Oil Change 5th Gen: How To- LOTS of PICS!
- Thread starter Antman
- Start date
the toyota engines are operated to break in before shipment . the oil is changed ... this is not a GM engine as I have had every new GM vehicle with engine oil breaking in with metal sludge on new GM engines.
toyota did a great job on the engine break in on my 2016 T4R. oil was like new when I changed it @3K miles.. oil filter clean .
toyota did a great job on the engine break in on my 2016 T4R. oil was like new when I changed it @3K miles.. oil filter clean .
FishnCarz
New member
Great tutorial! Totally convinced me that as long as the dealer has oil change coupons I'll let them deal with it. Had various Jeep XJs from early 1990's until this May, and it was a quick and easy job, just needed a Napa 1515 Gold filter, 6 qts of Mobile 1, basic hand tools and 2 beers. 
FishnCarz
New member
Thanks! If the dealer price goes up I'll probably do my own. Like knowing it was done right and it's always good to know what's going on under there anyway.
Brian
Just followed this guide and it was helpful.
I have the following comments/suggestions (sorry if these have already been mentioned):
- There is no need to go overboard taking apart the front skid plate and plastic trim. You can just undo the 4 bolts holding up that front skid plate and let it hang. It does not get in the way. You do not need to remove any plastic, and certainly no need to grind off part of those hinges.
- When reassembling the filter housing, I found it easier to reinstall the housing drain plug FIRST, before putting the plastic housing back on the engine. That way there is less to do under the vehicle and no risk of disturbing the housing when tightening the drain plug.
I have the following comments/suggestions (sorry if these have already been mentioned):
- There is no need to go overboard taking apart the front skid plate and plastic trim. You can just undo the 4 bolts holding up that front skid plate and let it hang. It does not get in the way. You do not need to remove any plastic, and certainly no need to grind off part of those hinges.
- When reassembling the filter housing, I found it easier to reinstall the housing drain plug FIRST, before putting the plastic housing back on the engine. That way there is less to do under the vehicle and no risk of disturbing the housing when tightening the drain plug.
Baystate4Runner
New member
Anybody know what the 50/40 mark on the dipstick means? It's about 1/2 inch over the excessive marker.
zcruiser
Senior Member
Did my 2012 with RCI skid for the first time since I purchased it in March.
Dang.
Stupid 65mm filter wrench got jammed on the canister and almost couldn’t get it off.
The procedure for draining the filter canister was... ridiculous. Had to get a breaker bar to break the canister loose.
Oh well... saved almost $200 over dealership, and I bought 5 Toyo filters for $25 so I’ll be back in 10K miles. I think I’ll take the skid plate off next time.
Thanks for the tutorial so I knew what to expect.
Dang.
Stupid 65mm filter wrench got jammed on the canister and almost couldn’t get it off.
The procedure for draining the filter canister was... ridiculous. Had to get a breaker bar to break the canister loose.
Oh well... saved almost $200 over dealership, and I bought 5 Toyo filters for $25 so I’ll be back in 10K miles. I think I’ll take the skid plate off next time.
Thanks for the tutorial so I knew what to expect.
Last edited:
ridefast
New member
I declined the dealer toyota care because they couldn't get the 5,000 mile service right so there was no way I was going to let those yahoos do this. Honestly I was surprised as I haven't had an issue with Toyota ABQ in the last 15 years.
Did the oil change yesterday. It wasnt half as bad as i thought. Honestly it took just as long to find my dads smaller torque wrench that could do 10 ft lb(had to call him, it was hanging in the shed next to the bench).
I used The Motivx Filter wrench along with Toyota drain plug gaskets
Toyota oil filter kit
Did the oil change yesterday. It wasnt half as bad as i thought. Honestly it took just as long to find my dads smaller torque wrench that could do 10 ft lb(had to call him, it was hanging in the shed next to the bench).
I used The Motivx Filter wrench along with Toyota drain plug gaskets
Toyota oil filter kit
Last edited:
83Mule
New member
Did my first oil and filter since putting on the RCI alumi skids on my 16. No problem! I pulled the ''window'' on the skid and accessed the filter after just draining the pan through the hole in the skid. The tool fit right on the filter and I took the whole thing 1/2 loose then let it drain into the pan, then twisted it off with my hand and brought it straight down and didn't get ANY oil on the skids at all?! I was shocked! No need to drop the skids for an oil change is NICE!:beer:
IslandJim
New member
On my Last 2015 Tacoma always changed the oil myself but went to the dealer for the 5,000 mile maintenance seeing as it free for 25,000 miles and helped validate the warranty. The first time they were a little questionable about it but they charged Toyota for the oil change and gave me a filter and drain plug gasket each time. They would not give me the oil though which was all right seeing as I used Mobil 1.
This 4Runner will be done the same way although am thinking about doing the 5,000 mile service myself because before they were just rotating the tires, they never lubed the driveshaft at all. Have an electric impact wrench now and don't see the need to wait around at the dealer for something I can do better myself at home now (they really fudged up the paint on my rims with their impact wrenches, guess they thought they were on a NASCAR pit row).
Am also considering going ahead and using Toyotas synthetic oil. Seeing as the change intervals are now at 10,000 miles, the cost really won't be that inhibitive.
Thanks for the post Antman, next time am under the truck may take out those skid plates bolts and put anti-seize on them now so won't have a problem with them later. 3+ hours to read this thread, but their has been a few changes since 2012, still a good thread to read. :cheers:
edit; forgot to ask...someone mentioned earlier they added a magnetic oil drain plug. Where can this be had and what is the part number...thanks...Jim
Last edited:
I would recommend you do the oil changes and tire rotations if you are able . reason is you will do the job properly.
they will not wait for all the oil to drain . they will not inspect for leaks or any other issues like rust.
then they will over torque the fasteners/filter cap and it will get damaged its cheap plastic . the oil they use is in a drum bulk ..better buy mobil 1 oil and get filters from dealership or on line shipment .
I JUST CHANGED THE OIL ON MY 2016 T4R.. I ALSO FIXED ALL THE SMALL RUST SPOTS AND CHECKED THE DRIVE TRAIN FLUIDS.
I would not use dealership engine oil . factory oil created sludge in my vehicle not NOW... mobil 1....
they will not wait for all the oil to drain . they will not inspect for leaks or any other issues like rust.
then they will over torque the fasteners/filter cap and it will get damaged its cheap plastic . the oil they use is in a drum bulk ..better buy mobil 1 oil and get filters from dealership or on line shipment .
I JUST CHANGED THE OIL ON MY 2016 T4R.. I ALSO FIXED ALL THE SMALL RUST SPOTS AND CHECKED THE DRIVE TRAIN FLUIDS.
I would not use dealership engine oil . factory oil created sludge in my vehicle not NOW... mobil 1....
Lester Lugnut
New member
Yep...many dealers have 200 gallon oil tanks in the shop that have ONE weight of oil in it. Usually 5W-30. Regardless of what car they are servicing, it gets 5W-30 oil. That's OK for a lot of engines, but not what a 5th Gen 4R calls for.
But...for me, their oil choice is the least of my concerns. Failure to do ALL that they're supposed to do and PROPERLY is my biggest concern.
Driveway mechanic 'til death.
bamma
New member
Another filter housing option:
https://jowettperformance.com
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/oil-filter-cap-sneak-peak.935394/
Keeps the stock element, but makes the process a bit easier. Available for v6 or v8 applications.
https://jowettperformance.com
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/oil-filter-cap-sneak-peak.935394/
Keeps the stock element, but makes the process a bit easier. Available for v6 or v8 applications.
Mr. Antman,
Thank you very much for the detailed explanation on the oil change process and the detailed pictures. I am new to the forum and Toyota in general and I am glad to read your post before I performed this task. Your details are accurate and made this task straight forward and simple for a first time oil change on a new vehicle. Much respect for the time you put forward to do this for us newbies. It is much appreciated! your contribution is top notch and shows your dedication to helping newbies that are doing this for the first time!
Tom
Thank you very much for the detailed explanation on the oil change process and the detailed pictures. I am new to the forum and Toyota in general and I am glad to read your post before I performed this task. Your details are accurate and made this task straight forward and simple for a first time oil change on a new vehicle. Much respect for the time you put forward to do this for us newbies. It is much appreciated! your contribution is top notch and shows your dedication to helping newbies that are doing this for the first time!
Tom
IslandJim
New member
Magnetic Oil Pand Drain Plug
Found the magnetic drain plug size fairly easy with a web search.
Most searches show this size; M 12x1.25mm
Going to try an aluminum body plug with a steel magnetic tip.
Does anyone see a problem using an aluminum drain plug?
https://www.amazon.com/Upstream-M12x1-25mm-Magnetic-Infiniti-Nissan/dp/B017SV5CBA/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1512309975&sr=1-1&keywords=upstream+toyota+blue+12x1.25
Found the magnetic drain plug size fairly easy with a web search.
Most searches show this size; M 12x1.25mm
Going to try an aluminum body plug with a steel magnetic tip.
Does anyone see a problem using an aluminum drain plug?
https://www.amazon.com/Upstream-M12x1-25mm-Magnetic-Infiniti-Nissan/dp/B017SV5CBA/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1512309975&sr=1-1&keywords=upstream+toyota+blue+12x1.25
I read about half of the 50 pages in the thread.... not sure this was asked
I live in a rental so driveway access limited and I can't really leave oil stains everywhere... If I get the fumoto can I get away with not making a big mess? Also how much time is this taking people with skid removal and all?
My other car is a Hyundai and I can do the whole thing literally in 10 mins, and not spill a drop of oil. Car has fumoto valve and a top mount canister... Easiest thing ever. I don't even have to wear gloves...
If the 4Runner is a PITA mainly on the mess front I might just continue coughing up the $$$ for the dealer
I live in a rental so driveway access limited and I can't really leave oil stains everywhere... If I get the fumoto can I get away with not making a big mess? Also how much time is this taking people with skid removal and all?
My other car is a Hyundai and I can do the whole thing literally in 10 mins, and not spill a drop of oil. Car has fumoto valve and a top mount canister... Easiest thing ever. I don't even have to wear gloves...
If the 4Runner is a PITA mainly on the mess front I might just continue coughing up the $$$ for the dealer
Lester Lugnut
New member
Lay a large sheet of card board under the 4R - one large enough to cover the entire area from the front of the vehicle to an area past the engine oil drain pan. Time to get this done depends on your mobility/experience.
I use the extra large puppy training pads from the pet store...works great. I also take a large piece of aluminum foil, fold it up a bit, and then sort of mold it under the canister to catch any oil and direct it towards my drain pain...eliminates dripping onto parts below.
Similar threads
