Outer tie rod

[Myrunr2010]

So in the process of replacing my LBJ's I managed to mangle one of the rubber boots on the outer tie rod. Decided no sense in doing just one, should just go ahead and do both. It took a considerable amount of effort but I managed to get the passengers side off. While trying to remove the drivers side I rounded off the lock nut.....

I tried to apply heat to it, enough to get it hot without melting the boot. Didn't get much there. So I had the thought of, "well, I'll just cut it off and drill it out..."

So right now it's cut off right where the threads end. I've drill a hole all the way through it, sprayed some pb blaster down through the hole onto the backside, but now I'm having second thoughts about my next move and figured I'd try to get other ideas. My two thoughts are...

1) get a tap that will cut left handed threads, run a bolt down on it and apply torque until she pops loose.

2) go buy a larger drill bit (I don't have a big enough metal bit) and drill it out some more. I think the hole I've got in it now is like 3/8, I've got a second smaller hole going down beside it though, so that concerns me about tapping it.

Open to suggestions. And yes, I know, I should have just gone and bought a 26 and 27mm wrench, so no need to suggest it.

 

[Myrunr2010]

...Sooo, no suggestions?

 

[Predatorhouse]

Since you have to replace it anyway use a cut off disk on a grinder. Then hit the LBJ with a big hammer to knock it loose

 

[Predatorhouse]

I mean cut it off below the nut

 

[Myrunr2010]

Since you have to replace it anyway use a cut off disk on a grinder. Then hit the LBJ with a big hammer to knock it loose

I managed to get it to separate from the ball joint, I couldn't get it to separate from the inner tie rod. I cut the outer tie rod right before the lock-nut going to the inner tie rod.

I managed to get it though. Drilled it out with a 1/2" drill bit and then used a screw extractor. Had to use my cheater bar and put a significant amount of torque on it before it finally broke loose. Ill post a picture of it when I get home.

 

[JBurt]

Wow. I would have just replaced the inner too. Good job though

 

[Myrunr2010]

Wow. I would have just replaced the inner too. Good job though

well, i wouldn't have been replacing the outer tie rod if i hadn't messed it up while replacing the LBJ. So adding the inner to the equation after already unexpectedly replacing the outer's wasn't an option. The maintenance cost have been adding up lately, had to figure a way to get it out

:redbrick::redbrick::redbrick:

 

[Myrunr2010]

as promised.....

 

[poleclimber63]

I did the OTRE's and LBJ's 2 weekends ago....Good, looks like you got it out! I know what you said about the ITRE's...but you have to get an alignment now you've removed the OTRE..... Before you put it back together, did you check the inner? Quick check is to push the inner up level (before replacing the OTRE) and if it will hold position, its basically ok. If it flopped down, you need to replace it. I know, I know, more money.... The thing is, when you take it in for an alignment ($100 for us here up North) and if the ITRE is worn, they will have a problem aligning it. Then you'll have to do it anyways and return it and pay twice, or or pay the shop$$$... If you decide to not align it, you run the risk of eating your $$$$$tires$$$$$....

Just my 2cents... luckily, none of this work is too hard on this truck.

 

[Myrunr2010]

I did the OTRE's and LBJ's 2 weekends ago....Good, looks like you got it out! I know what you said about the ITRE's...but you have to get an alignment now you've removed the OTRE..... Before you put it back together, did you check the inner? Quick check is to push the inner up level (before replacing the OTRE) and if it will hold position, its basically ok. If it flopped down, you need to replace it. I know, I know, more money.... The thing is, when you take it in for an alignment ($100 for us here up North) and if the ITRE is worn, they will have a problem aligning it. Then you'll have to do it anyways and return it and pay twice, or or pay the shop$$$... If you decide to not align it, you run the risk of eating your $$$$$tires$$$$$....

Just my 2cents... luckily, none of this work is too hard on this truck.

Well, I thought I checked the inner. I moved them around pulled/pushed on it to see if I could feel any play. Didn't feel any so I assumed they were good. Guess not though, because they definitely both just flopped down when I let go of them. I'm planning to do a lift in the next year or so, so I'm planning to do a lifetime alignment deal.

 

[Myrunr2010]

What are the consequences of not having replaced them? Other than alignments may be difficult, is there any other concern?

 

[Predatorhouse]

when all the grease is gone they will heat up fast and break. I dont know if you know what it looks like in there, its kind of like your sholder's rotator cuff ( ball in a cup) with a little rod comming out for articulation and that is where it will break.

 

[Myrunr2010]

How common is that though is I guess what I was really getting at? That joint probably see's a pretty fair amount of movement but it really shouldn't see a whole lot of force I wouldn't think. And I guess if it breaks you lose sterring in the one wheel?

Where abouts in Va Beach are ya Predator? I'm over in Hampton.

 

[KidVermicious]

as promised.....

That's one way to do it. I think I would have drilled a hole sideways through the threads and used a screwdriver or something to twist it off.

You got it though, that's what counts.

 

[Myrunr2010]

That's one way to do it. I think I would have drilled a hole sideways through the threads and used a screwdriver or something to twist it off.

You got it though, that's what counts.

I considered doing something like that, but I figured it would be a balancing act of drilling a hole big enough to feed something through that wouldn't bend, and having enough thread material to not break.

I did put a 13mm wrench around the ball joint and put a cheater bar on it to try to get it break loose before I cut it off and I ended up bending my wrench 90 degrees without it budging at all.

 

[poleclimber63]

What are the consequences of not having replaced them? Other than alignments may be difficult, is there any other concern?

Well, it would have to be pretty bad to totally fail. However, driveability would be terribly affected before then. The steering will become imprecise and it will "wander". It would get to a point where it would be impossible to align, I would think--- I would be more concerned with steering/safety, wearing out tires and causing wear on other steering components.

 

[Myrunr2010]

Well, it would have to be pretty bad to totally fail. However, driveability would be terribly affected before then. The steering will become imprecise and it will "wander". It would get to a point where it would be impossible to align, I would think--- I would be more concerned with steering/safety, wearing out tires and causing wear on other steering components.

ok cool, so sounds like i will get some indications before it catestrophically fails. im planning a lift within the next year and will likely go ahead and replace them then. I didn’t want to spend the extra money right now and will have to get another alignment when I do the lift anyways.

 

[Nelsonmd]

I would say check the ITRE for ANY play, and if it has even the slightest inkling of play, then replace it. you shoudl also check to see if there is any sign that the ITRE has bottomed out (See my steering rack thread for apic of this... ) and if it has, replace it.

I wouldn't really count on you having some warning before the ITRE fails and you lose steering. I think it's more of a catastrophic failure without warning. If the ball wears out before the stem breaks, then you might have some -kind-of- warning, but that would just be a coincidence..

 

[Predatorhouse]

Im in Va Beach buy town center, off independence going toword the bay.(toword) yep Im a country boy.

 

[Myrunr2010]

I would say check the ITRE for ANY play, and if it has even the slightest inkling of play, then replace it. you shoudl also check to see if there is any sign that the ITRE has bottomed out (See my steering rack thread for apic of this... ) and if it has, replace it.

I wouldn't really count on you having some warning before the ITRE fails and you lose steering. I think it's more of a catastrophic failure without warning. If the ball wears out before the stem breaks, then you might have some -kind-of- warning, but that would just be a coincidence..

im fairly certain that the ones on there are the originals, given the amount of rust and whatnot on the OTRE, i can't imagine the inners were replaced without the outers.

what are the signs and symptoms of a failing PS rack? what was the cost to replace everything that you needed on it?

I got my 4runner probably....6 months ago? Slowly finding things wrong with it that need to be replaced or fixed. Especially considering that the majority of the things i've dealt with have been original parts, im assuming that anything i haven't replaced is likely to go at some point in the near future. Shes got 235k on it. It had a pretty steady amount of rust protection being put down for a while (i.e. leaky valve cover gaskets).