Oil pan gasket 2000 2wd 4 runner 2.7l

[quatin]

I found a small leak in the oil pan gasket. One of the techs at my buddy's shop says it's a 3-4 hour job, because you have to remove the oil pump with the oil strainer to get the oil pan out. He wasn't entirely sure, but I can't find any info online on how to do it. It's a 2wd, so no front differential.

Anyone remove theirs and know the procedure?

 

[triangles]

I also have a 4 cyl. I was wondering about removing the oil pan too. Mine is heavily corroded and I'm worried about rust thru. i haven't had a toyota motor apart before so I have no idea. Every motor I've seen the pan just unbolts and drops straight down once you have everything out of the way. I'm skeptical about the tech's claim. Let us know what you find out.

 

[ajonesnv]

Not the case on the 3.4L, still 3-4 hours if it's 4wd cause you have to drop the diff.

I would think its not required to just to the gasket. Dig around here... http://web.archive.org/web/20110102225436/http://www.ncttora.com/FSM/

 

[quatin]

Thanks for that link. I dug around. I couldn't find a 2000 3RZ-FE FSM, but I found one from 96 for a Tacoma. Unfortunately, it doesn't detail the instructions to remove the oil pan. However, from the mechanical diagram, I don't see anything in the way. The oil pan/transmission plate area looks the same on the 5VZ engine, which I found an instruction set for.

5VZ Engine. Remove cooling pipes, remove skid plate, drop oil pan.

3RZ Engine Diagram.

I might attempt this later after I swap out my radiator.

 

[Mc1337sauce]

I pulled my oil pan off to have a bung welded for my turbo oil return line. It takes a bit of finagling, but the pan comes off pretty easily...now that I have done it, it would take 30min-1hr to do again. This is on a 2WD truck, though, so for those with 4WD, I cannot comment on the difficulty of the procedure.

 

[ajonesnv]

Thanks for that link. I dug around. I couldn't find a 2000 3RZ-FE FSM, but I found one from 96 for a Tacoma. Unfortunately, it doesn't detail the instructions to remove the oil pan. However, from the mechanical diagram, I don't see anything in the way. The oil pan/transmission plate area looks the same on the 5VZ engine, which I found an instruction set for.

5VZ Engine. Remove cooling pipes, remove skid plate, drop oil pan.


I might attempt this later after I swap out my radiator.

When you get to it don't use a store bought gasket, use Ultra Black RTV. That is the equivalent to Toyota's RTV.

I did this last night and other then removing the diff it is an easy job. You will have to remove the transmission bell housing cover and no I did not need to remove the oil cooler or any of its lines. Do however make sure the dip stick is pulled.

 

[keeperofgoal]

When you get to it don't use a store bought gasket, use Ultra Black RTV. That is the equivalent to Toyota's RTV.

I did this last night and other then removing the diff it is an easy job. You will have to remove the transmission bell housing cover and no I did not need to remove the oil cooler or any of its lines. Do however make sure the dip stick is pulled.

im reviving because I have major leak at the right side of pan. ajonesnv I'm 4x4 can I not just unbolt and sneak the rtv in there? cause I heard that's a thing haha

 

[ajonesnv]

im reviving because I have major leak at the right side of pan. ajonesnv I'm 4x4 can I not just unbolt and sneak the rtv in there? cause I heard that's a thing haha

I doubt it, with out cleaning it and clearing the oil it most likely wont hold well.

 

[UnderFire]

im reviving because I have major leak at the right side of pan. ajonesnv I'm 4x4 can I not just unbolt and sneak the rtv in there? cause I heard that's a thing haha

Almost no room to work in there. Between the pan and front diff you've got maybe 3" at the most.

It's not as much of an ordeal as people make it out to be. Especially with a manual trans you've got lots of room to work with. An extra set of hands helping is nice to have but not 100% necessary.

Process is as follows.

Drain front diff and engine oil
Jack up and take off front wheels
On either side unbolt the lower ball joint from the spindle. This will give you enough room to pop the CV axles out of the differential. Personally I choose to completely remove the axles but it isn't 100% necessary.
Pop the front driveshaft off the diff flange
Once you've got the axles out, there are two bolts that hold the front mounts of the diff that go through the cross member. The third diff mount is a stud that goes through near the driveshaft. That is the only one that's an oddball fastener in the entire job. You'll want a 1/2 drive 12MM Allen socket.
Let the diff hang in it's spot, it won't go anywhere until you physically lift the stud out of its hole. Then you can unplug the add and vent tubes.
After that pop the diff up and lay it off to the side. It can be done with a floor jack as well if you don't want to bench it, but it's not very balanced.

Then you're home free, no struggling around the diff to get to the bolts and crossing your fingers hoping it doesn't leak.

This adds maybe an hour overall to the job, you spend time removing and reinstalling the parts, but it is amazingly easy to do the rest of the job once it's out of the way.

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