Oil Change 5th Gen: How To- LOTS of PICS!
- Thread starter Antman
- Start date
1000MPH
Senior Member
I recommend that you only buy from actual Toyota parts dealers from this link. I bought from the first seller that popped up and they were fakes from China with paper gaskets.
Voyager2013
New member
Antman
Elite Member
My parts dealer has a super nice counter woman. After my 3rd trip buying filters and talking with her a bit (she liked my 4Runner) she just threw a handful in a baggie and said here ya go- this should cover you for a while.
Nice lady!
sounds like something fishy going on..
Sonoran_Desert
Member
Antman and all, thanks for the updates over the years to keep oil change parts/ processes accurate and much appreciated..
Just when you thought impossible to ask anything else on changing 5th Gen oil:
Driving front end up on RhinoRamps will help with visibility and getting under, but any opinions on what this upward slant trajectory on front end does for completeness of oil drain?
Also - it might be come obvious when I unscrew the drain plug but my guess is blue side of gasket (as shown in Antman's pic) goes against the pan.
Thanks
Just when you thought impossible to ask anything else on changing 5th Gen oil:
Driving front end up on RhinoRamps will help with visibility and getting under, but any opinions on what this upward slant trajectory on front end does for completeness of oil drain?
Also - it might be come obvious when I unscrew the drain plug but my guess is blue side of gasket (as shown in Antman's pic) goes against the pan.
Thanks
1000MPH
Senior Member
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1000MPH
Senior Member
A bit of a stuff-up today with my oil change. When double checking the drain bolts after filling with the new oil, I couldn't see the washer on the oil pan plug. Sure enough, it had fallen off when I went to install it.
No worries, I tried the shop vac trick I had seen on youtube and it worked flawlessly. We have a long filler tube so the additional rag was not needed.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IAAKh9Q-KNw
I might be getting too old and stupid to change my own oil
No worries, I tried the shop vac trick I had seen on youtube and it worked flawlessly. We have a long filler tube so the additional rag was not needed.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IAAKh9Q-KNw
I might be getting too old and stupid to change my own oil
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Has anyone doing their own oil change found a “clean” oil filter canister? I did my first oil change at 30,000. This is after the complimentary service from Toyota. When I went to change the filter, it had a rust/mud colored sludge built up around the sides. It cleaned out easily and it didn’t look like regular carbon deposits. I wish I had taken a pic but I just wanted to clean it all up so I can get it done. I plan to check for this again soon. From my experience, it doesn’t seem that the dealer actually changed my filter last time.
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so sludge inside the oil filter ? to me that appears to be non synthetic engine oil.
my new toyota 3K miles on it when winter arrived I found sludge under the fill cap. so after installing mobil synthetic 0-20 wt 7500 miles later the sludge never returned .
1] they did not replace or clean the filter housing
2] they used cheaper conventional oils..
my vehicle oil filter housing very clean .. filter also could see light threw the pleats .. 7500 miles . oil looked very good just slightly darker than new.
my new toyota 3K miles on it when winter arrived I found sludge under the fill cap. so after installing mobil synthetic 0-20 wt 7500 miles later the sludge never returned .
1] they did not replace or clean the filter housing
2] they used cheaper conventional oils..
my vehicle oil filter housing very clean .. filter also could see light threw the pleats .. 7500 miles . oil looked very good just slightly darker than new.
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BTO
Member
Just did the first oil change on our new '18 TRD OR. Used this write up. Thanks OP. Went flawless. No way was I going to let the grease monkeys at the stealer f up our new ride. I don't care if they do give free oil changes for first 2 years. Screw that!
Here's my 2 cents worth> If anybody thinks they need to spend a lot of money at the stealer on an oil cap wrench, no need. I picked up this $10 one at O'Reilly auto parts that worked perfectly.
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/pennzoil-4568/tools---equipment-16488/tools-17919/mechanics-tools-16816/oil---lube-tools-16607/oil-filter-wrench-17364/pennzoil-cap-wrench/19906/4610121
Also, mine took a solid 7 quarts to get it to the full mark on the dipstick.
Here's my 2 cents worth> If anybody thinks they need to spend a lot of money at the stealer on an oil cap wrench, no need. I picked up this $10 one at O'Reilly auto parts that worked perfectly.
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/pennzoil-4568/tools---equipment-16488/tools-17919/mechanics-tools-16816/oil---lube-tools-16607/oil-filter-wrench-17364/pennzoil-cap-wrench/19906/4610121
Also, mine took a solid 7 quarts to get it to the full mark on the dipstick.
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BTO
Member
Yep, also had some follow up thoughts.
This 5th gen is a lot lower under there then our 3rd gen was. I used to be able to roll under the 3rd gen without having to lift it. No way was I going to be able to get to the drain plug without jacking this 5th gen.
Decided to use my floor jack under what looked like a jack point front and center on a bump in the middle of the heavy skid plate. I went slow watching for any sign of bending but it never did. I did not have to get the wheels off the ground. Only raised the front end enough to be able to work under the engine. I supported with jack stands on the frame rails.
I did read back in the thread where some people reported breaking their canister caps with the O'Reilly cap wrench. I did not see how that is possible unless maybe they used an impact on it? I used a standard ratchet and the cap came off smoothly.
This 5th gen is a lot lower under there then our 3rd gen was. I used to be able to roll under the 3rd gen without having to lift it. No way was I going to be able to get to the drain plug without jacking this 5th gen.
Decided to use my floor jack under what looked like a jack point front and center on a bump in the middle of the heavy skid plate. I went slow watching for any sign of bending but it never did. I did not have to get the wheels off the ground. Only raised the front end enough to be able to work under the engine. I supported with jack stands on the frame rails.
I did read back in the thread where some people reported breaking their canister caps with the O'Reilly cap wrench. I did not see how that is possible unless maybe they used an impact on it? I used a standard ratchet and the cap came off smoothly.
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