Oil Change 5th Gen: How To- LOTS of PICS!

[LargeOrangeFont]

Like the one on top. The one I have is pictured below.

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Same thing happens to me last weekend with that wrench. The center tab with the pointer broke off and through the cap so I had to buy a new $120 cap. I wanted to end myself. The cap was way overtightened by the dealer, I needed a 15 inch breaker bar to get it loose.

I used my dremel to widen the center slot in the wrench so it can't snap off that tab off again.

 

[the_dude33]

Same thing happens to me last weekend with that wrench. The center tab with the pointer broke off and through the cap so I had to buy a new $120 cap. I wanted to end myself. The cap was way overtightened by the dealer, I needed a 15 inch breaker bar to get it loose.



I used my dremel to widen the center slot in the wrench so it can't snap off that tab off again.

Bummer to hear that happened. Glad to know I'm not the only one (unfortunately). I really like the tool, and place the fault on the dealer for over torquing things. New filter assembly coming my way too.


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[LargeOrangeFont]

Bummer to hear that happened. Glad to know I'm not the only one (unfortunately). I really like the tool, and place the fault on the dealer for over torquing things. New filter assembly coming my way too.


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This 4runner seems like it has the most expensive filter cap of them all.. any other Toyota it seems is $30-$40 bucks for a replacement cap. I almost got the Dorman metal replacement for $17, but with it being under warranty still I'm sure any problem I might have will be blamed on the aftermarket filter cap. Luckily a dealer down the street had a cap in stock.

Did the tab snap off an make a hole on yours? Or did it just break off cleanly? Mine broke off and left a hole.

 

[catrains]

Bummer to hear that happened. Glad to know I'm not the only one (unfortunately). I really like the tool, and place the fault on the dealer for over torquing things. New filter assembly coming my way too.

I have the same cap tool you have . did my oil change no oil lube guy touched my 4 runner. so when I removed the filter cap it came off with less force then removal of a spark plug . also all the plugs where not over torqued. all must have be assembled using a torque wrench .. the lube guy does not use toque wrench as you and many others have revealed which is why I got that socket. if you had the $10 Pennzoil socket it would not have come off.

remember the O ring does the sealing NOT how hard you torque it !!! my guess is they also DO NOT replace that O ring !!!

 

[TRDfan2011]

I did get it on Amazon. Also picked up a really slick funnel made by the same company, it is kinda spendy, but threads right into the filler neck, and really helps control adding oil.

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I've always used the plastic quart container from Castrol GTX. I cut off the bottom and now have a funnel. After use, I screw on the cap and place paper towels inside to absorb residual oil then store in a plastic bag till next use.

 

[craigster59]

Did the first oil change on my Trail yesterday. Didn't want to take it to the dealership, if some moron is gonna screw it up that moron will be me.

Well after owning a 2007 Tacoma with the filter on the top of the engine I came away with 2 startling revelations....

1. Get a decent filter wrench. The ones sold at your FLAPS are pretty much worthless.

2. The Toyota engineer who designed this "canister" style filter system should have his nuts pounded flat with a ball peen hammer.

 

[zm1283]

Regarding oil in the housing and the plastic drain plug.

I've yet to change oil on a 5th Gen 4Runner, but no matter. The oil filter housing is pretty much identical to the one used on the 2GR-FE motors. I've changed oil on that motor many times.

When I open up the oil filter box, the first thing I do is throw away the plastic drain tube. I first drain the oil from the bottom engine pan and let it do that for a fair amount of time. This gives the oil filter housing time to cool down. I then remove the oil filter housing with a catch pan underneath; then tilt slightly and pour the oil from the housing into the catch pan. I've yet to see my 2GR-FE oil filter housing have more than approx. 6 oz. of oil in it when removed.

This is is less of a mess than sticking the plastic drain tube up into the bottom of the housing. In my experience, as soon as you start to insert the plastic drain tube up into the bottom of the oil filter housing, oil is on it's way down - all over your hand(s).

Just my 2 cents.

We just got our '16 Trail on Saturday, but I have had a '10 Tundra for about five years now and do my own oil changes. The Tundra's oil change procedure is identical to the 4Runner, except the skid plate removal is a little different. I've gotten the whole thing down to about 30 minutes and it's really easy now.

I only got through about 20 pages of this thread, so if someone talked about this since, I apologize. I got this from the Tundra Talk forum a few years ago. When you go to drain the oil from the filter and use the clear plastic "nipple plug", there is a trick to not getting oil all over yourself. Simply take the plastic "nipple" and put it on the top of an empty wine bottle. Grab the wine bottle and push the nipple up into the filter housing. As soon as it is seated, as you all know, the oil will start flowing right into the wine bottle. You do have to hold it there for a few minutes, but you won't get any oil on you. Just pour the oil from the bottle out into your drain pan and carry on.

 

[Lester Lugnut]

I got this from the Tundra Talk forum a few years ago. When you go to drain the oil from the filter and use the clear plastic "nipple plug", there is a trick to not getting oil all over yourself. Simply take the plastic "nipple" and put it on the top of an empty wine bottle. Grab the wine bottle and push the nipple up into the filter housing. As soon as it is seated, as you all know, the oil will start flowing right into the wine bottle. You do have to hold it there for a few minutes, but you won't get any oil on you. Just pour the oil from the bottle out into your drain pan and carry on.

I believe I've seen that posted here; if not somewhere else. That could work I suppose.

Someone in Japan over-tightened my '14 4R oil filter housing cap so tight that the little round plug on the bottom has never been off. I ended up using it and a 3/8" drive breaker to get the housing off. People on at least one of the Tundra forums actually loctite that plug and use it the same way I do. Not suggesting anyone do that...just sayin'.

 

[MTN4RNR]

First oil change on the 4R; Lesson learned

I read through the 47 pages of "Hey, thanks for the write up", "Damn this this is on tight", and "Well, sh*t" posts. This is a "Well, sh*t" post, but with a lesson learned so no one has the same outcome I did. I used the Pennzoil wrench to remove the filter housing, and was looking from the passenger side of the oil filter cap. There is one notch on the passenger side of the cap, and the filter wrench had 3 marks on each side, opposite each other. I lined up the tab on the cap with one of the outer notches on the socket. That was my mistake. I hadn't looked at the driver's side of the cap, and the 3 tabs that were on it that needed to be lined up properly before torquing on the wrench to loosen it. When I did, one of the plastic tabs snapped off, opening a hole in the cap as others have stated before on this thread. SO. My $130 mistake is your fortune. [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION], can you add the following photos to your initial post so that others with this socket get the alignment right the first time:

The Pennzoil socket:

How the socket should look properly aligned (passenger side) in the CENTER notch:

How the socket should look properly aligned (driver side) all 3 notches lined up (except for the broken tab in the center, whoops):

What happens when you screw up:

Fun times, fixed by beer and fish tacos. I will get the part tomorrow and finish the job. Hope this helps someone else.

 

[NorthwoodsRunner]

The Pennzoil socket:

That Pennzoil oil filter tool looks different; there are two sets of three tabs. My oil filter wrench has one set of three tabs and single tab just like the oil filter housing for perfect fitting. In addition, my tool is much thicker compared to Pennzoil and not as sharp around the tabs.

 

[sweaty]

What oil filter wrench tool did you use? One like the top or bottom?

View attachment 247059

View attachment 247060

I think the bottom one puts too much force on the middle and stand alone tabs and not evenly on the entire filter housing.

My wrench looks like the one at the top, except it doesn't have the teeth.

 

[blackie2]

I bought the same Pennzoil tool and it broke one tab on my wife's Tundra but it didn't crack the cap.

 

[the_dude33]

For those of you that just break off the tab, be aware that there may be cracks that exist. After breaking mine, I planned on replacing the cap for peace of mind,if nothing else. When I dropped the skid one week after the "incident", the cap was seeping oil from where the tab had been. Glad I had the replacement ready to go.


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[MTN4RNR]

For those of you that just break off the tab, be aware that there may be cracks that exist. After breaking mine, I planned on replacing the cap for peace of mind,if nothing else. When I dropped the skid one week after the "incident", the cap was seeping oil from where the tab had been. Glad I had the replacement ready to go.


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Agreed. Any damage to a composite component means that there is now a weak spot in the design. And when it comes to your oil system, the last thing you want is a weak spot, especially if you travel to remote places. I sucked up my pride and ordered another OEM part this morning. Should be here this afternoon. I will probably JB weld the old one as an emergency spare if I need it.

 

[sweaty]

My wrench looks like the one at the top, except it doesn't have the teeth.

My wrench looks exactly like the one that Antman has in his manual. Why do they put teeth on these other wrenches, just so people can break off the tab?:noidea:

 

[champ198]

can someone please post the part number for the push pin for the cover you remove for the oil filter access?

update: Found it. Part# 90467-09227 Mine was mangled by techs removing it for oil changes.

 

[NorthwoodsRunner]

My wrench looks exactly like the one that Antman has in his manual. Why do they put teeth on these other wrenches, just so people can break off the tab?:noidea:

If you have a good oil filter wrench (i.e., tight fit), those teeth will provide extra grip to loosen the oil filter housing. IMO that Pennzoil oil filter does not provide tight fitting at the housing base. In addition that filter tool is too thin and puts too much shear force on the filter housing tabs. I have a set of two: one for small I4 and the other for bigger I4 or V6/V8. I believe Antman filter wrench is very thick like my set sans teeth. I have not encountered any issue with my tool.

 

[MTN4RNR]

If you have a good oil filter wrench (i.e., tight fit), those teeth will provide extra grip to loosen the oil filter housing. IMO that Pennzoil oil filter does not provide tight fitting at the housing base. In addition that filter tool is too thin and puts too much shear force on the filter housing tabs. I have a set of two: one for small I4 and the other for bigger I4 or V6/V8. I believe Antman filter wrench is very thick like my set sans teeth. I have not encountered any issue with...

Yep, I am going to be changing sockets for something more substantial. Where'd you pick up yours?

 

[NorthwoodsRunner]

Yep, I am going to be changing sockets for something more substantial. Where'd you pick up yours?

https://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/TOY112A/TOYOTA-OIL-FILTER-TOOL-6-8CYL/


My Toyota dealer sells one. You can order directly through Matco.

 

[MTN4RNR]

https://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/TOY112A/TOYOTA-OIL-FILTER-TOOL-6-8CYL/


My Toyota dealer sells one. You can order directly through Matco.

Thanks for the information. I appreciate it.