools, filter, oil, etc. The trouble came when it was time to remove the filter housing. I was using a 3/8 ratchet w/ Toyota filter wrench and extension. The indicator tab was well over 1" past the alignment notch, unsure of how tight, but well beyond the 18 ft lbs required. The ratchet was not near enough to muscle to canister loose, I switched to the torque wrench that I had nearby for some more leverage, and ditched my creeper because I kept rolling around. Needless to say, I finally got the thing busted loose, and broke the portion of the housing where the tab was located. I think all is well, but have ordered a replacement unit just to be safe. Thankfully with performing my own maintenance, I can avoid this in the future.
Did my first oil change today on my truck, previously the dealer had performed the oil change at 10k so I thought I would give it a go with 15k on the clock. Everything went well thanks to [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION] and his well written guide. I had all necessary tools, filter, oil, etc. The trouble came when it was time to remove the filter housing. I was using a 3/8 ratchet w/ Toyota filter wrench and extension. The indicator tab was well over 1" past the alignment notch, unsure of how tight, but well beyond the 18 ft lbs required. The ratchet was not near enough to muscle to canister loose, I switched to the torque wrench that I had nearby for some more leverage, and ditched my creeper because I kept rolling around. Needless to say, I finally got the thing busted loose, and broke the portion of the housing where the tab was located. I think all is well, but have ordered a replacement unit just to be safe. Thankfully with performing my own maintenance, I can avoid this in the future.
NorthwoodsRunner
New member
What oil filter wrench tool did you use? One like the top or bottom?
I think the bottom one puts too much force on the middle and stand alone tabs and not evenly on the entire filter housing.
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the_dude33
New member
Like the one on top. The one I have is pictured below.
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the_dude33
New member
Where did you pick this up at? Amazon?
I'm getting ready to do my first oil change at 5k. Yes I know Toyota recommends 10K intervals, but I plan to keep my 4runner for a longtime and I think changing oil more regularly early on in an engines life prolongs it.eace:
I did get it on Amazon. Also picked up a really slick funnel made by the same company, it is kinda spendy, but threads right into the filler neck, and really helps control adding oil.
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