I ordered the Opti-Coat 2.0 for my Super White 2014 Trail. My understanding is that the Toyota Super White paint is a single stage paint (no clear coat) that is more prone to oxidize than the two stage base coat/clear coat paint. I have seen some late model Super White Tundras that have some oxidation on the paint so that had me concerned. That is one of the main reasons I am going to opti-coat it. I am not looking forward to the job, but I hope it is worth it and it never has to be done again as they claim.
Opti-Coated The Runner!
- Thread starter Whiplash Willy
- Start date
The Waco Kid
New member
Could you report back once you've done it...perhaps with a "How-to" thread? At the very least, a few pics and some tips/what not to do's? I know that's asking a lot, but it would be an awesome addition to this forum! :biggrin2:
For now, this might be a good read. It's not a white vehicle nor a 4Runner, but application should be the same. Comprehensive Opti-Coat 2.0 Application Guide - Autopia Forums - Auto Detailing & Car Care Discussion Forum
There's a lot of opti coat info on the detailing forums (another place to spend hours and $$$). I've been meaning to get the detailing supplies (machine, polish, compound, LSP including opticoat, etc.) since the summer, but I've been lazy. It's almost winter, if I don't get it soon I'll have to wait until spring...
There's a lot of opti coat info on the detailing forums (another place to spend hours and $$$). I've been meaning to get the detailing supplies (machine, polish, compound, LSP including opticoat, etc.) since the summer, but I've been lazy. It's almost winter, if I don't get it soon I'll have to wait until spring...
The Waco Kid
New member
Hopefully a new runner wouldn't need near as much TLC as the 911 in that photo did. I'm not near as comfortable with an abrasive polisher as I am with a clay bar and waxing. May need a professional if it comes to that.
You'd be surprised at some of the hack jobs that some dealer prep guys do. Especially with darker cars like black. Once the glazing and fillers are washed away you'll see what kind of job they do.
For those who are interested and wanting to learn some more check out some of these videos. Junkman's, The Mother of All "How to Fix Your Paint for Novices" Thread! - Auto Geek Online Auto Detailing Forum
As for what I've read so far about using opticoat (or any long lasting coating), everything is pointing to a "proper prep". This is simplified, but for example, removing contaminants (wash and clay bar the vehicle), polish/compound to remove scratches and swirls (to the extent of keeping enough of the clear coat and not burning through it). Then removing the excess oils (using an IPA solution) from the polish/compound or from whatever else touched the paint.
If the opticoat isn't applied properly (meaning the prep work leading up to the application of opticoat), the coating will not adhere properly and it'll just be a waste of time and $$$. This is probably in the link with black 911, but I'm just rehashing some stuff that I remember.
Just an FYI, Harbor Freight does have a machine polisher "clone" similar to the Porter Cable 7424 (which is a great novice machine based on many recommendations). Harbor Freight also has a 25% coupon which should work making the machine even cheaper.
Then there are some people who don't worry about their paint and wheel it just to have the "battle scars." This post is not for them. :blah:
Whiplash Willy
New member
For preping for Opticoat, I would recommending using Carpro's Iron-X before claying. It will remove any Iron particles, and make claying that much easier.
Paul just texted me this 50/50 before/after shot he took of a black Tesla sedan he is working on. Amazingly enough, the Tesla's paint got that bad just from machine car washes!
It is really amazing how proper paint correction can fix a paint job!
Even if you can't get every defect out before Opti-Coating your vehicle, I still think it is worth it. Sure you will always see those defects, but the Opti-Coat will cover any exposed paint areas, so you don't get rust, as well as protect the other areas. Plus, washing an opti-coated/guarded vehicle is much easier. Obviously you want to get all of the swirls out, but some permanently coated scratches wouldn't be too bad.
Paul just texted me this 50/50 before/after shot he took of a black Tesla sedan he is working on. Amazingly enough, the Tesla's paint got that bad just from machine car washes!
It is really amazing how proper paint correction can fix a paint job!
Even if you can't get every defect out before Opti-Coating your vehicle, I still think it is worth it. Sure you will always see those defects, but the Opti-Coat will cover any exposed paint areas, so you don't get rust, as well as protect the other areas. Plus, washing an opti-coated/guarded vehicle is much easier. Obviously you want to get all of the swirls out, but some permanently coated scratches wouldn't be too bad.
Wow. There was a ton of good information in this thread. Thanks. I always do a lot of research before doing or buying anything, so I knew the prep work was vital. Mine is new and it is white so I hope it does not take lot of extra work.
As far as me providing a "how to" thread, I think there are other folks much more qualified than me to do that. I never want to give out bad information, so I prefer to let more qualified folks do that.
By the way, can I buy the Iron-X locally anywhere?
As far as me providing a "how to" thread, I think there are other folks much more qualified than me to do that. I never want to give out bad information, so I prefer to let more qualified folks do that.
By the way, can I buy the Iron-X locally anywhere?
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Whiplash Willy
New member
I don't think you can find it anywhere locally, but most of the good stuff you can only get online anyways.
Iron X Iron Remover, CQuartz IronX, Paint Cleaner, paint decontamination
Here is a good article on Iron-x and Tar-x (Tar-x is for organic compounds, and Iron-x is just for iron) Using both of them together, you could probley skip claying all together, but to be safe, it wouldn't be a bad idea to do all three. I have never used tar-x personally, but I have heard good things about it.
Review: CarPro Iron X - Auto Geek Online Auto Detailing Forum
Not sure if they have local shops near you in Texas, but there are a few places online.
CarPro USA (US seller of Carpro products) Florida Based
We Are Car Care -- Car Wax, Car Polish, Auto Detailing Supplies, Car Buffers & Car Accessories Store (as Whiplash Willy mentioned above) Florida Based
- Detailers Club (Need to be a member, like a Costco or Sams Club of the detailing world. Better pricing, but need to factor in the membership cost as well as buying more than one item to get your savings worth) Pittsburgh, PA based
https://www.autoality.com/store/pc/home.asp (Non-members version of the link above. Owned by the same company as the above link) Pittsburgh, PA based
There are many others out there. These are a couple companies that I have found through my search that have a variety of products, as well as above average customer satisfaction. These will be the companies I purchase from.
Thanks.
Whiplash Willy
New member
Here is another reason Opti-Coat/Opti-Guard is an amazing product. My Dad had Paul Opti-Guard his 2012 Subaru Legacy. A few weeks ago it got a "hit and run" in the parking lot on the Front Driver Fender. It looked really bad, and I was sure it would need a repaint....
This pic doesn't show the dent well, but shows the scuff/scratch:
We took it to Paul for advice, and he was able to completely polish it out on the spot, without compromising the Opti-Coat! Even if it did, Opti-coat could have been removed from the panel and re-applied.
So basically a major scratch like that didn't even touch the factory clear and was easily removed, without needing a repaint!
My dad will be doing a paintless dent repair on it, and completely avoided haveing to take it to a body shop for a new fender and respray!
This pic doesn't show the dent well, but shows the scuff/scratch:
We took it to Paul for advice, and he was able to completely polish it out on the spot, without compromising the Opti-Coat! Even if it did, Opti-coat could have been removed from the panel and re-applied.
So basically a major scratch like that didn't even touch the factory clear and was easily removed, without needing a repaint!
My dad will be doing a paintless dent repair on it, and completely avoided haveing to take it to a body shop for a new fender and respray!
4RunnerStunner
New member
This last weekend I got my 4Runner Detailed and Opti-Coated (Pro Version).
I usually try to do all work on my cars myself (Detailing and maintenance) because I am super-anal and don't trust anyone to touch my cars.
After Opti-Coating (2.0 Consumer Version) my 2012 Golf, I decided I would never own another vehicle that isn't Opti-Coated, especially with how weak todays paints are.
For those unfamiliar with the opti coat, it is a self leveling, hand applied, 2ml thick permanent clear coat, that is applied over the factory clear. It is much harder and more resilient then the factory clear, and resists scratches, rock chips, and paint contaminants. It is one of those products that sounds too good to be true, except for it is true! This stuff is amazing and not only does it protect your paint, but makes it easier to maintain. After 1.5 years of having it on my Golf, it still looked and functioned the same as the day I applied it. I also had No Swirls or scratches anywhere on my paint!
This is a pretty big job, and I didn't have the time to do it myself, but luckily I found an amazing detailer who is a perfectionist, whose passion is detailing, and takes pride in his work. After talking to him for over an hour, I knew he was someone I could trust my new 4Runner with, and that he would do the job right. It also helped knowing he frequently works on Ferrari's, Maserati's, and Bentleys.
My paint looked pretty good already, as it is about 2 months old, except for the few minor dealer installed scratches. Now those are all gone, and my paint looks better then I could have ever imagined! He went all out on my 4nr, above and beyond what we had even talked about! In addition to the normal stuff, he even coated my door jams, and removed my wheels to clean and coat even the insides and outsides! He also did the headlights, mirror turn signals, and tail lights, so they would not cloud and turn yellow as most plastic headlights will do. It is nice to know that my paint is protected, and that I will never have to wax it. It will look like it does now for years down the road!
These pictures I have of it don't do it justice!
Wheel Removed to Clean, Polish, Coat. Also notice he removed the screws on the inner fender lip so he could get those coated as well.
Wheel coated on the inside and outside. Now it will resist brake dust and be much easier to clean!
Paul from Attention 2 Detail NW did an amazing job! Much better then what I could have ever done myself. He seriously knows his stuff, and uses all of the best tools & products! He is a great guy! I wouldn't trust anyone else to detail my car. If anyone in the area (Vancouver Wa) needs detail work done, you should check him out!
Nothing but the best in automotive detailing, servicing Vancouver, WA, Portland, OR, and the greater metro areas.
Thanks for the heads up! I did not know they were so close to me. May have to pay Paul a visit in the future!
T4Ranger
New member
IF you have the free time and are OCD like me, you can easily do the paint correction yourself with a few types of compound and a random orbital, finish the paint correction to your satisfaction, and apply the opticoat yourself. It's pretty easy. I bought more than enough at auto geek for well under what any place charges to put it on, and it goes on easier than wax.
Whiplash Willy
New member
Cool, whatever work you have him do, you won't be disappointed!
I got mine done professionally, but I now swear by opti-coat!
Yea, now that I have had it on 2 of my vehicles, I won't own another one without it! It makes it so much easier to wash and maintain, and protects well too. Now all I worry about is water spots, which are pretty much unavoidable, but they can be chemically removed from the coating without harming the coating's integrety. Apparently water spots will just "Stain" the Opti-Coat, but just at the surface, where as waterspots on your clear coat can etch your clearcoat beneath the surface and require polishing to remove.
Instead of clay/compound, polish, and waxing 1-2 times a year with your standard clear, all the maintenance you need is a light clay, and possibly light finishing polish every year.
Yea, I did myself the first time, and I did it under $100, but it took me about 3 days of my vacation to do. That was before I had 3 kids though
Why do you say that, atleast give a reason or two. Maybe they applied it incorrectly, or you didn't fully understand what you were getting. Most people who have Opti-Coat love it.
It was done by a long standing and credible detail shop so I don't question their install skills.
What I do question is that you still get swirls. Water doesn't bead like on a freshly waxed car. It doesn't make the paint impervious to anything. If you polish at some point it goes away. This so called perma seal isn't really permanent.
I feel it's mostly placebo. Again, I spent $600 to get it done on a sports sedan. They actually don't recommend doing it on black cars because people come away disappointed. Swirl city just like on normal paint.
This tech isn't ready for prime time. Don't mean to rain on your parade but just giving people another opinion.
I won't be spending my money on the coating until they truly make it swirl free for life of black car.
What I do question is that you still get swirls. Water doesn't bead like on a freshly waxed car. It doesn't make the paint impervious to anything. If you polish at some point it goes away. This so called perma seal isn't really permanent.
I feel it's mostly placebo. Again, I spent $600 to get it done on a sports sedan. They actually don't recommend doing it on black cars because people come away disappointed. Swirl city just like on normal paint.
This tech isn't ready for prime time. Don't mean to rain on your parade but just giving people another opinion.
I won't be spending my money on the coating until they truly make it swirl free for life of black car.
T4Ranger
New member
1st, You will still get swirls with anything abrasive that touches your paint, i.e. an automatic carwash, towels, chamois, sponges, etc.
2nd, wax and sealants are 2 different things. opticoat sheds water and is not supposed to bead like a wax, water is expelled i.e. this video, notice how it find the path of least resistance.
Drying s2000 car with water and opti coat 2.0 - YouTube
3rd, opti-coat does make the clearcoat impervious to several things, ie. road tar wipes right off, bird shit wipes right off, tree sap wipes right off (the main reason I opti-coated in the first place). Shit and sap would eat right through your clear coat if you left it on for more than 24hours.
4th, if you polish with a polishing compound after the opticoat is applied, again it will eventually remove the layer of sealant. That is why you do paint correction / polish prior to applying the opticoat. There shouldn't be any need to polish it afterwards.
I think your expectations of a maintenance free solution are through the roof. Who is "they" that doesn't recommend it on black cars?? If you were disappointed with the results, then you should question your shop's ability to do a proper paint correction. I have 2 black cars that I did paint correction and opticoated myself, and I don't have swirls because I also give them a proper hand wash and don't run it through an automatic car wash or let some car wash monkey use shitty towels when drying it, which also can add swirl marks.
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Whiplash Willy
New member
Your installer may have not removed all of the swirls prior to the coating, essentially locking them in, or you are very abusive to your finish. How do you wash your car, and how often? This stuff isn't a force-field, but it does add a 2ml thick hard clearcoat to your car, that doesn't scratch as easily as the factory clear, especially todays clears.
After 7 months of daily driving, my opticoat is still scratch and swirl free. All I do is hand wash it once a week, or sometimes once every 2 weeks, and it still looks as good as the day it was applied, with the exception of water spots, which are pretty much unavoidable in Oregon, unless you dry it every time it rains. Water still beads like crazy. Washing is effortless, and I love how easy bird poop, tar, and ect comes off. I have even used wet paper towels to remove bird poop (in a pinch) and it came off effortlessly, and didn't leave any scratch or mark.
I still stand by my original statement that your installer either didn't install it properly, or you just didn't understand what you were getting. It should bead like crazy on flat surfaces when it is clean, if not you either have some contaminant on there or the coating isn't there. You still have to take care of your finish, it is just a lot easier to take care of. And if you are hard on your finish and get swirls, atleast you are polishing them out of your Opti-coat, which can be easily re-applied, as opposed to your factory clear, which can't.
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