Only KDSS w/lift need apply

It’s actually easy to do. I’m definitely going for a plug and play kit. I literally have to make one of the connectors. Which is what is going to cost me a lot to produce. I’m thinkn of 3D printing it first And then if these sell a lot I’ll go ahead and make a mold for the connector.


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This is interesting. So If I unplug the harness below the drivers door it will go in limp mode and allow free travel of the sway bar pistons with no resistance? So smoother on washboard? I like my KDSS for the last 195,000 miles, but am interested if this makes those few scenarios like washboard dirt smoother.
 
This is interesting. So If I unplug the harness below the drivers door it will go in limp mode and allow free travel of the sway bar pistons with no resistance? So smoother on washboard? I like my KDSS for the last 195,000 miles, but am interested if this makes those few scenarios like washboard dirt smoother.

Looking at getting a 2020 possibly with KDSS. Since you have quite a few miles on yours, I'm wondering how you experience the KDSS on washboards? I feel it's better on the road for sure, and great at slow articulation, but I will be driving a lot of washboard here in the southwest. This mod seems to be a great idea if there are such issues with washboards.
 
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FWIW - visually the plug looks like a 6189-1083 Sumitomo connector or a 6189-7100. Without seeing the inside female end - I can't tell much more than that visually or even if it's a match. But it looks a lot like it from the Sumitomo catalog. I wish I was more of an expert in auto connector identification. I'm sure if you sent a photo to Sumitomo they could probably tell if it's a match. Otherwise I think you'd have to buy one to check. If I were doing it - I'd probably start by just testing the wire that goes to the shutter valve(s). I believe that the two valves are the light green and pink wires. I think the three other wires are for the pressure sensors in each chamber.

What's an unknown for me is what information from the pressure sensors and/or the valve positions is sent back to the power management control ECU and how that interplays with the various other motion control functions. My guess is that the result of KDSS as an add-on item means that it isn't a core component of the VSC functions and wouldn't cause a problem unless the pressures go above the max or something like that. I think max pressure is 1,200psi according to the guide on bleeding the system. You bleed it at 1,000psi and then back off the pressure to around 400psi, but it has a warning about going above 1200.

I'm pretty confident you could then simply use a wireless relay PCB in a box down on the frame rail to operate it without any complex wiring need or a dash switch. It'll be less reliable than a wired Bosch style relay, but it's easy, cheap, and fast. Could pretty easily be a plug and play box you just slap on the frame rail and a wireless fob you put in your glove box.

In a perfect world we'd just re-write the code in the KDSS ECU.

Another option is to use a relay to interrupt the signal at the KDSS ECU to the relay that closes the shutter valves. But I don't know what wire that is and it's a little more tricky to identify. If someone wanted to go crazy and map all the ECU input/output signals then you could match up the functionality and have more information on how to go about modifying the signals under the dash instead of out at the frame rail.

Edit: after looking closer it's pin# 1 and 3 at the KDSS ECU that correspond to light green and ping wires at pins 5 and 6 at the KDSS valve. So you could just tap them under the dash with no need to wire anything down to the frame if you wanted to avoid it. But it's a bit more involved to gain access to the KDSS ECU than down on the frame.
 
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Lift with KDSS

Been thinking about jumping in on this but would like to find a shop to do the install. Does anyone have experience or recommendations with shops in Columbus Ohio?
 
I have been testing this switch for the past 5-6k miles now. It works perfect. I’m just waiting on the connectors to get in, relays and custom laser etched factory buttons for guys that don’t have a switch pros or similar. I have mine on a switch Pro. No I’m not going to tel you which wire(s) it is. I put it way to much work and testing to give it away. I’m sorry about that lol. But I need to eat and feed the fam. But I for sure am trying to keep it really affordable.

6415d20d653c17a9347e5543f01aa300.jpg


Watch this story by Dom R on Instagram before it disappears.
 
I have been testing this switch for the past 5-6k miles now. It works perfect. I’m just waiting on the connectors to get in, relays and custom laser etched factory buttons for guys that don’t have a switch pros or similar. I have mine on a switch Pro. No I’m not going to tel you which wire(s) it is. I put it way to much work and testing to give it away. I’m sorry about that lol. But I need to eat and feed the fam. But I for sure am trying to keep it really affordable.

6415d20d653c17a9347e5543f01aa300.jpg


Watch this story by Dom R on Instagram before it disappears.


add me to the list for an order!!
 
Looking at getting a 2020 possibly with KDSS. Since you have quite a few miles on yours, I'm wondering how you experience the KDSS on washboards? I feel it's better on the road for sure, and great at slow articulation, but I will be driving a lot of washboard here in the southwest. This mod seems to be a great idea if there are issues with such an issue.

I only have memories to compare it with really. Washboards are not smooth and not sure if they are worse on vehicles without KDSS. I rented a sequoia last year and did some significant driving on washboard dirt in Montana and also some in a Taho in AZ. The only thing that comes to mind as a difference is maybe less side to side drift / better control? with the KDSS, but the roughness is still there.

Right way to deal would be to air down I guess.
 
Hint: it's the light green and pink wires. Pink is the shutter valve for the upper chamber, Light Green is the lower chamber shutter valve.

eO9N4JoBSiuKWqaawqo3e-JwM8GuOzWSFwZTqxB7Nc8QGhfqrVR1lF9JLbXqloBMUCufVMpX4TTq5AIxvJMWMxGr912eoUvKsCbGJepLKN8


What's missing in Chillfancy's original wiring bypass is that what you would do to make the dash light also go away is add the correct resistor circuit so that the ECU doesn't detect an open circuit when it expects to close the shutter valves. The bypass relay to defeat KDSS shutter valves should not open the circuit, but rather connect it to a resistor. I don't know what value is correct for this resistor without reading through the FSM.
 
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[MENTION=433255]dom42[/MENTION] Just looked on the website and currently says sold out. Is the email list full?

Thanks


Email list should be good.

Dang I just asked my partner and we are completely out now. New batch should actually be done in about 2 weeks.


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Hint: it's the light green and pink wires. Pink is the shutter valve for the upper chamber, Light Green is the lower chamber shutter valve.

eO9N4JoBSiuKWqaawqo3e-JwM8GuOzWSFwZTqxB7Nc8QGhfqrVR1lF9JLbXqloBMUCufVMpX4TTq5AIxvJMWMxGr912eoUvKsCbGJepLKN8


What's missing in Chillfancy's original wiring bypass is that what you would do to make the dash light also go away is add the correct resistor circuit so that the ECU doesn't detect an open circuit when it expects to close the shutter valves. The bypass relay to defeat KDSS shutter valves should not open the circuit, but rather connect it to a resistor. I don't know what value is correct for this resistor without reading through the FSM.


It’s actually even easier then that. But I made the harness very hard to to try figure it out lol. You have to destroy the harness to see it.


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It’s actually even easier then that. But I made the harness very hard to to try figure it out lol. You have to destroy the harness to see it.


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