One more Bilstein 5100 front lift, 0 rear lift question.

[Hugo Stiglitz]

Over the last 2 weeks I have read and searched every bilstein thread I can find.

I have not seen anyone post pre lift measurements of ground to top of wheel well in the FRONT and BACK of the 4Runner.



First Q, How much lift do you usually get on the front with the 1.75" slot?

My 16 TEP sits stock at 36.5" at the Rear, 34" at the Front (If I don't get more than 2" at the front it seems the 1.75 may work for me)

I have KDSS so I am trying to get this right the first time. I don't want to lift the rear, only the front in hopes of having a little bit of rake and close to level.



I know from reading 1.75 has put a lot of rigs here with a tad of negative rake, hence my question (about pre measurements of front and rear).... what actual lift is the 1.75" bilstein notch yielding?

And has anyone documented this particular lift (front only) with PRE front and rear measurements and then POST front and rear measurements?

It seems, if I go the 1.75, I should still have slight rake, maybe dead on level.



If anyone has documented the Pre and Post ground to fender well measurements and also documented what measurements the bilsteins have yielded afterward it would greatly help in my decision making.

There are many pics of end results of the lifts but few measurement pics of before and after. Sorry for long winded question but I was trying to explain my needs as best I could.

Thanks in advance everyone

 

[3wbdriver]

When I put in my initial 1.75 front 0 rear setup I ended up with 36 3/4" at the front and 36 3/4" at the rear fenders. But my frame had a slight (~1/4 - 1/2") reverse rake. So my setup with factory springs actually yielded 1.75" on each front corner.

The 0.85" setting is the one that actually still leaves you with a slight forward rake, and is considered leveled when unloaded.

 

[Hugo Stiglitz]

When I put in my initial 1.75 front 0 rear setup I ended up with 36 3/4" at the front and 36 3/4" at the rear fenders. But my frame had a slight (~1/4 - 1/2") reverse rake. So my setup with factory springs actually yielded 1.75" on each front corner.

The 0.85" setting is the one that actually still leaves you with a slight forward rake, and is considered leveled when unloaded.

Thanks for measurements! Do you know what your front measurements was prior to lift the front end?

 

[3wbdriver]

I didn't measure my actual vehicle before, but I did measure a Limited that was parked in the same hotel the weekend we got the SSO bumper installed. It pretty much matched what you posted above.

 

[BobsTrail]

No measurements but -- 0.85 and stock in the rear looks like this. 1.75 without a 1 inch spacer may look tail low with a load.

 

[mybabydaddy]

Over the last 2 weeks I have read and searched every bilstein thread I can find.

I have not seen anyone post pre lift measurements of ground to top of wheel well in the FRONT and BACK of the 4Runner.



First Q, How much lift do you usually get on the front with the 1.75" slot?

My 16 TEP sits stock at 36.5" at the Rear, 34" at the Front (If I don't get more than 2" at the front it seems the 1.75 may work for me)

I have KDSS so I am trying to get this right the first time. I don't want to lift the rear, only the front in hopes of having a little bit of rake and close to level.



I know from reading 1.75 has put a lot of rigs here with a tad of negative rake, hence my question (about pre measurements of front and rear).... what actual lift is the 1.75" bilstein notch yielding?

And has anyone documented this particular lift (front only) with PRE front and rear measurements and then POST front and rear measurements?

It seems, if I go the 1.75, I should still have slight rake, maybe dead on level.



If anyone has documented the Pre and Post ground to fender well measurements and also documented what measurements the bilsteins have yielded afterward it would greatly help in my decision making.

There are many pics of end results of the lifts but few measurement pics of before and after. Sorry for long winded question but I was trying to explain my needs as best I could.

Thanks in advance everyone

Sorry... I don’t think I ever posted this info... Probably should have. Here ya go:

2014 TEP w/ KDSS
Pre-Lift (measured using top of wheel wells)
DF - 34 inches
DR - just shy of 37 inches
PF - just shy of 34 inches
PR - 36 inches
...as you can see, I had a nice “KDSS Lean” going on, lol.

POST 5100 install with ONLY 1.75 Front setting (nothing in rear), measured using wheel wells):
DF - 36 inches
DR - just shy of 37 inches
PF - just over 35.5 inches
PR - 36 1/4 inches

POST 5100 install with ONLY 1.75 front setting (nothing in rear), MEASURED USING FRAME:
DF closest to tire = roughly 14.5 inches
DR closest to tire = just shy of 14.5 inches
PF closest to tire = 14 inches
PR closest to tire = 1/16 shy of 14 inches

REMEMBER - All trucks vary a little, and none truly “sit” the same pre or post lift.... but ROUGHLY you can expect the following with 1.75 setting up front and nothing added to the rear: about a 1/4 inch NEGATIVE frame rake front to back... But your wheel wells will look pretty much level (more or less).

This is NOT what I am currently running; I have since added 1 inch rear spacers to give me a hint of rake back (which I prefer/like)... plus, now the entire truck has a small lift (which I like as well).

Hope this helps.

 

[Hugo Stiglitz]

Wow guys, thanks! Already great info I needed. I thought I'd actually get flamed a tad, lol, but I've seriously searched and searched.

I plan on installing my bilsteins tomorrow morning. Hopefully all goes well. I will post back up.

Thanks again!

Sorry... I don’t think I ever posted this info... Probably should have. Here ya go:

2014 TEP w/ KDSS
Pre-Lift (measured using top of wheel wells)
DF - 34 inches
DR - just shy of 37 inches
PF - just shy of 34 inches
PR - 36 inches
...as you can see, I had a nice “KDSS Lean” going on, lol.

POST 5100 install with ONLY 1.75 Front setting (nothing in rear), measured using wheel wells):
DF - 36 inches
DR - just shy of 37 inches
PF - just over 35.5 inches
PR - 36 1/4 inches

POST 5100 install with ONLY 1.75 front setting (nothing in rear), MEASURED USING FRAME:
DF closest to tire = roughly 14.5 inches
DR closest to tire = just shy of 14.5 inches
PF closest to tire = 14 inches
PR closest to tire = 1/16 shy of 14 inches

REMEMBER - All trucks vary a little, and none truly “sit” the same pre or post lift.... but ROUGHLY you can expect the following with 1.75 setting up front and nothing added to the rear: about a 1/4 inch NEGATIVE frame rake front to back... But your wheel wells will look pretty much level (more or less).

This is NOT what I am currently running; I have since added 1 inch rear spacers to give me a hint of rake back (which I prefer/like)... plus, now the entire truck has a small lift (which I like as well).

Hope this helps.

 

[Hugo Stiglitz]

No measurements but -- 0.85 and stock in the rear looks like this. 1.75 without a 1 inch spacer may look tail low with a load.

This looks like what I am wanting to achieve.

Looks like the .85 will save me a lot of mental anguish (OCD) and staring at the 4R and convincing myself the 1/4" negative rake is a bad thing lol

 

[Hugo Stiglitz]

If anyone else info IRT my original post - please keep posting up.



I will return the favor of you guys helping me out by posting all PRE/POST measurements

Thanks again

 

[Hugo Stiglitz]

For the Record

My 2016 TEP

PRE Lift Measurements

DF - 34'
PF - 34 1/8"

DR - 36.5"
PR - 36 3/4"

 

[gbarr]

Hope you read this before you install 5100's.On my SR5 2014 I installed 5100's in the front set at the 1st notch up from stock which should have been a raise of .85 inches and the rears with no spacers. This setup actually raised the front exactly 1.25 inches and the rear remained the same as before.I know yours is a trail and mine was an SR5, so you could end up with some reverse rake which I think is a terrible look, you may be ok with this. I was really glad I did not ose the 1.5 notch. I know they all different but??????

 

[Hugo Stiglitz]

Hope you read this before you install 5100's.On my SR5 2014 I installed 5100's in the front set at the 1st notch up from stock which should have been a raise of .85 inches and the rears with no spacers. This setup actually raised the front exactly 1.25 inches and the rear remained the same as before.I know yours is a trail and mine was an SR5, so you could end up with some reverse rake which I think is a terrible look, you may be ok with this. I was really glad I did not ose the 1.5 notch. I know they all different but??????

I'm with you. Cannot stand negative rake. Even a little drives me insane. I have read a lot and it does seem the .85 gets a little over an inch. So I'm going to roll the dice and just do the .85 notch and hope she looks good.

I'm a good 2.5" difference now as she sits. That's why I've been trying to decide.

 

[TRDfan2011]

No measurements but -- 0.85 and stock in the rear looks like this. 1.75 without a 1 inch spacer may look tail low with a load.

Nice stance! That's the look I'm llooking for on my 2011 SR5.

 

[karmatp]

You will be happy with .85, which will give you 1" lift, maybe a tad more. That is what I did and it is perfect. 1.75 will give you reverse frame rack unloaded, loaded rear and it just looks silly.

If you go 1.75, you need to add a 1" rear spacer to not look odd driving down the road.

 

[Hugo Stiglitz]

You will be happy with .85, which will give you 1" lift, maybe a tad more. That is what I did and it is perfect. 1.75 will give you reverse frame rack unloaded, loaded rear and it just looks silly.

If you go 1.75, you need to add a 1" rear spacer to not look odd driving down the road.

Thanks for the input!

 

[3wbdriver]

You will be happy with .85, which will give you 1" lift, maybe a tad more. That is what I did and it is perfect. 1.75 will give you reverse frame rack unloaded, loaded rear and it just looks silly.

OPINION!!!! :moon:

 

[philsey]

You will be happy with .85, which will give you 1" lift, maybe a tad more. That is what I did and it is perfect. 1.75 will give you reverse frame rack unloaded, loaded rear and it just looks silly.

If you go 1.75, you need to add a 1" rear spacer to not look odd driving down the road.

Agree. While a very few like the 1.75 setting, the vast majority use .85. This leaves you with a slight forward rake, but fixes the more dramatic stock rake, which I did not like.

Remember, this is not a permanent setting. While you'd have to remove the shocks to change them, it CAN be done.

Don't forget to realign your headlights.

 

[philsey]

OPINION!!!! :moon:

Yum, turtle soup ...

:beer:

 

[jmarthsr]

I also went to .85 a couple years ago and have no complaint with my 2014 Trail premium. Has a slight rake that evens out when loaded up.

 

[Hugo Stiglitz]

As promised, Pics and measurements

I posted a similar post over at the thread that showed us "how to" do this KDSS stuff

My 4Runner is a 2016 TEP w/KDSS


This is the thread I am thanking

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-g...ation-kdss-equipped-vehicles.html#post1525561


Ok I knocked mine out this morning and......

Took 3.5 hours and thats with coffee, texting and just taking my time.

I almost feel bad..... One of the easiest mods I've ever done. I know I owe it to this thread though, I read it over a few times and the referenced thread and like always I came up with a game plan....Now sometimes my game plans turn to SH@! and fully expected this one too just because the KDSS was unknown territory for me.

I wanted to thanks the OP and all others who contributed. I just followed the steps as they are presented and it all went well, much better than expected.

Mounting the KDSS sway bar back literally took me 10 mins. before I jacked up the truck I did ratchet strap the KDSS piston at its current position.... after I installed the shocks etc and lowered the truck to the ground I literally did not have to move the passenger sway bar mount, it just went right back together, the drivers side took a little bit of manipulation but nothing like I had thought.

One thing I did that I did not see throughout the threads is I did not waste time pulling the spring out, just the shock, I used 2 zip ties through the damper rod hole and through the spring to hold it in place just until I fed the new shock back up, then cut the zip ties and finished feeding up the shock mated with the spring.

I also marked the spring (prob not necessary) but I did it anyway, I wanted it back in the same position as the factory placed it, thats me though.

I will post pics

I went with .85 on the bilsteins and got about 1.5" of lift and I think if I had went 1.75 Id be cussing at negative rake right now.

Ive already lifted plenty of toyotas, 6" to 10" etc, re-geared blah blah, I really want to keep this 4Runner close to stock but that rake was killing me.

Drove it about 50 miles, after about 200 more miles I will get it aligned

(And yes my 4Runner has been undercoated if you see that gunk everywhere)

It now sits just about perfect

Thanks again everyone!

Before and after measurements:

Before:
DF - 34
PF - 34 1/8

DR - 36.5
PR - 36 3/4


After:
DF - 35 3/4
PF - 35 5/8

DR - 37
PR - 36 3/4

BEFORE


AFTER
excuse my ghetto boards lol