Loud Runner
New member
I agree, I was impressed with the level of detail in the write up.
I met Matt at the meet over the weekend, very intelligent guy.
Thanks for sharing that link on our Facebook group page, Matt!
on-board air compressor opinions
- Thread starter afg10000
- Start date
I agree, I was impressed with the level of detail in the write up.
I met Matt at the meet over the weekend, very intelligent guy.
Thanks for sharing that link on our Facebook group page, Matt!
white_n_slow
Senior Member
I was inspired by that writeup a couple years ago, but after running that compressor for a while as a portable unit, it is just too slow and underpowered to bother mounting permanently. Maybe with a tank it would be worthwhile, but it typically took about 30 minutes to get all 4 tires back up to street pressure after wheeling at 16psi. My wife doesn't have the patience for that.
nevada
Senior Member
BrianSD_42
New member
About that link ... Yeah I'm not planning on buying that $60 cheap compressor but the write up is cool. Perhaps a better compressor will fit in that spot.
BrianSD_42
New member
Some of these are probably worth checking out.
Reviews - Onboard Air Reviews by Offroaders.com - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Review Engine Powered by ReviewPost
Reviews - Onboard Air Reviews by Offroaders.com - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Review Engine Powered by ReviewPost
IBallEngineer
New member
Not as far as capability, but it is not without issues. I've run the york on two different Jeeps. They take up space, require you refill the oil periodically, and vibrate like mad. The 2nd one I did was a Kilby "kit", the owner got tired of breaking brackets and switched to the ARB twin(not my install). The first one was not as problematic, but he killed the compressor because he didn't oil it.
I also converted a Radial Harrison once, that does not have a reservoir so I used an inline oiler, of course it over oiled so it was messy and you had to really stay on top of it. Fortunately that was for my best friend so I was always around to remind him. But man that thing aired up four tires before I could do one. Just sayin'
:snacker:
nevada
Senior Member
1st place from that list:
http://www.amazon.com/Oasis-XD3000-Heavy-Duty-Compressor/dp/B006RHNU7K
$1500?! damn! I would hope it was fast.
ive heard this said before about the YORKs, but I haven't noticed that with mine. there is a bit of noise, especially when the pressure is low, but it goes away once the tank is full. and yes on adding oil, but only every 6-12 months, and that's with fairly frequent use.
they are however HUGE, so actually fitting them may be a problem.
Last edited:
IBallEngineer
New member
I didn't see this one on that list. I run this in my motorhome and I love it, but I don't have space issues. And I got it from a friend who burnt his truck to the ground, almost.
Some day I'll time how long it takes to air up my 35's.
Product : Extreme Outback
the great him
Elite Member
Yorks are nice, but big and bulky, and yes they vibrate like crazy, and require the engine to be running to use, not to mention they rob power from the motor and add resistance -yeah i know they have a clutch ect, but its still turning that belt... idk to me the ARB twin is better. i dont need the air volume that the York makes, and to me space is much more valuable. ARB stands behind their products so im not worries about failures(i have the small compressor running my air lockers so my twin is only used for a back up for air up tires if i run out of CO2 or forget my tank/dont have it with me.
as far as guys using bumpers or sliders or trailer hitch receivers as tanks... welp nope, not me, never, no sir! i mean sure if you are never gonna use your trailer hitch as a trailer hitch ie tow or use as a recovery point, same with bumpers, if you never plan on hitting anything or being hit then sure, and sliders um why do we put them on our trucks? yeah my point here is, have the people who have done this actually had them pressure tested? nope i doubt it, so you are gonna pump 120psi into a tube and then expect it to take abuse...? do you guys toss your garage compressors around and bang on them or use them to hit things with? i doubt it. its dangerous, a impact that would other wise just crack the "tank" ie slider or bumper ect now has become a bomb that will split with an explosive force of that 120psi trying to escape. not only that but most compressor tanks have a drain on them to let the water that accumulates in then to be drained. if you dont do this then you will have rust issues and after time your tank will rust through from the inside out and rupture with no warning. there is a reason DOT wont let air tanks be structural components, same with sanctioned racing, no air tanks in roll bars or bumpers. to much danger in having a structural part fail when otherwise it would not. its a novel ideal but IMO a bad idea and more work than its worth. you can get a 3-5gal tank for like $30 and that will be all the tank you would ever need.
as far as guys using bumpers or sliders or trailer hitch receivers as tanks... welp nope, not me, never, no sir! i mean sure if you are never gonna use your trailer hitch as a trailer hitch ie tow or use as a recovery point, same with bumpers, if you never plan on hitting anything or being hit then sure, and sliders um why do we put them on our trucks? yeah my point here is, have the people who have done this actually had them pressure tested? nope i doubt it, so you are gonna pump 120psi into a tube and then expect it to take abuse...? do you guys toss your garage compressors around and bang on them or use them to hit things with? i doubt it. its dangerous, a impact that would other wise just crack the "tank" ie slider or bumper ect now has become a bomb that will split with an explosive force of that 120psi trying to escape. not only that but most compressor tanks have a drain on them to let the water that accumulates in then to be drained. if you dont do this then you will have rust issues and after time your tank will rust through from the inside out and rupture with no warning. there is a reason DOT wont let air tanks be structural components, same with sanctioned racing, no air tanks in roll bars or bumpers. to much danger in having a structural part fail when otherwise it would not. its a novel ideal but IMO a bad idea and more work than its worth. you can get a 3-5gal tank for like $30 and that will be all the tank you would ever need.
I just leave the belt off until I need to use it, it's only 2 bolts which are right up front.
Yeah, it's a tight squeeze fitting under the hood and you have to deal with the oil somehow, but it's hard to beat the price or the output. But I do understand it's not the solution everyone is looking for...
snow junky
New member
I have a york long stroke 210 fed by crankshaft
Only oba comparable to a York would be a scuba tank or co2. The custom install is a pia but sure beats a $600 electric pump
I run air tools, fill air mattresses, feed camp fires. Best $40 I ever spent
Only oba comparable to a York would be a scuba tank or co2. The custom install is a pia but sure beats a $600 electric pump
I run air tools, fill air mattresses, feed camp fires. Best $40 I ever spent
Leave your belt on ki022. If you think that free wheeling belt is robbing any measurable horsepower I have some ocean front Kansas property for sale.:doh:
My York doesn't vibrate at all. It makes a whirring noise just from the air being compressed, but other than that and the lighted switch I don't even know it's on when running. I prefer the York, despite it's few shortcomings any day of the week. That's why it's in the rock crawler and the ARB compressor is in the 4Runner with it's lack of engine compartment room.
Regarding the manifold on the ARB twin, pressure is pressure and pressure is what engages an air locker. Volume has nothing to do with ARBs engaging. There's enough volume in the 5mm airline to engage one. For that matter, if you have a tank and don't let the compressor fill the tank and bring up the pressure in the system, the ARB won't fully engage either. That little manifold they sell is there to provide a place for mounting solenoids when running twin lockers, per an ARB tech guy who happens to be a friend of mine.
My York doesn't vibrate at all. It makes a whirring noise just from the air being compressed, but other than that and the lighted switch I don't even know it's on when running. I prefer the York, despite it's few shortcomings any day of the week. That's why it's in the rock crawler and the ARB compressor is in the 4Runner with it's lack of engine compartment room.
Regarding the manifold on the ARB twin, pressure is pressure and pressure is what engages an air locker. Volume has nothing to do with ARBs engaging. There's enough volume in the 5mm airline to engage one. For that matter, if you have a tank and don't let the compressor fill the tank and bring up the pressure in the system, the ARB won't fully engage either. That little manifold they sell is there to provide a place for mounting solenoids when running twin lockers, per an ARB tech guy who happens to be a friend of mine.
Last edited:
Nelsonmd
New member
That writeup is a great one, but I do have some concerns about the air flow around the compressor. They generate alot of heat, and if there isn't sufficient air flow, then that compressor won't last long before failing. On the other hand, if can figure out how to make the air from the cabin flow past the compressor and out the vent, then maybe you could setup up an excellent cooling situation and prolong the life of the compressor. I can't really visualize how the trim panel and and the other bit come together to either block or allow air flow, but that would be my concern with this method.
That said, if I had to install OBA tomorrow, this is how I'd do it; it is super clean and keeps the compressor on the inside which may be louder, but I think will prolong the life of the compressor way beyond having it exposed to the heat and salt of the engine compartment.
For now, I'll just have to stick with my $30 slime compressor that I hide under the rear seat.
That said, if I had to install OBA tomorrow, this is how I'd do it; it is super clean and keeps the compressor on the inside which may be louder, but I think will prolong the life of the compressor way beyond having it exposed to the heat and salt of the engine compartment.
For now, I'll just have to stick with my $30 slime compressor that I hide under the rear seat.
Bandit Runner
Senior Member
I have the big twin ARB compressor in my engine compartment. It works great!
I haven't had a chance to air up my tires with it yet, but it runs both my air lockers and fills air matresses and the kids bike tires no problem.
I haven't had a chance to air up my tires with it yet, but it runs both my air lockers and fills air matresses and the kids bike tires no problem.
lowlinkin
New member
So for you guys running the York 210's how did you mount it, meaning did you make your own brackets? I just picked up one and will be working on the brackets soon. I know there used to be a company that made a bracket to fit the 3.4 but they no longer do. I think the bracket to hold the compressor is going to be pretty straight forward but the belt tensioner is what has me stumped. If anyone has any diagrams or illustrations on how the brackets are made and go together it would make it easier than me trying to reinvent the wheel!:thumb:
Mgyver1
Member
If you've got the room this one seems pretty stout. I believe they market to construction companies. I think it's less than $1k, so cheaper than the Oasis, but also much bigger.
Home - 12-Voltair, 24-Voltair, Accessories
Home - 12-Voltair, 24-Voltair, Accessories
Wedgy
New member
This Masterflow 1050 unit puts out 2 CFM and is on sale super cheap for ~$50 shipped.
MasterFlow Tsunami MF-1050 12 Volt Portable Hi Volume Air Compressor MF1050 6784357701356 | eBay
MasterFlow Tsunami MF-1050 12 Volt Portable Hi Volume Air Compressor MF1050 6784357701356 | eBay
