Oil Change 5th Gen: How To- LOTS of PICS!

[thennen]

Ok so my other half bought 0W-30 Mobil 1 Synehtic and being so tired the night I changed it and the filter I did not notice till now. How bad is this? I know it calls for 0W-20. Dealer said no biggie unless the vehicle will be subject to below 15-20 degree temps constantly. Opinions? My bad, must be way overdue for next weeks getaway to Telluride!!

I think you're fine. Got this from a lubricant website, fwiw. Of course, it doesn't replace Toyota's recommendation, but the small viscosity increase at high temps should be fine for one oil change. Hope it helps!
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Engine oil viscosity
Engine oil viscosity refers to how easily oil pours at a specified temperature. Thin oils have lower viscosity and pour more easily at low temperatures than thicker oils that have a higher viscosity. Thin oils reduce friction in engines and help engines start quickly during cold weather. Thick oils are better at maintaining film strength and oil pressure at high temperatures and loads.

Measuring engine oil viscosity

The Society of Automotive Engineers developed a scale for both engine (motor oil grades) and transmission oils.

Viscosity is notated using the common classification “XW-XX”. The number preceding the “W” (winter) rates the oil’s flow (viscosity) at zero degrees Fahrenheit (-17.8 degrees Celsius). The lower the number, the less the oil thickens in cold weather.

The numbers after the “XW” indicate viscosity at 100 degrees Celsius (212F - me) and represent the oil’s resistance to thinning at high temperatures.

For instance, oil with a 5W-30 grade thickens less than oil with a 10W-30 grade in cold weather. Oil with a 5W-30 grade thins out more quickly at high temperatures as compared to oils with a 5W-40 grade.

During winter and for cars used in cooler regions, your engine will benefit from using oil with low winter viscosity. During summer and in hotter regions, your engine will benefit more from oil with higher viscosity at 100 degrees Celsius.

When comparing oils, it is important to take into account the location in which the car will be used. Thin oils that are less prone to thickening in low temperatures will help you start your engine more quickly in winter while thick oils that are less prone to thinning in hot temperatures will help your engine perform better in summer. As a result, 0W-20 and 5W-30 oils have been developed for colder climates while 15W-40 and 20W-50 oils have been developed with hotter climates in mind.

 

[felonius]

This one? https://www.partsdiscounters.com/oem-parts/toyota-under-cover-bolt-9008011373

Haven't seen specific thread info though.

I don't think that is it. At least from the picture, that doesn't look like the little 'oil skid plate'


Thank you though!

Edit: I think you are correct! I has confused myself earlier

 

[felonius]

Aren't they the same as the Skid Plate Bolts?

SKID PLATE BOLT 9008011373
LOWER COVER BOLT 9010906330

I don't think they are the same.

My 'oil skid plate' bolts were 12mm bolts and the actual skid plate bolts are 10mm. (They look bigger for sure)

Thank you for info though.


Edit: i think you are right, i was confusing my bolts

 

[catrains]

using 0-30wt where you live no problems ... synthetic oils do flow great in cold weather and also provide the best lubrication when the temps rise to the 90F plus.. the zero is important as when cold the oil will flow quickly on a start..

using a 15W is a problem as this on cold start is not going to flow good ..

some use 0-40wt in extreme hot regions ..
also on the rear diff they use a higher viscosity gear oil ..

up in the cold north east I do use the 0-20wt synthetic ..

 

[Lester Lugnut]

Ok so my other half bought 0W-30 Mobil 1 Synehtic and being so tired the night I changed it and the filter I did not notice till now. How bad is this? I know it calls for 0W-20. Dealer said no biggie unless the vehicle will be subject to below 15-20 degree temps constantly. Opinions? My bad, must be way overdue for next weeks getaway to Telluride!!

Don't feel bad. You would be surprised how many dealers(not just Toyota) use ONE grade of oil. Each and every car that comes in for an oil change gets that grade. Most popular these days is 5W-30.

You think you are getting 0W-20 which is what your owners manual calls for, but you get bulk 5W-30 that comes out of 200-300 gallon tanks.

It's all about the bottom line.

 

[leveeguy]

Appreciate the write up, just completed my first DIY T4R oil change at 14500 miles. I didn't find it was too bad of a job but theres more to it than ive experienced changing oil on any other vehicles in the past, and definitely the messiest!!!!!! I can see why it's not a good idea to allow just any oil change technician perform this work. Lil less Clearance under there than what I thought but I got it done without jacking up the vehicle. I also bought the motiv high dollar filter wrench which worked great. I found removing/replacing the plastic Shields and skid plate to be the most labor intensive part of the job, I hate playing with plastic clips on vehicles. I double checked then triple checked all my work esp when.... I know I put the correct amount of oil back in and i let pan and filter drain for long enough but checking the dipstick before and after changing oil i kept seeing oil spotches showing up just above the full mark on the stick after multiple checks but only on one side of dipstick which I've never experienced on other vehicles, not even on my 17 year old Toyota I own, didnt realize Land Cruiser had such a great dipstick until today I guess. I'll check it in morning maybe it was still a lil too warm earlier was the case. THANKS ANTMAN

 

[DougR]

My wife did not want me to change oil in her 4Runner as long as the extended warranty was effective. Today was the last oil change, so I elected to check and test items before this oil change was performed.

First, I checked four skid plate bolt (2-12mm and 2-10mm) threads. There was enough damage to require chasing the threads with dies, however, bolts were still serviceable if torqued carefully.

Last, I applied a dab of nail polish on two 10mm bolts circled in the photo to see if those bolts were loosened during the filter change.

After servicing, I noted that both bolts were not disturbed. I showed a tech manager the undisturbed bolts and asked how the filter could be changed if these bolts were not removed. His reply was, "We used to remove 7 10mm bolts (shown at arrows in the photo), but we found a way to remove only two rear 12mm bolts, rotate and lower the back of the skid plate, reach in and remove the oil filter housing (when vehicle is high up on a hoist). My finger picked up some old oil when I reached into the recessed hole for a 12mm bolt. Looking at the oil filter housing was inconclusive due to a fresh rain shower, so, I accepted his explanation.

Is the tech manager's explanation reasonable and correct?

 

[TOYO74]

Check this link:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-g...ter-change-no-skidplate-removal-required.html

 

[DougR]

Thanks TOYO74. In the link you gave, Hawaiian4Runner wrote, "My 2010 Trail doesnt look like that either. Mines is like Antman's. Gotta remove the plastic cover to take off the 2 front bolts on the skid."

Our 4Runner is like Antman's, so now it appears the oil filter was not changed. I'll know for sure when I do the first oil change myself.

 

[renau001]

Mine is exactly like yours and I do not remove the plastic cover. I put the vehicle on ramps, remove the two bolts and clip closest to the skid plate. Then remove the bolts from the skid plate and let it swing down. That is likely what they did.

 

[TOYO74]

Mine is exactly like yours and I do not remove the plastic cover. I put the vehicle on ramps, remove the two bolts and clip closest to the skid plate. Then remove the bolts from the skid plate and let it swing down. That is likely what they did.

That is how I also do mine. Saves time and is easier than getting the front hook/hinges to line up.

BTW renau001, when you posted your 2016 DIY maintenance list I printed it and keep it on a clipboard in my garage. Very handy- THANKS!

 

[renau001]

That is how I also do mine. Saves time and is easier than getting the front hook/hinges to line up.

BTW renau001, when you posted your 2016 DIY maintenance list I printed it and keep it on a clipboard in my garage. Very handy- THANKS!

Haha, I should do that, I pull it up all the time, but I really should just tape it to the wall in my garage.

 

[DougR]

Amazon Sent Counterfeit Oil Filter Cap?

Per the post by [MENTION=165511]damon18[/MENTION], I ordered this oil filter cap, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008BHP68A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Amazon's product image shows what should be an aluminum casting with a drain plug.

I received a resin cap without a drain plug. The box states "Toyota Genuine Parts", however there is no part number printed on the box and no part number embossed on the cap. I'm returning it. Is this item genuine or is it counterfeit? Should I order another one and see if I receive what's shown in the product image? The Dorman oil filter cap sold on Amazon has too many bad reviews. I want what [MENTION=165511]damon18[/MENTION] received.

 

[Rmack]

Per the post by [MENTION=165511]damon18[/MENTION], I ordered this oil filter cap, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008BHP68A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Amazon's product image shows what should be an aluminum casting with a drain plug.

I received a resin cap without a drain plug. The box states "Toyota Genuine Parts", however there is no part number printed on the box and no part number embossed on the cap. I'm returning it. Is this item genuine or is it counterfeit? Should I order another one and see if I receive what's shown in the product image? The Dorman oil filter cap sold on Amazon has too many bad reviews. I want what [MENTION=165511]damon18[/MENTION] received.

I ordered the part that you linked and it was a metal housing. The one you show is not correct. Hopefully an exchange will get you the right one. Look also at the directions on here about changing the metal tube from your old housing.

 

[elnip]

I ordered the part that you linked and it was a metal housing. The one you show is not correct. Hopefully an exchange will get you the right one. Look also at the directions on here about changing the metal tube from your old housing.

Same here, metal housing in a Toyota box with that part number.

 

[Greenlawnracing]

My wife just advised me that she is overdue for an oil change. I have never changed the oil in this vehicle, as we just went past the Toyota Care where we utilized the "free" oil changes from the stealership.

She did wait until we were 500 miles from home to tell me, but no problem at all. Her dad is a farmer, and has 90,000 tools.

Other than a Toyota filter wrench.

Using Google and this thread, it appears that a Pennzoil 19906 will do the trick although there are certainly better brands out there. Given that I'm in a town of 7000 people, O'reilly is the other shop in town and they do have it in stock.

Can anyone confirm that this WILL fit the 4Runner? Lots of threads reference the Pennzoil brand, but not this particular model number.

Also - what is this metal tab on the filter housing?

 

[catrains]

since you had this free oil changes done then that oil filter cap removal may not unscrew easy.. the auto part stores O rielly have those very soft sockets yes the do fit but if the stealership guy cranked it to the max then that can be a bad day..

read on this posting what filter cap removal tool to get $25 made very solid Motivx name ..

the metal tang on that cap is a position component and does not lock it ..

when you put the cap on the O ring requires replacing and you only tighten it 10ft lbs max.. cap screws on easy then when you feel friction that's it ..

this works for me https://www.amazon.com/Motivx-Tools...ywords=toyota+4runner+oil+filter+wrench&psc=1

 

[Lester Lugnut]

the metal tang on that cap is a position component and does not lock it ..

I thought so as well at one time. Not the case. See the following thread. Things get interesting at post #14 and go from there:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/188343-dealer-tech-opinion-recent-10k-service.html

 

[catrains]

I thought so as well at one time. Not the case. See the following thread. Things get interesting at post #14 and go from there:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/188343-dealer-tech-opinion-recent-10k-service.html

IMO I would not trust that tab to keep the cap from coming off ..
when new that tab was lined up with the casting ridge. so when I put it back on that was the same spot the cap got snug ..so I thought like you a position marker.

many do rotate that cap one extra rotation so that tab lines up with that casting ridge then problem removal ..
plastic cap is what I did not like .. I would prefer a metal cap .. plastic will crack over time .

 

[Rainier42]

Excellent photos and writeup. Will be changing the oil on my T4R this weekend.