Oil Change 5th Gen: How To- LOTS of PICS!

O-ring was installed properly. I guess the metal marker not lining up with the engine case mark & the feel of the housing just stopping all of the sudden rather than gradually tightening kind of threw me a little. Thanks everybody.
FYI, you only loose the amount of oil in the filter case (0.1 qts) when you remove just the filter. Nothing gushes out of the engine.

Mine rolls past the tab and stops consistently in the same spot at +/- 18ftlbs. Iv'e done about 10 oil changes with no issues yet.
 
It appears that there are some pictures missing from Antman's original posts...is anyone else having this problem? Or are all the pictures showing up for everyone else?
 
I bookmarked this thread. Excellent instructions and pictures, thank you! Since I'm only 2 weeks into owning my new 4runner, i have 6 month scheduled maintenance (oil, rotations, etc) sessions with the Toyota dealer I purchased the truck from. I'll let them handle everything... for now. At least until I'm comfortable/confident in doing this myself. I love this truck so much, I don't want to risk messing it up! lol

There is probably more risk in the dealer messing your T4R up than you. Do yourself a favor and pull the skid covering the filter housing before you take the truck in for the oil change. Dealer "techs" are prone to cross threading the skid bolts. Pull off the plastic cover under the drain plug, also. They left it off the last time it was in for "Toyotacare". And double check their work afterward. They have over torqued the filter housing and half the lug nuts on mine.
 
QUESTION: are these the clips in Antman's original instructions that we should grind off to help make it easier when removing the skid plate?

 
QUESTION: are these the clips in Antman's original instructions that we should grind off to help make it easier when removing the skid plate?


Yes those are the ones he recommends grinding down. I have a TE and my skid plate comes on and off no problem without the mod.
 
Yea I don't mind paying for convenience. 15 minute oil change as opposed to an hour every month

You're changing monthly? Dang, at what mileage are you changing??

At that rate you're a great candidate for an extended drain oil and filter.
 
You're changing monthly? Dang, at what mileage are you changing??

At that rate you're a great candidate for an extended drain oil and filter.

well to tell you the truth, my last truck I traded in for this I was driving 1,000 miles a week at least so I just got in the habit of doing it every month to get the most life out of it.

But I recently chnaged jobs and won't be driving like that anymore so I can go a lot longer now. But I see it as cheap insurance.

People don't realize vehicles that hardly ever get driven need oil changed even sooner because of the moisture that builds up in the oil and doesn't get burned out driving it long distances enough.

So mu wifes car that she drives just a mile to work and back and nowhere else I definitely change her oil once a month
 
well to tell you the truth, my last truck I traded in for this I was driving 1,000 miles a week at least so I just got in the habit of doing it every month to get the most life out of it.

But I recently chnaged jobs and won't be driving like that anymore so I can go a lot longer now. But I see it as cheap insurance.

People don't realize vehicles that hardly ever get driven need oil changed even sooner because of the moisture that builds up in the oil and doesn't get burned out driving it long distances enough.

So mu wifes car that she drives just a mile to work and back and nowhere else I definitely change her oil once a month

Holy smokes Dude. Cheap insurance? Your wife's only driving 40 miles per month! At the very least that should be a 6 month oil change. Probably a year....with 1 month changes you're wasting a bunch of money on oil and filters as the oil is still good. I can almost see changing monthly when you're driving 1000 miles per week, and understand how you got into that regimen. Almost.

Maybe go spend some time reading on bobistheoilguy.com. You will save yourself a lot of money.

Of course if you LIKE changing (and buying) oil every month....

In the end, they're your vehicles and I respect your choices. But wow.
 
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Holy smokes Dude. Cheap insurance? Your wife's only driving 40 miles per month! At the very least that should be a 6 month oil change. Probably a year....with 1 month changes you're wasting a bunch of money on oil and filters as the oil is still good. I can almost see changing monthly when you're driving 1000 miles per week, and understand how you got into that regimen. Almost.

Maybe go spend some time reading on bobistheoilguy.com. You will save yourself a lot of money.

Of course if you LIKE changing (and buying) oil every month....

In the end, they're your vehicles and I respect your choices. But wow.

I am very aware of the technical data on oil. I have spent hundreds of hours over the years researching it. And if anything my wife's car needs oil changed more often at 40 miles a month than I do at 4000 miles a month. Thats just a fact.

Cars that don't get driven enough need the oil changed much more often. Yes motor oil actually never goes bad, it just gets contaminated. And in my wifes case it gets contaminated sooner because of moisture from non use
 
well to tell you the truth, my last truck I traded in for this I was driving 1,000 miles a week at least so I just got in the habit of doing it every month to get the most life out of it.

But I recently chnaged jobs and won't be driving like that anymore so I can go a lot longer now. But I see it as cheap insurance.

People don't realize vehicles that hardly ever get driven need oil changed even sooner because of the moisture that builds up in the oil and doesn't get burned out driving it long distances enough.

So mu wifes car that she drives just a mile to work and back and nowhere else I definitely change her oil once a month

You’ll love not driving your normal 1k a week. I recently went thru the same transition. Omg I love it! The risk, stress, not being home add up and take a toll. Now I ride my bike to work 3 miles and get oil changes on the work van once a year! We’re lucky if we put more than 2500miles a year on them! It’s great! Enjoy!
 
I am very aware of the technical data on oil. I have spent hundreds of hours over the years researching it. And if anything my wife's car needs oil changed more often at 40 miles a month than I do at 4000 miles a month. Thats just a fact.

Cars that don't get driven enough need the oil changed much more often. Yes motor oil actually never goes bad, it just gets contaminated. And in my wifes case it gets contaminated sooner because of moisture from non use

That's very true. But NO motor oil is done in after only 40 miles.

God speed sir.
 
Not sure if you’ve done the math. The $350,000 you spend on the oil might be worth it to you but I’m willing to bet you won’t pass the driving test after 192 years.
Edit: whoops I did the math wrong too. If 40 miles a month, not a week, it will take 833 years to go 400,000 miles. Hope you got the extended warranty.
 
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Part numbers for oil change

I checked online about the parts in parts.toyota.com. The filter kit and drain plug gasket fit my 2016 model from the description. But there are also some numbers below the part # says from 200608 to 200809, which seems like a year model 2006 - 2008?

Oil Filter. For 2016 Toyota 4Runner SR5 4.0L V6 4WD AT | Toyota

Drain Plug Gasket. For 2016 Toyota 4Runner SR5 4.0L V6 4WD AT | Toyota


Many of you have asked for a tutorial for this- so here is my best effort to explain the process. Let me start by saying that I am NOT a mechanic, but I have been changing my own oil for, well, 27 years or so FWIW.

IF ANYONE NOTICES AN ERROR, OR SOMETHING I SHOULD ADD, PLEASE SPEAK UP SO I CAN EDIT THIS TO BE AS ACCURATE AS POSSIBLE FOR THE FORUM!


Ok, enough with the small talk- let's get dirty.




Time to get some supplies together:


Here is what you will need, along with some extra stuff to make this a relatively pleasant experience...

DSCF1248.jpg~original



DSCF1235.jpg~original


DSCF1233.jpg~original





- 7 Quarts (you need 6.6) of synthetic 0W-20 oil. I prefer Mobil1, but Toyota Oil is great as well


- Toyota filter kit part# 04152-YZZA5

- Toyota oil drain plug gasket part # 90430-12031

- Extra large drain pan

- Funnel

- 64mm filter wrench

- 3/8" drive ratchet, extension and 10mm, 12mm, & 14mm sockets

- Nitrile gloves

- Old Micro fiber towels, and papertowels to clean up

- Owner's manual

- Big plastic spill catcher pan (optional)
 
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Changed my oil a month ago since my preferred tech that I trusted at Toyota left. I've been doing oil changes at 1k, and then 5k intervals since then. Changed at 20k a month ago. Have to say, besides dropping the TRD skid plate, this was a very easy vehicle to change the oil on and not very messy either. Using all OEM oil and filter.
 
I checked online about the parts in parts.toyota.com. The filter kit and drain plug gasket fit my 2016 model from the description. But there are also some numbers below the part # says from 200608 to 200809, which seems like a year model 2006 - 2008?


The date ranges in Toyota's parts description at many of these online sites can be very confusing. The parts info Antman provided at the front of this thread is good.

The only part I take issue with is cutting off the S hooks. Those are there to help with reinstallation of the skid plate.
 
Broke the oil filter cap and wrench today!

Changed oil of my 2016 SR5 today and it was a mess. Obviously dealer overtightened the oil filter. The metal indicator with the plastic piece was the first one to broke. I used a breaker bar and finally removed the filter. But when I reinstalled it I broke other pieces too... Now the Motivx tool oil filter wrench I used was also also broken in the center area! I did add the new oil in but now how can I replace the new oil filter housing without causing further damage? I could wait for the next oil change but really want to fix it sooner. Saw someone recommended a better filter housing but I’m not sure if it fits better than OEM parts.
 

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